Stanford Bunny
Derived from
Description
Instructions
Make sure to attribute this work to the original source: Stanford! Here's what they say about sharing:
Please be sure to acknowledge the source of the data and models you take from this repository. In each of the listings below, we have cited the source of the range data and reconstructed models. You are welcome to use the data and models for research purposes. You are also welcome to mirror or redistribute them for free. Finally, you may publish images made using these models, or the images on this web site, in a scholarly article or book - as long as credit is given to the Stanford Computer Graphics Laboratory. However, such models or images are not to be used for commercial purposes, nor should they appear in a product for sale (with the exception of scholarly journals or books), without our permission.
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Hey, so I'm printing the bunny you've created on my new ToM to test it. I don't know why but it seems that my ToM first creates a square base around the design and then starts off with another base roughly a few cm larger than the bunny and only after that does it starts to the print the actual bunny.
So that means after the print I'll be left with a with bunny attached to a base, not like the bunny in the pictures. Could someone explain as to why my ToM does this?
Thanks :-D
I'm having serious printability issues. My printer is very nicely dialed in. Right about where the head is starting, it hits some stupid little line of plastic and skips by 10mm to the left. Incredibly annoying, seeing as I've probably wasted 3 bunnies worth of plastic.
I had good results printing this with quite low temperatures - 195C. At that temperature, the plastic is stiff enough that it doesn't drop too much. Also kept the ears from turning blobby. Adhesion of layers is still really good.
currently printing with support turned on... hope to have pics soon 8-)
Was that printed on a makerbot? Impressive! Any tips on tuning for overhangs? So far the things I've played with have been:
-thread sequence choice (perimeter/infill/loops etc)
-extra shells (not really successful)
-perimeter width over thickness (if skeinforge thinks the extrusion is wider than it is, it may go too far out)
-starting to play with temperature
Skeinforge manages to luck out on the ears-- it produces narrow loops which project from equally-wide layer beneath them. I'm working on some skeining ideas that will produce structures like this for all overhangs (but it's on the back burner until I get a bunch of other code done).
License

Look at what I've printed! --
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gt; Porcelain Bunny
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...
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