Stanford Bunny by phooky

Stanford Bunny

phooky

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Published on August 6, 2010

This thing was Featured on August 9, 2010

Derived from

Stanford Bunny

by archiveman

Description

A cleaned-up Stanford Bunny, with the holes in the model sealed.

Instructions

This piece has a nice, rounded base, which makes it ideal for scaling up and printing even on machines without a heated build platform or chamber. The ears are just within the limits of overhang that a makerbot can handle, so depending on your temperature settings you may get some sagging on the lower edges of the ears.

Make sure to attribute this work to the original source: Stanford! Here's what they say about sharing:

Please be sure to acknowledge the source of the data and models you take from this repository. In each of the listings below, we have cited the source of the range data and reconstructed models. You are welcome to use the data and models for research purposes. You are also welcome to mirror or redistribute them for free. Finally, you may publish images made using these models, or the images on this web site, in a scholarly article or book - as long as credit is given to the Stanford Computer Graphics Laboratory. However, such models or images are not to be used for commercial purposes, nor should they appear in a product for sale (with the exception of scholarly journals or books), without our permission.

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eranglr on July 24, 2012 said:

Look at what I've printed! --
&
gt; Porcelain Bunny

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...
&
amp;feature=relmfu

jcyin on April 12, 2011 said:

Hey, so I'm printing the bunny you've created on my new ToM to test it. I don't know why but it seems that my ToM first creates a square base around the design and then starts off with another base roughly a few cm larger than the bunny and only after that does it starts to the print the actual bunny.

So that means after the print I'll be left with a with bunny attached to a base, not like the bunny in the pictures. Could someone explain as to why my ToM does this?

Thanks :-D

OSTycoon on July 8, 2011 said:

I am assuming you have figured it out by now, but for anyone else reading this and wondering the same, that is called the raft. This helps to make your print more stable. Just cut off the base and you're good to go! :)

coasterman on February 5, 2011 said:

I'm having serious printability issues. My printer is very nicely dialed in. Right about where the head is starting, it hits some stupid little line of plastic and skips by 10mm to the left. Incredibly annoying, seeing as I've probably wasted 3 bunnies worth of plastic.

coasterman on February 5, 2011 said:

How did you get this to print without skipping?

Zydac on December 10, 2010 said:

Someone needs to invent a Chocostruder for this one!

Anonymous on January 10, 2011 said:

Frostruder. Look it up :-D

gpvillamil on August 8, 2010 said:

I had good results printing this with quite low temperatures - 195C. At that temperature, the plastic is stiff enough that it doesn't drop too much. Also kept the ears from turning blobby. Adhesion of layers is still really good.

dsralph on August 8, 2010 said:

currently printing with support turned on... hope to have pics soon 8-)

mattproc on August 7, 2010 said:

Was that printed on a makerbot? Impressive! Any tips on tuning for overhangs? So far the things I've played with have been:
-thread sequence choice (perimeter/infill/loops etc)
-extra shells (not really successful)
-perimeter width over thickness (if skeinforge thinks the extrusion is wider than it is, it may go too far out)
-starting to play with temperature

phooky on August 7, 2010 said:

(And yes, it was printed on a Cupcake.)

phooky on August 7, 2010 said:

Skeinforge manages to luck out on the ears-- it produces narrow loops which project from equally-wide layer beneath them. I'm working on some skeining ideas that will produce structures like this for all overhangs (but it's on the back burner until I get a bunch of other code done).