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The Tudor Rose Box (with secret lock)

by loubie, published

The Tudor Rose Box (with secret lock) by loubie Jul 27, 2014

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101143Views 22264Downloads Found in Interactive Art

Summary

My latest design and back to my English roots.. I call it the Tudor Rose box. I have tried to create an effect of heavy wood carving that was popular during the Tudor period.
This was a real challenge.
The box also has a secret lock:-)
PLEASE NOTE THE FOLLOWING CHANGES:
Some slicers were having problems with the vines which were very thin and missing them out. I have uploaded two additional version of the box body and the front slider panel which have thicker vines.
box_body_thicker_vines.stl
front_slider_panel_thicker_vines.stl
Please use these if you are experiencing problems with the older files.
I have uploaded an additional STL for the rose which should slice much better than the original.

Instructions

I have written some detailed instruction on how to assemble this model.

http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Tudor-Rose-Box-Assembly-Instructions/

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vraiment magnifique
ça me donne envie de faire une boite à secret !
très bon travail.
félicitations, respect
NOP21

making two now for my kids to paint and use. great design. thanks

Thank you! Please post pictures when your kids have finished their customization, I'd love to see their work.

holy sh.... this looks awesome! i'm printing it right now. my mom's birthday is this weekend, and she'll get a special pendant for that. this thing is the best "present box" i could imagine! I'm sure, she will love the box as much as the pendant itself!!! As I am printing this I'm figuring out how the lock is turned.... With screws? some "hidden" thing i missed? please give me some hint on how to get the lock to turn the right way, so i can manage to get this insane thing to work =D

chris

Apr 20, 2016 - Modified Apr 20, 2016
loubie - in reply to Riku

The documentation explains the mechanism and assembly. The lock is simply a sliding panel at the front which hooks onto a catch on the lid and "locks" the box.

Good luck with the make and I hope your mum likes it.

Apr 20, 2016 - Modified Apr 20, 2016
Riku - in reply to loubie

i feel so stupid now.... i can't see the part on where to drill the hole, or is there no drilling needed? just finished printing out the front panel (where the moving rose fits in) and there is nothing i logically put on the moving parts. ATM i don't "see" the assembling of this.... maybe its to late here (in germany) and my brain went just at sleep... but right now, I think i have to connect the rose through the front panel and body to the "catch.stl" to get all moving.... so, whats the connector!? I can't see a screw in all the pictures... so confused right now......... how do they connect?

loubie - in reply to Riku

You don't need to drill anything or use screws. You just need glue. It's all explained here:

http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Tudor-Rose-Box-Assembly-Instructions/?ALLSTEPS

This has pictures to follow along with the text. Good luck!

Hehe! I know that seller personally, so it's okay and we talked came to an agreement ages ago. He printed my Tudor Rose Box scaled and it took 23KG of filament!!!!

Thanks for the heads up though. I appreciate that people are looking out for me.

nice can make Pandora's box to

This design is a true work of art! I just built one with the addition to the lid, and it looks great! Thanks very much for the design!

Thank you very much and I love your make.

Do you think wood filament will work on this?

Check out the makes for this model. Many have used wood based filaments successfully.

Awesome! Your model has been chosen as one of the Top 3D Printed Christmas / Holiday Models this year. Search "Top Free 3D Printed Christmas Gift 2015 Printing Ninja" to see. (sorry thingiverse bans url addresses)

Any tips on printing the hinged? Ive tried a few thing .2height slow .1 height slow. Ive never had problems before printing parts like this but having a hella time with this one and it the last piece!! I always measure my filament. Thanks

I avoid the fumes of acetone by using Fructis brand hair spray on my heatbed. For each new build I rough the old sprayed surface with a straight edge utility blade and add a quick spray to refresh the surface. I can do over a dozen builds before having to wash it off with water. Builds pop right off after they have cooled. I keep my bed at 100 C.

With which type of filament?

I work mostly in ABS but have a couple odd colors in PLA. Both seem to stick real strong to the heated bed (which is covered with a 12 inch mirror tile). Once it cools below 40c each comes off easy.

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From my experience, hairspray works well with PLA on cold or warm beds. Fro ABS, you'll need something like Elmer's glue and a heated bed.

Amazing design, this is actually something I'll print as soon as I get the chance! Quick question tho... what is the printing time of all?

Thanks!

Print time is going to depend on your printer/layer height/infill etc... I know on my Ordbot printing 100% scale with an infill of 15% and a layer height of .2 the whole model took roughly 10-12 hours.

Wow 10-12 hours!!! I'm assuming each part would be less than 5 hours? I'm still not comfortable printing for more than 5 hours on my new replicator 2x with ABS.... they seem to unstick after 5 hours regardless of whatever I put on the printing bed...

But I love this for sure Will print as soon as I can!
Thanks

Try double sided sticky tape to help objects stick to the bed, works a treat for me

LOL! That's the whole model as in all the pieces as a combined time - not each piece:-). The bed on my my Ordbot isn't large enough to print all the pieces of this model at once, so I had to separate them into "lots". In any case, as I said before, print times are so printer and slicer setting specific that generic answers are generally not that useful.

If you want to work out how long things are going to take then slice the models and your print software should give you a good estimate of the times. You can then decide to proceed with the print or add/remove parts for a time you feel comfortable with. I was very nervous when I got my first printer - now I'l quite happily leave something printing for 24 hours. Mind you, that is with PLA - I hate the smell of ABS so rarely use it.

ABS is a pig to get to stick to anything. I find a heated bed and Elmers glue works well.

Good luck with your prints and I am very happy you like my model.

Thanks for the hints... its not really my first printer, I was quite comfortable printing with my first Replicator 2 with PLA... but PLA as you mentioned is much easier to print with...

I'll check out the Elmers glue for sure, I am currently trying techniques such as (obviously) the heated bed with blue painters tape and spraying acetone just before the extruder starts printing...

Its working well so far, but I've only printed objects 2 hours or less... nothing above that...

Thanks!

I know I'm really late to this conversation, but if you want ABS to stick to a build plate, dissolve some abs in acetone and paint it on to the print bed. This will hold but be careful a little goes along way and may have enough grip to pull up kapton tape so be careful if you use kapton tape. This also works only with heated beds as far as I'm aware.

Thanks, I got that working a while ago, but a question for you, what is, to your preference the best concentration of abs:acetone? I find that it's a lot of acetone to little abs... Like 10:1 or 8:1

I've found that the less abs the better, you really just need a thin layer of abs after the acetone evaporates off, if you have too much you break projects getting them off the print bed and more sanding to clean up the bottom sides.

And if you multi purpose the solution, it works best as glue and to smooth things when its viscosity is low, which you can get when you have only a little amount of ABS.

This is quite lovely. Now that my Rep2's back in working order, I think my fiancée deserves one of these.
She loves ornate boxes.

I hope she likes it and good luck with the print.

One of my favorite prints on thingiverse. Absolutely gorgeous.
Can't wait until I get my bronzefill and print and polish this beauty up! :)

Hi,
A quick question - what kind of 3D software you used to design this nice box?
Tomorrow I'm getting my MakerBot Replicator 2 and I'll try this box as my first 3D print project.

I used Solidworks for everything except the rose which I sculpted in Maya. Good luck with the print.

I just printed this out and assembled it. It's gorgeous. Thanks so much for your design!

Thank you and I am glad you like it. Please post pictures of your make though.

This is absolutely gorgeous. Kudos on the great design this is the kind of thing that sparked my newfound passion for 3d printing

Why - thank you:-) Another secret lock box is in the works but it has a different historical theme....

I love the way it slides to open up... wish I thought about that in my design.
Very cool.

I love puzzle boxes. I love pretty things too, but I like them to do something other than just look nice. It's part of the reason I like to build models that don't need supports - it adds to the challenge. Why not re-make your box using the basic mechanism I use? Not quite sure how you would handle those pretty feet you have on your, but I think it could be done.

I wanted to know where you looked/learned to make your hinge. I want to make a similar one for a project.

To be honest, I taught myself. I started by buying some cheap hinges, taking them apart and looking at them but I didn't want to use something with a wire down the middle. My original design had the hinges printed in two pieces which would then snap together, but I found that hard on my hands and I was worried that some other users would have the same issue - so I abandoned that idea

If you want to know what I did, the best thing to do would be to slice my hinge model and then scroll through the layers. You'll be able to see the shapes I used clearly and is much better than any written explanation. The trick is to have two pieces that fit together but don't touch. whilst printing. You need a round shape that will allow rotation. I used a cone shape which tapers at a 45 degree angle with a blunt top.

The other option is to use something like the customizable hinge that Mathgrrl just released. Good luck.

Bonjour
machine en panne. début avec pla je pense que j'ai imprimé avec T° trop forte. je doit imprimer la fleur avec le mécanisme pour les dimensions. après je pourrait modéliser la rose des vents sur inventor mais dés que se sera fait je t"envois tout.

merci, en cour d'impression...et dés que ce sera fini je modélise une rose des vents d'époque à la place des fleurs. je renvois tout dés que possible.

loubie - in reply to lip

You will replace the roses with an antique compass face? That sounds like a very interesting idea and I look forward to seeing it.

Aug 24, 2014 - Modified Aug 24, 2014

WOW! Very well done.

I printed it on my Ultimaker Original using Cura as a slicer at 100 micron. Turned out really well.

The only issue I had was with the hinge. It seemed to put a-lot of pressure on the glued surfaces to hold the lid open. I am not sure if it was my slicer or not. :)

Thank you very much for making this design available for us to print!

Aug 25, 2014 - Modified Aug 25, 2014
loubie - in reply to scottdanesi

Thanks! The hinge was more me proving to myself that it could be printed in one piece (I kept snapping the tests I made in two parts when fitting them together). The design could do with some tweaking. However, I do find that using concrete strength plastic glue tends to sort any potential separation:-)

Glad you like the design.

Hi all,

This design looks stunning,
Has anyone done this on a Makerbot Replicator 2 - I was just wondering what settings I need to use

Rebecca

Wonderful and inspiring!
Thanks for sharing.

Seems like there is another one of these called AMIE2. Just saying.

I really can't see the point of what that person has done. Thanks for letting me know.

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Very nice Job. Well thought out. Everything printed and fit well.

Excellent - glad to hear it and thank you for posting your print.

I have printed one of these in gold PLA at .2mm (200 microns) and it came out very nice. The hinge works perfectly as does the catch. I have downloaded the upgraded version and am presently printing it a .2mm with black PLA. The slider is printing at this time and the remade vines look great. Next is to print it at 100 microns (.1mm layer height). Very nice, wish I could design like this.

Milt

Aug 10, 2014 - Modified Aug 10, 2014
loubie - in reply to mondo50m

Thanks for your kind words.

I feel a bit silly not checking my original model with a full range of slicers - I should know better. Fortunately, some people from the Reprap community (including my other half:-)) pointed out the problem and I was able to work out a fix reasonably quickly and publish it. Others from the wider community either didn't notice or have been too polite to say anything.

I think the key to a successful design (beyond having the idea) is mapping out as much in advance as you can and carefully planning each step and following them. Particularly with assemblies, it is very easy to get "lost" and end up with problems.

I am documenting the design process for my next model and will publish that in my blog. I'll put a link to it in the description when I eventually publish.

My wife liked him, good job ...

http://t.co/YMy0RrmJ5q

Thank you - very pretty and I am glad your wife liked it.

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I am currently making one but it seems the catch is a little too thick to fit in the grove of the body. Its fits very tight so I made it 4.6 mm thick and it seems to do the trick. Just thought you should know.

Have you checked you are not over extruding your filament? Although filament can be advertised as 1.75/3mm, the truth is that it often varies and measuring filament diameter with a pair of calipers will yield a more accurate number which should be used in your profile for that particular filament.

I've printed this model with a range of filaments and have no issue with the fittings - the catch is supposed to be snug although not impossible to fit or move.

I just printed it in brown ABS, and it came out beautifully. I also got some of the odd bridging on the roses--I think there must be an errant surface in the STL.

Did you take pictures of the bridging? If so, I would like to see them.

Which rose file did you use? I uploaded an addiitonal version yesterday which should slice better.

I printed the older version. The new file wasn't posted when I printed the roses.

This is awesome. We have to little ornature today. So this brings a smile to my face. :D

Thank you. I plan to do more themed puzzle objects. I don't see why things can't be interesting and pretty.

Aug 5, 2014 - Modified Aug 6, 2014

Stunning!

Your talents are expressed well in this design. I'm a minimalist in that I attempt to accomplish a design in the least amount of print time and PLA.

You've convinced me with this design I'm taking the wrong approach.

Again, an absolutely stunning design. Unbelievable, congratulations!

Oh and your automata are fabulous and something I am working towards (or trying to). Automata are a passion of mine: I really like the examples you see from 18th and 19th centuries - very clever designs and artistically beautiful as well. I think if you can create a story around a mechanism through presentation, then people start to project their own ideas on it and it makes the model more complete. The Tudor Rose box started out as a very plain box with a sliding mechanism and a hinge which prints assembled. Once I had the "working parts" functioning, I then went on to develop the art. With that, I think it becomes more than just a locking box. Of course, sometimes you change the mechanisms to suit the art and the idea.

I would like to progress to moving dioramas...one day..:-) Thank you for commenting and posting your excellent work.

Many thanks.

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very good and beautyful.thankyou

loubie - in reply to catia

Thank you.

WOW! Beautiful! Great job!

Thank you.

spectacular, loubie.

loubie - in reply to ramai

Best kind of feedback:-)

someone needs to print this in laywood

It would be interesting to see the results, I agree. Personally though, I think wood coloured filament works well because it incorporates a sheen which mimics the heavy varnishing seen on Tudor wood carving.

I'm almost done printing this now. The only problem so far is with the roses the inner small sections seem to be bridging for some reason. But only on 3 of the 5. It's strange I can post a photo if you'd like to see it. I think I can cut the web off and be fine for now.

Yes, please do. You've not had any problem with the hinge?

Jul 28, 2014 - Modified Jul 28, 2014
MacGyver - in reply to loubie

Everything else has fit together perfect and I'm using ABS plastic and printed most of it at .25 layer height. The roses I've been printing at .20 layer height to try and get better detail.

Here's a photo of what I'm talking about. I used my thumbnail and pushed in the one on the right side. They were pretty easy to remove with an exacto knife. Also I'm using skeinforge 50 and ReplicatorG to print these on my Thing-O-matic with sailfish firmware.
http://imgur.com/QQY7C1F

I haven't tried to slice it using Skeinforge. I've used Slic3r and KISS - both which had different ways of handling the petals. Translating a Tudor rose to 3D is interesting because they are generally only seen in 2D. The petals, while very flat are still curved up and slightly over at the tip - which is what gives them their characteristic look. It took me a while to get this looking right in Maya (although you could use Blender too), but they are an odd shape for anything to slice and print. As an experiment, why not try a different slicer with a single rose? If you do, I'd be interested to see the results.

Your final result with the box looks great and I am very happy to see my model is printable for others (it's always a concern, no matter how much I test:-))

Thanks for the feedback.

Wow! So beautiful! I hope I'm able enough to print one.

loubie - in reply to EHM

It is designed to print without supports. Just be sure to measure the diameter if your filament carefully so you don't get problems with the hinge.

Good luck.

Wow wow wow! This is some beautiful work! I'll be putting this in the print queue. Well done!

Heh - if you do get time to print one, I would love to see what paint job you could do with it. Thanks for the feedback.

Absolutely (I will paint one), and congrats on the feature!

This is definitely going on my to-do list. Great work!

Thank you:-)

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