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Printable ABP

by Chooch, published

Printable ABP by Chooch Sep 14, 2010

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License

GNU - GPL
Printable ABP by Chooch is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

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Summary

This is a printable Automated Build Platform 1.0 by MBI

This should get the advanced DIY hackers up and running for about $50.

Motor, PET film, gears and Neo magnets can be purchased from MBI.

I have not tried this out yet, so print at your own risk...It should work in theory. More updates to come.

Printable gears have been uploaded. I'm surprised howw fast they printed and that they work being so tiny! Use an M2 set screw for them. I may change the number of set screw holes if people have problems printing...keep me posted

A Pfierce version will also be released soon, with some different
features. Pfierce version: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4189

Update 11/29/10: Now with smaller file sizes. You can all thank Thingiverse user, naldarn for making me seek out and learn Rhino's exporting options. Now you can all enjoy smaller files!

Instructions

Print out the files.

File/sand/cut mating nubs and notches until they fit.

Then epoxy or super glue the multi pieces together.

Use M3 screws and nuts to fasten everything together.

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Thanks for the 18 tooth gears. My ABP was missing a setting bolt, and I ruined one gear trying to glue it. It works nicely, just had to drill the center hole back up to 4mm.

When you use rhino, save with the ascii format, not the binary, and it will save you a lot of space on the stl files.

Actually, I've noticed it's the other way around. Saving in binary is way smaller than Ascii...Also, what was happening, was I would use RepG to center STL files after I exported from Rhino and that would more than double the STL files in size...I don't do that anymore. I just tested it just to make sure... Binary made the test model 3.2mb, Ascii made the file 24mb. I also have the simple planes and pack textures checked...Maybe I'm missing something else when I'm exporting? I really don't know Rhino very well.

I took platform 1 and opened it in rhino, and saved as stl, got it down to 1.7mb. Guess I'm not sure what the difference between our versions is. I'll download the rest when I'm not on a limited download allowance.

I was able to get it down to 1.36mb... I'm pretty sure I used RepG to center these parts then uploaded them...It's faster to use RepG to center parts, but it skyrockets the file size...these were uploaded before I realized that happens.

Try taking the platform 1 file you just exported open it in ReplicatorG, then make an adjustment, like move it slightly over, then save, then check the file size...it becomes a very large file.

I would rather download a small file, then have it expand after I RepG it, than download a huge part. :-D

Okay, I have mastered the art of exporting with Rhino, thank you for the motivation.Everything is now 1mb or under.

Terrific, thanks. How did you get them smaller, as another user of rhino any rhino-fu help is appreciated. ;)

The "Maximum edge to surface" variable under "Polygon mesh options" (advanced export options) was the thing that really made the files smaller. Default it was something like 0.00004xxx i changed it 0.005 that took care of the bloated files. Also, you can check save small and save only geometry at the bottom of the window when you are naming the file...but it doesn't seems to change much if anything.

In Polygon mesh options...

I forgot, also check "simple planes" and "pack textures"...uncheck refine mesh or it will increase the size because the mesh becomes finer.

http://www.rjmrp.com/main/index.php?option=com_contenthttp://www.rjmrp.com/main/inde...
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amp;view=article
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amp;id=97:stl-export
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amp;catid=7:faqsmain
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amp;Itemid=25

Ah ha! Yes binary is smaller...but my maximum edge to surface was a little too tight, that's also the other reason why my files were large. Looks like I have my work cut out for me fixing files on here.

I printed this and it looks great. Even the gears are useable. The only problem is that the holes that fit over the screws on the x y table are backward. So when you set it on the X Y table it faces bakwards.

Wow looks great! I'll fix that issue right away.

My apologizes for being the guinea pig, the issue is now fixed. I can't believe that was the only one...I cranked this model out so fast. I must have been experimenting with putting the brush on the other side and forgot to put it back...oops. Anyways the new files are uploaded and take a look at this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4189http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... in the comments we have some more parts information that you may need. You can also purchase some silicone tubing from twotimes when he gets it in.

Pfierce Robotic Build Platform ver1.0
by Chooch

Quick question... in order to make this work fully you would need:

motor (http://store.makerbot.com/3d-printers/automated-build-platform-1/20-mm-dc-gearmotor.html)http://store.makerbot.com/3d-p...
gears (printed out? or http://store.makerbot.com/3d-printers/automated-build-platform-1/18-tooth-spur-gear.html??)http://store.makerbot.com/3d-p...
relay board from maker store
m3 and m2 bolts and nuts
PET film (http://store.makerbot.
com/3d-printers/automated-build-platform-1/abp-plastic-belt-pack.html???)
heating element?
aluminum heat spreader: http://store.makerbot.com/3d-printers/automated-build-platform-1/diecut-aluminum-tape-heat-spreader.html???http://store.makerbot.com/3d-p...

anything im missing?

great post btw!!!!!

axles and the rubber hose that goes over them and the bushings and plastic washers that go on the axles. if you use the makerbot store version of the PET tape it will be narrower than the printed build platform is capable of fitting on it.. he has also designed a new version of this

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4189http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Pfierce Robotic Build Platform ver1.0
by Chooch

Oh thanks a lot! that helps a lot!

I'm still working on the new version, it had a design flaw. If you can wait maybe one more week i'll have it up and running. Just waiting on my motor and shafts.

How about a zip of the original files (autocad solidworks, rhino) Anyone else think 61 mb is kinda large for an STL that is just a couple of sidewalls?

1mb rhino file coming up. I know the file size gets ridiculous when you change it to an STL...i think i may have the record of the largest file on here at 234mb.

I wonder how it would handle the heat. Plastics have a lot of creep when they enter their glass transition temperature.

This is all a learning process, in my design I won't even have any plastic near the heating traces of the circuit board, but given at what temp ABS melts and that 120 deg c doesn't even really make the ABS mushy I think it may be fine...but we'll see i'll be printing and building one of these this week.

i wonder if you could put the gears on the inside of the frame somehow if you make a wider version (reduce the overall width) in the video that makebot put up it might not be critical to have the wiper, they have tons of ooze when printing the violins and it seems to have gone ok.

That is exactly what I was thinking. From the looks of it I think they can be put inside if we do some motor repositioning.

The future moves fast! 8-)

I want to see an addon to our current hpb setup.. something more sleek than than this.. something maybe integrated to X - Y stage.... (we do have an 3d printers afterall) ... just an idea ;)

I'll try some things with my next design. One feature that i will have is a 100mm belt...I have enough trouble keeping my designs under 100mm, to lose 15mm is devastating with ABP 1.0

make it bigger, i think i can fit 110-115 in the x direction, the Y axis is much more limited in terms of size. i ordered some aluminum to see just how big i can make a hbp, i am just going to bolt it to the top of the existing one with some flush mount screws.

I already have a wider one designed, but when I was checking x-travel limits it will hit when trying to use the filment wiping brush, but if i put the brush on the other side and move it in a couple mm it should work just fine.

Hmmm i forgot the drive gears to add to the overall length...they are going to have to move somewhere else.

In other news I've modeled the gears so they can be printed too and found 1/8 presicion shafts that will work for the roller. I'll have to see if I can find or if we can print the bushings.

definitely don't hot glue this together. the glue will melt from the heated build platform and the whole thing will come apart and cover the pcb with hot glue. ABS cement from the hardware store in the plumbing section is probably the best bet for something like this with the temperatures involved. the heated build plate might soften up the ABS so the tension on the belt might be a problem. you might want to start out at 80
º or so instead of 110-125º that is normally recommended.

Best to use 2 part epoxy

coating the whole top might make it heat resistant

I've done some really neat things covered with Bondo. Or you could use a brushable ceramic like Rescor 780.

I think the sides that keep the belt tight probably wont see much heat, but we'll see. That's what I love about this stuff, all the little engineering problems we have to overcome.

Or you could just dissolve some ABS in acetone and use that as glue. That would probably work just as well as ABS cement.

^ what beak90 said. using abs dissolved in abs is the best glue you can get. you're literally welding the parts together. even if you use 2 part epoxy, all you buy yourself is that the joint will outlive the rest of the ABS. :)

abs in abs?? :-P

I'm thinking ABS desolved in acetone.

i found out the hard way about mixing hot glued parts and the HBP with my makerbotted makerbot..

Awesome, just one thought, will the ABS hold up directly under the HBP?

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