Interactive Build Plate Levelling - Print Aid
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Description
UPDATE Jan 19 2013
I have uploaded a new shape to try which provides an area over each level adjuster.
Instructions
Run your bed levelling procedure, then run this print. I wait until the perimeter has been printed and as the extruder starts doing long strokes. Starting at the back, I adjust each levelling screw, one at a time.
The procedure for each level adjuster is as follows: lower the build plate by adjusting the level adjustor (on the Replicator 2 this is done by tightening). Do this until you start getting stringy strands of filament, then gradually raise the build plate (on the Replicator 2 this is done by loosening). Do this until you get a nice even finish. As the extruder fill pattern approaches the sides, adjust each side accordingly.
You should aim to get a consistent flush surface with no gaps, and minimal bumps. The beads of filament in the infill should also be firmly bonded to each other so you can't tear them apart easily.
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this design rocks, thanks so much, it's resolved a number of my problems.
Perfectly printed at 0.27mm resolution with MakerWare and ReplicatorG. 0.1mm is another story altogether. Comes out threaded and clumpy, some parts refuse to stick to the build plate, with tape and without.
I recently had a problem with the first layer having a surface, rough like sand paper with wave patterns, I thought I would give this a go, & now their real smooth. It really does work! Thanks!
Used this and my prints so far are MUCH improved. On the circular print it sounded like the extruder was rubbing low in spots (an added plate vibration) but the print thickness seems fine in those areas. Also had a few "tears" in spots. Any idea what causes that? The areas around the open spot seemed okay so I'm not sure what it is.
The extruder is essentially smearing a layer of plastic against the build plate, and leaves a wake of plastic on either side of the nozzle. This causes the little ridges that you hear it rubbing against. As long as these aren't to excessive, I wouldn't worry about it. Seems like its better to get a nice surface finish on the underside than worry too much about the ridgers that are going to be printed on by the next layer.
The tears can be caused by a number of things. Lack of adhesion, greasy finger marks, to little plastic being extruded, too much plastic, nozzle offset gap too large, gap too small, warped build plate etc. As long as most of the print area is in that "just right" zone then I wouldn't worry too much.
So, do you prefer 2093 tape to 2090?
+1 Whpthomas! I went thru a blue tape phase. And a glass plate phase. I'm back to standard acrylic plate. Wipe with isopropyl Alcohol when i need prints to stick more. Once I got a handle on leveling (tramming) things got a lot better.
I really do not like blue tape much at all. These days I just use the acrylic build plate, with a dab of olive oil polished with a tissue into a thin film. Work pieces stick and release much better.
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Importing this directly into MakerWare and printing it with Medium settings and .2mm, 0 infill, 2 shell, it prints from side-to-side, not front-to-back like in the picture above. I guess I'll switch to ReplicatorG, but wanted to bring that to your attention.
I wonder if it's important that it gives you 2 layers one in each direction?
I never knew my nozzle was way too close; that's just how i interpreted "some friction."