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(Unofficial) Replicator XL V1.5

by drandolph, published

(Unofficial) Replicator XL V1.5 by drandolph Nov 23, 2012

Description

This is a bunch of improvements of the RepXL rolled into one build plate. Read the instruction for what was change and added.

I just made a ton of changes and additions to the file on 11/25/12. Read about the changes in the instructions section.

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Any idea where i get plastic parts to print ?
Thanks for the quick response! I feared that stability was the limiting factor in stretching the Z-axis. I think im just going to stick with your design and bottleworks 11"x6" heated build plate, Im trying to get more use out of my machine instead of upgrading to the new Replicator.
The threaded rod is part of the Z-Axis motor so if you got that one then you would a new coupler and a new motor as well. Also since the rods are 8mm they will be flimsy going much longer and introducing rattling in the Z axis. You could change the rails to 12mm but then you have to change the arms and holders to match so it would be a lot. This design works with the original Z-Motor and still gives you the full height.

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Instructions

This is a derivative of thingiverse.com/thing:33265 John has an amazing idea and I just love it so if you're going to make one why not add in some improvements? Here are my build photos.
flickr.com/photos/daverandolph/sets/72157632079826074/

There are a few changes that I made. So refer to the original projects for build notes. This one file has ever laser cut piece for building a Replicator XL so you don't have to recycle parts and worry about which version you got and if yours will line up. It's also nice to be able to paint all your parts and still have your printer running while you wait on it to dry. Below you will find a list of ever change I made and everything I added to the project. Basically it’s a one stop shop.

1. On the back plate the cut out for the scrubber or meter port was missing so i added it back in. The slots for the Z end stop don't have enough range for the new position so I changed the holes to slots and moved them up giving a full 3/4" of range for adjustment.

2. On the front plate I added holes to mount the acrylic doors from thingiverse.com/thing:33269 I also added holes for a stop plate for the door at the bottom. I also included the stop plate to cut. I added holes and made a latch for the top to hold the doors shut. The latch slides up and down.

3. On the inside plate I took out the corners and made a little 1/2 cable pass through. This is to move air over the motherboard and not take air in from the build chamber. I also added back in cable clip holes that were missing from the original file. I moved the motherboard mounting holes so that they will line up with the power/reset/usb ports.

4. I made no changes to the left side and the top panel.

5. On the right side I added an intake port based on the idea from: thingiverse.com/thing:33779 this way its built in and ready to go. garyacrowellsr suggested I make mounting holes for this thingiverse.com/thing:34785 to help keep tension on the Y motor.

6. The bottom cover plate has a notch cut out to move air away from the motherboard. It also had the other corners filled in to make a more direct air flow.

7. The partition plate on the bottom is from: thingiverse.com/thing:24066 which will allow you to mount a second 40mm fan. So I just have two 12V fans in series to cool the motherboard.

8. I've included my remake of the HBP in the build: thingiverse.com/thing:35059 this will help reduce the sag in your HBP and I changed the rear plate to look more Replicator2ish.

9. I put in all the adaptors for holding the rod’s in the Replicator.


My build is done and printing now!
Here are some of my notes for others building this.

1. I did have to extend some wires. For me I extended the heaters and fans for the extruders and the stepper motor for the Y-Axis. I extended them by about 4" each. It wasn't to bad and all of my extensions are underneath so you don't see any splices in the build chamber. Solder them don't just tape them! I highly recommend some shrink tubing.

2. You will be tempted to over tighten the bolts, don't or the wood will pull the square bolts in to tight and you will damage your frame.

3. Check out these vertical rod supports. thingiverse.com/thing:35013 I think they are better and look better than the wood ones used.

4. You don't have to disassemble the extruders electronics to take it apart. Take out the Y-axis rods and motors and belts and lift the whole extruder and X-axis assemble out. Pull off the sides and unscrew the limit switches and unplug the lights from the motherboard. This way you won't have to remove very many wires when you take it apart. It's a lot easier than trying to remember what went where.

5. If you do detach a wire, label it.

6. Leave your Y motor loose and make it the last thing you tighten up since it needs to be pulled tight against the belt.

7. The Z end stop was barely long enough to reach to the new height. I suggest bringing it up the rear right behind the Y motor but bring up the Y-Limit switch up the rear left. This will give you a good 2 additional inches.

8. Be sure to change the start and end g-code files located in ReplicatorG/replicatorg-0039/machines/replicator. There is a start and end file for either Dual_Head of Single_Head. Change the end code to G0 Z250 (from 150) and in the start code change the G1 to Z250 (from 150)

9. Also be sure to edit ReplicatorG/replicatorg-0039/machines/replicator.xml and search for id="z" length="150" and change that to 250. It will appear twice in there. This will change the build volume in ReplicatorG for you.

10. I talked with JohnA (The guy who made the original design) tonight and he told me why my Z-Axis wasn't going all the way down. ReplicatorG seems to have the Z-Axis hard coded in version 040 but as soon as I did the modifications to version 039 of ReplicatorG it all works beautifully.

11. I found with my HBP modification that if you use the 1" thick supports you have to set the z axis to 245 but with the 3/4" version you can do the full 250. I personally will stick with the 1" version and loose 5mm to give my bed more support.
Any idea where i get plastic parts to print ?
Hello .. I'm from Brazil, I wonder if you have a list of materials needed to assemble the printer, here is very expensive, so I'm going to buy a few at ebay, I'll have them cut wooden parts ...... thank you (sorry google translator)
how do you get the scale of this sent the file to get it cut and got asked to put the measurements on. would be great to find out how big the sheet is. can someone please help.
The scale is 1 unit = 1 inch for the drawing.
is a unit a pixel
I'm assembling mine bit by bit. Looking great so far. I was wondering if you ended up getting your aluminum build plate arms? thingiverse.com/thing:39322
grr! i was all set to do this, took the proper laser class at the local tech shop, only to find that the laser cutter's bed is only 24 by 18 (seems the largest board is 19 by 19).

I'm trying to learn how to edit this thing, but was there any important reason to choose that height, and is there anything i need to worry about if i shave an inch off?
shouldn't be a problem just edit the printing perimeters accordingly. and knock an inch off the 8mm round bar.
What program did you use to create and edit this? my Autodesk inventor keeps choking when i try to load (admittedly, i dont really know what i am doing though)
All the width's and depths are makerbot standards so you don't want to mess with those but you could choose any height you want up to the height in the drawings. You can't go any higher because of the z-motor. You can't go any lower than the original because of the z motor.
Hey Drandolph I love your modifications, I was wondering if you know if its possible to swap out the threaded rod on the z-axis to the one linked below? After seeing the z18 I want to try to extend my z-axis and have a modified version of your parts cut out of aluminum. cncshop.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&;products_id=112
The threaded rod is part of the Z-Axis motor so if you got that one then you would a new coupler and a new motor as well. Also since the rods are 8mm they will be flimsy going much longer and introducing rattling in the Z axis. You could change the rails to 12mm but then you have to change the arms and holders to match so it would be a lot. This design works with the original Z-Motor and still gives you the full height.
Thanks for the quick response! I feared that stability was the limiting factor in stretching the Z-axis. I think im just going to stick with your design and bottleworks 11"x6" heated build plate, Im trying to get more use out of my machine instead of upgrading to the new Replicator.
Ohnyah and what is the thickness of the wood and type as well as the acrylic thickness, thanks
Ive downloaded these plans. I have an uncle who is going to cut them for me. How do I figure out the right sizenof the scale. Im sorry but im somewhat new to cad, thanks and I cant wait to start building the replicator al 1.5. It looks sweet.
it's 1 unit = 1inch. 5mm thick wood and 3mm acrylic for a hood.
Honestly, the XL upgrade stuff looks awesome but for those of us who are more software oriented than hardware..it seems like it could be daunting.

I'm tempted to hold out until these are available in some metal form, and then combine the work with upgrades to extruders and system fan. I haven't been a fan of the wood and I think the replicator chassis/upgrade options are well understood/mostly mature at this point that preserving the flexibility of wood for later mods might not be worthwhile.
A big part of it is cost. For about $125 you can get the rods and all the parts cut and shipped. Laser cutting wood is cheap and widespread. You can also laser cut acrylic the same way but it cracks so it's no a good idea. Getting a solid metal version custom cut could easily top $1k and not be any easier than the wood to assemble. The metal version would be the Replicator2. Some of the other guys are starting to mass produce metal frames for other reprap printers but the cost only works on a larger scale of production. People that might find it daunting may not want to try this because while it's not overly complicated to do, you will have to go slow and it will take a lot of time.Thankfully you do not have to drill or permanently modify any existing parts to put this together so you can go back. Unless you paint it like mine. It's hard to un-paint wood.
As for rep2, the initial release was just PLA and I'm happy to stick with ABS...I like the open source rep1 platform...I know makerbot is releasing the 2X soon which is metal and also ABS, but I'm not sure how much of an improvement it will be over the rep1 and I probably still need to get a few more years of use out of the rep1 to have justified the initial expense....a few hundred dollars of upgrades each year is easy to budget, $3K for upgrade to 2X would be ouch.
Anyone know how to set the machine size for Makerware software, I can find machine xml for replicatorg but not Makerwaer. Thanks 
Cool stuff you're doing here homie. I love it.
Hi Dave, got a box yesterday with a bunch of cool stuff!  Thanks!  I've got everything now for the XL upgrade but it might be a few weeks before I start, 'cause I'm still laid up a bit.  

Suggestion to this thing, I'd add the holes necessary to use http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34785  It's labeled as for the Utilimaker, but it looks like it will work perfectly for the Replicator Y-axis motor adjustment.
I printed the it out and test fited it and got the holes right. The nice thing is that you can mount it inside or outside the machine and with a 30mm bolt you can get the full adjustment range of the slots.
Hope you enjoy it all and when I get some time I will print out one of those tensioners. I think they would work too. Thankfully if anyone wants to do it before I get to it they would just hold the piece up and drill two holes.
I wonder if it would have the benefits of the new Replicator 2 if the side were made out of aluminum?   A little stiffer.  What size sheets of plywood are needed?
 It all depends on how you cut things. If you were cutting it out of a single piece of wood it would be 51"x39" but if you broke it up the larges pieces are 19x19"
So 2 pieces at 19x19
and 4 pieces at 13x19
 that will look pretty but it will be expensive. That why I opted for wood and painted it shinny black.
$0 here. Fabrication shop I'm working at throws pieces that size in the dumpster all day every day. So ridiculous! Wish you were NY based, I'd be happy to help you out with the laser cut goodies.
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