Hello, what extruder are you using?, Where did you find it?

at this moment is the buddasch and x-carriage compatibles?

Just to help the next guy I am posting here that this latest files X-Carriage and buddasch they are not compatible. Holes do not match, and some other problems. Do not waste your time printing them.

the stl files are missing the extruder/hot end carriage!!

i bought these plastic parts on ebay, but your stl files are missing a part. wheres the hot end/extruder mount to lm8uu printed part?

would it be possible to cut this with a cnc? My friend only has a cnc router.

Are the i2 parts useable to make the i3? i.o. can I upgrade?

Where are X-carriage file?

GOOD JOB, I LOVE IT!!!!

These are ALL source files representing current stage of development, which is - without extruder. We were going to complete it with extruder and publish it, but since you demanded it with uppercase - here they are.

For assembly instructions, please consult with https://github.com/josefprusa/...
Attached photos and CG images might help as visual clues.

Assembly diagrams and instructions will be published as soon as they are ready.

BOM has all you need, except for extruder parts. All parts numbers are included.
Shaft and threaded rod are given with their exact length in millimetres.

BOM is not structured by assembly, just raw data exported by CAD software.

Thickness of material for laser cut frame - 0.25" or 6mm. You can probably use 0.22" as well.

Good luck building!

We will publish more as soon as have something else to share.
We are open for questions or suggestions.

I've paid, I've gotten less than what I expected quality laser cut parts and need the DXF files to get the parts re-cut properly. How do I escalate this under the GPL?

PLEASE RELEASE THE FILES!

I'm not kidding around here: where are the laser cut files for the laser cut kit I purchased? Apparently, as with the printed parts I bought, I need to have the parts re-made and need the files to do so. You appear to have alignment issues with your laser cutter as dims don't match from hole to hole and hole placement is off so parts don't fit cleanly.
I like the design but need it cut by someone that has their laser dialed in correctly (MakerFarm).

Alex is out of reach at the moment and I could not take over this thing, however, I posted all necessary STL files here:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Twelvepro will eventually repost STLs here as well as BOM and DXFs. Eventually means - when we feel like we are ready to post them, not when you guys feel like we need to. Don't push.

I used Buy it Now on eBay and thus paid full price for both a laser cut MDF set and a printed parts set. Under the GPL I am entitled to the design files.

I've asked nicely by email and now I am asking publicly.

I want the files for the parts I have. I am over joyed you all are continuing to refine the design but the moment you took my money you hit Rev X. You are supposed to be able to give me Rev X to match the parts I have.

Use thing

http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

To fix Z Shafts on the top.

I've printed all posted files and compared them to Twelvepro's parts. Twelvepro really needs to work on dialing in their 3D printer. I hope that doesn't mean I'm going to be working hard to get this Prusa i3 working well after I struggle to finish it. :-(

I would appreciate it if you all would post the rest of the files so I can print them properly as well. (and I get ready to rebuild this baby one more time...)

Pictures are up on Twitter.

Diamond Age calls it Banana, I call it Sunshine! I love this PLA!

Two last feedbacks before bed... the Y belt clamp has some serious bite to it. I'm very convinced one wouldn't even need tie wraps. That said, you can't tension the belt once it's in the clamp. You have to pull the belt back out and force it back in. Maintaining tension whilst forcing the belt sideways into the clamp is, ummm: challenging.

I was hoping to use the third hole in an RRD MK2A hot bed. Have you all thought about moving the horizontal bars out closer to the edge so a "third hole" for a three hole bed level could be popped in? You could still leave in the normal four holes and add the third hole.

Almost forgot to mention...

You might want to check the dim's on the 5mm bearing on both of the top laser cut pieces. One 5mm bearing went in nice and snug, the other went in loose, not sloppy loose but not snug either.

And religious holy wars aside: the constrained Z threaded rods work damn well so far. So if I'm going to hell for tying them down I'm going there on biscuit wheels baby!

I would also love to hear about what nuts I need to be using for the Z threaded rods on the X ends... I've cobbled that together for now as well.

Looks great I'm excited. I can't wait for the laser cut files. My laser cutter is begging to get started on building one. I just finished the Prusa Air 2 and I have no problem gutting it for some parts to build this out.

Well good news and bad news on the X end motor. You can see the pictures on my Twitter (scotty1024). Part printed great and bonded very well with Diamond Age Banana on my PrintrBot Jr (my current top dog print quality 3D printer).

Which means the bad news is Alex needs to buy a PrintrBot Jr. :-)

Actually I suspect Alex didn't use the official Prusa i3 parts extrusion settings: .3mm layer height and 220% extrusion width. From my experience those are pretty unusual settings.

The bad news for me? I guess I've gotta rebuild this thing one more time. :-)

I don't know if it was Twelvepro's printing or inherent to the design but the outer side of the diamond pattern, right there at the peak of the diamond broke in the X end motor part Twelvepro sent me. The X carriage parts in general made many creaks and pops when inserting the rods so I'm not 100% convinced they were bonded well.

Now that I have the STL I will have to try printing my own X motor end and see how well my PrintrBot Jr bonds it.

The belt clamp is missing for the X carriage and is not compatible with the original Prusa i3 clamp. I purchased and Express Mailed a printed parts kit and didn't get the needed clamp either. :-(

Also, their laser cut Y carriage is incompatible with Prusa i3 Y belt clip. Fortunately they included that part but it is NOT posted here. The Prusa i3 part has 3 screw holes in a T pattern and their new part has two inline holes. Completely incompatible.

I am using #10 x 24 threaded rod. I bought a 24" piece at Home Depot and they sawed it in half for me (they were also sawing up 3 36" rods for a Rostock mini).

However the only #10 nut Home Depot had is not fitting in their nut trap. :-(

I have mine up and moving with X Y and Z calibrated but am puzzling over extruder options. I am sure Prusa is patting himself on the back but as far as I can tell his new removable extruder plate is a complete pain in the ass.

More Pictures can be found here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/3...

Laser cut DXF files, all STLs and BOM for this adaptation will be released as soon as we finalize all changes based on feedback from users. We are also working on our adaptation of Joseph Prusa PG35L extruder which will be part of this design. So, as soon as we ready, you guys will get it. Our work was based on open source hardware and it is open source hardware.

While not constraining Z axis lead screw certainly makes
sense in many cases, in this particular design it does not introduce any measurable
or noticeable wobbling or undesired shift between layers. Lead screw is
relatively thin and flexible (M5) while Z axis shafts mounted on the frame are
quite rigid. That is why I decided to introduce an option to constraint it on
the top with flanged MF105ZZ ball bearing, which makes, in my opinion, slightly
cleaner design (I am working with twelvero on this Prusa i3 adaptation). Those
of you guys, who does not like constrained Z axis may just not install ball
bearing on the top. Rigidity of the
frame in this particular design
contributes much to the printing quality, and that was determined by our
tests, while Z axis lead screws are not really an issue at all. But like I
said, there is no point for holly war, just don’t install ball bearing on the
top, if that is what you don’t like.

Happy New Year to everybody!

just bought this design from you am eager to try it out, will post and let eveyone know how it works

FYI I'm in the last stages of getting my own laser cut files out there for the i3 frame. When complete, I will release them both on Github and Thingiverse. I'm working with the SeeMeCNC guys on it.

Currently I have mods made for 3/8" acrylic and I'll release one for wood like the Twelvepro one soon. My version uses Josef Prusa's exact same frame.dxf and just adds laser cut slots and screw holes and adds two additional triangular braces for rigidity for more flexible material like wood and acrylic which tie into the back y-axis threaded rod (similar to the Twelvepro ones). All existing i3 parts on Prusa's git repository will work just fine with it:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/s...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/s...

One comment: the z-axis mounting parts were too weak??? I printed mine at 240C, 3 shells, 40% infill in black ABS and they're not weak at all. Color me confused!

Actually, for those of you worried about constrained z screws, you can fix them as long as the captured nuts are not tightly captured. The smooth rods will keep the z axis in place.

Holy crap have you guys learned nothing? Do _not_ constrain the Z threaded rods! They are loose for a reason!

where are lasercut files?

Somehow it reminds me to the Mendel90 ;-)

Happy new year to you as well!
Please reconsider your fixed Z leadscrews. It may look less nice, but you will get Z-wobble if you over-constrain them like you do. The thing you need to realise is that all leadscrews (and couplers!)are bent slightly. Clamping them at two points leaves room for the leadscrew to move in XY. If you don't, this XY movement will translate in a XY force on the XZ carriage, leaving a small wobble in your prints.

Also: threaded rod is not a good material for leadscrews: it has too little pitch (so fast Z movement becomes impossible) and the nut will fail within a years time.