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Pokeball (with button-release lid)

by Intentional3D, published

Pokeball (with button-release lid) by Intentional3D Jul 30, 2014
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Summary

Fulfill your childhood dreams of becoming a Pokemon Master with this full sized Pokeball! This model features a hinged lid that opens when the button is pressed and locks shut to allow you to store things inside the ball. It also includes a stand to display your Pokeball.
Once you print all the parts, check out our video on assembly:
http://youtu.be/jvgK3_UdLdg

EDIT: We have added alternate lids for the great ball, ultra ball, and master ball.

EDIT [9/8/2015]: We have added scaled down (20% smaller) versions of all of the parts with modified tolerances for optimal for printing at smaller scales.

Instructions

                                           Instructions:  

You will need:

  • All 6 printed parts
  • Super Glue
  • A small spring ~1.75 cm long (you can find these in ball point pens and mechanical pencils)
  • Sandpaper
  • An extra piece of 1.75 mm thick filament ~2.75 cm long
    .
    Follow this link for a video on how to assemble the Pokeball http://youtu.be/jvgK3_UdLdg
    .
    We printed all of the parts using a 0.2 mm layer height and 10% infill. We used support material for all of the parts. Make sure that you carefully remove all of the support material and sand down the rim of the lid (this is important to get the lid to lock correctly). Make sure to remove the support material from the 3 grooves on the rim of the bottom of the Pokeball as well. It is also a good idea to make sure that the whole assembly works properly before gluing the parts together.

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I appreciate all the variants you have here, but could you add a reference saying what files are needed for what ball?

Im having trouble printing the hinge on the red top. I am printing at 0.2mm with a 0.5mm nozzle at a relatively low speed. I don't usually have problems printing at that layer height. It either doesnt complete the full cylinder shape and/or is just a big blob on the back of the lid. What layer size did you use and do you have any suggestions for my issue? Thanks

Are the Pokeball variants in the files the "regular" size or the "80%" size? If not could you make a 80% version of them?

I am having troubles with the assembly. The button and the spring. The spring is like right at the seam between both parts of the black rim. So hard to get the 2 pieces to come together without the spring coming out first. My solution was to cut up a credit card and slide it inside. Seems to work that way. Anyone know of anything stronger than a piece of filament? Do they make 1.75mm rods somewhere?

Love the design and functionality and I had to print myself one. Putting it together wasn't hard. Thanks!


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I can not slide in the button with spring..so that it goes into the whole. Which makes the functionally for button. Just seems not possible. What am I doing wrong?

I've printed 4 of these so far and something isn't right. I print the ring and button objects in their separate form. Are they different than the file that has them both? The middle black ring parts never match up. I found on the last one that if I trim the heck from the button-ring, it fits much better, but still not flush.

why does the model taper near the top and get so thin? it feels frail and my printer has been struggling to print the top section right.

printing on a printrbot basic metal (takes about 4-6 hours for just the bottom half)

So cool and do you have a printer to recommend

Any chance I could get a top (or whatever you think is best) with a keychain or loop of some sort?

Hi,

This is too cool and I am printing it right now. Takes a bit of time, though :)

I wondered if you could create a slightly upscaled ball that is large enough to hold a deck of pokemon cards? I think that this is an obvious choice for a pokemon deck box.

Thanks for making this public.

Hi. Is it possible to have greatball, masterball, etc at 80%?
Thanks

I need help. For some reason the support material in the center of the pokeball is almost solid so that i have to use wire cutters to get it off. can someone give me ideal slicer settings or some g-code for the parts in ABS?

Hi, I've sliced the lid and the bottom of the sphere with "Slic3r".

Settings :
¤ 45° overhang threshold for support material
¤ 1.75 mm ABS filament
¤ 0.16 mm layer height

And the support material was easy to remove without any tool.

I haven't tried the 10cm version but the 8cm just doesn't work. The ring just doesn't work because the outer lip that's supposed to slip into the loops just isn't thick/long enough. It's so thin that it's hard to print properly in the first place and once you've put (a smaller) spring behind the button, it applies pressure to the ring and the outer lip is too short to secure it firmly into the recessed areas on the loops.
I tried multiple times but I think I might just find an alternate design until the designer fixes this one.

May you please edit the design so that when the pokeball, great ball, masterball, and Ultraball opens the button is on the top half?

Wouldn't it be acceptable to invert colors red/white when you print the lid and the bottom ?

The regular pokeball you could just reverse the colors on the top and bottom ball.

Can you do a pester ball please???

May you please post the files for a scaled down (20% smaller) version of the great ball, masterball, and Ultraball? Thank you.

It's great but you've got it upside down. The button when deployed should be on the red half not the white half. Easy fix, just print the red part white and the white part red.

I haven't tried this but I'd recommend for your hinge filament to make the filament piece that goes through it a little longer than normal so you can melt the ends of it so it won't back out.

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How long time consuming to make????

Hey bud. I'm trying to print this thing and I'm having trouble with the top (red) piece. My problem is with support material. I'm using repetier host with slic3r and the support material is being placed not only on the bottom ring but the entire inside of the bowl as well. Any tips on settings? Support angle degrees? Anything to help me out?

Yeah that's what happened here too, the support in the bowl needs to be printed to ensure it doesn't collapse during the print and the support round the edges needs to be printed to protect the hinge.
Once it had printed i just pulled out the support and used a sanding sponge to sand it all down.

Hope that helps :)

Thanks man. Just didn't know if I was messing anything up

Yeah that's what happened here too, the support in the bowl needs to be printed to ensure it doesn't collapse during the print and the support round the edges needs to be printed to protect the hinge.
Once it had printed i just pulled out the support and used a sanding sponge to sand it all down.

Hope that helps :)

Yeah that's what happened here too, the support in the bowl needs to be printed to ensure it doesn't collapse during the print and the support round the edges needs to be printed to protect the hinge.
Once it had printed i just pulled out the support and used a sanding sponge to sand it all down.

Hope that helps :)

Yeah that's what happened here too, the support in the bowl needs to be printed to ensure it doesn't collapse during the print and the support round the edges needs to be printed to protect the hinge.
Once it had printed i just pulled out the support and used a sanding sponge to sand it all down.

Hope that helps :)

Yeah that's what happened here too, the support in the bowl needs to be printed to ensure it doesn't collapse during the print and the support round the edges needs to be printed to protect the hinge.
Once it had printed i just pulled out the support and used a sanding sponge to sand it all down.

Hope that helps :)

I'm having an issue with the top hemisphere. This is the only section out of all the other parts where it won't print out correctly, it starts at the latch lock then it goes to hell real fast. I thought it might of been the filament but no, it's the model itself.

I am having the same issue. I tried with diferent filments but still goes wrong

I am having the exact same issue.

Apr 17, 2016 - Modified Apr 17, 2016

DO NOT PRINT THE 80% MODEL until the author has fixed it. It has too small a hole for the filament to fit and has too small an allowance for any spring to fit in. The latch to allow the ball to open is too far up and needs a longer button latch. Just a heads up as I wasted too much filament before realizing that it didn't fit :/

Jul 12, 2016 - Modified Jul 12, 2016
GoyGoy - in reply to someoneonly

New files don't seem to have been uploaded since this comment was made (I'm new, so please correct we if I'm wrong). Has anyone had a succesful print and assembly in the 80% scaled edition?

I didn't have any luck. I used a smaller spring but I just can't get the loop to ring to securely slot into the loops. The outer ring of the ring just isn't wide enough. I'm considering customizing this design myself.

I used a paperclip, just cut it to length. Fit pretty snug

The hinge pin is a piece of filament.

Firstly awesome file!

I'm having trouble finding the hinge pin. Is it in one of the files?

It's a piece of 1.75mm filament.

Any chance to make belt clips that clip around the balls.

if i'm making the smaller version of the pokeball is the spring size the same? If not what would you recommend.

Everything printed well, except the red top. It tried to print the hinge part first, and then the ball, but it doesn't build any support material and tries to print in mid air. I clicked the button for supports- but it refuses to. So I tried printing it upside down- but it refuses to listen and STILL tries to print it down- then I tried to print it on the right side, flipping it up- NOPE- still tries to print it down.

I'm using Makerbot 5th gen- I save the file after changing it's orientation and send it to printer from my laptop- and I tried USB printing... won't change orientation or print support material- I'm sorta new so I didn't know if you could offer advice?

I printed the 80% version, but the hinge was too small for a piece of filament. Tried sticking a hot nail through it and the heat deformed the whole hinge. Was the 80% hinge scaled to still allow use with filament, or was I supposed to find something smaller?

I'm wondering the same thing. I'm printing the 80% right now and am thinking of looking for a nail that will just fit the smaller hole so you don't have to heat it up. Unless someone else has a better idea. Subscribing for interest.

I used a paperclip, just cut it to length. Fit pretty snug

i dont feel like destroying pens so im gonna glue it instead

Hey there,
wanted to let you know I made a timelapse of my print of this model, love it!
https://youtu.be/Y8UZBdk6z5Y

Wondering if you'd ever make more lids for this, or if you'd allow others to? I wanna make a few of the more obscure balls using this pattern, such as the heavy ball.

I'm having trouble with the yellow part of the ultraball. The parts that it is based on, the 4 'legs' always get messed up about 3/4 of an inch up. I've tried different settings on he printer to no avail. Any tips?

Comments deleted.

What is the approximate size of the ball at 100% scale?

The bottom is not slicing properly for me. http://imgur.com/Nsjoe8F

What size is this? My printer is only 100X100X100 mm

You can definitely print it.

I really love this design and how well this thing is made however there is big issue with it.
It opens the wrong way.
http://cdn.bulbagarden.net/upload/9/94/Poke_Ball_Interior.png
This is not a big deal for the regular pokeball because all you have to do is print the top in white and the bottom in red and just flip the ball.
But the way that the hinge is designed makes it so the great ball, ultra ball, and master ball can not be simply reversed.
I'm currently printing out the regular 80% scale pokeball and hopefully will finish it soon.
Thank you for hearing my concerns on the design.

Agreed to this! Or make another version that uses this suggestion

Comments deleted.
Oct 12, 2015 - Modified Oct 12, 2015

hey i think that this is a really cool idea and i was wondering if (when i make one) i could sell this on Etsy (i will link whatever you want me to like your thingiverse page or whatever if you are ok with me selling) send me a email as a response telling me your answer. Thanks :)
By the way my email is [email protected]

We released this model under the CC-A-SA license, so you're free to sell this on Etsy (or wherever), as long as you provide appropriate attribution (A link to this Thingiverse page, for example!).

THIS MAKES ME WANT TO CATCH THEM ALL

I see that you made smaller version of the original pokeball. If you could will you please make smaller version for the other models as well?

Sep 12, 2015 - Modified Sep 12, 2015

This is probably the best one on here so far
.
Love the spring button instead of a magnet. Also you know how to subdivide so bonus points there too. lol

Hey, I really love this print and was wondering if you would like to try a sample of our 1.75mm PLA filament and see how it works out! Free filament and free shipping, (United States only) just contact me at [email protected] and I can get you set up! Thanks and great Pokémon print!

It would be cool if you could update the models and make an event ball!

Please split up the buttons so they can be easier printed. It's a pain for everyone to do so. Simplify3d doesn't like the button on it's side either.

thank you!

We've split the button and ring into their own separate files.

im really tempted to do one as a premier ball, i love those things, and it would only mean a change in colour scheme.

I wish the button was two separate pieces. I'd love to lay both the ring and the button it flat.

We've split the button and ring into their own separate files.

May 29, 2015 - Modified May 29, 2015

By the way, I didn't have a wire suitable to connect the hinges so here is what I used instead as replacements:
100% scale - used the thin section section from a lego whip antenna piece.
80% scale - cut a section from the metallic component from a paper clamp.
50% scale - cut a paper clip and slot it through.
hope these help.

Comments deleted.

Love the model! I printed all the pieces using the standard settings (10% infill and 0.2mm layer height) but I recommend printing at around 80% of the original scale - the original model is pretty big and difficult to wrap your hand around it and the 80% scale is still amazing (plus less print time). Also when printing, I recommend using rafts as well as the supports. Printing the ultraball right now with the specs mentioned above and it looks completely fine! Once again, amazing model.

Comments deleted.

I have two questions 1.) how long does it take to print this project? and 2.) do you have to paint it at all? the 3d printer i am using is the maker bot replicator 2

Makerbot Desktop should give you a reasonably accurate print time. I never wrote down how long it took. No you do not need to paint it. As long as you have white black and red you can print the parts out separately.

It's great!! I'm going to print right now!

Thanks! and thanks for photos and videos

I can't print the loops effectively.
The arc is messy, its rough and not smooth. Plus the groove for the button brim to fit in is not smooth enough for a nice fit. Are there any settings I should change?

Comments deleted.

I give up on this project. I literally cannot print any of these without curling. I even spent the time to figure out how to print with my print bed at room temp, and it still would curl. Any help would be great, but until I figure out a way to counteract that, I will look at this as a failed project.

Apr 1, 2015 - Modified Apr 1, 2015
Stefan57 - in reply to BTK7

I print using PLA at 210C and BB at 50C with support. All parts printed without any problem.
I use a glass bed that I paint with a thin mix of white wood glue and water ( 50-50 mix roughly) to get it to stick nice...
BTW, I'm using Simplify3D, great software :-)

Simplify3D is the solution for any printing problem! It's a superb slicing program but not free.

Comments deleted.

all of your projects seem really cool. I hope you'll keep making more

Thanks! All of your comments are super nice! Keep making more!

I seem to be having some trouble printing the top and bottom domes on my MakerBot, it only prints a small thin ring of the bottom sections of the domes and then does not continue further, do you have any suggestions on how to fix this?

I had the same problem. Just finished printing bottom one. The trick was to open the original STL in Blender, and subdivide it once.

Either the STL has some issues (I didn't try to export without any change to test this), or Cura has a bug. I have Cura 15.04 and Printrbot.

Thanks i3D for great model.

I hate to bother you, but I wonder if you could give more details on how you did that in Blender. I am new to 3d printing and the Blender interface is a little overwhelming. Where did you find the options to do what you did?

I have a suggestion for u. why dont u put a card holder on the inside of the pokeball? just saying. my little bro likes pokemon so i want this so he can put his cards in the the pokeball.

We just uploaded a new deck box. Check it out!

has anyone had trouble printing this? ive been printing other things and they print fine but when i try to print the ball lids for this. it makes my printer stop like 85% through...

I am using cura

Awesome! Came out great! As a side note, I noticed you for the buttons, you printed the rectangular shaped pieces (the actual button) on its side. My print was more consistent when I printed it flat. (although this is because my support must have slipped off when printing it on its side)

Thank you!

Worked extremely well and scales well. A simple & effective print. I didn't use the spring-loaded button, but it worked out fine all the same.

Cool pokeball. Maybe you could 3D print a pokemon to go inside the pokeball.

Nov 13, 2014 - Modified Nov 13, 2014

Uggg, this thing is a pain to print and build. Lining up and glueing is just a pain, there must be a simplified way Maybe, the white shell could have 2mm diameter pins in four spots that link the bottom shell to the inner ring, and the inner ring needs to be one piece.

Okay, I have fused the rings using TinkerCAD. I will do a test for fit in the next day or so. If the new ring works, I will add some pins to the white shell that will go through the back ring to making gluing easier too. The button had to be reworked too, but that was easier to fix. The button now is in two different parts square part with spring and round part that attaches with peg after you slide the square part into the back middle ring...I just made the white ring part as part of the new black ring

I know this is asking a lot. But can you make another one at 9cm diameter instead of the 10cm diameter it is now. I would simply scale it in maker ware but then the hinge and button wouldn't work with the raw filament and spring since they cant be scaled.

Teach a man to fish they say... Go here: http://www.wings3d.com/. Download and install. Then do one of the following:
Scale just the hinge portion UP in wings, then scale DOWN in makerware (110% and 90% respectively) OR
select everything but the hinge in wings and scale down by 90%

wow. Not only a great idea (even more great now that Pokémon Go has been release), but making me aware of Wings3d......

I cant do that. It would screw up the integrity of the circle for the lid. The hinge overlaps some of the lines of the circle so if I scale everything but the hinge down the hinge would look like it is bulging out of the back of the lid. The other thing I've noticed is that the black rings are two times too thick. around the button the are lets say 5 mm. but then going around the ball when you have the two rings on top of each other it adds up to 10 mm. I think it would look better if you fixed that. Again these aren't easy fixes because the lid and bottom lid would also have to be remolded to make up for the gaps. I can do some modelling but if I wanted to make these changes it would almost be easier for me to start from scratch. I would think since you have all the source files and a better grasp at 3d modeling it could be easier for you to do.

Hi! I'm new to 3D printing. How do I input 10% infill in the file?

What program are you using to slice the .stl (convert it to g-code for printing)?

I use Slic3r.

I am not familiar with that program. However, 10% infill is just a suggestion not a requirement. Any infill amount should work (though less infill will mean a faster print).

In the newest version of repetier-host (1.0.0) the slicer bundled (1.1.6) does not generate support material for the hinge holes or the alignment pits. This ends up working great as you don't need to melt it out. I've been having trouble getting a good print on the inner surfaces of the dome but the outside is looking great. im almost done printing all the parts. just the button + ring left.
Awesome Model!

Thanks for the feedback! Good tip about Repetier-Host, we may have to check it out if it's a bit smarter about supports.

We'd love to see a picture when you finish yours!

What softwre do you use?

The Pokeball was modeled entirely in Blender.

You said full size, what is that exactly? Is it 8cm in diameter because that is what i think full size is?

We didn't know the real world size of the Pokeball so we made it 10cm in diameter. It should print properly if you scaled it down to 8cm, though you might run into problems with the filament not fitting in the hinge.

I finished it but a few things happened, some my fault. First, the spring was too powerful and when glued the 2 rings together and pushed the button, the spring broke through the back of the ring. second, the hinge broke off while inserting the piece of filament. There was quite a bit of cracking in the rings but I think that was because of the filament being a bad brand. Will post pictures.

Aug 2, 2014 - Modified Aug 2, 2014

I was able to get this to fit together and come out pretty great but I do have a question. Is there any way for this to be altered so that the two black pieces can be attached besides just glue and estimated alignment. I failed a few times before doing it the way I described in my "make". I love the design and this was the only issue I had.

Aug 3, 2014 - Modified Aug 3, 2014
Intentional3D - in reply to alexlfarlow

I have added two new part files: Loop_Top ALTERNATE and Loop_Bottom ALTERNATE. These modified loop parts have 3 sockets on the inside rims of the loop parts and the Loop_Top Alternate part prints with 3 pins. Simply glue the pins into the sockets on one of the loop parts and then match up the pins with the sockets on the other loop part. (If you use support material, remember to remove it from the sockets)

Can't print the top half because upside down theres not enough of a footprint to stick to the bed and upside right the hinge holds the actual sphere off the bed so it can't print. :(

You need to print the top half right side up with support material. Then remove the support material and use sandpaper to make sure that the rim is smooth. If you don't get the support material off completely then the lid might not latch correctly. Also be sure to remove the support material from inside the hinge. You can either drill out the support material or find a metal rod (we used a hex key) and heat up one end with a lighter and use it to melt the support material out.

Can you up load an Stl with the Supports where they should be or did you just your printer auto support

Aug 9, 2014 - Modified Aug 9, 2014
3dfirst - in reply to Intentional3D

How do you print it on its side? I use slicer to get the g code and it is not on its side? Also I am new to 3d printing so do we need to turn any of the other parts? Thanks

Which part are you talking about? All of the stl files are oriented in the way they should be printed. All of the parts except for the stand use support material.

Ah okay thanks. I printed the bottom half and got worried I wouldn't be able to print the top.

Very good design! Imma print this right now!

Great! let us know how it goes!

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