Snap-on Dial Indicator Holder for Replicator 2
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Description
With this clip-on dial indicator holder you will get repeatable results, because you are relying on the extruder rail bushes to position the dial indicator over the levelling screws on the build plate.
UPDATE (13 Feb 2013)
There are two new STEP files which can be imported into other CAD programs. The first can be customised with your own hole size to suit different types of indicators. The other is a blank holder that can be used to design your own attachments.
There is also a new script that automates the process so you don't even have to use ReplicatorG any more to control the process. The gcode has been exported as an x3g file - ready to download to your printer's SD card.
Version 2 of my Clip-on Indicator Holder is compatible with my Replicator 2 Extruder Upgrade thingiverse.com/thing:42250
This indicator holder was designed using an ACIS solid in Shark FX (sfx file included) so will behave well with Makerware, ReplicatorG and skeinforge.
Because a few of you have asked - Paypal donations graciously accepted - whpthomas at yahoo dot com
Instructions
PRINTING
I used my 200 micron ReplicatorG profile thingiverse.com/thing:39050
Infill 30%
Layer Height 0.2mm
Number of shells 2
Once you have finished the print, push the dial indicator into the mounting hole. My indicator's mounting shaft pokes out about 2mm from the bottom.
LEVELLING THE BUILD PLATFORM
First time, run your usual bed levelling procedure. For best results, use a 0.1 mm feeler gauge, or the support card if that is all you have, then run my interactive build platform levelling aid thingiverse.com/thing:39430 to make sure the nozzle offset is just right. This procedure takes a bit of extra time and wastes some filament, but once you have the base layer printing evenly, you can use this nozzle offset to calibrate the dial indicator, so any time in future if you want to re-level your build platform all you need is your clip-on dial indicator to get the same result.
AUTOMATIC LEVELLING
Download the x3g automatic script file and install it on your printer's SD card. DO NOT clip on the holder onto extruder before running the script! Select Build From SD on the printer's menu and run the levelling script. The script will home, then centre and ask you to clip-on dial indicator holder. It will then position over each successive thumbscrew prompting you to make adjustments, and then over the centre. The dial indicator is positioned 0.2mm off the build surface to make sure it clears any residue left on the tip of the nozzle. Finally the script lowers the build plate and asks you to unclip the dial indicator holder - Make sure you do!
I recommend you keep this script on an SD card with all your levelling and calibration objects.
MANUAL LEVELLING
Open ReplicatorG and select Machine->Control Panel from the menu, and set the Jog Mode to 20mm.
Note: If at any time your Replicator 2 starts acting strange, like is has a mind of its own - like you try to drop the z axis and it just keeps going with other axes firing up - Don't Panic - hit the STOP button in the control panel. Exit the control panel, and click Reset, Disconnect and then Connect. This should clear out any gremlins. Not sure why it happens but it does every now and then.
Then do the following:
1) Home all axes (from the menu).
2) Using the jog buttons in the control panel dialog, drop the Z axis and move the extruder along the x axis so its roughly in the middle.
3) Clip on the dial indicator holder by aligning it on the bottom edge and pivoting the top over so the tab clips it into place (see photo). The edge of the tab should rub up against the filament feed tube.
4) Now using the jog buttons in the control panel dialog, position extruder on the x and y axis so the dial indicator is above the rear levelling screw. Then move the Z axis back up until it hits the end stop switch.
5) If this is your first time doing this, zero your indicator - or adjust how far into the holder the indicator is inserted so the zero position is where you want it. On my indicator, I wanted the zero to be at the top, so I adjusted the indicator by wiggling it back and forth while supporting the holder it with my other hand to adjust how far it was inserted. I did this until the needle lined up to the zero marker.
Once you have already done this, you can ignore this step - but leave your indicator alone, so next time you want to level your build plate, your dial indicator holder will be ready to go. This works because this snap-on holder registers against the bottom of the extruder where it clips on, enabling repeatable results. If you need your indicator for other projects, maybe its time to spring for a cheap second one on ebay. I like the mechanical ones better because they provide repeatability, responsive feedback, and the batteries never run out.
6) Use the jog buttons to move the extruder and position the dial indicator over each of the remaining level screws and adjust them to move the build plate up or down until the indicator needle is on zero.
7) Move the nozzle back to the centre and double check the nozzle distance with your feeler gauge.
8) Drop the z axis and unclip the dial indicator holder at the top by lifting the tab and pivoting away to remove.
All up, this procedure takes just a few minutes to level the Replicator 2 build platform, and the results appear to be accurate and repeatable.
WARNING
Don't run the levelling procedure or home the extruder with the indicator attached, or you will crash your indicator into the side of the gantry. So make sure you remember to unclip and remove it when you are done ;)
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I'm probably just being blind (it is 3pm on a Friday, after all), but I can't find the STEP file for the customizable version. I see step files for the extruder upgrade, but not for the indicator holder. Did I miss it?
Hi there i am in happy expectation of my rep2x and already collect upgrades.. i definitely want to level right... but i Might have to adapt it to the rep2x. the step filles here are the same like the mk8 upgrade. could you poste the clip steps plz.
THX from Germany
Can you give me the McMaster-Carr part number for the dial indicator?
Also, to prevent this from crashing into the side if it was accidentally homed, you could add something that would contact the home switch.
I'm having a minor issue. I'm a complete newb. I've been following you here and in the google groups. First of all thank you for all your efforts in making the MakerBot better! I've used a few of your enhancements and they have made using the Rep2 immensely easier.
I have a harbor freight digital gauge and wanted to use your snap on dial indicator, however the hole that the gauge sits in is just a tad too small. The diameter of the harbor freight gauge is 9.5mm, while the hole on your holder v2 is 7.5-8mm. Would it possible for you to enlarge the hole to 9mm? I have no software to modify sfx files.
Would you mind modifying the object or saving it in a format that I can modify in Sketchup or Blender? Thank you so much!
how much tolerance is acceptable for the building plate in your opinion? i am experiencing that, when setting the same level above each of the three screws, in the middle of the plate the distance plate to extruder is somewhat 50-100 microns less than above the screws.
i just printed one. perfectly designed for printing without supports. are you actually using the piece in conjunction with the levelling tool on your replicator or are you just moving the extruder manually?
Very clever. Now to adapt it to fit on a Replicator 1. :-)
Done. http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... . I started with a clip that fit the Replicator, then added a way to mount the gauge to it.
The gauge has a mounting lug (hoop) on the back. I made a bracket for the mounting lug, because (IMO) it makes more sense to mount using the mounting lug than to press the shaft.
On the Replicator 1, the Sailfish firmware has a really nice 'leveling' script. It brings the print bed up, then releases the X and Y stepper motors so you can slide the carriage around freely, which makes leveling a piece of cake. I think they're working on Sailfish for the Replicator 2.
Anyway, thanks for the inspiration.
Is there any chance you could make a clip on to the bottom of this so that you can calibrate the gauge?
I see this solving 2 problems - a) if you bump/drop etc the gauge, all your hard work setting it needs to be redone
b) saves me buying another gauge :)
You could make a little flat spot to write the correct measurement for your gauge too
Would be happy to oblige, but could you please provide a bit more detail / better description of what your after as I am having trouble visualising from your description. The impression I am getting is that you want something like a ruler tab sticking out the bottom that you can so yo can mark with a pen how far in your indicator needs to be inserted. Given that we are talking about 0.01mm accuracy on the dial indicator, I do not think you could re-insert the indicator to the same place by eye and get repeatable results.
If on the other hand you want a physical stop - I don't think this will work because there will be differences between indicator shaft lengths from different manufacturers. I guess I figured that $10 on ebay was not a huge expense so spring for a dedicated indicator for this purpose.
Finally, I have been using mine for a several weeks now - it just sits on the shelf in the holder - and has been clipped on and off my Replicator many times and hasn't budged one bit.
Am I correct in thinking that you MUST NOT TOUCH the position of your dial indicator in the holder once you have set it the first time? If you want to do it again in a weeks time, and get the same position, the dial meter must be in an identical position?
Yes I have updated the description to make that point clearer - its supposed to be a set and forget arrangement - once you have your dial indicator installed and the zero position set for a level build plate, you should be able to snap it in again and get the same result next time.
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What's the reason for recommending Feedrate 40 mm/s and Travel Feedrate 80 mm/s? These are about half of the default. What does the slower feedrate do?
No idea - I think it must have been a typo - I normally print at 80/150 for high quality prints.