Loading

Makerbot Replicator Custom Slicing Profile

by emhughes, published

Makerbot Replicator Custom Slicing Profile by emhughes Jan 10, 2013

Description

I've had some problems getting my prints to stay flat on the build plate and / or stick to the build plate with my Makerbot Replicator 1. I know that others have to and that solutions have been difficult to find. My solution is to create a custom slicing profile with these raft settings.

This method takes longer and uses more plastic for rafts but works consistently.

I have an updated version that works better: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:102619

Recent Comments

view all
Blocking the airflow with kapton tape worked wonders. Thank you!
Let me know how you make out, I don't even need to 'trap' heat with acrylic panels nowadays since I put kapton tape under the fans. Only time I have issues is when my bed isn't level. Aside from that, I only need rafts when I want supports.

One thing I suggest you research is called brims, in Slic3r we use brims instead of rafts (think of a top-hat brim), it leaves a smooth bottom with a wide brim 1-layer thick - uses less plastic than rafting (and faster).
I have heard of this working very well and I will try it. Thank you!

More from 3D Printing

view more

Liked By

view all

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag. Print Thing Tag

Instructions

I use ReplicatorG.

In ReplicatorG go to "Edit Slicing Profiles..." in the "GCode" menu.

Select "Replicator slicing defaults" and click "Duplicate..."

Enter a name for your new profile and click "Ok"

The Skeinforge Settings window will open.

Select "Craft" and then "Raft".

Change all of your settings to match mine.

"Support Cross Hatch" is optional. Try this on or off and see which works better for the types of things you print.

When you are done changing your settings click "Save All" and close the window.

Click "Done" in the "Edit Profiles" window.

You can always edit your profile again later.

Open the file you want to print and position it on the platform.

Click "Generate GCode" and make sure that your slicing profile is selected.

Then enter your print settings.

Object infill: 8% Layer Height: .25mm Number of Shells: 2 Feedrate: 40mm/s Travel Feedrate: 55 Print Temperature: 225

Before you print click the "gcode" tab.

Change M109 S110 T0 (set HBP temperature) to M109 S115 T0 (set HBP temperature).

[T0 uses right extruder, T1 uses left extruder]

A great reference is http://wiki.bitsfrombytes.com/index.php?title=Skeinforge_Raft

Did you try blocking the airflow under the extruder fans? I had to use rafts on EVERY print when I first got my Replicator. It wasn't until I placed a strip of kapton tape under the extruder fans that I finally fixed the issue. It seems those fans are blowing air directly onto the print and cooling it down too fast. Aside from that, I use acetone to clean the surface before prints.

Now my prints stick so hard I can't even remove them sometimes!
I have heard of this working very well and I will try it. Thank you!
Let me know how you make out, I don't even need to 'trap' heat with acrylic panels nowadays since I put kapton tape under the fans. Only time I have issues is when my bed isn't level. Aside from that, I only need rafts when I want supports.

One thing I suggest you research is called brims, in Slic3r we use brims instead of rafts (think of a top-hat brim), it leaves a smooth bottom with a wide brim 1-layer thick - uses less plastic than rafting (and faster).
Blocking the airflow with kapton tape worked wonders. Thank you!
Top