MendelMax 1.5 with integrated electronics
by srepmub, published
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Sorry for the late reply. I found out that the printbed-shake leads to a shaking print head. I've upgraded to mendelmax 1.5 style X-Ends which are really sturdy. The bearing-grip is way to springy and the stepper holder moving the printhead is springy as well. This keeps adding up on rough edges.
rather than print stronger x-ends, I now think vertical X ends are the way to go (more rigid construction, simpler, less plastic..), for example these:
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First, I designed the following two things to be able to raise my MendelMax, so that I could mount the PSU and electronics inside, on an integrated floorboard:
To protect the PSU from falling debris, aluminum netting used in model building worked really well (awesome stuff btw):
Rather than print clips to hide the wiring, I found that electrical tape works well and looks great:
The following are wonderful x-ends, though they ended up a bit too flexible for my taste (may be my fault, or some parts are just too thin):
As for the x and y cars:
Extruder, also from Jonas Kuehling:
It's a bit ugly, but I couldn't find a better method to tension my x belt:
My heatbed consists of the following layers:
First, an aluminum plate, because we all like aluminum:
Second, a layer of cartboard wrapped in aluminum foil, to avoid losing heat.
Third, a Prusa heated bed, and fourth, borosilicate glass:
In combination with my 12V PSU and RAMPS 1.4 electronics, the bed warms up really quickly.
I use springs between the aluminum and the heated bed, to be able to easily level the bed.
Sanded kapton tape and some ABS juice keep my prints very well attached during printing.
As for print head, I used a J-head V. Nice and small.
I ended up using these pretty microswitch holders:
As well as this power panel:
For lighting, LED strips are great:
I've upgraded the printer in the meantime with precision leadscrews, and disabled z-lifting to avoid z-backlash, and am now getting really nice results at a layer height of about 0.23 mm :
PET sheets also seem to work much better than kapton tape so far (less tears, no seams between pieces of tape, prints seems easier to remove after printing):
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