Solidoodle 2 Z-NutHugger
Description
Helps prevent wobble using a 5/16-18 nut.
Instructions
Put on 5/16-18 nut.
Put this over the nut.
Enjoy less wobbly-wobble.
Print again with less wobbly.
Replace wobbly with the less wobbly
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Does the Solidoodle really use a non-metric-pitch leadscrew for the Z axis?
If so, there's a good chance you're using a layer height that is not a multiple of the motor's full-step resolution, which results in an inaccuracy of the Z steps that produces an effect that is easy to mistake for Z wobble and gets worse when you attempt higher resolution prints.
I guess it does, but I'm sure they've compensated for all that in the firmware or something. Im not the authority on the matter or anything, I just know I had much worse horizontal banding when I didn't have anything stabilizing the rod. As far as accuracy goes, I really can't really say either because I'm just a noob, and don't know how to fully calibrate the machine yet. I know they say it's fully calibrated out of the box, but I don't think any rep-rap is fully calibrated right from the factory to be that precise. I can say it did print satisfactory parts without any modification to the firmware or the machine itself when I first got it, just not as good as it can be in the hands of a seasoned user.
This is just a spin off from someone else's fix that didn't work in my particular case because I bought a wrong nut that had a nylon bushing and was taller than a regular nut.
The part that you see in the picture was actually printed in .1mm layers so I think it works pretty well. In fact, I think many people in the Solidoodle community are printing at .1mm as well. They've even released an official .1mm profile for all solidoodle users just yesterday. I personally haven't tried it out because I've already been printing at .1mm for a few days now, and I'd rather not fix what Isn't broken... thats usually how I break things..lol.
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I quite like your z-nut fix. In my case, however, to get your piece on would require too much or too little tension on the nut. I had to print out the other two part hex-nut fix (on the solidoodle wiki) because that design, though less lovely, does not require a certain orientation on the nut.