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AJGW Alain-Jonas-Greg-Wade's Extruder

by AlainMouette, published

AJGW Alain-Jonas-Greg-Wade's Extruder by AlainMouette Jan 27, 2013
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Summary

A few things annoyed me when I built a new Extruder, so this project started to be just a few fixes but then I ended up fixing a lot of small issues.

This is just one more in a long line of extruders derived one from the other. I named it AJGW to reflect contributors in the main line, but I did add all interesting accessories like the heringbone gears and fast release lever.

Here are some of the new features:

) new concept split filament guide, fixes better and allows easier access.
) Idler hinge doesn't touch the gear anymore.
) option (default) to use 5/32" screw for the idler which is easy to find
) longer oblong hole for the motor screws. This eliminates the need to remove the motor when testing or adjusting the heringbone gears.
) Top access to screws with ball end allen wrench. This allows for much easier attaching and removing, specially when there is a fan duct. Optional without nut fitting in base.
) Heringbone gears a little thiner and nicer looking. Better fit of the screw
) Open access to the insides for cleaning and inspection, just like Greg's
) Redesigned Fast Release Lever but keeping the same concept
) reinforcement to the upper idler screw attaching point, this was a frequent point of breakage
) reinforcement behind the tractor screw's bearing, to avoid frequent breakage
) reinforcement on the top with a little extra height
) Idler printing sideways, this avoids weakness in the hinge screw
) thicker motor mounting base so that M3x10 screws can be used without extra spacers
) Various external support structures, prints better without automatic support and it is easy to clean.
) Parametric, various simplified optins including 1.75 filament
) Many small things that you will not even notice that they aren't there anymore to annoy you...

All metric screws, except for the long idler screws that are not available as metric.

A few extras are included, like washers that you can print instead of going out to buy them.

It was originaly thought to be used for 0.25mm layers, but it has been tested by some friends with 0.4mm too.

I am releasing a few options that make sense to me and to some friends. If you need a different option and are having trouble with the .scad files, please post a comment and I will be glad to include other options.

2013/feb/17: there is an adapter for the Prusa i3 here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:29795 please let me know if it works!

2013/mar/17: I found another nice support here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:57668

Version 1.1: small reinforcement in the Idler, included STL files for both 4mm and 3/32" (very usefull only in Brazil)

Instructions

This thing needs a well calibrated 3D printer, but not a high precision one. Please see Slicer parameter at the end of these instructions.
Be carefull not to use Brim for the big gear and washers.
Some parts have optimizations for layer height/width, please check the files names carefully

After printing all parts, clean the brim and all support material.

=== List of printed parts:

1 Extruder body
1 Idler
1 big gear
1 small gear
n M8 washers, stl for 1.2 and 2 mm are included
2 4mm (5/32") washer, to be inserted between the screw and the spring.

=== BOM, vitamins needed:

3pc 608 bearing
1pc 8mm axis for the idler, length=19mm (or 5/16")
1pc M8 tractor screw
2pc M8 nuts
3pc M3x10 screw for the motor
1pc M3x8 set screw for small gear
1pc M3 nut
3pc M3 washer
2pc screw 5/32 x 2 1/2" this is 62mm long (or optional: M4x60)
2pc nut 5/32" (or optional: 4mm)
2pc M4x 25 hex screw for fixing the base, YMMV
2pc M4 nuts
4pc M4 washers
2ps cloth peg springs, these are cheap and just perfect for the idler
1pc Nema 17 stepper...

=== Adjustements:

The most important adjustmaent is the aligment of the heringbone gears or they will wear out very fast. The EXTERNAL SURFACE of both gears have to be even for correct operations, beware that the small gear is bigger on the inside to allow for some printing variations.

The motor should be fixed so that there is no slash but WITHOUT PRESSING the gears toghether. Adjust with filament inserted and springs tensioned fo avoid surprises.

=======================================================
==== Recomended Slic3r settings ====

from Slic3r 0.9.7 up there are no (big) fill problems
But this has generaly been optimized for these parameters
Print Idler first to see if all goes well
Allways use RepetierHost to check if Gcode is ok !!!

File extensions:
.stl no optimization for layer height/width
.25.stl for printing with 0.25 layer height
.40.stl for printing with 0.40 layer height
.2550.stl .25 layer height, but width must be 0.50 (see bellow)
.4060.stl .40 layer height, but width must be 0.60 (see bellow)
.scad files is not dependant on layers height
gears should allways be 0.25 height, but can be 0.4 on a good printer
NOTE: all parts have their own built-in support (except one idler file)

Print settings > Layers and perimeters
    Perimeter (minimum)     = 2
    Generate extra perimeters= NO
Print settings > Skirt and brim
    Don't use BRIM for big-gear and washers!!!
    Brim essencial for Idler, recomended for the rest

==>> For 0.25mm layers:
Print settings > Layers and perimeters
Layer height = 0.25 mm
Horizontal shells, Solid layers = 4 (aprox 1mm)
Print settings > Advanced > Extrusion width
Default extrusion width = 0.50 mm
First layer = 0.48 mm
Perimeters = 0.48 mm
Infill = 0.48 mm
==>> For 0.40mm layers:
Print settings > Layers and perimeters
Layer height = 0.40 mm
Horizontal shells, Solid layers = 3
Print settings > Advanced > Extrusion width
Default extrusion width = 0.60 mm
First layer = 0.58 mm
Perimeters = 0.58 mm
Infill = 0.58 mm
There is some rounding problems and 0.48 or 0.58 allows for better thin walls

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Where is the scad file for the idler? I have to modify it a bit and couldn't find it on the zip file.

Hi. What is the difference between this tooth profile vs linear profile? Does it give a better consistency on the plastic flux?

I am not sure about your question, but I assume that this is the teeth on the tractioning screw...
The Linear profile only makes it easyer to adjust the screw position as you don't need to be exactly in the middle of the grove.
For 3mm filament you need very sharp teeth to ger enough traction, but on 1,75mm filament this can be too sharp!

Excuse me, my english isn't that good. I was talking about the gear. In this case, it has a double helix, vs mine (prusa i3 rework extruder) that is rectilinear

I'm about to try my first attempt with kisslicer (I want to like Slic3r but I just can't get acceptable prints out of it). One note: your support structures inconsistently fail to handle changes to the "elevation" param. I raise the elevation as my gears often interfere with the belt clamps and only some of the support pieces adjusted correctly.

The other options that I checked seem to work just fine (checked groovemount, hex_base_nuts and a few details in the motor mount that I prefer to be different).

I agree with you on the weakness of the "on the back" orientation of the guidler teeth (going back to much older comment complaining about your changes). Very curious to see how your idler compares.

So 0.3mm height and 0.6mm width with kisslicer worked just fine in terms of support locations and adhesion. The filament I chose doesn't bridge all that well and the underside of the idler bearing cavity was... messy. I'm going to try the idler again with some clear PLA that bridges much better.

I really need to add a print fan to my printer.

how did you cut the 8mm bolt for the filament to grab?

May I ask what variations I'll have to make to obtain a version for 1.75 mm filament?
It was not mentioned in the instructions and I only have 1.75 mm filaments

in the SCAD file there is an option to generate the 1.75mm version.

Anyone looking for the clothespins listed, here's an Amazon link: http://amzn.com/B000HJDCWWhttp://amzn.com/B000HJDCWW

Hi,

I like your Version of this Extruder. But is there a version for 1.75mm filament?
I´m not able to change it by my self.

Thanks

in the SCAD file there is an option to generate the 1.75mm version.

Hi, I think this is a great design. Can you generate a mirrored design? I am going to use this on a Mendel90.

Is a simple mirror image all that you need? This can be done wit Netfab-free (I just checked) available at http://www.netfabb.com/download.phphttp://www.netfabb.com/downloa....
I believe that only the extruder body end the idler need inverting.
If you need something else, please ask again...

I printed this and am a bit disappointed.

  1. You shouldn't have changed 3mm to 2-56 ..nearly everything on reprap is 3mm and introducing another screw size was plain unnecessary.

  2. The gears are too thin --- toooooooo thin...I have broken nearly 4 small gears off the original wide design .. .(about 100 hours of use each) .. and I don't think the thin gears will last

  3. Your idler design is made with support .. why? you can rotate it 90 degrees and it needs no support.

  4. I like your quick eject idea ...but there really was no reason to change the item 1, 2 ..... I don't think it's an improvement .. it's a true tangential fork. If you would post another design with 3mm and wider gears .. I will surely try them.

I printed this and am a bit disappointed.

  1. You shouldn't have changed 3mm to 2-56 ..nearly everything on reprap is 3mm and introducing another screw size was plain unnecessary.

  2. The gears are too thin --- toooooooo thin...I have broken nearly 4 small gears off the original wide design .. .(about 100 hours of use each) .. and I don't think the thin gears will last

  3. Your idler design is made with support .. why? you can rotate it 90 degrees and it needs no support.

  4. I like your quick eject idea ...but there really was no reason to change the item 1, 2 ..... I don't think it's an improvement .. it's a true tangential fork. If you would post another design with 3mm and wider gears .. I will surely try them.
  1. The change was not from 3mm but to 4mm long screws. As said, this is for Brazil only. If you are not from here, please, just ignore the file. My friends loved it ;-)
  2. This is not a beginners print. If your printer is not yet calibrated, ask a friend and print again when your printer is better calibrated. Use 0.25mm layer with the settings in the instructions and it will be very strong.
  3. As explained in the text, when printed on the back it is fragile. Printing on the side is more trouble but has superior result.
  4. The idea of the quick release is not mine, have you read the "derived from"? and I don't even understand what you dislike about my implementation.

Allain
I have reasonable exp. with printing .. have 2 printers and printed nearly 1000 hours of ~100 different designs.

I have 2 issues with your design.. The gear you designed is thinner than the older design -- much thinner, maybe someone before you did this change. As this site has lost credibility .. good designers have removed their design ..Simon/Prusa others.

I have used Simon design with 3mm bolts.. not a problem!

I did the big gear a little thinner. It is still much wider then the original "straight" gear, so this is absolutely not fragile.

I don't know what you don't like about this gear, it was much praised... If you have real criticisms and specialy constructive ones, you are wellcome and I will improve the design.

BTW, there was an error in the first comment. The fast-release screw was never 3mm, but it is opcionaly 4mm. and that for non-brazilians only.

Having trouble finding 5/32 screws. Can you provide a link for reference? or a source? Thanks

Sorry for the delay. I asked for help from a friend that works in the US and apparently that screw only exist in Brazil !!!

There already is an option in the SCAD file for M4 screws, I don't know if M3x60mm screws are available there but I used threaded rods with nylock nuts in place of the screw head.

The only difference between the 2 options is the nut housing which is bigger for M4 then for 5/32" nuts. If you have problems, I can upload a set of .STL files for that, just ask...

If there is a more convenient screw available I am willing to include it as an option too.
BTW, I just assumed that that is an US problem, your profile is incomplete in that aspect.

Thanks for the reply. Yes they are not to be found here in the us. M3x60 are also hard to get. I have some on order but no idea when they will ship. I will go with M4 thanks again.

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