Prusa i3 Improved for laser cut
by twelvepro, published
Using CAD software we reworked Prusa i3 design:
- Laser cut frame was stiffen by adding two angle members connected to the rear side of Y axis assembly.
- Original, printed Z Axis mounting parts proven to be easy to break, which is why we replaced them with stronger laser cut parts.
- We did not like loose ends on Z Axis lead screw (similar to Printrbot design), therefore we added miniature flanged ball bearing on each side, to support lead screws on the top.
- All printed plastic parts were slightly changed, we felt that we should give them additional strength and better cosmetic appearance.
- Y axis assembly can be removed and installed back in a minute. Convenient for transportation or shipment.
- Dimensions and axis travels of original Prusa i3 preserved.
Test print here:
More Pictures here:
Recent Commentsview all
Hi. Great design !
I am wondering to do or buy one, but why did you use metric and imperial ? Could we use only metric ?
I would suggest use nylon luck nut instead of regular nut. When you mount heated bed, you should use springs (1 for each corner). Some heated beds are bended from corners to the center, then best choice would be a glass on top of it.
Just curious. Has anyone else noticed, or experienced issues with a potential flaw with this, and most i3 variations (seemingly including the original). Where the y-bed attaches to the main frame, there's nothing really holding it in. The bed simply sits in the two grooves for the threaded rods.
If your surface isn't absolutely perfect, you'll never get a flat bed. Really those groves in the frame need changing for simple holes. That way even if one corner wasn't level, it shouldn't cause so much of an issue as right now the bed will just sit slightly higher up thanks to the groove.
You can tighten bolts on either side of the groove as much as you like, however having only been using my new i3 for a few weeks have had to re-tighten them twice, and found minor variations in bed level each time.
Curious to know if anyone else has mentioned this issue, and if there is in face a better way of keeping the bed firmly attached to the main frame. Maybe some sort of extra (printed) mounts that attach under the bed?
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Smoth Rods (8mm)
X-Axis: 2 x 15"
Y-Axis: 2 x 16"
Z-Axis: 2 x 12.5"
* If you purchase 36" (1M) smoth rods, you will need 3 of them
3 x 8.5"
1 x 12"
2 x 17.5" (18")
* it will take total 2 x 36" (1m)
5 mm for Z- Axis: 2 x 12"
We stil working on instructions and complete BOM.
Kit available for purchase.
Happy New Year to all!!!
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