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Wersybot - a derivate of The Printrbot

by wersy, published

Wersybot - a derivate of The Printrbot by wersy Dec 7, 2012

Description

Brook Drumm created the wonderful original which is far more rigid and can print much better then most of you would think. It is a great design with small overall dimension but for all that with a big print area. This is the reason that there are a lot of derivates. Thank you very much Brook for that genius idea.
My intention was to be as close as possible to the original parts but with a lot improvements.
Here is one of my first prints: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmT9ujijztQ

Recent Comments

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Hi,
I would be very glad if you build my Wersybot.
It can be a surprisingly precision printer. It depends only on how accurate you align the rods. They must be absolutely right angled in all directions, which is very easy to control.
And of course the parts should be printed well, mainly the base parts. They are bigger as the originals and therefore a bit more difficult to print without warping.
The smaller you build the printer, the more stable it is.
My printer has a build volume of x =164 mm, y =144 mm, z =165 mm. This size enable to use a PCB heat bed MK2 if needed.
I printed with it all parts of the things you can see on Thingiverse.
And yes, I use the Marlin software. You can download it on GitHub: github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/tree/Marlin_v1
Where did you get the Firmware for your RAMPS board?
Looking at it from this perspective, you are correct; although I have modified and upgraded every part of the original Printrbot.
I just wanted to make shure that there can be no mistaking my Printrbot from the original Printrbot.

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Instructions

This printer is optimized for T2.5 belts and 18 teeth aluminium driving gears.
The main parts such as: bases, x-ends and x-carriage with extruder mount are in principle compatible with the original Printrbot. So it is possible to replace them. But with limitations:
The centre line of the x-idler pulley is 0.43 mm higher.
The centre line of the x-motor axis is 0.45 mm higher.
The x-carriage and the extruder mount can only be used together. Due to the different way of fastening the belt, the belt will be 4.5 mm lower.
Most of the parts have holes for tapping drill holes. If you cut the tapping drill holes you must be careful to keep them self-locking. Better use a set of three taps and use only the first one. The tapping drill holes should be as tight as possible.
Base
The width is 100 mm. This increases the self-supporting and extend the bearing clearance of the y-bearings for more guidance bar.
The cut outs for the bearings are longer (25.6 mm) to make it possible to use also IGUS bearings.
There are two M3 tapping drill holes (y-direction) on each side. They are intended for several use:
To fasten the z smooth rod in case it became loose.
To mount a clamp, a socket outlet and plug or whatever.
In x direction are two M3 tapping drill holes.
You can use them to justify the stepper motors orthogonal if needed.
On the bottom are three M4 tapping drill holes.
One in the middle to push out the smooth rod in case it is very trapped and you want to remove it.
The other two can be use to mount the bases on a board.
The two cut outs are cable slots.
X-End-Motor
On the back side it has a nose for the z-endstop with a M3 tapping drill hole. On the top is a M3 screw nut deepening. This is only if you may have cut the threaded hole to wide. In this case you can bond a locknut into the nut deepening or try to bore up for a M4 screw.
In y- direction you can screw in a M4x12 mm screw to fasten the smooth x-rods.
Additional you can use two M3 tapping drill holes in x-direction to push out the smooth rod in case it is very trapped and you want to remove it, or to fix them if they are to short.
X-End-Idler
The same as the X-End-Motor but it has only one hole for M4 to fasten the upper smooth x-rod.
X-Carriage
The x-carriage has a belt tensioner. You must cut a M3 tapping drill holes to use it. One more M3 tapping drill hole you have to cut for the x-stop adjustable screw.
Extruder Mount
The extruder mount is wider than the original to make it possible to mount my fan duct: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34884
It has a third bearing underneath the extruder motor to transfer load from the motor. I placed the motor as near as possible to the x-rods. The inner width between the NEMA 17 and the z-rods are only 2 mm. So don't use a bigger extruder motor ;-)
Furthermore the extruder mount has a cable slot. A good idea that came from the Hugo Printrbot.
Y-Rod Mount
The mount can be fasten with 2 screws. It is possible to remove the smooth rods by only declamp the screws on the clamp side. The other screws will keep the mounts in place. So you can disassemble the carriage or change the smooth rods without adjusting the mounts again.
Besides, two screws gives more stable connection.
Y-Belt Clamp
one of the belt camps is invested with a belt tensioner.
They have three screws for better stable connection.
Y-Endstop
I made a separate Endstop to be free where to place it. For adjusting you have to cut a M3 tapping drill hole.
Z-Coupling
I use the original z-coupling from nophead: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17826
Thank you nophead.
Arduino Holder
I modified the ramps holder from Hugo Printrbot to fit them to my Arduino.
Clamps for 30 mm fan for cooling the electronic. I use only one for each fan.

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Where did you get the Firmware for your RAMPS board?
Hi,
I would be very glad if you build my Wersybot.
It can be a surprisingly precision printer. It depends only on how accurate you align the rods. They must be absolutely right angled in all directions, which is very easy to control.
And of course the parts should be printed well, mainly the base parts. They are bigger as the originals and therefore a bit more difficult to print without warping.
The smaller you build the printer, the more stable it is.
My printer has a build volume of x =164 mm, y =144 mm, z =165 mm. This size enable to use a PCB heat bed MK2 if needed.
I printed with it all parts of the things you can see on Thingiverse.
And yes, I use the Marlin software. You can download it on GitHub: github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/tree/Marlin_v1
Personally, I see no reason to make a derivative of the printrbot with a different name. It is a printrbot with some changes, but I don't think it is enough to change the name.
wersy - in reply to gwc
Looking at it from this perspective, you are correct; although I have modified and upgraded every part of the original Printrbot.
I just wanted to make shure that there can be no mistaking my Printrbot from the original Printrbot.


I can see you put a lot of time and thought into this.  I see a fair number of parts have changed, but I'm not clear why. Could you take a moment to summarize where your improvements are on the previous design? 
wersy - in reply to rrhb
I mean I described all my thoughts very detailed. Did you read all? I'm sorry if you can't see any improvements. Maybe they are not very essential. Anyhow, the print quality is much better as I ever expected :-) 
rrhb - in reply to wersy
apologies - not meant to imply that you weren't getting great results, in fact, the opposite. There were a few places where I wasn't clear whether the change was a result of testing against the original design, trying to use parts you might have had on hand, ensuring 100% metric, experience in building other bots, etc.  Nothing substantial and indeed you documented your thoughts better than most. For instance, the switch to  z-coupler and the reference to the single M4 in the x-end-idler or the x-end motor add'l threaded hole, or separating out the y endstop from the clamp - was this because the original design had issues for you?
wersy - in reply to rrhb
Thank you for your reply. I am glad if anybody is asking for details.
No, I had no experience with 3D printing at all as I started to design. But I watched very intensive all assembly videos of abdrumm several times. Doing so I was sure what I would like to change.
Before this I studied mostly the MendelMax and Mendel90 - theoretically ;-) The only experience I have is with my own Printer now :-)
I prefer nophead's z-coupling because of the plastic hose between the motor shaft and the coupling. I think it gives a good grip makes the connection a bit elastically and allows angular movement if the rod is not straight.
The x-end-idler has no place for a second fixing screw. It would be only possible from the other side. But then the x-ends must be thicker but I want to keep the x-ends slim.
" the x-end motor add'l threaded hole" Which hole exactly you mean?
Much later I found this: thingiverse.com/thing:17986
It is only a question of time till one comes to similar thoughts.

As I planned I wasn't sure where to place the y-endstop at best.
So I made a separate endstop to mount the endstop holder  wherever I want.
Alternative Printrbot X-Ends
by Pawl
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