Loading

4d-Staunton Full Size Chess Set

by PerryT, published

4d-Staunton Full Size Chess Set by PerryT Jan 7, 2013

Description

This is a FULL size Traditional Staunton Chess set designed by 4dCadCam.com
My interpretation of one anyway!
Including a Board. The STL files are very high res which is why they are large. Worth the download. I experimented with lower res output and was not satisfied. I like "VERY Smooth" surfaces. :)

Recent Comments

view all

Sorry, answered my own question in the instructions. Doh!

I printed out the king and knight at 100 microns on my Rep 2. Very nice. Sadly the sd card had a glitch when the cross was being printed on the king, so only half a cross was printed.

I assume the hollow area under the piece is for weighting it. Any suggestions on what to use for weight? Clay, lead weights, etc?

Thanx for uploading your PRO design! I changed the original chess pieces but the board is sick!
Thanks again!!

More from Chess

view more

Liked By

view all

Tags

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag. Print Thing Tag

Instructions

Print with or without raft, it’s your choice, whatever works for your machine.
This is a real project to print the entire set.
I designed this for my father as a gift (he is a Chess master) and decided to share it when finished because it came out so well.
All Photos are from the first one I printed on a Makerbot Replicator.
30 hours for the pieces and another 35 hours for the board. Half a spool of material for each color.
The base of each Chess piece is hollow so you can weight it if you would like. I hot glued lead shot in each one and put a felt pad on the bottom of each piece.
The Board is constructed in two sections. There is a base (jigsaw puzzle) consisting of 3 separate pieces. Center, Side and Corner. You need to print 4 corners, 8 Sides and 4 centers. They will snap together very tightly, I designed it that way. The board has 2” squares.
The “Squares” , you will need to print 32 of each color and either just lay them in place or bond them in place with a solvent or adhesive to make the board permanent.
I have also included a countersunk hole in the center of each piece so you can screw it down to a decorative board or whatever you would like.
Since I printed mine from ABS I just coated the bottom and sides of each piece with pure “ACETONE” and bonded in place. I also boded the base just to make it more rigid.
But you do not have to do this

Good luck….
Let me know if anyone has any recommendations or complaints or... whatever.. :)
And as always, please post pics of your finished project if you print any of this.

PerryT
4dCadCam.com

Comments

You must be logged in to post a comment.

AXORiON on Jun 25, 2014 said:

I printed out the king and knight at 100 microns on my Rep 2. Very nice. Sadly the sd card had a glitch when the cross was being printed on the king, so only half a cross was printed.

I assume the hollow area under the piece is for weighting it. Any suggestions on what to use for weight? Clay, lead weights, etc?

AXORiON on Jun 25, 2014 said:

Sorry, answered my own question in the instructions. Doh!

AminG on Mar 31, 2014 said:

Thanx for uploading your PRO design! I changed the original chess pieces but the board is sick!
Thanks again!!

n1cod3mus on Dec 10, 2013 said:

ok I struggled with this one to get a clean print, kept getting holes in the tops of the pieces, after some experimenting here are the settings I used

the pieces
--------------

material: PLA

Layer: 0.1mm

Shells : 3

Infill : 30%

Extruder temp: 195 degrees C

Bed Temp : 80 Degrees C

Speed while extruding: 60 mm/s

Speed while traveling 150 mm/s

Squares
-----------

material: PLA

Layer: 0.1mm

Shells : 4

Infill : 40%

Extruder temp: 195 degrees C

Bed Temp : 80 Degrees C

Speed while extruding: 60 mm/s

Speed while traveling 150 mm/s

n1cod3mus on Dec 10, 2013 said:

oh and I am using a Wanhao Dupicator 4 with duel extruders and ReplicatorG

chall2009 on Oct 22, 2013 said:

Where are the files for the box for the pieces?

PerryT on Oct 23, 2013 said:

I designed the box after i uploaded my original Chess set design that is why they are not all together. I could have added it... maybe i will in the future.... Here is the link to download the box... Hope you enjoy!

http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

PerryT on Sep 5, 2013 said:

NO.... i have not received anything.... i went through my junk mail too.
try this.
mailto:[email protected]

[email protected]

a lot of people type .com out of habbit... make sure it is .net

mentalfaith on Aug 28, 2013 said:

Hi PerryT, this is quite an awesome design. I am using a solidoodle instead and I have printed the rook and queen as my first two test piece at 1.5 resolution (about 3hours 15min for the queen =p) however I printed them with support material and I'm having difficulty getting a smooth finish due to stubs after removing the support material. Do you have any suggestion on how I can smooth the surface?

PerryT on Aug 28, 2013 said:

Yes,
they are uploaded in very high resolutions... hence the file sizes... its funny, some have complained about that.
just print WITHOUT support and you should be fine. I can put out some ULTRA hight res stl's if you would like but what i have uploaded is almost as smooth as glass.

Apofus67 on Aug 12, 2013 said:

Perry, thanks for sharing such an awesome creation!
I have printed most of the pieces now and they all look awesome!
Now though i am experiencing a bit of a problem with the board, every time I print one of the squares on my Mbot Rep2 it prints missing many of the sides of the hexagonal pattern on the top, any idea why this would happen? I have tried just about everything I can think of to get an accurate print (changing temp, speed extruding/travelling, slicer, infill, shells) and every print results with the same missing bits, I am beginning to believe it a problem with either the x3g file created or the interpretation of the x3g file by the Mbot Rep2..

PerryT on Aug 12, 2013 said:

You are very welcome. I am sorry that you are having problems.
If you can send me a picture of exactly what you are talking about i may be able get recommend something.
do NOT use the Accelerated default print settings..... it will mess up any really fine detail in models. (honeycomb patterns) I do not like it and don't use it at all.
for me it doesn't work. That is my first guess on what is causing your problem, but send me a pic if you can.
[email protected]

jctj on Jun 26, 2013 said:

First - thanks for all the great work you did on these pieces! Second, I am a teacher at a High School that just did very well for itself in its first year of competing - winning State Champs for our division (AA). We have a MakerBot at school, and so I wanted to make a special "Wasatch Academy" set to perhaps give to the #1 Chess player each year (and a set for myself, naturally...). So, I am trying to use Sketchup 8 to put a Tiger's head (our mascot) on the Knight instead of the traditional horse. I have a rough tiger head, and I have imported and scaled it to match the simplified version JulienM made (Thanks to Julien as well!), but then I am in way over my head. I have no idea how to disassemble the horse head and put the tiger head in its place.

Thoughts?

PerryT on Jun 26, 2013 said:

First - you are welcome! :)

Second: I am not sure exactly what you have. I will help all i can. if you can send me the 3D model of the tigers head in a iges or step file i can put it on the knight for you and send you a high res stl....I will do my best to help.

send it to [email protected]

ajlull on May 21, 2013 said:

Turned out Awesome once I figured out MY issues. Live and learn. Great Design and it is tremendous that you are sharing this with the community.

ajlull on May 12, 2013 said:

I love this, however when I went to print the corners today I ended up cleaning up a lot of broken bits when printing at high speed. It seems the logo, was messing with me. I think you should keep it there, don't get me wrong you did all the major work...but can you print it on a raised piece of the board. Or can I invert the part to make it print better? Any advice? I'm still figuring this out only a few hundred hours with this printer.

PerryT on Jun 18, 2013 said:

do not use high speed printing... i tried myself and have had nothing but problems..... the parts i export are very hi res.... hence their size. just use standard settings and don't try to rush it and it will print fine. I have printed many complete boards without a single scrapped section. once you get a system down that works... don't mess with it!... that is the best advice i have.... and of course..."don't rush it"... anything worth having is worth waiting for! :)

ajlull on May 12, 2013 said:

BTW, the finished product turned out fine, it was about 5 minutes of tenuous moments at the beginning with the tweezers and the putty knife. Awesome design!

vcatkins on Feb 14, 2013 said:

Hi Perry, this looks perfect! I've been looking for something like this! I'm new to this whole world, could you please let me know the dimensions of the king and pawn? Height and base diameter? Thanks!

PerryT on Feb 15, 2013 said:

I tried to stay as close as possible to a traditional full size Staunton set.
i deviated where i thought it looked better and printed easier.

Pawn: 1.95" tall
1.125" dia base.

King: 3.975" tall
1.6" dia base.

they shrink a little while printing that is why the height is a little off the round numbers.
Hope you enjoy the set.
I am currently printing a 3/4 scale set and it really looks great.

claytantor on Feb 14, 2013 said:

I am remixing the heck out of this. Awesome.

PerryT on Feb 3, 2013 said:

Thank you Mike.
I love your design... very nice. I think my base would work great with the squares. AWESOME.

MikeyB on Feb 7, 2013 said:

Thanks Perry! I will be remixing your design for the base with curves instead of hard angles, I think it will match my set a little better. Also I have linked you set in my thing so people can print out your base if they want before I have remixed it. I plan on printing you set after I get mine done. It's taking a helluva long time to print :) Thanks again!

julienM on Jan 7, 2013 said:

I put the full description in the derivative.

"Quadric Edge Collapse Decimation" in MeshLab seems to be much better than the export settings in a lot of programs.

The image is a comparison of the Knight, before and after. I doubt any normal printer would produce different results between the two files, for a 50x decrease in file size,

Basically I just wanted to offer an alternative, for those who have problems with such large files.

PerryT on Jan 7, 2013 said:

Thank you... i downloaded the knight and did a direct comparison of my original and it looks awesome considering how much smaller the file is. personally i don't care about file size and i don't have issues with them, i am looking for quality but if i can have both... its a win win.. and it definitely makes it easier for anyone who downloads the files. i appreciate the help and advice. It is VERY welcome. I am an engineer and have been designing crap all my life, but i am new to 3D printing, i'm still learning. Thanks again. :)

PerryT on Jan 7, 2013 said:

Julien,,
What are you doing to simplify the parts so that the file size is smaller? And how does it effect the slicing and quality of the finished part? I have played around with the stl's when i export and noticed that the higher resolution i use, the better the quality of the part. I like to keep the faceting sizes as small as possible and still maintain a reasonable part file size. It just bugs me seeing flat areas on a sphere or curved surface...

PerryT on Jan 7, 2013 said:

Pawn and King are scaled properly now.

PerryT on Jan 7, 2013 said:

Sorry about the scaling problem.... i edited a couple of the pieces and forgot.... i was in a hurry to get them up before i went to bed last night... :) I will fix them and correct the files.

julienM on Jan 7, 2013 said:

Nice pieces. These could be good for casting as well.

I think the King and the Pawn are in inches, whereas the other pieces are in mm. I re-uploaded all the pieces simplified, to reduce the overall filesize in order to facilitate slicing.

pit3k on Jan 7, 2013 said:

Brilliant! This is going to have to be my first serious print after I receive my white filament :)

PerryT on Jan 7, 2013 said:

I have white and i think natural looks a little better. Post some pics when you print and let us see how it comes out!

idolcrasher on Jan 7, 2013 said:

Very nice. Probably the first awesome printable board I have seen :)

PerryT on Jan 7, 2013 said:

Thank you. I wanted to make it look like a high end hand made hardwood board.

Top