Pfierce Robotic Build Platform ver1.0

by Chooch, published

Pfierce Robotic Build Platform ver1.0 by Chooch Sep 26, 2010


The PRBP is a derivative of the MBI ABP 1.0 and the Printable ABP. It can be printed and used to do continuous printing, to turn your bot into a desktop factory.

It features a 100mm x 100mm build platform and a tensioner, plus you get to keep your cool LED's and last but not least... all the pfierceness you'll ever need with it's awesome teeth!

I'd like to thank Twotimes aka Aaron Double of DoCo Design for helping me tweak and test this design while my bot was down. Contact him if you need 8mm tubing for the platform, or if you need a new Kysan extruder motor. Supplies are limited!

Gcode has been uploaded, this pops of prints with a pfierceness. You may need to edit the gcode depending on how you are set up.

**Update 4/07/11:I've revised the side's motor holes to slots, so you can adjust the gear mesh from roller to motor, this reduces gear slipping, strips and breaks. I added a file with just the new sides to save some plastic. Also, the files are half the size of the old ones...technology keeps making things smaller and smaller :) Deleted the old files to give thingiverse 3Mb of room back.

I'm also working on an extrusion catcher for this.

Happy printing and check back for updates.

Recent Comments

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Thank you. I did not realize it was in there until you've mentioned. Great design by the way.

I never made its own file, its combined into the sides files. I did that because its a small piece and it printed better.

Where is the STL file for the little piece that holds the side together?

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Steampunk Single Digit Nixie Clock II


Pfierce Robotic Build Platform ver1.0 by Chooch is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

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Print the 4 nested prints.

Assemble pterodactyl side pieces. Some filing may be required for them to fit together nicely. Press in M3 nuts into all captive nut holes.

Take a MBI laser cut build platform and attach the sides to the platform with M3 screws.

Insert 20mm Kysan gear motor in motor mount and screw down with M2 screws.
(M2 screws don't come with the motor a good source is old Sony products if you have some laying around)

Insert Pfierce plate into pterodactyl mouth. Some pfiling may be required. Use M3x16 screws for pterodactyl eye to keep the plate in his mouth.

Insert a m3x4 screw in second hole in the top of the side that doesn't go all the way through. Take a small piece of silicone tubing and put it over the head, then pie cut the tubing into sections. Wallah, you now have a filament cleaner that won't scrape Teflon coated nozzles.

Put heated build platform and heat spreader on top and attach with counter sunk screws.

Print belt pdf file at proper scale on 8.5x11 paper. Cut out pattern and use to cut .005 thick kapton belt. Tip: you may want to use your paper pattern on the platform first to see if everything is working, before you ruin the kapton.

Cut 8mm 0D x 100mm silicone tubing twice and put over two shaft. Use some glue to keep it from slipping around the drive shaft.

Press bushing into belt tensioner blocks (the small triangular pieces)

Put bushings on two 3mm shafts and press into side pieces, front and back.

Insert tensioning rod through middle slot of sides. Use triangular tension blocks to hold in place. Don't screw it down just yet.

Put a gear on motor shaft and front roller shaft. You may need to glue them on if they slip...also if they skip on you try printing them .02mm bigger.

Insert belt through and around pull tight and tape then set tension on middle roller. It might take a few tries to get it just right.

You may also want to use shaft collars on the ends of the shafts to keep them from walking around.

Update your skeinforge profiles with the new gcode.

Center the platform and try to print a newly "skeined" 20mm test box.

After you successfully master one print. Then copy the code from right after were the start code ends and onward. Go to the end of the g code and paste. You should now have two sets of 20mm g-code...then try to print two consecutive prints.

You now have an automated printing powerhouse!

These instructions are still a work in progress.


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Bluemetal on Apr 27, 2011 said:

Where is the STL file for the little piece that holds the side together?

Chooch on Apr 27, 2011 said:

I never made its own file, its combined into the sides files. I did that because its a small piece and it printed better.

MarcusWolschon on Apr 14, 2011 said:

How much maintenance does your automated build platform need when used for a series of prints?

How long do the kapton-belts usually last? How much do they strech?

Chooch on Apr 14, 2011 said:

Little to no maintenance at all. The .005" thick kapton belt has been on for 6 months (since I built it) without any problems. I do run blue painters tape on it and have to change that out maybe every 2 months. I haven't seen any stretching. The biggest problems were the printed gears stripping or slipping or the silicone tubing on the belt drive shaft slipping, but some epoxy of the shaft has since fixed that.

Mike77 on Jan 31, 2011 said:

In the process of building this, ran into a question: Has anyone tried Pyralux instead of Kapton? Since it's pretty much copper clad Kapton, I wonder how it would do?

Going to try it unheated to see how it does mechanically, then I'll try heating/cooling cycles...
Any thoughts on other tests or things to watch for?

Chooch on Jan 31, 2011 said:

Nope, haven't tried Pyralux.

Watch for bushings or shafts popping out and gears stripping if you're using the printed gears.

Chooch on Nov 4, 2010 said:

If your gears strip or are not meshing well, try scaling them up by .02mm in repG. They seem to print and mesh better when they are a little bit bigger.

Chooch on Nov 30, 2010 said:

I made the adjustment to the gear file so you don't need too. Also I'm working on a beefer set of gears, since I've broken the current design twice during rigorous testing.

twotimes on Oct 23, 2010 said:

Looks like the Nylon 6/6 spacer that's used with the ABP is www.mcmaster.com search for 90062A005

twotimes on Oct 28, 2010 said:

I'm wrong, it's 91145A143 (now I have 100 of the wrong size... sigh)

twotimes on Oct 23, 2010 said:

The Kysan motors are the ones without the circuit board.

twotimes on Oct 23, 2010 said:

There's a motor in the box, happy printing. Should get to you by Monday.

twotimes on Oct 23, 2010 said:

The parts are in the box to.

Anonymous on Oct 15, 2010 said:

Where did you get your kapton belt?

twotimes on Oct 15, 2010 said:

I did www.mcmaster.com part no. 2271K3 (like the kapton that comes with the heated build platform)

you could go thinner though - part no. 2271K2

Chooch on Oct 13, 2010 said:

Well, I
’m on my 8th revision...I've been using the PRB just to print not automated parts removing) on to see how it holds up and because the holes that the M3 screw heads pilot in are not cut to laser precision (or maybe during cleanup I opened them up a bit too much) I get a lot of movement and vibratio
n when printing small things and sometimes it knocks the parts off the base.

So I’ve decided to integrate the laser cut build platform into the design. Everyone should have one already and it makes the platform even more rigid, pilot better on to the y-platform and further reduces the parts cou

Mike77 on Oct 15, 2010 said:

Very eagerly awaiting the finished product.

Chooch on Oct 8, 2010 said:

I found cheaper metric polymer bushings at www.sdp-si.com

Part Number: S99GGFM030503

They have 3mm x 120mm shafts, but they cost more:
Part Number: S40PX0MHG3M-120

The real problem is finding 3mm ID X 8mm OD hose for a reasonable price and not having to buy it overseas.

I wish MBI sold the hose and bushings ala cart.

twotimes on Oct 9, 2010 said:

Check out part no. 5041K12 at www.mcmaster.com

3mm ID x 8mm OD high temp hose at $1.03 a foot. It's red too.

twotimes on Oct 7, 2010 said:

You know what I'd like? Some way to adjust the tension on the belt.

Chooch on Oct 8, 2010 said:

I've been thinking the same thing and I may have a solution.

Chooch on Oct 6, 2010 said:

This is proving to be very difficult to get just how I want it. I've been wasting a lot of plastic to get this just right before I re-release it.

dietz1 on Sep 29, 2010 said:

nice work. 8-)

Chooch on Sep 27, 2010 said:

Okay, I think I have it fixed now, the motor should not hit the x stage anymore.

Sadly we lose almost all the z axis savings I put into the design, however it has a little less z axis footprint than the MBI ABP.

I will be removing the old files later and will upload the new ones after I get everything up and running.

I apologize for releasing a design too soon, it won't happ
en again.

Anonymous on Sep 27, 2010 said:

Does this mean Repraps can print conveyors to continuously print more repraps?!! Amazing!!!

Chooch on Sep 27, 2010 said:

Yes robots building smaller robots, to help build other robots... inside a robot?!

Starno on Sep 27, 2010 said:

I'm liking your cross beam idea for minimizing heat. Did you spec out a different motor to drive the belt though? It doesn't appear the one you listed is going to Pfit without x-stage interPference.

Chooch on Sep 27, 2010 said:

Good eye! You are right I just checked and there is interpference...this is why i should really go back to waiting to release something until I fully build it and I should always model everything to see things like that. Thank you! I'll have to create a spacer to raise the platform up so it will clear and I'll probably change the knock plate a bit.

ChrisGray on Sep 27, 2010 said:

what program did you create the STL files with?

Chooch on Sep 27, 2010 said:

I used Rhino 4.0

MakerBlock on Sep 26, 2010 said:

This is sweeeeeet!

MakerBlock on Sep 26, 2010 said:

I also really like the teeth...

moleofproduction on Sep 26, 2010 said:

I came for the ABP, but stayed for the Pfierceness.

beak90 on Sep 26, 2010 said:

Awesome! I think I'm gonna add a motor and a HBP to my Makerbot order :)

Does the hbp soften the abs at all?

Chooch on Sep 26, 2010 said:

The ABS does not soften, it barely gets warm.

As you can see from the new picture I uploaded. I got rid of all the plastic that's beneath the HBP and I just have trapezoidal crossbeams. This is an improvement on my previous design to save plastic and to keep the plastic from heating up.