Blossoming Lamp
Derived from
Description
This lampshade consists of 14 interlocking pieces printed at once. When you pull up on the top, the blossom opens, allowing more light out. See the video here: youtu.be/blEgWG9V9sA
This lamp is my entry into ProtoParadigm's Winter Wonderland Contest, since when I'm struggling through a long, dark, Northwest winter, what I need is light and a reminder that the blossoms of spring will eventually arrive. I was inspired by mgxbymaterialise.com/limited-editions/mgxmodel/detail/detail/71, but I wanted to make a simpler, more organic model that wouldn't require a powder printer.
Instructions
Print the lampshade and the stand. I sliced them with Slic3r, which worked great. Make sure you have good retraction. I printed everything you see on my Replicator 1 in PLA at 120 mm/s using the Sailfish firmware. I print on unheated blue painters tape, which kept everything well adhered to the build platform.
When the lampshade is finished printing, remove it from the platform and carefully push up on the bottom center parts while pulling down on the outer ring. You may need to slice a few strings between the petals to allow them to separate. Once you get it open all the way, exercise it a few times and cut out any remaining strings. It should move quite freely.
The stand is made to accept a standard hollow, threaded rod that lamps are often mounted with (at least in the US). You just need to find a small lamp socket and cord to attach. I used a standard candelabra socket and an LED bulb. You can use anything, so long as it's less than 34mm in diameter. I recommend LEDs, since they are low power and so won't soften the plastic. However, small LED bulbs are strangely hard to find. Of course, you could always make your own.
Once you install the bulb, slip the shade down over it and press it into the stand (it's just a conical press-fit). This way you can pry the shade back off to change the bulb.
The bottom of the stand is solid so that you can pour sand in if you're worried about it tipping over. The holes in the stand are designed to encourage cooling airflow past the bulb. I'm also trying something new: I signed my name to the bottom of the stand. When my dad was a potter, he always stamped his name on the bottom of his pots, so I thought I would try the same thing. I'm interested to hear if any of you have comments on this method of attribution.
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LED candelabra bulbs can be purchased from: http://1000bulbs.com/category/...
Would you mind, sharing the leafs as single STL files. I printed the lamp but 4 leafs came out pretty bad. The rest of the print is ok. I would only need to exchange these leafs, which should be possible. I hope, they are printable individually. THX
anyone successfully get the SCAD file to render? It crashes a moment after starting the process for me. I'll try different boxes, but was just curious if this might be a known issue.
Slic3r keeps failing when setting this up. What's your infill and any other specification that'd be helpful to know! Thanks!!
This almost exactly looks and acts like the "maguar" (evil alien flowers) in the anime Figure 17.
I cant seem to print this clearly the different pieces seem to bond. The closest Ive gotten is with abs. After switching to pla im getting lots of shifts in my x axis even when printing more slowly. Does any one have sucessful settings they'd like to publish
I was able to do a successful print with PLA (love playing with the mechanism), but i got a lot of little messy spindly "hairs". and thin patches...
Ive been using skienforge 50, with sailfish. I was curious what settings/slciers/whatevs others have used with more success (i am not use to the PLA nonsense)?
How much did you guys have to simplify the model in order to get it to slice? I'm using slic3r 0.9.7 and simplifying a lot with Meshlab, but slic3r is still having trouble slicing it.
Wow, what a fabulous design, can't make to make one as a replacement for a recently broken lamp.
Brilliantly executed design! Even more so that it is a SCAD model. Since this was so directly inspired by Patrick Jouin's famous 3D printed Bloom Lamp from the Materialise MGX collection, it would be polite to credit his input. That you created and shared this is wonderful, but for us to focus entirely on the replica without mentioning the person who created the idea gives be a bad feeling.
Epic Design :) I hope to print one after getting home from Christmas vacation
this is really a awesome thingy, im slicng it right now, but it looks like it will take ages. How long did it take for you guys? slic3r 0.9.7
wow really impressive. for someone thats just getting in this is exactly what i wanted to see. love the work
I know this is a stupid question, but has anyone tried scaling down and printing on a TOM? I suspect it would be a miserable failure on my TOM, but it's such a beautiful design, I'm tempted to try...
Have you tried? I put it in my ToM's RepG, scaled to fit, and then went to look at the gcode in Pleasant3D. It looks like it will be quite a test as it makes a single flat loop out of each leaf, and I suspect that the free space between the interlocking sections in the base will not be sufficient now that it is scaled to about 70% of the original size (that is, scaling a leaf down might not be that bad but scaling down the safe distance between parts might not be).
After fixing my extruder, I printed this translucent green version, which only took 4 and a half hours (it's a bit quicker than the opaque version). My first layer was too squished, which fused all the pieces together, however it was only the first layer that was a problem. After a little bit of exacto knife work and pushing hard on the center pieces, it now moves just fine.
I'm attempting to build one with cherry laywood filament (http://www.geek.com/articles/g.... It should make a nice gift for my friend who just bought a new house. :D
I got it to print with ABS and only 2 of the top petals had pieces fail. I have the same problem with the bottom being fused together. Emmet, could you post a picture of the underside of the lamp opaque? I'm trying to figure out where I need to remove material to make it foldable. Thanks!
Sexy-lovely, as usual. Had a question or two:
I was looking at your scad code, which is always enlightening (though i think i need to go redo classes in trig/geometry to understand it), but it seems to make references to "WriteScad" folder which isn't included. Is there a place to grab that?
Is there a particular reason to use PLA? I have a fear that a hotter bulb will warp or melt PLA (plus i just have more colors in ABS).
Write.scad is the ancestor of this thing (above). I've switched to PLA from ABS because it doesn't warp like crazy, plus it doesn't stink up the house. I'd love to see if you can print it with ABS.
I'm glad you enjoy my scad. In case anyone was wondering what trig could possibly be useful for, my answer is art.
Printed in black ABS. 20% fill, 120mm/s. top and bottom took about 18 hours each. Destroyed the kapton getting the bottom off - so much surface area in contact with the platform! Top was easier (the opaque file) to get off, only a little kapton scuffs. The thing looks beautiful! But, the bottom of the petals seem to be fused together and won't open. Trying some careful work with a x-acto knife, but no luck yet.
I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, but RepG says the lamp is too big to build.
Same here, but it worked fine. It looks like it's extremely close.
Hmm, it does pretty much max out the height on a Rep1. You could either tweak the machines.xml file or scale the object to 99% or something. I use Repetier-host now, and only use RepG to convert Gcode to s3g.
I'm ordering some PLA now. I've never bought plastic for a specific print before. Awesome design. Even more impressive in scad.
This begs for a switch that will shut the light when closed an open it when opened.
This is awesome.
The source is missing this, for the text in OpenSCAD:
font="../WriteScad/orbitron.dxf"
Emmett, that's absolutely amazing!
It took an hour to slice the translucent shade using ReplicatorG, but I'm now running a print right now in silver. (it would be intentionally dim, as I'm hoping to keep it lit on my desk at work)
What version of Slic3r did you use? I am no getting a connection between the stem and the leaves: Slic3r does a perimeter around the stem and then goes back and attaches the leaves, but it ends up leaving a space between, causing it to break off.
Im thinking add an arduino and a servo, have this sucker open and close in time with the sun :D
LOL - you are simply going to *make* me build a printer with a taller build volume than the Prusa I've got now!
This is amazing! I'm going to try to print the 'opaque' one at 210 mm/s using clear PLA, to see how it comes out. Should be very Xmass-y!
It would seem that brilliant and progressive work is par for the course for you. So amazing!
As far as the attribution name stamp I think the name on the bottom is a good way to go. I know Dizingof did the same thing on at least one of his submissions.
License
Having only a single Extruder Rep2, I was wondering whether anyone has experimented with making the various parts separately in different colors and assembling them? Perhaps at different amounts of infill, perhaps higher on the base ring and lower on the leaves.... Any Thoughts?
It wasn't designed to assemble or disassemble, so that will be difficult unless you modify it. Infill has very little effect (most of the strength comes from the shells), so I doubt you'd gain much by adjusting it.