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Nylon Linear bearing

by MakeALot, published

Nylon Linear bearing by MakeALot Dec 1, 2012

Description

Direct replacement for LMB6UU (3/8") Linear bearing as used in Thing-o-Matic mods.


Recent Comments

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Very interested in your trials on the Replicator 2. It is what I will be experimenting on using nylon as well. Looks like some great stuff.

1.75 mm up for pre order today !

My daughter wants size 7 blue shoes to her design and exact size.
Will I be able to get it working in a Replicator 2?

Hmmm...Same problem with Elmers Glue All.  Maybe I'll try wood glue next.  

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Instructions

Buy some 3mm Taulman 618 Nylon (it's brilliant), print some of these at:
100% object infill, 0.29mm layer height, 0 extra shells, 245 degrees C, bed 50 degrees on a PVA painted kapton bed.

and use them wherever a design calls for LMB6UU 3/8" ID Linear bearing.

I'm expecting them to last well, but even if they only last a short while, at $20/lb (454 grammes), each bearing cost $0.10, compared with $5 for the LMB6UU.

BTW, the Nylon does not de-laminate, so I'm going to print some linear mounting blocks and upgrade all of my ToM carriages.

Comments

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MakeALot on Dec 12, 2012 said:

1.75 mm up for pre order today !

My daughter wants size 7 blue shoes to her design and exact size.
Will I be able to get it working in a Replicator 2?

infinityplusplus on Dec 12, 2012 said:

Very interested in your trials on the Replicator 2. It is what I will be experimenting on using nylon as well. Looks like some great stuff.

BenitoSanduchi on Dec 8, 2012 said:

What temp are you running your bed at when printing nylon on the PVA?

MakeALot on Dec 8, 2012 said:

50-80, both seemed to work well, I haven't printed anything big that would curl.

Bluemetal on Dec 5, 2012 said:

What do you mean with the Nylon does not de-laminate?

MakeALot on Dec 5, 2012 said:

The slices of the model bond so securely that it is strong in all directions when you tear it apart, it does not separate along the layer lines, it rips like a solid material equally along the lines as through them.

I did a test where part way through a build, I placed a piece of painter's tape over a section of the model.  Once the build was complete, I removed the tape and pulled the two halves apart where the tape had been, but I could not get the model to tear, under a great force, it ripped but not along the lines.

I don't know if you get oranges in nylon mesh bags in the states, if you do, you'll know that it is easy to cut you finger trying to pull one apart.  It's the same with this stuff.

PacManFan on Dec 3, 2012 said:

I just purchased some Taulman 618 Nylon, I can't wait for it to arrive and to try printing out a few nylon parts. From what I've read about nylon extrusion, trapped water in the nylon seems to cause issues with extrusion. Have you experienced any issues with this?

MakeALot on Dec 3, 2012 said:

Not really, it comes in a spool that closes around the filament, reducing the amount of water ingress.  I keep it in the bag with the desiccant.  I did notice, when I first got it home and it was much colder than the surrounding air, there were some small steam bubbles in the final print (very tiny) but once it was at room temperature the problem disappeared.  There is a small wisp of steam issuing from the nozzle during extrusion, but it does not effect the print.  

I think your linear rail may be a good candidate.

cerberus333 on Dec 2, 2012 said:

 what printer are you using for 3mm?
i got some nylon but have yet to get my printrbot jr running as yet
(issue on computer side so no disrespect to printrbot)

MakeALot on Dec 2, 2012 said:

i HAVE A tHING-OmATIC STILL SETUP FOR 3MM abs 

SystemsGuy on Dec 2, 2012 said:

Nice one - I've got a couple rolls of Taulman's special headed back with me.  How are you making your PVA paint?

MakeALot on Dec 2, 2012 said:

Easy, just mix 1 part PVA with 3 parts water, keep it in an old jar next to the printer, when the print finished, paint on a layer with a paint brush (avoiding drips into the works) and by the time it cools, you have a smooth PVA coating over your Kapton tape.

After about 10 prints, the PVA starts to get a little thick, this makes the surface higher and softer, at this point, I usually peel the PVA layer off and start again, sometimes needing new Kapton, sometimes not.

I did try this straight onto the Aluminium bed, but it was difficult to clean up completely, so it's nice to have the tape underneath.

I did start to experiment with PVA on mica sheet (from microwave repair sheets), but this is so easy, I never finished testing that.

UechiMike on Dec 2, 2012 said:

Now I wish I had a 3 mm extruder - he said a 1.75 mm is in the works...and I can't wait to try it out.  

Question - after printing this nylon can it be machined?

Taulman on Dec 2, 2012 said:

Absolutely, as to machining.  You should use steel tooling. cutters, mills, end-mills.  Flat or tipped.
You can drill it or just drive screws into it.  What I use most, is to make a slightly smaller hole than desired then use a tap to thread the hole.  As long as you meet the same thickness requirements as aluminum, you should be good.  Also, remember it’s a natural color as there are NO color additives, so it leans a bit from natural to tinged white for best uptake of dyes.  We keep it natural as we found color additives can reduce bonding.  Dying the final part keeps the surface luster as printed.   Also, as to using a tap for threads.  618 cuts, rather than scares and that is why using a tap works well.

BenitoSanduchi on Dec 1, 2012 said:

PVA painted kapton eh?  The 618 sticks to it?

MakeALot on Dec 1, 2012 said:

Yes, 1 part pva 3 parts water paint on between prints.  The PVA is pulled off the Kapton on component removal, but a quick brush of PVA solution re-amalgamates the surface.

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