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Aquabot mold (cerby's crawlers 02)

by cerberus333, published

Aquabot mold (cerby's crawlers 02) by cerberus333 Dec 6, 2012

Description

This was my test mold for oogoo tests (oogoo is silicone caulking and cornstarch mixed 50/50 or less starch ) http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-Your-Own-Sugru-Substitute/ if you print it and cast, there are no allignment holes, so you need to use a flat surface to line the sides up. It cast pretty well and was a good mold to learn some about oogoo casting in ABS.

not a derivative but props to jasonwebb for inspiration with this thing: thingiverse.com/thing:31581

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oogoo is rubber. Silicone rubber. with the cornstarch (alone) it has the hardness of the rubber lures (maybe a bit stiffer) if your objective is to fill cracks in ABS I suggest a thicker abs/acetone slurry. I have a few prints that I "healed" major cracks in. here is a good example http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:101341 it was a fast application that filled the cracks. not as clean as a it could be with more care, but I really just did like 3 applications to fill in the cracks if you are doing PLA and painting the models, plastic wood or bondo would be a good choice. it really depends on what the end product is intended for.

Very cool. I will be giving it a try today or tomorrow. How durable are the finished mold's with this stuff? And you say it is kind of rubbery?

I mainly bought it to try to make something that I could hide the seam's on my large scale print's better. Was hoping it would be able to hide it completely. But now I made a mold to test so it could be fun for that also :D Also this mold was just 1 half, it's that mortal kombat symbol I sculpted up. I will add the mold to the thing at some point once I test it.

one other thing. I like tinkercad, but it tends to decimate at the smaller scale. I recomend if you use it to make stuff big, export and the resize in a different app. Meshmixer is a good alternative for boolean functions. It is not perfect (none are) but for the price (free) it is a great option.

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Instructions

print in ABS for the molds, I have not tested oogoo in PLA. I used a 10% infill and the finer a slice the better. Also i have found that acetone wash on the mold cavity makes a smooth surface which looks great on the castings.

casting process: fast cast: mix your oogoo and pack the mold halves place copper wire in the center of the arms and legs for the arms i make one wire hand to hand thru the torso. to center the wire place a few beads on the ends and middle of the limbs (size of beads depend on the mold size and wire size) for the legs again go foot to foot (make a extension into the body a bit to help anchor the wire) again beads help keep the wire centered. once the packed halves are ready to be merged

c-clamps to squeeze the 2 sides together and hold it for the curing period.

fine cast: I have made casts using a thin "painting" of straight silicone caulking that i let harden for 24 hours, and then follow the fast cast procedure. this ensures a better surface finish on the casting. make sure that the thin coat is thin! This is great if you make a glow in the dark outer coating! (using glow pigment)

I bought everything to make some Oogoo, just have not got around to it. I was having problems trying to made a mold with that openscad script, wouldn't do it no matter what. Made the mold in literally 30 second's using tinkercad :P

Any tips on the Oogoo before I go working with it soon?

one other thing. I like tinkercad, but it tends to decimate at the smaller scale. I recomend if you use it to make stuff big, export and the resize in a different app. Meshmixer is a good alternative for boolean functions. It is not perfect (none are) but for the price (free) it is a great option.

Jul 27, 2015 - Modified Jul 27, 2015
cerberus333 - in reply to Bassna

My recipe is 75%silicone 24% corn starch (by volume, (not really exact on measurement) I put a dab of oil paint (artist stuff, cheap wallmart junk) to color. typically mix color first, then add the starch in a plastic bowl. it has the viscosity of peanut butter. you can add some coleman lantern fuel to thin it, but it has the following issues, it smells for a long time. It will shrink when fully cured. personally I prefer to just use the un-thinned stuff. because it is like peanut butter, the following is my process. try to apply some directly to the surface of the mold cavity before filling I usually just overfill the two halves of the mold and squeeze the molds together. A c-clamp or similar device is a good way to get a good cast with minimal flashing. this has a good pictoral of my lure casting. http://www.thingiverse.com/make:84252 finally make sure the silicone is the stuff that smells like vinegar(ish) [silicone I ] or the cheap stuff from walmart (i show in my pics) instructables has a good oogoo instructable

Jul 28, 2015 - Modified Jul 28, 2015
Bassna - in reply to cerberus333

Very cool. I will be giving it a try today or tomorrow. How durable are the finished mold's with this stuff? And you say it is kind of rubbery?

I mainly bought it to try to make something that I could hide the seam's on my large scale print's better. Was hoping it would be able to hide it completely. But now I made a mold to test so it could be fun for that also :D Also this mold was just 1 half, it's that mortal kombat symbol I sculpted up. I will add the mold to the thing at some point once I test it.

oogoo is rubber. Silicone rubber. with the cornstarch (alone) it has the hardness of the rubber lures (maybe a bit stiffer) if your objective is to fill cracks in ABS I suggest a thicker abs/acetone slurry. I have a few prints that I "healed" major cracks in. here is a good example http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:101341 it was a fast application that filled the cracks. not as clean as a it could be with more care, but I really just did like 3 applications to fill in the cracks if you are doing PLA and painting the models, plastic wood or bondo would be a good choice. it really depends on what the end product is intended for.

The Watcher Uatu

oogoo works great with PLA. It acts like teflon or something. It holds ok while curing, but peels right off completely cleanly.

great to know! I have had really good results with ABS, but a LOT of folks seem to favor PLA.

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