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Uniform and scalable reduction gear (1:256)

by mattheus, published

Uniform and scalable reduction gear (1:256) by mattheus Dec 21, 2012

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Description

Reductor that done from identical gears 1:4 each (uniform) and can be setup with as many gears in sequence as you need (scalable) to get ratio and torque that you need. On images reductor done from 4 gears and has ration 1:256, but you can easy install more/less gears to each of two reductor axes to have ratio that you need. There also included fram for gears system with holder for motor.

Recent Comments

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That's the wrong attitude that this community needs. Also a lot of people use things like Pronterface on a minimum spec netbook. Flipping, rotating, etc would require another piece of software. It's better just to properly orient your parts before uploading them. If 10,000 people download and print your design, and you save them 30 seconds each, you've just saved 83 hours of lost time.
thantik: This read very often, in my opinion, a man who can not orient himself before printing model, has nothing to do with the printer, it is an embarrassment and should consider something else. If you do not print the way it is oriented, let's fuck and fuck with, noob.
You are right, looks like most details should be printed with flipped Y-Z planes. I thought it is evident that details should be printed with flat plane on bottom. I use Cura for my Ultimaker and I can flip them correct there, but will try to change orientation of details in future.

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Instructions

Print as many gears 1:4 as you need (file "Gear 10-to-40.STL"). Then print 1 (or two if you want to make it symmetrical) detail "Motor Holder (Opposite).STL" - this will makes frame (you can also adjust and print detail "Motor Holder (Top).STL" as opposite side of frame). Use bolts M4 to connect frames with gears inside. First gear put just on frame, before putting second gear print detail "Motor Holder (Rail) 7 mm.STL" and install it on bolt M4 first (it will makes correct shift in height before second gear). Then put all other gears you want and finally put one more detail "Motor Holder (Rail) 7 mm.STL".

Frame has 3 holes to connect frame parts outside gears axes - print 3 details "Motor Holder (Rail) 37 mm.STL" (for 4 gears 37 mm will be just fine, if you use other number of gears you can adjust height in file "Motor Holder (Rail).SLDPRT" taking in mind that every gear is 12 mm height) and install them into remaining 3 holes of frame.

I also attached sample holder for motor that I have (28 mm diameter) and adapter that makes possible install first gear with 12 tooth (small one on images). Probably you'll need to adjust those details according to motor you have (you can do it in files "Motor Holder (Top).SLDPRT", "Motor Gear Connector (Sliced) - 2.SLDPRT" and "Metric - Spur gear 2M 12T 20PA 12FW ---S12N75H50L5N.sldprt"). I also attached sample small gear with 10 tooths (file "Metric - Spur gear 2M 10T 20PA 7FW ---S10N75H50L5N.stl").

Note: if you want to print directly from .STL file you'll need to flip Y-Z planes for some details to place them correct on printing table.

Good luck ;)

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The way you have some of these parts oriented would be unprintable. Remember that just because you might use a host software that can flip them the correct way, not everyone does. Maybe you could rotate them so they print in the proper orientation so _every_ person interested doesn't have to post-process in order to get them to work?
thantik: This read very often, in my opinion, a man who can not orient himself before printing model, has nothing to do with the printer, it is an embarrassment and should consider something else. If you do not print the way it is oriented, let's fuck and fuck with, noob.
That's the wrong attitude that this community needs. Also a lot of people use things like Pronterface on a minimum spec netbook. Flipping, rotating, etc would require another piece of software. It's better just to properly orient your parts before uploading them. If 10,000 people download and print your design, and you save them 30 seconds each, you've just saved 83 hours of lost time.
You are right, looks like most details should be printed with flipped Y-Z planes. I thought it is evident that details should be printed with flat plane on bottom. I use Cura for my Ultimaker and I can flip them correct there, but will try to change orientation of details in future.
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