Loading

T4 Quadcopter Mini 315 (7-8 inch props)

by Brendan22, published

T4 Quadcopter Mini 315 (7-8 inch props) by Brendan22 Jul 27, 2014
Tip Designer Report Thing

Thing Info

36835Views 7252Downloads Found in R/C Vehicles

Summary

This quadcopter is about 22mm longer and 2mm taller than the popular T4 Quadcopter Mini 250. It supports up to 8" props and a 2200mah 3S battery.

Check out the whole "T" copter family:

  • TX8 Octocopter
  • T6 Hexacopter
  • T4 Quadcopter (10" props)
  • T4 Quadcopter Mini 315 (7-8" props)
  • T4 Quadcopter Mini 250 (5" props)
  • Tubular Crossfire 2 quadcopter
    I've added a post on the forums over at DIY Drones for discussing and improving these designs.

    Videos

  • Build video playlist
  • Build video 1: Body assembly
  • Build video 2: Install motors
  • Build video 3: ESCs and power
  • Build video 4: Flight control
  • Frame strength testing
  • First flight

    Features:

  • completely 3D printable (without support)
  • fully assembled frame weight less than 130 grams!
  • strong, simple assembly with no bolts to save weight! Everything is secured using 2.5mm zip ties.
  • includes two arm options - 28mm, and 30mm motor cup (inside diameter). The 30mm cup has slots for 3mm motor bolts (the other is 2mm).
  • strong braced tube section arms with plenty of room to conceal motor wiring
  • designed for a 3S battery (up to 2200) located right in the centre of rotation/thrust (110 x 38 x 24mm capacity).
  • plenty of space to mount ESCs - concealed but still well ventilated for cooling.
  • top plate has space for a variety of flight controllers and a Mobius style camera. It also features 3mm mounting holes so stand-offs could be used to add an additional deck of components. Alternatively two hex holes are available to add 3D printed posts and rear upper deck.
  • RF "invisible" frame - as opposed to carbon fiber or aluminium
  • Sketchup file included so you can make changes to suit yourself

    Revision History

    2 September 2014
    Legs for your T4 Mini are now available.
    31 August 2014
    Version 1.3
    Added a bridge to T4Mini315VibrationFloatingPlate.stl to make it less flexible. No other files were changed.
    15 August 2014
    Version 1.2
    New vibration isolating top plate option. This option is compatible with previous body and all other components. It replaces the top plate with one that has mounting points for 65 gram vibration damping balls that then connect to a new floating plate to hold your flight controller and camera.
    New files:

  • T4Mini315VibrationTopPlate.stl
  • T4Mini315VibrationFloatingPlate.stl
    30 July 2014 - Version 1.01
  • there seem to be a lot more 8" prop options so I've added two arms to suit 8" props (28mm cup and 30mm cup).
  • extended the 7" arms by 5mm to give a bit more clearance from the body.
  • modified the body to raise the arm sockets so there is a bit for material in the bottom of the socket - stronger to support longer arms.

Instructions

Printing

I printed all parts in PLA, 0.25mm layers with 40% infill, 2 shells and 3 top/bottom layers. Feel free to experiment. I didn't play around too much with the settings as these gave me a good strong result.
Fitting the top plate and bottom tray
Both the top plate and bottom tray are designed to slide from front to back (at 45 degrees) as they are being fitted into the body. In particular the top plate needs to be pressed firmly down onto the 8 angled guides as you slide it back. Once in place the top plate will clip onto the smaller bumps near the rear cable tie mount (just above the rear arms). Look closely at the parts and it will all become clear.
Calibration test
T4MiniTestSocket.stl contains a cut-down socket you can use for testing the fit of your arms before committing to the full Body print.
A quick word about scaling
According to Wikipedia apparently "there is no scale information [in STL files], and the units are arbitrary". There is often confusion with STL files and metric versus imperial (inches) units. I designed these parts in Sketchup using metric units and they import correctly into my slicer (which is also set to metric). If you have issues, check your application to see if has a way to select metric or alternatively scale down by a factor of 25.4.
Also, the Sketchup file contents are scaled up by 1000 (attempt to solve some Sketchup quirks). I scale each component down by 0.001 before exporting the STL so they are in real millimetre sizes.

What you'll need

  • 4 arms (9 grams, 0.5 hour print each*)
  • 1 body (40 grams, 2.75 hour print*)
  • 1 top plate (12 grams, 1 hour print*)
  • 1 bottom tray (14 grams, 1 hour print*)
  • 1 battery pin (almost nothing, real fast)
  • 2 posts (optional)
  • 1 post plate (optional)
    *times were recorded on my Makergear M2 printer which has a 0.35mm nozzle and was printing at 4500mm/min.
    ...and "hardware"...
  • 2,5mm (wide) zip ties (approx 100mm long)
  • some foam for padding the battery compartments. I ended up using self adhesive window draft-stop tape from my local DIY store.
  • some Kyosho Zeal Gel or similar anti-vibration gel and rubber bands for mounting the flight controller and camera.
  • double sided adhesive foam tape (for mounting other electronics)
  • soldering gear and connectors to suit your electrical bits

If your new to RC copters then the ArduCopter wiki is a great place to find out everything you need know.

More from R/C Vehicles

view more
Tip Designer Report Thing

Thing Info

36835Views 7252Downloads Found in R/C Vehicles

Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag. Print Thing Tag

All Apps

This App connects Thingiverse with Makeprintable, a cloud-based mesh repair service that analyzes, validates and repairs most common mesh errors that can occur when preparing a 3D design file for p...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

i'm printing this quadcopter, very very great job. I like a lot the skp file inside. wich kind of plugin u use to draw this things? thanks!!

I think just the one for creating STL files and another called "Make Faces".

6 days ago - Modified 6 days ago
89stefano89 - in reply to Brendan22

thanks!
I thought that for making the holes in the surfaces you used a plugin

Just the built-in push/pull tool.

and a lot of patience !!! ehehe great job

Can you explain how to setup the FPV on the 250 or 315?

My motors are emax mt2204(19mm and 16mm) which arm should i print

Perhaps the smallest ones (28mm 7"). Just print one and see if it will work.

Okey thank you i printed body and it took 6 hours

Do you have a list of all the electronic parts we will need?

Mar 22, 2016 - Modified Mar 22, 2016

I'm printing your design right now. And I really it!

I have a constructive comment. Because I'm watching my printer print allll these little "speed holes" / cut-outs to drop the weight, I couldn't help but think how much longer it takes and whether or not I'm actually lowering the weight. So I took "top plate" and edited it to be solid and here are my results... The original part weighs 18grams, takes 60 min to print. The solid part weighs 20grams and takes 50min to print. This is using the same slicer settings (3 perimeters, 2 top and bottom layers, 30% infill). So the solid part is faster and weighs slightly more, it also is going to be much stronger and because it has a solid surface I don't feel like I have to baby the first layer of the print.

Just thought I'd share my findings in my quick experiment.

Thanks Steve. The motivation for the holes was more about ventilation for the battery and ESCs. As an aside, I've found that the shells created by the through holes causes the plates to be more slightly more rigid that with "solid" plates and infill throughout (but not enough to be significant).

Though it will be more rigid with the holes everywhere it will also be more brittle, and with many holes with a small surface area between them it makes for an easier crack when it crashes.

Is there a complete part list available?

If you have the ESCs in the tube, wont they overheat?

The ESCs are intended to be in the bottom tray - just the wires to the motors go through the arms.

What you have created here is really amazing and could or should be marketed. I wonder if you could get this site to do a review of your airframes? http://microdronesamerica.com

What Kind of Props???

Brendan - just a word of thanks. Your design is great and easy to work with. It allowed my son and I to put our first quad copter together, and it flies really well. A great learning experience, and its pretty awesome to have a bad crash, break a part and just run upstairs and print another.
We started with the 250, moving up to the 315 (great excuse to up-size my printer).

Vol du 11-8-2015 a St julien en Auvergne sur le Spectome
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTijSDni3Ps

Oct 2, 2015 - Modified Oct 3, 2015

I'm looking to convert my ZMR 250 into a T4 Mini, but I like to occasionally use my 3s 2200mah battery with the ZMR. I'm also adding gps antenna a a small servo gimbal for camera pitch as well as other required stuff like receiver FC, switching BEC, VTX. The ZMR flies well with all my junk on it (although a bit more sluggish than my 1500 mah battery), but I really HATE carbon fiber. I keep getting shorts to fram in crashes and plastic is RF transparent. I really like this family or multirotors that you have developed here. I'm wondering if anyone has tried this 315 body with the t4-250 arms. Is this body much heavier? I have 1806 2280fv motors and 5 inch props (Tons of them). Do you think this combo would be too heavy to carry all of my equipment with 5 inch props?

Edit: Looks like someone else in a previous comment has tried this, but never reported back if it works... So I assume that means it did LOL

Jul 22, 2015 - Modified Jul 22, 2015

Hello Brendan, fantastic work. I print it and have some problem with the Bottom Tray. For my Motors i need 20A ESCs.
My Problem is that i have no place for the 4 ESCs. The Bottom Tray must be 5-7mm higher to fit. Can you help with a new (higher)Thing File ? Greetings from Germany.

Hello kaims, I had the same problem with the bottom tray and modified it to fit 30A ESC so it should work for your 20 A ESCs. Take a look at: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:961740

Hope it helps!

T4 Mini 315 modified bottom tray (higher)

Sorry for the delay in replying to this. I am buried in work at the moment so don't have any time for these projects. The source CAD Sketchup file is in the downloads if anyone else wants to have a go at it. Cheers, Brendan.

What were the motors in the video rated(Kv)?

1090kv - link is about 7 posts down :)

Oh, thanks.

Printed with exactly your settingsPLA, 0.25mm layers with 40% infill, 2 shells and 3 top/bottom layers
arms are perfect but will not insert into mini test socket without splitting sides of test socket. either socket too small or arms too fat. should I print the frame anyway, or is there a better way to get these pieces to fit as easily as yours do on your video?

This probably means that you are pushing a bit too much plastic into the job resulting in it squashing out and making the parts bigger than intended. In you slicing software try reducing the extrusion flow rate (eg by 10%) and see what happens. This thing might help to calibrate your printer - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:52946

Calibrate your 3D printer to print parts to fit

thanks, Brendan. i'll give that a try

Hi Brendan,
Fantastic, I admire your work. After a bit of reading, I have started to build the Mini315 as my first quadcopter project.
Can you share the kind of motors that you have used for your model please (specs, etc.)?
I would also like to ask how you are planning to use the posts, post plate and battery pin. So far I have missed to find information on those pieces. Thanks a lot for any reply, Harald

The posts and plate are used for mounting a GPS or receiver - but they also provide some basic protection for your flight controller in case you end up-side-down. The battery pin slides into the slots in the body after you install the body - to stop the battery falling out.

I think I detail the parts I used in the build video on YouTube. The motors I used were Turnigy SK3 2822 1090kv (alhough I had to cut the shaft of these ones http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18151__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_2822_1090kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor.html)

This comment has been deleted.
This comment has been deleted.

does the std. arms from this copter also work with 10" props? seems like those are far more common than the 8"

You'd best best to step up to the full size T4 quadcopter - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:261145

T4 Quadcopter

the problem is, it wont fit on my printbed, otherwise i would have chossen the full size one...

do not bother, i find some props and motors that fit

are arms interchangable?

for ie i want to use 315 body for bigger space with 5 inch arms its little brothers have?

Yes. All of the T4 mini arms are interchangeable.

I finally got this printed, after a good deal of frustration. I was printing with PLA on a Makebot Replicator2 - had trouble with the flat surfaces lifting up (warping).

I typically use tape on my build plate, in order to make the parts easier to remove. When I tried to print these parts without tape it improved the builds, but I still had particular trouble with the main body of the copter. I eventually was able to print it by placing the part perpendicular to the build plate. I don't know why this made a difference, but it apparently did.

Of course, I had a good deal of difficulty in removing the parts from the build plate. But that's hopefully all behind me right now.

THANKS for the great design. Now I need to order the electronics and other parts and get this flying.

I really like the design of this quad but I am having issues. To be fair, I printed in ABS. I started at 30% infill then tried 90%. On the arms where the motors screw into, they are cracking with just the force of the motors. I used your recommended motors. I have not crashed this quad in any way. I have tried the 28mm and then did the 30mm arms but the same thing happened. I thought that the 30mm would work for sure because they looked beefier but no dice. Just sharing my experiences.

I haven't had any trouble using the settings shown in the Instructions however I do use small flat washers under the head of each motor bolt. Perhaps that would help?

Yep, did that too but it didn't help.

3 top and 3 bottom layers? Props balanced?

Yes, I used 3 top and 3 bottom layers and balanced the props. It's strange.

Hmm, I'm about out of ideas. Perhaps use one of the metal "cross" parts that often come with the motors - like one giant washer. Has anyone else got any suggestions?

That's a good idea! I do have the metal cross parts. I will try that and report back. It may take me a few days...

One last thought. If you are using some kind of thread locking liquid (eg Locktite) make sure you don't get any on the ABS: http://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/2hk4ww/psa_dont_use_locktite_on_fasteners_that_will/

You might be onto something there. I did use blue loctite on the motor screws...

Dec 3, 2014 - Modified Dec 3, 2014

the battery slot is compatible with a Turnigy 4000mAh? I can adapt?

Hi Brendan,

Is it the full size T4 that I should be looking at for carrying a gopro? Or will this one handle it? And also what size motors are you using for this model and also the 250?

Thanks,
Ben:)

The full sized T4 would be best if you want to use a gimbal. These smaller ones should be fine for a GoPro by itself - although it's not the most aerodynamic form factor!

As mentioned in the build video I'm using Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 2822 motors on this quadcopter (with 8" props). On the 250 I'm using Lumenier 2206-11 motors with 5" props (see instructions page).

Unfortunately I haven't done any flying for weeks now due to bad weather and to much real-life getting in the way! :)

Hi Brendan,

Is it the full size T4 that I should be looking at for carrying a gopro? Or will this one handle it? And also what size motors are you using for this model and also the 250?

Thanks,
Ben:)

Hi Brendan,

Is it the full size T4 that I should be looking at for carrying a gopro? Or will this one handle it? And also what size motors are you using for this model and also the 250?

Thanks,
Ben:)

Hi Brendan,

Is it the full size T4 that I should be looking at for carrying a gopro? Or will this one handle it? And also what size motors are you using for this model and also the 250?

Thanks,
Ben:)

Hi Brendan,

Is it the full size T4 that I should be looking at for carrying a gopro? Or will this one handle it? And also what size motors are you using for this model and also the 250?

Thanks,
Ben:)

Brendan,

This is awesome work!

Any particular reason you chose PLA ( instead of ABS )?

TIA
Rajnish

I just find PLA easier to work with. Less warping issues - which is important for close fitting parts.

Thanks Brendan - I wonder if PLA is crash resistant compared to ABS as it is more brittle and has less flex.

By all accounts PLA will take more force before it fails - but then it breaks. Whereas ABS will fail a little bit sooner - but only bend (permanently).

Hi! what are the rough dimensions of this quad? Thanks!

If you choose the 7" arms then this quad in 315mm diagonal motor-to-motor center.

Brendan,
Quick Sketchup question? I noticed you built each piece in half segments, When I try and export the STL out of Sketchup, The halfs do not combine correctly. how do combine to make a single component, Are you using Pro?
I built the quad and it flies great. I used the afro 20amp escs and needed to make the bottom deeper for all the wires and bigger capacitors, I have the file in scetchup using your design and it looks great. When i export the file does not export both halves correctly.
Great design, love it. I have not printed the new anti vibe top yet. But i am planning on it.
Thanks
Greg

Hi Greg. I'm just using the free Sketchup Make. When I create STLs I go through the follow steps:

  • Copy the components that will be part of the STL (including any mirror images for half-components) into a new Sketchup file.
    With everything still selected...
  • For the files (like this one) where I've been working at 1000x scale, scale x0.001
  • choose "Explode" to explode any groups and components (repeat if necessary)
  • export to STL
    Extra steps I take...
  • open the STL in Simplify3D and verify the model has no issues (missing or reversed faces, etc)
  • if above found (occasionally) then fix the shrunk/exploded copy of the model and re-export to STL.

Brendan,
Thanks for the help and the great design. The quad flies smooth with KK2.1.5 and Stevies Firmware.

Love this design. Having some trouble with the anti-vibration top assembly. I'm slicing it with Makerware and printing via a Replicator 2x. Both files usually "hang up" around 59-63% and only occasionally export at all. The top that I did get to export only travels on the Z axis for so long before it stops dropping and backs up the extruder.

I've tried many different configs and settings to no avail. Any suggests from anyone on how to fix this?

Otherwise the files print perfectly. GREAT design. Really stoked to try it out.

Hopefully someone with Makerware/Replicator can help out here

...I use Simplify3D software with a MakerGear M2 printer and am not seeing this problem sorry.

Somehow I fixed my problem! I wish I could tell you the glitch but I'm not sure what I did was the trick or if I was making a mistake on my initial attempts. I use rafts for larger prints as insurance but decided not to on the outside chance it would help. For some reason printing without a raft seems to have helped. I'll post a mock-up picture of the make. Looking great so far!

gern - in reply to Torq

I am also struggling to print out the anti-vibration top assembly using Makerware with a Makerbot 2. I have successfully printed 4 arms and the body, but both the anti-vibration top plat and the shallow bottom tray are hanging up at ~59% when slicing. I have tried turning off the raft, but that still hasn't helped. Any suggestions on how to proceed would be most welcome!
Cheers.

gern - in reply to gern

Nevermind. I just need patience. I left it slicing and came back a few hours later and it had finished printing. (This was with a raft.)

what are the cheapest rc part i could get to make this quad copter

Thank you!!
I will get started on printing this out.

Top