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Treads

by LoialOtter, published

Treads by LoialOtter Nov 25, 2012

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Description

This is a section of tread for a RC Nerf Tank I'm designing.

Sprocket Idler: thingiverse.com/thing:35909
Smaller Idler: thingiverse.com/thing:35950

These are being used on my RC Nerf Tank:
thingiverse.com/thing:36305


These were printed on Tiny, my overly large 3d printer. Details and updates on my printer can be found on ottersoft.ca/blog

Recent Comments

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Perhaps you could spread a thin coat out on a smooth surface and just stamp the pieces in it.
I printed them at 70%, and 16ga wire (1.3mm) wire worked perfectly for the pins. Copper wire was very easy to work with yet plenty strong for the purpose. At 70% scale, the tracks are about 33.8mm wide
I printed them out at 60%, which is a more useful size for me and... serendipity: wire from a standard paperclip now fits the holes perfectly.

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Treads by LoialOtter is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.

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Instructions

Print lots of these then use peices of 2mm wire bent up at either end to tie together. I also ran a drill bit through just to make sure the fit was a little loose.
I printed them at 70%, and 16ga wire (1.3mm) wire worked perfectly for the pins. Copper wire was very easy to work with yet plenty strong for the purpose. At 70% scale, the tracks are about 33.8mm wide
I printed them out at 60%, which is a more useful size for me and... serendipity: wire from a standard paperclip now fits the holes perfectly.
I made some. Nice. Full size is way too big for what I'm building. 75% is still too big but...50% is tiny. Some where between is bound to be in a happy place. Fun to listen to as it printed too. 
You could add some traction for smooth surfaces by dipping the bottom of each segment in plastidip (used for adding rubber grips to tool handles).
Perhaps you could spread a thin coat out on a smooth surface and just stamp the pieces in it.
Plastidip also comes in a spray can. Easier to apply, but you may have to do a lot of masking.
That is an awesome idea. I'll have to try it.
if you don't have wire and can go to a 3mm hole, why not use plastic rivets instead of wire? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34510
I'll make a variant with a printable pin that goes through all the way. Will have to be in a bit though, I'm working on the sprockets and idlers right now.
The rivet he linked to in this case was just a piece of 3mm filament. The biggest problem I have run into with them is the slight curve most filament has from being spooled. I found that Harbor Freight has some 3.5mm plastic rods used in their plastic welder that works well as they are pretty straight. Main issue of course is the larger diameter.
Put the piece of filament on the heated platform for 30 seconds, less even. Take it off, roll it on a flat surface using your index finger, it will cure it dead straight.
Impressive build!  What is the print space on that monster?  What are you clocking it at?  I am thoroughly impressed...
Oh, forgot to mention build area. It's print area is 700mm x 350mm x 350mm though I'm hoping to increase that a  little with some adjusted tool mounts. Right now the y-axis is limited by the crossing cables otherwise it'd be 400mm or so.
Normal prints like this I run at 60mm/s shell and 120mm/s infill.

I did a test print the other night at 150mm/s and 300mm/s infill. The results are up on my blog and are very good.
Very nice custom setup!
 Thank you. It's shaping up to be an amazing machine. I can switch the toolhead out to be a milling machine too on top of being a super printer.
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