by Spacexula, published

Brutstruder by Spacexula Sep 9, 2010

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My design goal for this extruder was an extremely reliable, no compromise, extruder for the Makerbot, that builds on all the most successful ideas currently available in thermoplastic extrusion. At the same time I wanted an extruder that could easily be printed on a Makerbot build plate with a as large a raft as possible to allow those who do not have a heated build plate to print it easily.

Brutstruder is a hybrid of many successful current extruders. It get's its idler wheel from the Wades Extruder thingiverse.com/thing:1794, and the drive gear from the Mk5 Plastruder thingiverse.com/thing:3290">. It also get's a viewport from the Printruder II - Rear Breech Loading thingiverse.com/thing:3178, it's Electronics board holder from the Prinstruder II thingiverse.com/thing:1980, and it's legs are 2 of the DINO2 from Zaggo's Printable extruder holder thingiverse.com/thing:1912.

This design has been endurance tested in multiple ways.

I made the extruder lift 27 lb of water (this was before adding a 4th spring, and going to harder spring, no telling what it would lift now).
I fed it 3d Ink Plastic only throughout testing.
I have printed 36 hours straight with this extruder at this time with 0 failures.
I also fed it 1/8 inch ABS welding rods from the local welding shop.

Now you see why I call it Brut.

Recent Comments

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Could this be adapted to 1.75mm plastic?

Thanks a lot for this great design.

I swapped my MK4 for your brutsruder and I love it!!


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Brutstruder by Spacexula is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

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Detailed instructions for Brustruter will be over at the Reprap Wiki. reprap.org/wiki/Brutstruder

First print the Idler, and the Makerbot block, attach your motor with the Mk5 drive gear on it (the gear will be tight, and the grub screw will eat out a track for itself as it spins. Spin it 2-3 times to grind a track before assembly). Once the drive gear is attached use 2 25mm m3 screws to attach the Kysan gearmotor to the block. Place your 606 bearing firmly in the hole provided.

To attach the idler, you will use 4 50mm m4 screws (the same as a Wades Extruder), the order of assembly is bolt, 1 washer, idler RP, 1 washer, 1 15mm spring (the harder the better), and a 3rd washer. Thread the m4 bolt into the block and secure them to the m4 nut on the other side.

Just screw the hot end into the block and secure it to the 2 captive m3 nuts.

The mounting legs for this extruder are Zaggo\\\'s thingiverse.com/thing:1912, but just print 2 sets of his Dino 2 legs.


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garthk on Jun 22, 2011 said:

Could this be adapted to 1.75mm plastic?

Mothra78 on Jun 17, 2011 said:

Thanks a lot for this great design.

I swapped my MK4 for your brutsruder and I love it!!

Anonymous on Dec 7, 2010 said:

tried to run more of the 3dink "plastic" through the brutstruder after printing with makerbot plastic and it failed within 15 seconds of putting down a raft (it hit a spot in the plastic and the mk5 gear started spinning, plastic stopped getting extruded). i was able to print a huge flawless keypad case with the brutstruder and makerbot plastic. easily a 2.5+hour print and 90x90+ size. I will try another roll of it (i got 3 total) i really wish i knew the trick to get this junk to work. i can literally print for 30 hours straight with makerbot plastic with no issues with the brutstruder or printruder2... i cant figure out what is wrong.

Spacexula on Dec 7, 2010 said:

How hard are your springs, for 3d ink I have to have it really tight.

Also what diameter thermal barrier you using? Makergear stuff usually can take 3d ink stuff like a charm..

Da3v on Dec 5, 2010 said:

So far, liking it a LOT!

I'm printing in PLA (mostly successful, but with a few dropped patches) and I'm trying to sort out whether I have an under-performing power supply, some sort of freaky voodoo emf noise, or over-tightened springs. Are there any clear clues to indicate, "um, yeah, those springs are cranked waaay to
o tight..."

beak90 on Nov 16, 2010 said:

What springs are you using? I'm about to order some stuff of off McMaster so I might as well add the springs to my order and upgrade my extruder. I don't want to use springs that won't work well so if I could get some pressure range that would be good for the extruder.

Spacexula on Nov 16, 2010 said:


Same as a Wades, you will need 4 of them

Misguided on Nov 6, 2010 said:

My idler wheel cracked and I managed to patch it up just enough to print out the Brutstruder and mounts. It's working excellently. I don't have springs however, just tightened the M4 screws against a 2mm metal rod.

Spacexula on Nov 6, 2010 said:

Wow, it works without the springs? I would not have thought that, bet it makes it easier to load filiment also...

woofpickle on Oct 20, 2010 said:

Has anyone tried PLA with this extruder yet? I'd be worried that it would pinch it in half!

Spacexula on Oct 20, 2010 said:

Rick (Makergear) has done a lot of testing with PLA and found no issues.

Anonymous on Oct 14, 2010 said:

Does this mount directly to the Mendel? Or do we need an adapter, if so, is there one on thingiverse?

Spacexula on Oct 14, 2010 said:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... Mount

http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... Use this version, it's smaller and made for RepRap

Have fun, let me know if you have any issues!

JohnA on Sep 13, 2010 said:

Printed one and cleaned it up (took a bit of work) and then realized my X axis was inverted, and the part is backward. Printing a new one now. I wonder if I could use the stock makerbot idler wheel bolt....

Spacexula on Sep 13, 2010 said:

Absolutley, that was by design.

You can reuse what you have. The only new thing you need 2_m3 35mm. The rest are parts took from your Plastruder Mk4.

merlinjim on Sep 10, 2010 said:

Congrats on finally posting this mate!

It really is compact... further miniaturisation may not be possible! It's time the community gets working on a shorter hot end lol!

Any ideas on reducing the vitamin count?

Spacexula on Sep 10, 2010 said:

Ohh yes, something fun is on it's way http://www.makergear.com/blogs... We are going to need new legs :)

Ohh I could take the chafer to this design and get rid of 1cc worth of plastic, but I think your right, we are approaching the limit of the material, which is a good thing.

Vitimin count?:

2 m3_25mm
2 m3_50mm
2 m3 washers
4 m4_45
4 m4 nuts
4 10-15 (depending on how hard, harder the better) spr
mk5 worm gear or the brass knockoff off ebay
Hot end of choice

I think this is the lowest vitimen count of any extruder also.

Jeremydeath on Sep 10, 2010 said:

Very cool. It looks like it would work great for plastic that varies in diameter a little bit like the stuff from 3D ink. I think that I'll try it out while I'm saving up for the $120+ for the steppers from kysan and other parts for Wade's extruder for makerbot.

Spacexula on Sep 13, 2010 said:

This was pretty much designed for people who want to run Makerbot firmware on RepRap, or people who are having troubles with their mk4.

Wade on Sep 9, 2010 said:

Nice work, I like it. These DC gearmotors are still open loop though, right? Do you find you need to re-calibrate them over time, or is it still the case where if you run it at full power the speed is fairly constant?

Anonymous on Sep 10, 2010 said:

Never had to recalibrate, and never heard of anyone doing that at all. Most people run it full out at 255, becasue at any lower speed it becomes problematic.