Interactive Build Plate Levelling - Print Aid
by whpthomas, published
UPDATE Jan 19 2013
I have uploaded a new shape to try which provides an area over each level adjuster.
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Wow, what a shock it was to go from - "ohhh, I want a 3d printer" to "For F**** Sake - will this thing ever print right!". I have owned my Replicator2 for a week, a looooooong week. I assumed we were past an alpha product but after my vain attempt to print a complicated object out of the box I had a quick smack to the face about where the technology is at. So I reverted to my software engineering background and since my first print I have yet to print anything other than the damn calibration objects like this as I want to understand the tool. Well actually once I got the test prints close I then printed your downward blower, and clip for a dial indicator - which went well and I am expecting the dial indicator in a couple of days.
My problems are many - but mainly:
1. If the files are generated by Makerware and installed on the SD card the print is acceptable - but not great.
2. If the files are generated by ReplicatorG using your Gcode files - it wont print at all and usually ends up in a tangle of plastic around the nozzle
3. I have managed to get it to print with White PLA but I have a batch of Red PLA that for love nor money wont print the calibration files but I tried the Spring Footings in this color and it printed perfectly (I have digital calipers on the way as well)
I have a new Rep2 with the new extruder.
I have tried using your 200Micron Gcode files and your Gcode specific to the Calibration files
My settings in RepG have been as follows:
Object infill: 0%
Layer Height: .2mm
Number of Shells: 1
Travel Feedrate: 120
Print Temp: 230
I am printing on the frosted side of an acrylic plate and used a .1 mm feeler gauge with the stock plate leveling program.
I know now I am at the bottom of a near verticle learning curve - any additional help is appreciated
Makerware was updated to print diagonaly. It used to be side to side and front to back before,
You can either create a custom Skeinforge profile where you go back to side-to-side, or try another slicer allogether.
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Run your bed levelling procedure, then run this print. I wait until the perimeter has been printed and as the extruder starts doing long strokes. Starting at the back, I adjust each levelling screw, one at a time.
The procedure for each level adjuster is as follows: lower the build plate by adjusting the level adjustor (on the Replicator 2 this is done by tightening). Do this until you start getting stringy strands of filament, then gradually raise the build plate (on the Replicator 2 this is done by loosening). Do this until you get a nice even finish. As the extruder fill pattern approaches the sides, adjust each side accordingly.
You should aim to get a consistent flush surface with no gaps, and minimal bumps. The beads of filament in the infill should also be firmly bonded to each other so you can't tear them apart easily.
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