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Printrbot LC Z Stop Dial

by Eckerput, published

Printrbot LC Z Stop Dial by Eckerput Jan 3, 2013

Description

If you constantly tweak the z stop on your printrbot, this dial will keep you from needing a screwdriver and help you keep track of your changes.

Recent Comments

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The "customize" parametric model didn't work for me - it left an open space in the knob part and then started extruding the shaft into thin air after some number of layers. I had increased the knob thickness and shaft length. (This sounds dirty as I read it....)
Nice. It would be nice not to have it wobble so much. Any idea if this will fit an LC? You have LC+ if I recall.
I put an optical stop on my Printrbot. with that I really needed to hold the Z stop bolt better as any wiggle causes the optical stop to change. so i made this thing: thingiverse.com/thing:49208 . I have a micrometer head coming that will replace the knob so that I can precisely adjust the Z stop length have a graduated reading of its position.

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Instructions

Use one of the premade STLs, or use the customizer function to create your desired knob style. Note, a 65mm length is good for a stock Printrbot. Use 80mm if you have added Brook's three point bed leveler.

I printed the stl using normal 40% infill. You will probably need cooling as the long shaft prints fast. While the print is printing, cut the head off of a 2 inch 6-32 screw. Once printed, insert the cut end of the screw into the hollow end of the knob. You may be able to just screw it in with pliers, or you may need to drill it out a bit, or glue in the screw depending on your print quality. You can remove and replace the existing 6-32 z stop screw with your new one. I find it helpful to mark the top with a Sharpie so I know how far I turn it. From my calculations, each revolution of the knob should move the z axis stop about 0.79 mm.

Update: added a second version with a thicker knurled knob if that fit's your design better.
Update: Per Michele31415's concept a dial with a pointer has been added.
The "customize" parametric model didn't work for me - it left an open space in the knob part and then started extruding the shaft into thin air after some number of layers. I had increased the knob thickness and shaft length. (This sounds dirty as I read it....)
I put an optical stop on my Printrbot. with that I really needed to hold the Z stop bolt better as any wiggle causes the optical stop to change. so i made this thing: thingiverse.com/thing:49208 . I have a micrometer head coming that will replace the knob so that I can precisely adjust the Z stop length have a graduated reading of its position.
Nice. It would be nice not to have it wobble so much. Any idea if this will fit an LC? You have LC+ if I recall.
Brilliant! Every Printrbot should come with one of these. I liked the idea of a pointer so I did a little mod to add one to the knob itself, thusly:

union() // Join the knob and the pointer together.
{
cylinder(h=3,r=10) ; // Make the knob.
// Add the pointer to the knob:
translate([0, 10, 0]) triangle_prism (2, 4) ;
}
I tried to emboss an arrow in my first design but it all smeared together and looked bad so I removed it. I like your mod much better. Do you mind if I add it to the design?
By all means - I'd be honored.
I love your knob! I've added it to my spring loaded Z stop bolt set up. I was going to print a plate that would centre a screw driver down to the screw. glad i didn't bother because your knob is a better solution!
Cool ideas. I've added an updated STL with a knurled knob and 2x thicker. I like mine thin and simple so I haven't made it. Let me know if it works.
Guess I'm not the only one who had trouble setting the z stop.
Yeah, I'm messing with mine quite a bit right now. I suspect I'll settle on a point eventually.
I think that the design of that glued part makes the z stop point quite unstable. I could be wrong, but that is my theory. I have been having difficulties similar to you too.
Mine is pretty stable generally unless I mess with my bed (generally due to a print sticking too good or putting new tape on) and then it takes a few false starts to get it dialed in perfectly again. I've taken to adjujsting it by eye instead of the paper technique which is working good now that I have the dial. Generally it just takes 1/4 to 1/2 turn one way or the other to get it working great again.
I think that the paper trick was just for people that didn't really know what to look for in a first layer when they first got their printer. Your description of what you have to do sounds exactly like what I have to do.

Your thing is a great idea. I just had an idea that instead of cutting off the screw head you could put it into the hole (on the x carriage) backwards and then screw the plastic part on top. I might try it when I get back from holiday.
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