Loading
Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

Case for RepRapDiscount Smart Controller

by wersy, published

Case for RepRapDiscount Smart Controller by wersy Nov 23, 2012

Description

As a guideline I had this very beautiful design of reprapdiscount:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26093
But it was impossible for me to change it in a way to make it easily printable. So I decided to make my own version. But I wouldn't do it without using the excellent professional made little elastic kill button.
While I created this case I had neither the LDC board nor the LCD. So "Hardwarekiller" send me, very exactly, all the needed measurements by email - and everything's fit well.

Recent Comments

view all
Thank you. Have fun when printing - and maybe we'll see a photograph of it ?
Awesome! I'll try it
What a pity! Clones can be different sometimes.
Thank you for the compliment.

More from 3D Printer Accessories

view more

Liked By

view all

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag. Print Thing Tag

Instructions

To let the case apear more flat (and to cover possible impressisions ;-) I created a channel outside between the top and bottom part.
I had to learn that the LCD sizes are a bit different even if they look similar. Therefore I made two variants of the top case with different cut outs for the display:
Top Case cut out 98.4 x 40.4 mm
Top Case cut out 97.4 x 40.4 mm
There are also two variants of the bottom case for the cable slots coming out only on the front side or on back and front side:
Bottom Case front slots
Bottom Case back and front slots
The case with back and front slots is 0.5 mm higher to give more room for the cable between the controller board and the bottom, in case you want the cable coming out on the back side.
The bottom part contains several screw nut deepenings for fastening the case as you like. If you mount it to an 8 mm rod you can use the case clamps.
If you use the kill button 8.5 mm it will stick out 0.5 mm. It is then easier to push.
To assembly you need:
4 screws M3 x 12 with nuts
4 screws M3 x 20with nuts
2 self-cutting screws 2 mm x 5 (for the button but it works also without tighten it).
To get the controller knob lower you have to shorten the tack for about 4 mm.

Edit 29.12.2012
"MikeP-NZ" post his printed controller case but use a different knob. I think it is much more practical to use this thinner knob. One can revolve it faster. So designed one like that and - I enjoy it already :-)

Update 03.May 2014
I add "controller knob 6,4"
It has an inner diameter of 6,4 mm which is 0,1 mm more.

Awesome! I'll try it
Thank you. Have fun when printing - and maybe we'll see a photograph of it ?
I have 2 reprapdiscount modules (clones from ebay) and unfortunately the back plate does not fit because the double connectors on my boards is mounted horizontal and not 90 degrees. By the way i like your simple and clean design!
What a pity! Clones can be different sometimes.
Thank you for the compliment.
what do i do with the clamp?
You can use the clamp to fasten the controller case to 8 mm rods, horizontal or vertical.
Just drill through the nut pockets which you need.
Unfortunately, the knob's center hole is a tiny bit too narrow. I suggest you make it a bit larger (just a tiny little bit) and add ridges to the hole for extra grip.
I wonder nobody commented on that before. It is generally a problem to print tight holes precise. It depends often of what temperature, speed, material, slicer and settings are used. Though I meanwhile have some experience, I use to make some test prints first if the holes must be rather exactly. I am afraid, ridges would make it even more incalculable.
But I can make variations with different hole diameter. In your case, say +0.1 mm? Tell me which knob it is and I can upload it.
But currently I can't upload with my poor internet acces. It will take at least some days - we had a lightning strike into our house...
Artaex - in reply to wersy
I think a 0.1mm larger hole should work. Thanks in advance. It's the circular knob (controller_knob.stl).
wersy - in reply to Artaex
I just uploaded "controller knob 6.4.stl".
I hope it fits better for you now, otherwise let me know it.
Artaex - in reply to wersy
Thanks! It fits a lot better now. However, the hole is a tiny tiny tiny bit too large now. It's a snug fit, but it's not very tight. Perhaps make it 0.02mm smaller?
wersy - in reply to Artaex
Do you mean 0.02 mm around? That would make minus 0.04 mm difference of the hole, including the flat side.
Or do you think to make the komplete hole minus 0.02 mm? I am not shure if the printer will notice such little difference.
What if I set the flat side 0.05 mm to inside (where it was before) and let the hole to 6.4 mm?
Note, the inner corners are never printed sharp. Maybe you chamfer the edges of the shaft a little if it is tight?
Artaex - in reply to wersy
I think 0.05mm flat side to the inside would work.
why not adjust your flow rate to 80% on the original? your florwate is to heigh
wersy - in reply to Artaex
I just uploaded "controller knob 6.4 mod.stl" with 0.05 mm flat side to inside.
Additionally I extended the hole with a round hole 0.6 mm height and chamfered the knob on top and bottom to give it a slim look.
I am curious if it fits and you like the design.
wersy - in reply to wersy
I uploaded a version "controller knob 6.4 mod2.stl". That means the hole is 2 mm deeper.
That will give the knob more guidance and footing.
Case also fits the ebay lcd board i have not sure of the seller but looks like there are many clones being sold on ebay. Nicest fitting case ive ever printed out. When i get it finished ill post a picture.
Thank you...
Very well done, it looks like piano paint - really noble :-)
Thanks for your feedback, I am glad you like it.
At the right side seems to be a little gap. Did you used the 98,4 mm version?
The case looks great. What material you used and how did you manage to make so smooth and glossy?
Oah your rite the gap is not noticeable except with the camera flash. I believe i used the 97.4 case.
Not knowing how it would turn out i used the ugliest filament i had (like olive drab green) Turns out it fit so well i scraped it with a razor blade then painted it with 2 coats of gloss black fusion paint (the stuff that sticks to plastic) i use it allot and its great stuff! All the captive nut slots worked perfectly the button and sd slot work great. I have printed a few cases for things before and this is the nicest design by far. I even ordered another lcd for my other printer so soon ill have another case printed out... Thanks
Is this display using the I2C bus or individual bus wires? Looks like a neat unit.
I printed this and the hole for the "e-stop" doesn't line up, in fact it is quite far off. Is this due to the rotary switch size or has reprap discount changed the board?

Here is a picture of how much the hole is off, I did confirm this with another person. This is a black board LCD/SD.

dropbox.com/s/o71borgjuqso4yc/2013-02-04%2023.41.49.jpg
wersy - in reply to tjb1
Oh please, do not look through the hole - just put in the kill button and push it ;-)
Allthough it is not aligned, contact should still be possible. And yes, I moved the hole a little down to make room for a bigger knob. However, now I prefer the smaller knob, which I also have added, and I feel is much better to handle.
Le-Seaw - in reply to tjb1
the same here :(
Hi Le-Seaw
You did print a case also? How about showing a picture ;-)
Hi, dear

It is good case for smart lcd from reprapdiscount ebayer

I printed 98.4 top case, and back&front slot bottom case and it is perfect for me

too I printed kill button 8.5 

Thank you very much this is a good job

best regards
Thank you, I'm glad you like it. Which color you printed?
I would be very glad if you could post a picture to "MadeOne!"

Best regards
Top