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This is a redesign of a rocket I flew when I was just a boy. That one flew several flights reaching 2700 feet, using Estes C engines, but I would not recommend it for this one. Stick to A and B.
There are various challenges to a successful print with this, and any other object that has thin walls, inner circles, and small pointy features, but with careful adjustments to you slicing parameters, and a decent hot end, you can get some really rewarding results.
My preferred slicer is Skeinforge, so my suggestions may or may not apply if you are using one of the newer slicing utilities out there.
Bottom: Some people printing on glass use bottom to get a better grip on the first layer. I leave it disabled and just home my bed closer to the glass. For this print, I have raft enabled, so it does not matter either way.
Carve: Edge Width over Height (Ratio) 1.8, Layer height (mm) 0.3 / 300ÃÂµm
Chamber: Bed Temperature (Celcius) 110.
Of course, this is for ABS. If you are using raft, or skirt, and notice that your plastic is curling up in the wake of your hotend on the first layer, your bed is either too hot, or too cold. Try goin +/-5ÃÂ°C, and see which direction improves the result. Repeat at the new temperature until you find the right balance.
Cool: Cool Type Slow Down, Minimum Layer Time (Seconds) 3
This setting is most important when printing the nose cone. Especially when getting near the tip. If the layer completes too quickly, the tip will end up looking rough and blobby. Slowing down to enforce a minimum layer time helps to minimize this effect. Depending on your hotend, you may need to adjust the time to be longer. See the comparison photo.
Fill: Extra Shells 2-1-1, Infill Solidity (Ratio) 0.0, Thread Sequence Choice Loops > Infill > Perimeter
The model is essentially hollow, but the walls are 1mm thick, so you don't want fill to be turned off. The layer height play into this too, so using a smaller value there will require that you bump up the extra shells, to prevent any zigzag fill inside the walls, which might generate unwanted vibration during the print.
Raft: My bed is very level, so I don't need to use raft, but I also dont want my rocket to warp during printing, as this will ignite the atmosphere, and kill billions of inhabitants of the planet. LOL, Just checking if you're actually paying attention.
Temperature: ABS Black from 3D Printer Stuff @ 230ÃÂ°C
That's about it. If you didn't see your favorite module mentioned, assume that I have it at defaults, or in the case of Limit: disabled.
One last couple of hints. If you want to type [ÃÂ°C] or [ÃÂµm], you can use the [ALT]0176 and [ALT]0181 keystrokes respectively.
Rocket Bolt High Flyer by wildseyed is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike license.
So what's this mean?
We're sure wildseyed would love to see what you've printed - take a photo and share it on Thingiverse as a Make.
To post a Make simply visit this Thing again and click I Made One to start uploading your photo. You can also download the Thingiverse Mobile app (available via Google Play and Apple App Store) to take a photo and upload your Make right from the app!