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Nylon Linear bearing

by MakeALot, published

Nylon Linear bearing by MakeALot Dec 1, 2012

Description

Direct replacement for LMB6UU (3/8") Linear bearing as used in Thing-o-Matic mods.

Recent Comments

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Very interested in your trials on the Replicator 2. It is what I will be experimenting on using nylon as well. Looks like some great stuff.
1.75 mm up for pre order today !

My daughter wants size 7 blue shoes to her design and exact size.
Will I be able to get it working in a Replicator 2?
Hmmm...Same problem with Elmers Glue All.  Maybe I'll try wood glue next.  

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Instructions

Buy some 3mm Taulman 618 Nylon (it's brilliant), print some of these at: 100% object infill, 0.29mm layer height, 0 extra shells, 245 degrees C, bed 50 degrees on a PVA painted kapton bed.

and use them wherever a design calls for LMB6UU 3/8" ID Linear bearing.

I'm expecting them to last well, but even if they only last a short while, at $20/lb (454 grammes), each bearing cost $0.10, compared with $5 for the LMB6UU.

BTW, the Nylon does not de-laminate, so I'm going to print some linear mounting blocks and upgrade all of my ToM carriages.

1.75 mm up for pre order today !

My daughter wants size 7 blue shoes to her design and exact size.
Will I be able to get it working in a Replicator 2?
Very interested in your trials on the Replicator 2. It is what I will be experimenting on using nylon as well. Looks like some great stuff.
What temp are you running your bed at when printing nylon on the PVA?
50-80, both seemed to work well, I haven't printed anything big that would curl.
Argh, I'm finding that the warpage of the nylon pulls the PVA off the tape.  Sticks very well to the PVA, but the PVA doesn't stay adhered to the tape.  Any ideas?
It was new tape on my machine, you could try a higher ratio say 1:1 and make sure its good and dry before you print.  What temp are you running the bed?
Hmmm...Same problem with Elmers Glue All.  Maybe I'll try wood glue next.  
Glue!  Hah, well that's a lot cheaper too!  
Well, we still know now that nylon sticks to PVA filament too.  :D
Do you have some, I always have a gallon of it in the garage, we use it a lot in the UK to prepare/prime/seal surfaces.

I should have been more specific.

I assume it's just made of PVA and water, just a lot of PVA to make it thick.

PVA solution should penetrate / stick well to painters tape.
Weird, I can't reply to your last question.  No "reply button".  
I used PVA filament from ProtoParadigm. 
Yes, I found that the other day, I think it only works to 5 levels. Anyway. Sorry, my bad, in the UK when we talk about PVA adhesive, we just call it PVA.  you should be using PVA Adhesive, or wood glue, mixed with water.  
I tried 65, split the difference.  Tape was new.  First tried PET, then sanded PET, and then kapton.  Kapton was better, but barely.  
The "juice" looks the color and consistency of milk.  
Did you use PVA adhesive or actual PVA?
What do you mean with the Nylon does not de-laminate?
The slices of the model bond so securely that it is strong in all directions when you tear it apart, it does not separate along the layer lines, it rips like a solid material equally along the lines as through them.

I did a test where part way through a build, I placed a piece of painter's tape over a section of the model.  Once the build was complete, I removed the tape and pulled the two halves apart where the tape had been, but I could not get the model to tear, under a great force, it ripped but not along the lines.

I don't know if you get oranges in nylon mesh bags in the states, if you do, you'll know that it is easy to cut you finger trying to pull one apart.  It's the same with this stuff.
It is really incredible. There was always talk about the fumes produced by the PTFE liner in the MK6+ when using high temperatures (245-250C). Have you switched the liner in yours?
Been wondering about this with the Budaschnozzle too since it has a PTFE liner.  My totally untested and probably unfounded theory, at least with the Buda, is that the PTFE is far enough away from the heater that if the block is at 250 max, the PTFE temp is safely under that.  Would love to hear confirmation or refutal of that. 
I am wondering the same thing. What is your setup for printing with the Nylon filament.
MakeALot - in reply to
I haven't changed anything and I print in a small attic, no fumes that I have detected.  Having said that, I didn't consider it and I've only done short prints.
Luckily, I've only been up to 248!
Teflon (PTFE) will emit fumes anywhere in the 250-350 degree range. The fumes  are known to kill birds and can be harmful to your lungs. 

The higher the temperature the more fumes are released.
I just purchased some Taulman 618 Nylon, I can't wait for it to arrive and to try printing out a few nylon parts. From what I've read about nylon extrusion, trapped water in the nylon seems to cause issues with extrusion. Have you experienced any issues with this?
Not really, it comes in a spool that closes around the filament, reducing the amount of water ingress.  I keep it in the bag with the desiccant.  I did notice, when I first got it home and it was much colder than the surrounding air, there were some small steam bubbles in the final print (very tiny) but once it was at room temperature the problem disappeared.  There is a small wisp of steam issuing from the nozzle during extrusion, but it does not effect the print.  

I think your linear rail may be a good candidate.
That's exactly what I've been thinking as well. I'm going to print some threaded rods with nylon nuts and see if I can address the sticking issues I had before.
 what printer are you using for 3mm?
i got some nylon but have yet to get my printrbot jr running as yet
(issue on computer side so no disrespect to printrbot)
i HAVE A tHING-OmATIC STILL SETUP FOR 3MM abs 
 I'm pretty excited about nylon. Once i have my computer/printrbot jr running i am sure for now it will be my nylon printer. I did make a mod to the Jr. I extended the z by 5 inches and i mounted the
printer to a base to steady it for the change. BenitoSanduchi 's use of perfboard as a print surface is probably how I will go as it seems like a elegant solution. Nylon to make molds is a a major incentive, and flexible molds means being able to make cavities which do not need to be angled for removal.
really exciting stuff (well to me anyhow)
Can't take credit for the perfboard solution, that's all Taulman, but it does work.  I'm excited to try the PVA though.  Just came in the mail yesterday.  No more nubs on the bottom of the parts would be great.  
I agree, it opens up even more possibilities. :-)
Nice one - I've got a couple rolls of Taulman's special headed back with me.  How are you making your PVA paint?
Easy, just mix 1 part PVA with 3 parts water, keep it in an old jar next to the printer, when the print finished, paint on a layer with a paint brush (avoiding drips into the works) and by the time it cools, you have a smooth PVA coating over your Kapton tape.

After about 10 prints, the PVA starts to get a little thick, this makes the surface higher and softer, at this point, I usually peel the PVA layer off and start again, sometimes needing new Kapton, sometimes not.

I did try this straight onto the Aluminium bed, but it was difficult to clean up completely, so it's nice to have the tape underneath.

I did start to experiment with PVA on mica sheet (from microwave repair sheets), but this is so easy, I never finished testing that.
Now I wish I had a 3 mm extruder - he said a 1.75 mm is in the works...and I can't wait to try it out.  

Question - after printing this nylon can it be machined?
Absolutely, as to machining.  You should use steel tooling. cutters, mills, end-mills.  Flat or tipped.
You can drill it or just drive screws into it.  What I use most, is to make a slightly smaller hole than desired then use a tap to thread the hole.  As long as you meet the same thickness requirements as aluminum, you should be good.  Also, remember it’s a natural color as there are NO color additives, so it leans a bit from natural to tinged white for best uptake of dyes.  We keep it natural as we found color additives can reduce bonding.  Dying the final part keeps the surface luster as printed.   Also, as to using a tap for threads.  618 cuts, rather than scares and that is why using a tap works well.
I have some dyes on order, but I did try balsamic vinegar and I ended up with a lovely chocolate brown part.  My daughter said it would be a nice colour for a pair of shoes (hint hint), fortunately the build platform on my ToM isn't big enough for her foot (although the Replicator 2 is so I may have to address that when the 1.75 mm is available)
PVA painted kapton eh?  The 618 sticks to it?
Yes, 1 part pva 3 parts water paint on between prints.  The PVA is pulled off the Kapton on component removal, but a quick brush of PVA solution re-amalgamates the surface.
Nice!  This probably means that PVA will make good support material for dual extruder setups when printing nylon too.  
Yes, I think so. 
I'm currently quite lax about filament storage, but this and PVA are more sensitive to moisture, the spool that comes with the Nylon addresses this to a degree, it's an interesting design.  Hopefully, we can get PVA in a similar way.
 Which actually means I need to lay hands on some PVA - you have a source UK side of the pond?  I'm still stateside, but didn't think to order any.....
Not in the UK, although 3dKarma say they're going to. 

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