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Solidoodle 2 Z-NutHugger

by Meshmoth, published

Solidoodle 2 Z-NutHugger by Meshmoth Nov 30, 2012

Description

Solidoodle z-axis nut coupler. Helps prevent wobble using a 5/16-18 nut.

Recent Comments

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I quite like your z-nut fix. In my case, however, to get your piece on would require too much or too little tension on the nut. I had to print out the other two part hex-nut fix (on the solidoodle wiki) because that design, though less lovely, does not require a certain orientation on the nut. 
It definitely shows up more at .1mm layers and smaller, but any unevenness will cause the layers to be more or less compressed. When the layer is compressed too much, the plastic sticks out on the sides, likewise when it's not compressed enough, it creates an indentation. This effect looks a lot like Z-wobble, and ruins the surfaces of prints.
If a motor is commanded to move a distance that is a partial step, does it round up or down to the closest full step, or will it always round down?

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Instructions

Print.

Put on 5/16-18 nut.

Put this over the nut.

Enjoy less wobbly-wobble.

Print again with less wobbly.

Replace wobbly with the less wobbly

I quite like your z-nut fix. In my case, however, to get your piece on would require too much or too little tension on the nut. I had to print out the other two part hex-nut fix (on the solidoodle wiki) because that design, though less lovely, does not require a certain orientation on the nut. 
Does the Solidoodle really use a non-metric-pitch leadscrew for the Z axis?

If so, there's a good chance you're using a layer height that is not a multiple of the motor's full-step resolution, which results in an inaccuracy of the Z steps that produces an effect that is easy to mistake for Z wobble and gets worse when you attempt higher resolution prints.
 I guess it does, but I'm sure they've compensated for all that in the firmware or something. Im not the authority on the matter or anything, I just know I had much worse horizontal banding when I didn't have anything stabilizing the rod. As far as accuracy goes, I really can't really say either because I'm just a noob, and don't know how to fully calibrate the machine yet. I know they say it's fully calibrated out of the box, but I don't think any rep-rap is fully calibrated right from the factory to be that precise. I can say it did print satisfactory parts without any modification to the firmware or the machine itself when I first got it, just not as good as it can be in the hands of a seasoned user.

This is just a spin off from someone else's fix that didn't work in my particular case because I bought a wrong nut that had a nylon bushing and was taller than a regular nut.

The part that you see in the picture was actually printed in .1mm layers so I think it works pretty well. In fact, I think many people in the Solidoodle community are printing at .1mm as well. They've even released an official .1mm profile for all solidoodle users just yesterday. I personally haven't tried it out because I've already been printing at .1mm for a few days now, and I'd rather not fix what Isn't broken... thats usually how I break things..lol.
You can't compensate for it in the firmware, only in the slicer's settings. I posted a more detailed description with calculations here:

plus.google.com/103952217427276934615/posts/XfPb6tstxkQ
If a motor is commanded to move a distance that is a partial step, does it round up or down to the closest full step, or will it always round down?
The nut hugger isn't actually a wobble fix, it's a backlash fix.  Once you have the nut tightened down the right amount to remove backlash without binding up the Z movement, you slide the nut hugger on to hold it in place.  It is probably best used with a spring since the orientation of the nut may not match the hugger once you have the right amount of tension.
It definitely shows up more at .1mm layers and smaller, but any unevenness will cause the layers to be more or less compressed. When the layer is compressed too much, the plastic sticks out on the sides, likewise when it's not compressed enough, it creates an indentation. This effect looks a lot like Z-wobble, and ruins the surfaces of prints.
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