Loading

OB1.4 open beam 3D printer

by Wired1, published

OB1.4 open beam 3D printer by Wired1 Jan 13, 2013

Description

This is my second printer design and is based on my first printer the OB1 with a reengineered top end. The 1.4 features greatly increased build height and now has a massive build volume of 200mm x 200mm x 200mm (8" x 8" x 8") with an open front design yet is still 100% printable on an existing reprap printer.

The aim here was to make a larger volume printer that did not need specialist parts, laser cutting or CNC machinery to make. The 1.4 designation comes from the new side frames resembling the number '4'.

If you have already built the earlier OB1 printer you can reuse a lot of the original plastic parts as well as all of the extrusions although this new printer uses less extrusion and some will require shortening.

The x-axis ends and carriage are now included but have not yet been tested hence the "work in progress" label.

I may yet design a standard x-carriage to take a Wades type extruder but if anyone else wants to have a go the X-axis rails are 55mm spacing 8mm diameter linear rods.

Recent Comments

view all
Sorry, can't remember getting it. Resend it if you like but if it's asking me to redesign parts or resize it for larger rods or longer spans then don't bother as I have stopped further developing this printer thanks.
I sent you an email but i haven't heard back from you yet. What's going on?
hey how do u guiys deal with the counter weight on the X axis,. the side were the motor is seems to be pulling up the other side slightly. how to do you resolve that

More from 3D Printers

view more

Liked By

view all

License

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag. Print Thing Tag

Instructions

Build trays here: thingiverse.com/thing:51593

Full assemble instructions are available on YouTube here:
Part 1: youtu.be/WR5EMgwua-Q
Part 2: youtu.be/PiuRKRwRDCY
Part 3: youtu.be/vGVZhLTLnB4
part 4: youtu.be/4_iULqEEOrE

(Full BOM is included in the file list in excel and tab-delimited formats)

Open beam extrusions required:
1 x top rail 420 mm long
8 x front/rear/side and upright rails 330mm each
2 x diagonal rails 297mm each

These can be cut from 4 x 1m lengths of Open Beam extrusion.
Mitre-box here: thingiverse.com/thing:32668

Linear rods:
X-axis 8mm x 450-500mm long
Y-axis 8mm x 390mm long
Z-axis 10mm x 450-500mm long

Hardware:
4 x 10mm LM10UU bearings
8 x 8mm LM8UU bearings
2 x 608 bearings
80 x M3 x 8mm hex socket machine screws
10 x M3 x 10mm hex socket machine screws
80 x 3mm washers
80 x M3 nuts

I have also included the drawing of the 5mm aluminium plate I recommend you use for the y-carriage along with the y-carriage design OB14Y1 included here plus these bed adjusters: thingiverse.com/thing:29782

You will also need an extruder, I am using my small footprint extruder from here: thingiverse.com/thing:30951 as a pusher.

If you use the build trays from here: thingiverse.com/thing:51593 they include the pusher and extruder parts in the trays as well as the y-carriage.

File Name

Downloads

Size

hey how do u guiys deal with the counter weight on the X axis,. the side were the motor is seems to be pulling up the other side slightly. how to do you resolve that
Wired1, which version of heeks were you using to design? I want to tweak the design a bit for the X motor/idler. Openscad is angry about something with the stl files so I can't import/hack on them there and netfab doesnt seem to repair it well enough for openscad ( slicer has no trouble, so I'm not really sure whats up there )
This was done using Heeks 0.19.0 I'm not sure if there is a later version - unfortunately development of Heeks seems to have been stopped some time ago which is a pity as it is an excellent design tool. See heeks.net, or for source code: code.google.com/p/heekscad/
I sent you an email but i haven't heard back from you yet. What's going on?
Sorry, can't remember getting it. Resend it if you like but if it's asking me to redesign parts or resize it for larger rods or longer spans then don't bother as I have stopped further developing this printer thanks.
Could you send me the steps of this printer ? i want to make 1 but i want some small ajustments
I'm really interested in building one of these - I've been looking at other designs and kits and nothing has the build volume I need. Is there a source anywhere for the 3D printed parts for an OB1.4? Unfortunately, there's no 3D printers near me - in fact if I built this, it'd be the only 3D printer within 60 miles.
Hey very nice printer!
I Wonder if you have 20 x 20 extrusions files, because here in France it's very difficult to find 1515I aluminium extrusions...
Thanks in any case! ;)
Hey. I was wondering if you could answer some questions i have.
1. What firmware are you using for the Arduino?
2.My stepper motors wire are Blue,Green,Yellow,Red. Where do i connect the too? Like 2B 2A 1A 1B
Where did you guys get your stepper motors from?
Thank You! I saw these before but they didn't have a form of payment i could use.
I'm looking at this design for my first 3D Printer. I don't have a printer, so I need to find someone to print out the parts. How much filament should I budget for for the complete set, and what's a reasonable price to pay (in USD) for a complete set? Thanks!
checkout the site makexyz.com its local people with 3dprinters offering thier printers to print whatever you want.
Thanks for the info! Now to estimate the total volume of the parts to get a ballpark cost.
I wish to build an open beam with 400 x 200 bed. I believe i will require 10 mm rods. Could you please tell me the centre line distances for x axis motor mount. These are the vertical mounts for OB1.4 I will be using your open beam components which I have printed. Thank you for your fantastic designs.
I am working through the BOM doc, seems OBXblock3cS.STL is missing. Guessing this part is needed still yes?
Use the part OBXblock1, it is the same part :)
Thanks!
Does anyone know how I can use my 6x6 heated bed on this? Also, where can I get the aluminum piece?
Better to buy an 8x8 heater but no reason why you couldn't use your smaller one. The alloy bed is just a piece of 6mm or 1/4" thick aluminium (aluminum) cut to size. I had several water jet cut and the the DXF file is included in the parts files above but I have made them by hand with a hack saw before. Find a local aluminium wholesaler and see what they have in their scrap off-cuts bin.
Mine is printing very well, but I'm getting some minor strings between parts and blobbing. I'm using slic3r/marlin. I'm curious as to what other's are using for retraction distance/speeds for their bowden setups, or if you've had similar issues, what was your solution?
I am thinking I am going to build this design next, however i want to shoot for a print bed of 12x12". What parts would need to change? I would guess only the angle bracket on the top as the geometry would be a bit different.
See Hossmachines variation here: thingiverse.com/thing:50968 it has a 14"x14" build area and he seems to have it working well. I never intended it for that large but if you make all the extrusions longer it should work with the standard parts as they are.
Hi!
Someone has the possibility to stamp for me the pieces of the OB1.4??

Obviously paying the necessary one.
I don't know whether to retrieve the presses...

Thanks
Michele
Where are you located? Perhaps i can print it all, i'm from the Netherlands.
Beautiful! Thanks for the availability!
I write from Italy. Probably I will also purchase from the Netherlands the bars "open beam"!
I write a private message, if I succeed.
Wired1: Any idea when you might have the fully 10mm extruded design done with connecting parts CAD drawings? I'm seriously considering building one of these, but not sure how far out that might be. If you think you'll have a design for an "improved" printer in a few months, then I'll wait to start getting components together or plastic parts printed for me. If you think it might be only a few months out, then I may ask for a list of the parts in the BOM that would change, and start ordering those that will not change and start piecing this thing together. I saw one of these printers in action and I was hooked right away. Thanks for sharing your design with all of the component drawings for parts that can be 3D printed! That's a huge help!
I've really been enjoying this printer, I probably have 3500 to 4000 meters worth of filament with a Budaschnozzle hot end with no issues. I've used it to print a copy of itself which a friend is using. I used the Wade style direct extruder carriage which has worked out pretty well, but is a bit heavy. I'm printing out parts for converting this one to use dual Bowden pushers (wired1's, I just mirrored the .STLs for the second pusher) and downeym's dual E3D carriage which I finally got printed right after flipping the STL on it's end. Thanks again for sharing this design, here's a video of the setup at the moment after 100's of hours of use. youtube.com/watch?v=TXt9zTjzf88
Does anyone have any extra M3 x 50mm screws, M3 x 12mm screws, M3 x 20mm screws, M4 x 20mm screws, M8 x 50mm bolt, M8 standard washers or M8 fender washers i can have?
If you can't find any locally, try McMaster Carr. If you don't like their prices, try Ebay.
I found. I just didn't feel like paying for way more than i needed.
Do i need smooth linear rods? If so which part do i get it for?
Also, on the instructions it says i need M3 x 10mm hex socket machine screws but on the BOM it doesnt say M3 x 10mm anywhere?
It's difficutl for those who doesn't have money and cutting tools to make x-shape aluminum plate.

Can I use square plate istead of it?
Check with those in your trade schools or colleges. Chances are, some department has a laser or water jet cutting capability and the need to run a student through their paces. That's what I intend to do.
I used a rectangular piece of MDF, which works fine as well.
Yes, the reason some people use x-shaped plates is to reduce weight. But using a piece square piece of aluminum, steel, wood, etc. will work just fine. It's more important for it to be flat. Having a flat plate will save you a lot of trouble.
I can't see to find the Bill Of Materials. Can Anyone help me out?
Yes it's called OB14_BOM.XLS under the "Thing Files" tab above. It is Excel format but you can read it with Open Office
Thank you! I didn't realize excel is .xls
Thank you for your great design. What kind of stepper motor do you use?
does anyone have a source for the leadscrew and nuts that fit this carriage design?
From what I can see Techpaladin is selling 6.35mm acme lead screws which is equivalent to North American 1/4" acme rod. However, his website says it has a "thread pitch" of 1.5875mm, but I think he means a "lead" of 1.5875. This means the load travels 1.5875 mm/rev. Perhaps Wired1 could confirm with Techpaladin if he means lead or pitch. If the travel is indeed 1.5875 mm/rev than it converts to 1/4"-16 acme rod.
Yes Nate at TechPalidin has them and they are the bollocks. You can also use a standard M8 threaded rod and nut or imperial equivalent.
Yes Nate at Techpaladin.com has the 6.25mm Acme lead screws or you can use M8 threaded rod as well, the nuts are the same size.
I have the printer up and running and it is printing quite well now, but I am getting a fair amount of banding on the Z axis. do you have any suggestions?
I had to lengthen the vertical extrusion members by 40mm to use this rod, otherwise it would hit the top mounting bracket. it still seems quite sturdy though and I suppose no one ever complained about having more build height... :)
great... I just ordered a set and the rest of the ob1.4 parts are printing as we speak...

thanks!
Hmm, Just found that OB14Y1.stl won't fit on the only 3D printer that I have to had. a makerbot Cupcake. Its only got a build area of 100 mm^2 Is there any way around this? Scaling it won't work (for obvious reasons).
I have mine screwed into MDF.

So starting with a piece of MDF,
you could build something like this:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:47329

using 4 of these: thingiverse.com/thing:30365

just watch your height of the bed so it clears the front/back frame.
Good call! Thanks that saves that headache! :)
We're loving our OB1.4, it's been printing for a couple of days now and turning out great parts. Thanks for doing the design! There are just a couple of things we want to tweak, along with one big upgrade - we want dual extruders. We have two J-Heads ready to go, and I am working at adapting an i3 carriage for them, but I'm trying to work out exactly how far apart the X-axis smooth rods are. My best measurements say 54 mm center to center, is that correct?
cla - in reply to owens
No, center to center is 58 mm
Wired1 - in reply to cla
Yes thanks cla, 58mm centre to centre.
owens - in reply to Wired1
Sorry - I was using 58 mm in my design, just remembered it wrong. Thanks for confirming!
What size filament are you using with your printer?
3mm although I'm seriously thinking about changing to 1.75 for the increased speed and reduced strain on the gear.
I'm trying to use 3 as well, but I'm having problems with it clogging/jamming. The first couple of layers work fine, then it seems to clog up. I'm still experimenting with temp/feed rates, but I was thinking that the 1.75 may work better with the bowden tube - and possibly that you were using 1.75.
I am using 3mm as well with no clog up's on some filament I have track the problem down to the PTFE Tubing having no room for tolerance in the 3mm filament.

My solution is to buy 3.18mm ID PTFE tubing will let you know how this go's
I fixed some of the clogging by replacing the liner in the jhead, but then the ptfe tubing pulled out of the nut on the extruder side. The slightly larger tubing may help as that would reduce the friction of pushing the filament (and the pressure on the nuts as well). So you may need to check the nuts on the ptfe as they may have pulled (and weaknd the threads) during a clogging event.
I am using push fittings with mod clamps at each end so i don't have to worry about it.
I was looking at those push fittings. Did you have to reprint a part or drill out an existing part?
To get it printing I drilled out one end and did a quick fix to on the other.

Since then I have modified the CAD files one of the ends seems to work fine but I have not printed the other end yet when I have printed and test I will upload the mods.
Lincolnep - How'd it go with the push fittings? I got my hands on a couple so I may do the same thing. I've got a .5mm nozzle coming this week, so hopefully that will fix my problem. But I'm interested in the push fittings as well, so if that work, I may reprint from updated CAD files.
I can upload 1 of them as I have tested it and I am happy with it.

It is the end attached to the extruder I will upload it today!

I still have not printed the hotend one as I need my heatbed working to print it in abs I can upload this if you like as well.
That would be great if you could upload it as well.

Thanks!
Hi tootechy I have uploaded the Push fit ends sorry about the delay my mac would not up load the files to thingiverse for some reason so I have to use another computer.

You can find the files here: thingiverse.com/thing:116640
I finally got the got some time to replace my parts with the ones from lincolnep with the push fittings. Switched to a .5mm jhead and 4mm id, 6mm od ptfe for the push fittings. Reprinted a 25mm calibration cube and it worked perfectly! The 3mm id/5mm od ptfe had too much drag for the 3mm pla I was using. No jams, smooth print! Thanks for uploading those parts!
Great to hear Glad you are printing well.

Are you having any issues with retraction?

also what slicer are you using?
I'm getting a tiny glob that occurs (I believe) when a retraction and/or z-axis layer change occurs. I need to track it down. I'm using slic3r.

Are you having retraction issues? Anyone one have any ideas on the tiny globs (maybe 1mm in diameter).
I have been battling with blobbing/retraction myself I have just made a break through with the retraction.

My setting for retraction are:

retraction speed: 40mm/s
suck/retract: 4.5mm
prime: 4.6
min jump: 1mm
trigger threshold: 100mm
wipe: 0

I also added Z-lift 0.05 and that has seem to have helped.

So
far I only get blobbing at the seams/joins especially when I do a vase
print I can make it better by making it do random starts but then it
leaves very very small holes so I am thinking of speeding up the z speed
and adding more prime mm.

But at the moment I am enjoying some good prints

OO i am using Kisslicer
Perfect, Thanks!
I am also thinking about a standard extruder mount or an extruder integral in the x-carriage. This would be better as 1.75 with a direct drive extruder. I see Hoss has his printing really well so you should ask him what size filament etc he is using.
He switched to a .5 nozzle which would have less force/back pressure on the bowden tubes.
Yes another good idea. I have a couple of 0.5 j-heads on the way to me so I'll try that when they arrive. Might make higher printing speeds possible too.
cla - in reply to Wired1
After tons of PLA thown away last week I switched to 0.5 nozzle with 1.75 PLA and airtripper. Now is printing fine
tootechy - in reply to cla
Whats airtripper?
cla - in reply to tootechy
Yes, I placed it on top of the printer frame and I made a spool support with 4 608 bearings
Got it...I'm looking into switching to the .5 nozzle, less stress on the bowden tube ends.
Anymore assembly videos coming soon?
Yes hope to but I have a lot on at the moment sorry.
The OB 1.4 so far as run me ~$600:

I could have done it for ~$500 if I didn't use precision ACME rods, 83 oz-in steppers, and used a Printrboard instead of RAMBo electronics. Also I am budgeting $30 for the deck, and you can use a rectangle of wood or MDF to save money.

Prices are assuming you scavenge fans and power supply from an old PC.

And I had to buy nuts and bolts in 100 packs most of the time, even if I needed just a few.

imageshack.com/a/img827/3787/ynki.png
Can't find the 25 tooth pulley or 8mm ACME rod.
The acme rods are available on and off from Nate here: techpaladin.com/store/#ecwid:category=1941327&;mode=product&product=8445245 although you could use M8 threaded rod as the nuts are the same size. The pulleys are here: aliexpress.com/item/20-MXL-pulley-12pcs-set-DIY-Ultimaker-clone-and-MXL-belts/706226169.html
I ended up buying T2.0 20 teeth pulleys and belts. Hope that works. $12.65 would get me stainless non-ACME 8mm threaded rod from McMaster, but I got this: store.makerstoolworks.com/motion/z-axis-lead-screws-and-nuts-set-of-2/ - I hope I can make the nuts fit.
Where can I get the alloy deck? Laser cut from aluminum?
I got mine water jet cut at a local outfit. Look for a local machine shop and email them the DXF, most of them can do it from that nowadays.
Ah hah, so that's how the Y limit switch is supposed to go, I came up with a different solution using the same parts but it still seems to work fine :D
So far so good on our build - we should be done in a couple more days. Along the way, though, we found an odd issue with the X idler. The part appears to have overlapping shapes at the point where the bearing clamp attaches to the rest of the body, and where the nut holder attaches. This led Slic3r to infill those areas twice, which caused failed prints. I don't have HeeksCAD available so I can't see what's going on with the model itself, or try to fix it; luckily, Netfabb cleared up the problem and we were able to get a good print.

This might actually be a Slic3r bug, but the fact that Netfabb detected and fixed it makes me think that there could be something wrong with the STL.
I'll have a look at it but I'm pretty sure I sliced it straight from the STL. I use netfabb a lot so I might have cleaned it up later.
I Sliced it with Kisslicer and did not have any issues.

My printer is printing still need to do some calibrations but It is now pushing plastic ;)
Hi, awesome design!
I'd like to assemble one.

Can any body sell printed parts, please?
Depends on where you are. I have printed out three sets of parts for others but the shipping can be expensive outside NZ like anywhere I guess. I am working on a newer bigger printer at the moment so a bit preoccupied but message me if you get stuck.
Newer bigger printer? That sounds awesome. I'm on the fence with building a OB1.4. I guess I should wait it out for your new OB2.0?
Size isn't everything but I'm seriously thinking about a printer with a 300x300x300 build area, not that I want to print anything that large as it would take days, but to be able to print wider flat objects like y-carriages in one go, or to print tall skinny things in one go.
I am from Sydney, Australia,
Just wonder how much shipping will cost?
Just sent you a message, I have one set here (red) but no time to print any more right now sorry.
I have been asking the same thing, but it seems that folks are somewhat reluctant to print the parts in return for our $$$
I think the original philosophy was you built a repstrap out of MDF and threaded rod and used that to build your next "real" one. I built a mendel prusa first then used that to build the next one and so on and now have built a dozen or so printers. The use of laser cut parts has taken them to a new level but not one the average bloke can replicate in his shed.
Hi Wired,

No disrespect intended. I have been following Reprap and alot of other designs, and you are quite correct when you say the average blok can not build out of things laaying around the house.

I am building my own printer though out of things lying around the house from an instructable I found at Instructable.com I happen to have a lot of spare parts from old scanners, printers and what not, my frame will be built out of 3/4" plumbers piping and when completed I will post on here.

Our local radio shack now carries the Arduino boards for around $30 so that is where I will buy the board .. the rest of the electronics I will have to find on Ebay.

One of the 1st printers i will print is going to be your design OB1.4
Some more videos of a completed printer here courtesy of Allwood's great looking printer. youtu.be/UaXO9hN5drM
I have just replaced the original x-carriage today with a better one that has an integral fan for cooling the j-head extruder. I have also redesigned the pusher mount and relocated it from the angle brace on the side to the top of the printer to make room for the electronics on the right hand side of the printer. The new pusher bracket will work with any standard spacing extruder and will still need the bowden tube adaptor. I have also added the same AzteegX3 mount I used on the OB1 for convenience.
I like the designs, nice job. I couldn't find the stl for the pusher bracket, have you uploaded it?

Thanks!
Up now, called "PushClamp2" for want of a better name.
I thought I had but it seems to be missing, I'll upload it tonight when I get home from work :)
Thanks Mate for such a great printer design!

I am putting together electronics and I can't find out how the Y endstop is attached to the frame do you have a picture of it.

Thanks
Lincoln
Yes the last picture shows how it goes together. Nuts go in the body and the screws push back against the rail to give tension.
actually I am looking for where the endstop go's
Sorry my bad. I'll take some more photos and put them up.
Thanks Mate :)
OK just took some of the OB1 which uses the same end stops. They are the last two photos in red. The angle bracket goes on the inside of the front rail and holds a standard microswitch. The other end mounts on the edge of the alloy plate of the y-carriage with an adjustable screw to get a bit of fine tuning.
Thanks I will post a pic when I finished the build
is anyone selling printed parts yet?
I just finished printing the whole set for my self. Let me know your email and lets see what we can do for a full printed parts. It took me 4 days straight :)
Still confused. The 'original' printrbot appears in plastic via the link you supplied. However, if you go to the printrbot site all the kits they have (that I can find) are laser-cut wood versions. If you are building a printrbot, are you having someone 3D-print the plastic parts for you, or did you find a kit somehwere? Please share.
As soon as I have all the parts I will have someone print them for me. More than likely I will pay someone on this site to print it out for me. Since alot of these folks already have a working printer. I will keep you posted.
Which printrbot are you getting? The one I saw in the youtube video was dated Dec 17, 2011 done in plastic; the ones on the printrbot site look different -- are they made of wood? Are you getting a wooden one? Wouldn't plastic be better?

If you can, let me know where you are in getting your 1st 3D!!!
Hello Everyone Here. Just starting out with 3D printing. Can any of you in the US offer a kit of parts for the OB1.4? Wired1 suggests getting the parts from a source closer to me as I have no ability to 3D-print anything.
Can anyone guess as to the total cost for everything required to go from nothing to 3D printing with the OB1.4 design? Thanks.

Where do you guys get all the other metal parts? Motors, controllers, etc.?
Welcome to the world of 3d printing :) I am in the middle of the build and collecting parts. message me
kpsxtyone: Thanks for the offer! No, I'm not that much in a hurry. I also noted that Wired1 is seemingly not quite finished with OB14 yet himself.
What is "Open Beam"? Is that a website?
Please comment as to costs! How much do I need to budget for the complete printer?
Also: What are the strengths of the materials I can use this printer with? ABS? Other? Is there any 3D-printable plastic material out there that would compare to Delrin? Dare I say Aluminum?
Am I right in my cursory assessment that the OB14 is a whole lot better than the Mendel-Prusa-type 3D printers?
The OB1 seems to be printing. As with any project ...corrections are constantly being made and improvements are always the norm.

@Wired1... Still following this great project with very much interest
hit us with some pix / videos :)
If you are in the US it's openbeamusa.com/ they also have a presence here on Thingiverse thingiverse.com/OpenBeamUSA/designs.

The cost for the parts to build this machine in my part of the world is around US$1000 but should be cheaper in the northern hemisphere. This printer is more sturdy and stable than the excellent Mendel Prusa due to it's rigid aluminium frame so I believe it is a better printer but it is more expensive and is a more challenging build. I am still not 100% happy with the x-axis and extruder arrangement and would prefer to be able to use a standard wade-type extruder but as it is now it works well and prints good quality objects. I would expect the Prusa I3 to be a simpler build and just as good a printer but cost more as it relies on commercially cut parts.
cla - in reply to Wired1
In the USA you can buy extrusions from Misumi

their p/n KHFS3-1515 costs $7.4 for 2 meters
You can buy the Misumi extrusions in the lengths you need for the build (ie, not in 2 meter increments). I paid roughly $20 for the set.
Wow, that's a fifth of the price we pay for the extrusions down under.
Wired1 - in reply to cla
Thanks for that part number, it looks like it should fit the same as the open beam. Does that extrusion use T-nuts?
cla - in reply to Wired1
You can use standard M3 nuts or they sell square nuts
The Prusa I3 is only 100mm. Are you suggesting this to get to print parts for the OB14, or are you saying the OB14 needs more work (perhaps OB15?)?

OTOH the Cartesio appears to allow tool changes but goes for $1754.
No the I3 is a very good printer by itself. If you were building a printer to use to print parts of another one I would recommend the Mendel Prusa. It is the best developed printer and probably the cheapest and easiest to build. I am not familiar with the Cartesio but in general you are probably better off building a tried and tested printer first up rather than mine as it hasn't been around all that long.
Great design, I started printing the pieces but i cant find any 10mm smooth bar in Toronto. Any chance for a 8mm version for the Y axis?
Great design, I started printing the pieces but i cant find any 10mm smooth bar in Toronto. Any chance for a 8mm version for the Y axis?
Hi Ryan, you really need 10mm rod because of the span and the flex you will get with 8mm rod sorry. I am now thinking I should have gone 10mm on all axes but maybe next printer. There are plenty of on-line stores selling rod and failing that have a look on fleabay. Good luck with your build.
Wired1: Any idea when you might have the fully 10mm rod design
done with connecting parts CAD drawings? I'm seriously considering
building one of these, but not sure how far out that might be. If you
think you'll have a design for an "improved" printer in a few months,
then I'll wait to start getting components together or plastic parts
printed for me. If you think it might be only a few months out, then I
may ask for a list of the parts in the BOM that would change, and start
ordering those that will not change and start piecing this thing
together. I saw one of these printers in action and I was hooked right
away. Thanks for sharing your design with all of the component
drawings for parts that can be 3D printed! That's a huge help!
Hi Max, I'm off on another tangent now with no plans to develop this printer any more sorry. I am now working on a 300x300x300 machine and it is bigger extrusion, bigger rods, heavier frame etc. the whole 9 yards. To just make parts of the OB1.4 larger without scaling the whole thing overall would lead to lower print quality I feel so I'm starting all over with a larger machine.
Thanks Wired1! I just wanted to be sure before I had a colleague print out my plastic parts and start ordering any other parts. I saw above where you stated things like, "I have just replaced the original x-carriage today with a better one
that has an integral fan for cooling the j-head extruder. I have also
redesigned the pusher mount and relocated it from the angle brace on the
side to the top of the printer to make room for the electronics on the
right hand side of the printer. The new pusher bracket will work with
any standard spacing extruder and will still need the bowden tube
adaptor. I have also added the same AzteegX3 mount I used on the OB1 for
convenience." And I just wanted to be sure that any and all expected changes were reflected in the current parts files and the BOM. I'm not sure where the 8mm rods come into play or if I can change any plastic parts to use the 10mm rod everywhere in the printer (as you suggested you maybe should have done to avoid any flex in the 8mm rod.). I'll have my colleague download the newest set of part files from your collection with this web page and start printing them for me. I'm really looking forward to building this printer and hearing about all of the suggested mods to make improvements. I especially think I'll want to use the dual head design at some point to do suspended/overhang prints (such as in this video: youtube.com/watch?v=H1djLu2qJlc). Thanks again for sharing your design! I plan to use it for personal use and also for my classroom to encourage engineering, mechanical design and automation interests with some students! Please post any info relative to anyone doing a new build as I want to be sure I'm using the newest revs' info! Thanks again!
ok got to look harder to source out the bars locally :) thanks!
Have a look on aliexpress, they have plenty to pick from and sell it in 500mm lengths
Finally got all the parts ordered.. now its waiting time for them to get here :) I hope it doesnt take too long or i might print a 2nd set to have a different color :)
I was looking the YIdler assembly pictuers from the OB1 Prisim - Can you do a quck measure and check on the length screws are you using for the 3 screws (2 for springs, 1 for the 'hanger'? The hanger looks like about m4x25 should work correctly?
If you get a 'nails on chalk board' rattle in your Y at speeds of ~120mm/S the cause is the Idler screws where they contact the openbeam. The solution I have come up with is to stick rubber feet to the openbeam where the screws contact. This also prevents the scratching the screws would otherwise do.

Check out the long Y parts of this calibration angle. The X movements are nice 'whip whip whip whip " sounds at about 8 seconds. The noise in question is at about 12 seconds.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqRifVq486c&feature=youtu.be
You will still get the stepper noise, but the metallic rattling (it carries extremely far) is negated with the rubber feet.
Can you post pictures of the rubber feet by the idler screws? We're about 2/3 done w/ the mechanical part of the build. Also which carriage are you using?

Thanks!
I was interested in a picture of your y-idler assembly with the rubber feet attached (for the screw vibration).

I am also putting rubber feet on the bottom which will give additional height allowing me to run wires on the bottom side of the beams (using hossmachine's clips).

Thanks
OK sorry, misunderstood your question. I have just added a photo of the y-idler (on my red printer). The pivot bolt and the two tensioner screws are all M4x25mm machine screws. The springs are just what I could find to fit inside the tensioner body and you could run without these or if they were stiff enough, without the tensioner screws. The tnesioner screws have M4 nuts recessed into the tensioner body followed by the springs if you have them. On this printer I have just tightened the tensioner screws straight onto the aluminium extrusion without pads inder their tips but that sounds like a good alternative to the springs (and not me who thought of it - you must have read that somewhere else :) )
The rubber feet I have used are just flat squares of rubber 2-3mm thick (1/8") glued directly to the bottom of the legs. I am still using the bowden tube carriage but there is also this carriage-extruder thingiverse.com/thing:49663 I have been working on and some have already had working on theirs.
Thanks for the video that carriage works very well. The rubber feet is a good idea too, I use them to stop the machine wandering around the room too but for noise reduction it has to help.
I don't see threaded rod in your BOM. I am guessing its just 8mm but what confuses me also is the coupling from 5mm to 6.25mm.
Wired1 - in reply to Exil
Yes you need a couple of lead-screws. It will work with 8mm threaded rod but I prefer to use the Acme leadscrews from Techpaladin.com. They are the same nut size but a lot more accurate. These come with a 6.25mm end on them which is why I needed the 5mm to 6.25mm couplings. If you are using 8mm rod you would need 5mm to 8mm couplings.
i have a ton of 80/20 1" extrusion, any idea how much work it would be to update this for that stock instead of openBeam? This looks way easier then even mendelmax!
Pity you are so far away, 80/20 would be really strong, might be better for a larger printer.
i've kind of been thinking the same.. i got 8 pieces of 1" x 1" x 30".. i could probably minimize cutting if i made it LARGE! it measures about 25.3mm muuuch bigger then openbeam
and while i do sort of want to "mendelmax", after having done a project with 80/20, i REALLY don't wanna buy all those damn connector and angle bits
though, scaling the appropriate parts x 2.5 is appealing ;)
I'm almost done printing the parts and am about to order the electronics and hardware. I had a couple of questions on the BOM:

What size PTFE for the filament from the extruder to the hot end? 3mm id, od?
You list a 5mm x 6.25mm coupling, is that supposed to be 6.25 or 6.35?

For the curious, did you machine the deck or get it done externally?

Thanks!
Yes I need to make another video detailling the extruder and bowden tube setup. It is designed for 5mm OD PTFE tube with ID of 3mm for 3mm filament. It takes 5mm nuts threaded directly onto the PTFE tube as is commonly done.
Yes my bad converting from metric to imperial sorry, the coupling goes from the 5mm motor shaft to the acme lead screws (or any 8mm lead screw) which is normally 1/4" or 6.35mm. I'll correct the BOM asap.
My original aim here was to make a printer that was printable and not require laser/water jet cut parts but I confess I had those water jet cut for me. You could cut one out from a 230mm square sheet of 5mm alloy but they do look awesome off the water jet :)
I'm about to start the extruder/bowden tube assembly, any chance of adding a couple of more pictures from the gear side? Also any additional info on the size of the screws you used there would be helpful. My first printer, so thanks for all the help!
Just added some photos all around the pusher. You can use any standard mounting extruder and attach it to the bar clamp with the j-daptor. I used 5mm PTFE tube with M5 nuts screw onto each end, the J-daptor and the hot end both have places to settle the M5 nuts. This is still experimental of course.
Your bed looks great. Looked into getting it cut here in the states, setup is a bit cost prohibitive from what I've found. If anyone finds a decent source (or wants to order a few a split the setup cost) let me know. For now, I'm probably going with MDF until I find a reasonable supplier for the aluminum plate.
I bought a Lulzbot plate and just redesigned the bearing mounts under the Y carriage...

lulzbot.com/?q=products/y-axis-plate

lulzbot.com/?q=products/bed-plate-r11

this is nice because the holes are already drilled for the bed heater PCB.

lulzbot.com/?q=products/pcb-heatbed-mk1
Thanks for the reply, no apologies necessary, just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything. Your parts look great - can't wait to start putting it together!
have you thought about using 10mm in the x and y. would you mind throwing up a derivative of the two
I think the next printer I design will have 10mm rods all around for simplicity's sake. It isn't all that necessary although there is a little bit of spring in the y-carriage with the 8mm rods.
I started printing some of the parts at 10% fill, they seem pretty strong. What do you recommend for fill?
There are a lot of thin sides so I would up it a bit. I print mine at 40% fill.
Anyone have plates of multiple parts for printing? Also, Wired1 - any chance of including the stl file names in the excel BOM? I wasn't quite getting them to match up for printing purposes.
Build trays here: thingiverse.com/thing:51593 I've been mass-producing them this week, probably could get it down to 5 trays but 6 works well.
Added the pusher and microswitch files and updated the BOM :)
Thanks for the fast turnaround!
I had been meaning to do it anyway and you just spurred me on thanks.
Yes fair comment, I'll adjust the BOM to match the part names. I am printing a set out at the moment and got home from work yesterday to find a birds nest of black filament on the printer where the x-axis ends should be :)
Thanks in advance for updating the BOM, definitely will save a bit of time for printing.
Good luck w/ the birds nest...not a nice thing to come home to at all when you're expecting finished parts!
I have added a better Y-carriage to replace my one-piece one used previously. The new one includes the relocated belt clamps and is setup for t2.5 belts.
I don't understand how the Y idler is assembled.
Could you post an image?
Thank you.
Wired1 - in reply to cla
Yes I will, in the mean time have a look at the same part in the photos of the OB1 printer here: thingiverse.com/thing:33946
I have to cut the upper extrusion to 420 mm to be able to have 300 mm alignment up and down.
What is wrong?
Wired1 - in reply to cla
That is probably correct, I think I cut my top one down too. I will check the measurement and change the instruction accordingly. The main thing is the vertical beams are vertical and parallel so as long as you achieve that it will all work.
Very nice design!
How do you tighten the x-axis belt? Belt holders in OBXcarry5S.stl seems to be very fragile.
I haven't broken one yet. I get them as tight as I can by hand then take them off the pulley and take them one tooth more and cable tie them. Then roll them back onto the pulley.
That's a tricky question as it largely depends on where you live. If you live in China the cost is very low but here in New Zealand the cost would be about the same as any printer at between US$500 - $700 all up in parts I would guess. Down here the Musumi extrusions are very expensive so it is a lot cheaper than building a Mendel Max but would have the same amount of plastics, electronics, motors, heater bed, hot end, rails and hardware as a Mendel Max so would cost about the same if that helps.

On top of that there is a heap of labour so built up it would be around US$1800 at a guess. I haven't sat down and worked it out.

Apart from wanting to design something using the very affordable Open Beam I wanted to make an open-front printer with a big build envelope that can be printed on any other printer.
how much would you say the final cost of building this is?
It looks like Y-axis motor could be mounted inside the frame instead like in Prusa i3 (not sure as I do not know the distance between bearings in the carriage).
Wired1 - in reply to misan
There probably is a spot you could fit it - not at the front middle as that would collide with the y-carriage but maybe off to one side. I like the y-carriage to be as wide and deep as possible to make it more stable but you could also modify the y-carriage design to fit the motor in front.
misan - in reply to Wired1
Yeah, doing that would force the belt out of the center of the carriage, which will work but it is not as nice as the current design, I do agree.
Wired1 - in reply to misan
I've also thought it would be tidy to include the power supply in the base which would require it being a bit higher so it might be worth a tinker to see how both these could be achieved. Less bits hanging off the sides would be cleaner.
Im working on something similar, an open beam box that hides the ratsnest and psu's under the printer. The ob should set right on top and sit nice, but this is going to cost a bit so further down the line.
Another builder (Hossmachine) here is building a giant version 12" x 12" or bigger, video here: youtube.com/watch?v=FBPLCTO7B58
yes I am, it will be 14x14x14. thanks so much for sharing this, it's a fantastic design and scales up beautifully.
Thanks, I'm following your videos with interest - you seem to have a few things on the go :)
You have very shallow nut traps for the threaded rods on the X ends. Looks like no more than 1.5 cm. Can you fit a spring in there, or do you just let gravity do the trick?
Gravity only - I don't use springs on my other printers so it is wasted space. I suppose I should have reduced the top to less but it just happened that way.
I am starting to build the printer with Misumi extrusions HFS3-1515 instead of open beam.

Do you think there are problems?
Wired1 - in reply to cla
I started down this track because the Misumi extrusions are not readily available in my part of the world (or not affordable anyway) hence the move to Open Beam. I am not sure how the nuts work with your extrusion but in theory if it is 15 x 15 it should fit with all the parts OK. Does the Misumi extrusion use T-nuts or just standard M3 nuts?
cla - in reply to Wired1
You can use standard M3 nuts and also are very cheap. About 5 euros per meters including shipment.
Freever - in reply to cla
So, did it work with the Misumi extrusions? Or were there any problems?
cla - in reply to Freever
I almost assembled everithing and the Misumi extrusions are fine.
I suggest to buy their square M3 nuts
I just noticed the bowden setup. I'm thinking of going that way. How is it working for you? Are you using 3mm or 1.75mm filament? I use, and prefer to use, 3mm, but I'm led to believe that bowden setups work better with 1.75. I'm especially interested in how your extruder works in this arangement. I thought that with bowden tubes, retraction speed was extremely important which would seem to rule out extruders with a reduction gear. I thought direct drive was supposedly the way to go. I like the airtripper extruder, but it's for 1.75mm and I can't get an answer as to whether it could be adapted for 3mm.
The Ultimaker community has nearly perfected retraction on their setups over the last few months. They use 3mm filaments, bowden tubes and gear reduction on the extruders just fine. With 3mm filament, you don't have to move the extruder stepper very fast to get significant extrusion rates.
It is pretty experimental and if it doesn't work I may still make an x-carriage for a standard wade type extruder as a fall back. I prefer 3mm filament and could not find a direct drive 3mm extruder so using a standard extruder as the pusher was the next best thing. Still learning I guess.
Added two sketches showing the X-carriage assembly.
I don't see the Y axis motor mount.
Well spotted - it is the same as the OB1 one and I have just added it now. Thanks for the tip :)
Added the X-carriage, j-head mount block, extruder pusher mounting plate and extruder adaptor today. Should work with most extruders but use my small footprint one to be sure thingiverse.com/thing:30951
Really nice looking machine.

Any particular reason for 10mm on the Z linear rods?
Just to make the x-carriage a little more stable. Next printer I design will be 10mm all round, no flex and better prints.
Yes it is difficult to get the top completely solid even with aluminium extrusions but the 10mm rod add to the total rigidity and saves me adding lateral triangulation which would do the same thing. The other two axes aren't subject to the same problems and 8mm rods are plenty big enough for them.
Also added x-ends today, x-carriage and pusher still need a few tweaks but almost there...
Added BOM in excel as well as tab-delimited today.
I don't see how your x-axis is going to be able to get past the cross brace.
What does your x-axis look like?
I have just added three photos showing the X-ends which should clarify this. I will release all this when I complete the bowden extruder but it clears everything and gives a print height in excess of 200mm.
Great! The additional photos cleared it up. Thanks.
Why do the Z rods extend so far above the top of the machine?
Well spotted :) I ordered 500mm linear rods all round so they could be shortened - although on my earlier printer I used one of these to take a feed roller for the filament - you can justsee it on the red printer behind.
Very nice - do you know yet if you are going with a horizontal or vertical x-carriage?
Vertical carriage. I have the ends finished and working on a bowden tube carriage at the mo.
awesome design!
Top