MendelMax 1.5 with integrated electronics
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Published on November 25, 2012
Derived from
MendelMax 1.5
by kludgineer
Description
A heightened MendelMax 1.5, with integrated floorboard and electronics.
Instructions
I just finished my 1.5 (lm8uu) build, and in the spirit of open source decided to list the important parts I used here.
First, I designed the following two things to be able to raise my MendelMax, so that I could mount the PSU and electronics inside, on an integrated floorboard:
thingiverse.com/thing:28669
thingiverse.com/thing:33612
To protect the PSU from falling debris, aluminum netting used in model building worked really well (awesome stuff btw):
conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/211922/NOCH-60990-Aluminium-gaas/SHOP_AREA_20023&promotionareaSearchDetail=005
Rather than print clips to hide the wiring, I found that electrical tape works well and looks great:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_tape
The following are wonderful x-ends, though they ended up a bit too flexible for my taste (may be my fault, or some parts are just too thin):
thingiverse.com/thing:18384
As for the x and y cars:
thingiverse.com/thing:18657
thingiverse.com/thing:17188
Extruder, also from Jonas Kuehling:
thingiverse.com/thing:18379
It's a bit ugly, but I couldn't find a better method to tension my x belt:
thingiverse.com/thing:13164
My heatbed consists of the following layers:
First, an aluminum plate, because we all like aluminum:
lulzbot.com/products/aluminium-bed-mount-plate
Second, a layer of cartboard wrapped in aluminum foil, to avoid losing heat.
Third, a Prusa heated bed, and fourth, borosilicate glass:
lulzbot.com/products/borosilicate-glass-bed
In combination with my 12V PSU and RAMPS 1.4 electronics, the bed warms up really quickly.
I use springs between the aluminum and the heated bed, to be able to easily level the bed.
Sanded kapton tape and some ABS juice keep my prints very well attached during printing.
As for print head, I used a J-head V. Nice and small.
I ended up using these pretty microswitch holders:
thingiverse.com/thing:28728
As well as this power panel:
thingiverse.com/thing:24053
For lighting, LED strips are great:
buyledstrip.com/en/
update:
I've upgraded the printer in the meantime with precision leadscrews, and disabled z-lifting to avoid z-backlash, and am now getting really nice results at a layer height of about 0.23 mm :
techpaladin.com/store/#ecwid:category=1941327&mode=product&product=8445245
thingiverse.com/derivative:35257
PET sheets also seem to work much better than kapton tape so far (less tears, no seams between pieces of tape, prints seems easier to remove after printing):
lulzbot.com/?q=Pet-Tape-12x12-sheet-green-5-pack
First, I designed the following two things to be able to raise my MendelMax, so that I could mount the PSU and electronics inside, on an integrated floorboard:
thingiverse.com/thing:28669
thingiverse.com/thing:33612
To protect the PSU from falling debris, aluminum netting used in model building worked really well (awesome stuff btw):
conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/211922/NOCH-60990-Aluminium-gaas/SHOP_AREA_20023&promotionareaSearchDetail=005
Rather than print clips to hide the wiring, I found that electrical tape works well and looks great:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_tape
The following are wonderful x-ends, though they ended up a bit too flexible for my taste (may be my fault, or some parts are just too thin):
thingiverse.com/thing:18384
As for the x and y cars:
thingiverse.com/thing:18657
thingiverse.com/thing:17188
Extruder, also from Jonas Kuehling:
thingiverse.com/thing:18379
It's a bit ugly, but I couldn't find a better method to tension my x belt:
thingiverse.com/thing:13164
My heatbed consists of the following layers:
First, an aluminum plate, because we all like aluminum:
lulzbot.com/products/aluminium-bed-mount-plate
Second, a layer of cartboard wrapped in aluminum foil, to avoid losing heat.
Third, a Prusa heated bed, and fourth, borosilicate glass:
lulzbot.com/products/borosilicate-glass-bed
In combination with my 12V PSU and RAMPS 1.4 electronics, the bed warms up really quickly.
I use springs between the aluminum and the heated bed, to be able to easily level the bed.
Sanded kapton tape and some ABS juice keep my prints very well attached during printing.
As for print head, I used a J-head V. Nice and small.
I ended up using these pretty microswitch holders:
thingiverse.com/thing:28728
As well as this power panel:
thingiverse.com/thing:24053
For lighting, LED strips are great:
buyledstrip.com/en/
update:
I've upgraded the printer in the meantime with precision leadscrews, and disabled z-lifting to avoid z-backlash, and am now getting really nice results at a layer height of about 0.23 mm :
techpaladin.com/store/#ecwid:category=1941327&mode=product&product=8445245
thingiverse.com/derivative:35257
PET sheets also seem to work much better than kapton tape so far (less tears, no seams between pieces of tape, prints seems easier to remove after printing):
lulzbot.com/?q=Pet-Tape-12x12-sheet-green-5-pack
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Kulturfolger
on
December 18, 2012
said:
Your Mendelmax looks great. Maybe another Addition is this Belt Shield: http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
hindessm
on
November 26, 2012
said:
Thanks for the tip about the aluminium mesh. I've been wanting to do something about that on my MendelMax and that sounds perfect.
License
MendelMax 1.5 with integrated electronics by srepmub is licensed under the Attribution - Share Alike - Creative Commons license.

Sorry for the late reply. I found out that the printbed-shake leads to a shaking print head. I've upgraded to mendelmax 1.5 style X-Ends which are really sturdy. The bearing-grip is way to springy and the stepper holder moving the printhead is springy as well. This keeps adding up on rough edges.