OB1.4 open beam 3D printer

by Wired1, published

OB1.4 open beam 3D printer by Wired1 Jan 13, 2013


This is my second printer design and is based on my first printer the OB1 with a reengineered top end. The 1.4 features greatly increased build height and now has a massive build volume of 200mm x 200mm x 200mm (8" x 8" x 8") with an open front design yet is still 100% printable on an existing reprap printer.

The aim here was to make a larger volume printer that did not need specialist parts, laser cutting or CNC machinery to make. The 1.4 designation comes from the new side frames resembling the number '4'.

If you have already built the earlier OB1 printer you can reuse a lot of the original plastic parts as well as all of the extrusions although this new printer uses less extrusion and some will require shortening.

The x-axis ends and carriage are now included but have not yet been tested hence the "work in progress" label.

I may yet design a standard x-carriage to take a Wades type extruder but if anyone else wants to have a go the X-axis rails are 55mm spacing 8mm diameter linear rods.

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Could you send me the steps of this printer ? i want to make 1 but i want some small ajustments

I'm really interested in building one of these - I've been looking at other designs and kits and nothing has the build volume I need. Is there a source anywhere for the 3D printed parts for an OB1.4? Unfortunately, there's no 3D printers near me - in fact if I built this, it'd be the only 3D printer within 60 miles.

Check with those in your trade schools or colleges. Chances are, some department has a laser or water jet cutting capability and the need to run a student through their paces. That's what I intend to do.

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Build trays here: thingiverse.com/thing:51593

Full assemble instructions are available on YouTube here:
Part 1: youtu.be/WR5EMgwua-Q
Part 2: youtu.be/PiuRKRwRDCY
Part 3: youtu.be/vGVZhLTLnB4
part 4: youtu.be/4_iULqEEOrE

(Full BOM is included in the file list in excel and tab-delimited formats)

Open beam extrusions required:
1 x top rail 420 mm long
8 x front/rear/side and upright rails 330mm each
2 x diagonal rails 297mm each

These can be cut from 4 x 1m lengths of Open Beam extrusion.
Mitre-box here: thingiverse.com/thing:32668

Linear rods:
X-axis 8mm x 450-500mm long
Y-axis 8mm x 390mm long
Z-axis 10mm x 450-500mm long

4 x 10mm LM10UU bearings
8 x 8mm LM8UU bearings
2 x 608 bearings
80 x M3 x 8mm hex socket machine screws
10 x M3 x 10mm hex socket machine screws
80 x 3mm washers
80 x M3 nuts

I have also included the drawing of the 5mm aluminium plate I recommend you use for the y-carriage along with the y-carriage design OB14Y1 included here plus these bed adjusters: thingiverse.com/thing:29782

You will also need an extruder, I am using my small footprint extruder from here: thingiverse.com/thing:30951 as a pusher.

If you use the build trays from here: thingiverse.com/thing:51593 they include the pusher and extruder parts in the trays as well as the y-carriage.

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Flugal on Apr 16, 2014 said:

Could you send me the steps of this printer ? i want to make 1 but i want some small ajustments

depruett on Apr 8, 2014 said:

I'm really interested in building one of these - I've been looking at other designs and kits and nothing has the build volume I need. Is there a source anywhere for the 3D printed parts for an OB1.4? Unfortunately, there's no 3D printers near me - in fact if I built this, it'd be the only 3D printer within 60 miles.

Dexerit on Mar 12, 2014 said:

Hey very nice printer!
I Wonder if you have 20 x 20 extrusions files, because here in France it's very difficult to find 1515I aluminium extrusions...
Thanks in any case! ;)

Dantheman973 on Mar 4, 2014 said:

Hey. I was wondering if you could answer some questions i have.
1. What firmware are you using for the Arduino?
2.My stepper motors wire are Blue,Green,Yellow,Red. Where do i connect the too? Like 2B 2A 1A 1B

Dantheman973 on Feb 14, 2014 said:

Where did you guys get your stepper motors from?

Wired1 on Feb 15, 2014 said:

Aliexpress like these: http://www.aliexpress.com/item...

marlauckas on Jan 19, 2014 said:

I'm looking at this design for my first 3D Printer. I don't have a printer, so I need to find someone to print out the parts. How much filament should I budget for for the complete set, and what's a reasonable price to pay (in USD) for a complete set? Thanks!

MrPCFixIT on Jan 20, 2014 said:

checkout the site Http://www.makexyz.com its local people with 3dprinters offering thier printers to print whatever you want.

Furmie35 on Jan 16, 2014 said:

I wish to build an open beam with 400 x 200 bed. I believe i will require 10 mm rods. Could you please tell me the centre line distances for x axis motor mount. These are the vertical mounts for OB1.4 I will be using your open beam components which I have printed. Thank you for your fantastic designs.

bilsch on Jan 2, 2014 said:

I am working through the BOM doc, seems OBXblock3cS.STL is missing. Guessing this part is needed still yes?

Wired1 on Jan 2, 2014 said:

Use the part OBXblock1, it is the same part :)

cjdj3 on Dec 19, 2013 said:

Does anyone know how I can use my 6x6 heated bed on this? Also, where can I get the aluminum piece?

Wired1 on Dec 20, 2013 said:

Better to buy an 8x8 heater but no reason why you couldn't use your smaller one. The alloy bed is just a piece of 6mm or 1/4" thick aluminium (aluminum) cut to size. I had several water jet cut and the the DXF file is included in the parts files above but I have made them by hand with a hack saw before. Find a local aluminium wholesaler and see what they have in their scrap off-cuts bin.

tootechy on Dec 16, 2013 said:

Mine is printing very well, but I'm getting some minor strings between parts and blobbing. I'm using slic3r/marlin. I'm curious as to what other's are using for retraction distance/speeds for their bowden setups, or if you've had similar issues, what was your solution?

kiteoregon on Dec 15, 2013 said:

I am thinking I am going to build this design next, however i want to shoot for a print bed of 12x12". What parts would need to change? I would guess only the angle bracket on the top as the geometry would be a bit different.

Wired1 on Dec 15, 2013 said:

See Hossmachines variation here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... it has a 14"x14" build area and he seems to have it working well. I never intended it for that large but if you make all the extrusions longer it should work with the standard parts as they are.

MiguelBi on Dec 1, 2013 said:

Someone has the possibility to stamp for me the pieces of the OB1.4??

Obviously paying the necessary one.
I don't know whether to retrieve the presses...


produino on Dec 2, 2013 said:

Where are you located? Perhaps i can print it all, i'm from the Netherlands.

SirMaxwell on Nov 26, 2013 said:

Wired1: Any idea when you might have the fully 10mm extruded design done with connecting parts CAD drawings? I'm seriously considering building one of these, but not sure how far out that might be. If you think you'll have a design for an "improved" printer in a few months, then I'll wait to start getting components together or plastic parts printed for me. If you think it might be only a few months out, then I may ask for a list of the parts in the BOM that would change, and start ordering those that will not change and start piecing this thing together. I saw one of these printers in action and I was hooked right away. Thanks for sharing your design with all of the component drawings for parts that can be 3D printed! That's a huge help!

jcaywood on Nov 18, 2013 said:

I've really been enjoying this printer, I probably have 3500 to 4000 meters worth of filament with a Budaschnozzle hot end with no issues. I've used it to print a copy of itself which a friend is using. I used the Wade style direct extruder carriage which has worked out pretty well, but is a bit heavy. I'm printing out parts for converting this one to use dual Bowden pushers (wired1's, I just mirrored the .STLs for the second pusher) and downeym's dual E3D carriage which I finally got printed right after flipping the STL on it's end. Thanks again for sharing this design, here's a video of the setup at the moment after 100's of hours of use. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...

Dantheman973 on Nov 2, 2013 said:

Does anyone have any extra M3 x 50mm screws, M3 x 12mm screws, M3 x 20mm screws, M4 x 20mm screws, M8 x 50mm bolt, M8 standard washers or M8 fender washers i can have?

amramsey on Nov 6, 2013 said:

If you can't find any locally, try McMaster Carr. If you don't like their prices, try Ebay.

Dantheman973 on Oct 15, 2013 said:

Do i need smooth linear rods? If so which part do i get it for?

Dantheman973 on Oct 15, 2013 said:

Also, on the instructions it says i need M3 x 10mm hex socket machine screws but on the BOM it doesnt say M3 x 10mm anywhere?

yoho on Oct 15, 2013 said:

It's difficutl for those who doesn't have money and cutting tools to make x-shape aluminum plate.

Can I use square plate istead of it?

SirMaxwell on Mar 22, 2014 said:

Check with those in your trade schools or colleges. Chances are, some department has a laser or water jet cutting capability and the need to run a student through their paces. That's what I intend to do.

tootechy on Oct 15, 2013 said:

I used a rectangular piece of MDF, which works fine as well.

ne7rag3 on Oct 15, 2013 said:

Yes, the reason some people use x-shaped plates is to reduce weight. But using a piece square piece of aluminum, steel, wood, etc. will work just fine. It's more important for it to be flat. Having a flat plate will save you a lot of trouble.

Dantheman973 on Oct 14, 2013 said:

I can't see to find the Bill Of Materials. Can Anyone help me out?

Wired1 on Oct 15, 2013 said:

Yes it's called OB14_BOM.XLS under the "Thing Files" tab above. It is Excel format but you can read it with Open Office

kerstens on Sep 27, 2013 said:

Thank you for your great design. What kind of stepper motor do you use?

downeym on Jul 20, 2013 said:

does anyone have a source for the leadscrew and nuts that fit this carriage design?

Vincevl on Jul 30, 2013 said:

From what I can see Techpaladin is selling 6.35mm acme lead screws which is equivalent to North American 1/4" acme rod. However, his website says it has a "thread pitch" of 1.5875mm, but I think he means a "lead" of 1.5875. This means the load travels 1.5875 mm/rev. Perhaps Wired1 could confirm with Techpaladin if he means lead or pitch. If the travel is indeed 1.5875 mm/rev than it converts to 1/4"-16 acme rod.

Wired1 on Jul 20, 2013 said:

Yes Nate at Techpaladin.com has the 6.25mm Acme lead screws or you can use M8 threaded rod as well, the nuts are the same size.

jiggles_xD on Jul 16, 2013 said:

Hmm, Just found that OB14Y1.stl won't fit on the only 3D printer that I have to had. a makerbot Cupcake. Its only got a build area of 100 mm^2 Is there any way around this? Scaling it won't work (for obvious reasons).

tootechy on Jul 17, 2013 said:

I have mine screwed into MDF.

So starting with a piece of MDF,
you could build something like this:

using 4 of these: http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

just watch your height of the bed so it clears the front/back frame.

owens on Jul 8, 2013 said:

We're loving our OB1.4, it's been printing for a couple of days now and turning out great parts. Thanks for doing the design! There are just a couple of things we want to tweak, along with one big upgrade - we want dual extruders. We have two J-Heads ready to go, and I am working at adapting an i3 carriage for them, but I'm trying to work out exactly how far apart the X-axis smooth rods are. My best measurements say 54 mm center to center, is that correct?

cla on Jul 8, 2013 said:

No, center to center is 58 mm

tootechy on Jun 29, 2013 said:

What size filament are you using with your printer?

Wired1 on Jun 29, 2013 said:

3mm although I'm seriously thinking about changing to 1.75 for the increased speed and reduced strain on the gear.

jiggles_xD on Jun 23, 2013 said:

Anymore assembly videos coming soon?

Wired1 on Jun 29, 2013 said:

Yes hope to but I have a lot on at the moment sorry.

rsilvers on Jun 22, 2013 said:

The OB 1.4 so far as run me ~$600:

I could have done it for ~$500 if I didn't use precision ACME rods, 83 oz-in steppers, and used a Printrboard instead of RAMBo electronics. Also I am budgeting $30 for the deck, and you can use a rectangle of wood or MDF to save money.

Prices are assuming you scavenge fans and power supply from an old PC.

And I had to buy nuts and bolts in 100 packs most of the time, even if I needed just a few.


rsilvers on Jun 22, 2013 said:

Can't find the 25 tooth pulley or 8mm ACME rod.

Wired1 on Jun 22, 2013 said:

The acme rods are available on and off from Nate here: http://techpaladin.com/store/#... although you could use M8 threaded rod as the nuts are the same size. The pulleys are here: http://www.aliexpress.com/item...

rsilvers on Jun 22, 2013 said:

Where can I get the alloy deck? Laser cut from aluminum?

Wired1 on Jun 22, 2013 said:

I got mine water jet cut at a local outfit. Look for a local machine shop and email them the DXF, most of them can do it from that nowadays.

jcaywood on Jun 21, 2013 said:

Ah hah, so that's how the Y limit switch is supposed to go, I came up with a different solution using the same parts but it still seems to work fine :D

owens on Jun 19, 2013 said:

So far so good on our build - we should be done in a couple more days. Along the way, though, we found an odd issue with the X idler. The part appears to have overlapping shapes at the point where the bearing clamp attaches to the rest of the body, and where the nut holder attaches. This led Slic3r to infill those areas twice, which caused failed prints. I don't have HeeksCAD available so I can't see what's going on with the model itself, or try to fix it; luckily, Netfabb cleared up the problem and we were able to get a good print.

This might actually be a Slic3r bug, but the fact that Netfabb detected and fixed it makes me think that there could be something wrong with the STL.

Wired1 on Jun 19, 2013 said:

I'll have a look at it but I'm pretty sure I sliced it straight from the STL. I use netfabb a lot so I might have cleaned it up later.

abbyssoul on Jun 7, 2013 said:

Hi, awesome design!
I'd like to assemble one.

Can any body sell printed parts, please?

Wired1 on Jun 7, 2013 said:

Depends on where you are. I have printed out three sets of parts for others but the shipping can be expensive outside NZ like anywhere I guess. I am working on a newer bigger printer at the moment so a bit preoccupied but message me if you get stuck.

Techno35 on Jun 7, 2013 said:

I have been asking the same thing, but it seems that folks are somewhat reluctant to print the parts in return for our $$$

Wired1 on May 30, 2013 said:

Some more videos of a completed printer here courtesy of Allwood's great looking printer. http://youtu.be/UaXO9hN5drM

Wired1 on May 13, 2013 said:

I have just replaced the original x-carriage today with a better one that has an integral fan for cooling the j-head extruder. I have also redesigned the pusher mount and relocated it from the angle brace on the side to the top of the printer to make room for the electronics on the right hand side of the printer. The new pusher bracket will work with any standard spacing extruder and will still need the bowden tube adaptor. I have also added the same AzteegX3 mount I used on the OB1 for convenience.

tootechy on May 14, 2013 said:

I like the designs, nice job. I couldn't find the stl for the pusher bracket, have you uploaded it?


Lincolnep on May 13, 2013 said:

Thanks Mate for such a great printer design!

I am putting together electronics and I can't find out how the Y endstop is attached to the frame do you have a picture of it.


Wired1 on May 13, 2013 said:

Yes the last picture shows how it goes together. Nuts go in the body and the screws push back against the rail to give tension.

gorf on May 5, 2013 said:

is anyone selling printed parts yet?

kpsxtyone on May 6, 2013 said:

I just finished printing the whole set for my self. Let me know your email and lets see what we can do for a full printed parts. It took me 4 days straight :)

tkarlmann on May 4, 2013 said:

Still confused. The 'original' printrbot appears in plastic via the link you supplied. However, if you go to the printrbot site all the kits they have (that I can find) are laser-cut wood versions. If you are building a printrbot, are you having someone 3D-print the plastic parts for you, or did you find a kit somehwere? Please share.

Techno35 on May 4, 2013 said:

As soon as I have all the parts I will have someone print them for me. More than likely I will pay someone on this site to print it out for me. Since alot of these folks already have a working printer. I will keep you posted.

tkarlmann on May 3, 2013 said:

Which printrbot are you getting? The one I saw in the youtube video was dated Dec 17, 2011 done in plastic; the ones on the printrbot site look different -- are they made of wood? Are you getting a wooden one? Wouldn't plastic be better?

If you can, let me know where you are in getting your 1st 3D!!!

tkarlmann on May 1, 2013 said:

Hello Everyone Here. Just starting out with 3D printing. Can any of you in the US offer a kit of parts for the OB1.4? Wired1 suggests getting the parts from a source closer to me as I have no ability to 3D-print anything.
Can anyone guess as to the total cost for everything required to go from nothing to 3D printing with the OB1.4 design? Thanks.

Where do you guys get all the other metal parts? Motors, controllers, etc.?

kpsxtyone on May 2, 2013 said:

Welcome to the world of 3d printing :) I am in the middle of the build and collecting parts. message me

kpsxtyone on Apr 27, 2013 said:

Great design, I started printing the pieces but i cant find any 10mm smooth bar in Toronto. Any chance for a 8mm version for the Y axis?

Wired1 on Apr 27, 2013 said:

Hi Ryan, you really need 10mm rod because of the span and the flex you will get with 8mm rod sorry. I am now thinking I should have gone 10mm on all axes but maybe next printer. There are plenty of on-line stores selling rod and failing that have a look on fleabay. Good luck with your build.

kpsxtyone on Apr 27, 2013 said:

Great design, I started printing the pieces but i cant find any 10mm smooth bar in Toronto. Any chance for a 8mm version for the Y axis?

Wired1 on Apr 27, 2013 said:

Hi Ryan, you really need 10mm rod because of the span and the flex you will get with 8mm rod sorry. I am now thinking I should have gone 10mm on all axes but maybe next printer. There are plenty of on-line stores selling rod and failing that have a look on fleabay. Good luck with your build.

tootechy on Apr 22, 2013 said:

I was looking the YIdler assembly pictuers from the OB1 Prisim - Can you do a quck measure and check on the length screws are you using for the 3 screws (2 for springs, 1 for the 'hanger'? The hanger looks like about m4x25 should work correctly?

Addidis on Apr 19, 2013 said:

If you get a 'nails on chalk board' rattle in your Y at speeds of ~120mm/S the cause is the Idler screws where they contact the openbeam. The solution I have come up with is to stick rubber feet to the openbeam where the screws contact. This also prevents the scratching the screws would otherwise do.

Check out the long Y parts of this calibration angle. The X movements are nice 'whip whip whip whip " sounds at about 8 seconds. The noise in question is at about 12 seconds.
You will still get the stepper noise, but the metallic rattling (it carries extremely far) is negated with the rubber feet.

tootechy on Apr 22, 2013 said:

Can you post pictures of the rubber feet by the idler screws? We're about 2/3 done w/ the mechanical part of the build. Also which carriage are you using?


Wired1 on Apr 19, 2013 said:

Thanks for the video that carriage works very well. The rubber feet is a good idea too, I use them to stop the machine wandering around the room too but for noise reduction it has to help.

Exil on Apr 2, 2013 said:

I don't see threaded rod in your BOM. I am guessing its just 8mm but what confuses me also is the coupling from 5mm to 6.25mm.

Wired1 on Apr 3, 2013 said:

Yes you need a couple of lead-screws. It will work with 8mm threaded rod but I prefer to use the Acme leadscrews from Techpaladin.com. They are the same nut size but a lot more accurate. These come with a 6.25mm end on them which is why I needed the 5mm to 6.25mm couplings. If you are using 8mm rod you would need 5mm to 8mm couplings.

billieblaze on Mar 11, 2013 said:

i have a ton of 80/20 1" extrusion, any idea how much work it would be to update this for that stock instead of openBeam? This looks way easier then even mendelmax!

Wired1 on Mar 11, 2013 said:

Pity you are so far away, 80/20 would be really strong, might be better for a larger printer.

tootechy on Mar 7, 2013 said:

I'm almost done printing the parts and am about to order the electronics and hardware. I had a couple of questions on the BOM:

What size PTFE for the filament from the extruder to the hot end? 3mm id, od?
You list a 5mm x 6.25mm coupling, is that supposed to be 6.25 or 6.35?

For the curious, did you machine the deck or get it done externally?


Wired1 on Mar 8, 2013 said:

Yes I need to make another video detailling the extruder and bowden tube setup. It is designed for 5mm OD PTFE tube with ID of 3mm for 3mm filament. It takes 5mm nuts threaded directly onto the PTFE tube as is commonly done.
Yes my bad converting from metric to imperial sorry, the coupling goes from the 5mm motor shaft to the acme lead screws (or any 8mm lead screw) which is normally 1/4" or 6.35mm. I'll correct the BOM asap.
My original aim here was to make a printer that was printable and not require laser/water jet cut parts but I confess I had those water jet cut for me. You could cut one out from a 230mm square sheet of 5mm alloy but they do look awesome off the water jet :)

Whizbang on Feb 23, 2013 said:

have you thought about using 10mm in the x and y. would you mind throwing up a derivative of the two

Wired1 on Feb 23, 2013 said:

I think the next printer I design will have 10mm rods all around for simplicity's sake. It isn't all that necessary although there is a little bit of spring in the y-carriage with the 8mm rods.

tootechy on Feb 15, 2013 said:

I started printing some of the parts at 10% fill, they seem pretty strong. What do you recommend for fill?

Wired1 on Feb 15, 2013 said:

There are a lot of thin sides so I would up it a bit. I print mine at 40% fill.

tootechy on Feb 13, 2013 said:

Anyone have plates of multiple parts for printing? Also, Wired1 - any chance of including the stl file names in the excel BOM? I wasn't quite getting them to match up for printing purposes.

Wired1 on Feb 18, 2013 said:

Build trays here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... I've been mass-producing them this week, probably could get it down to 5 trays but 6 works well.

Wired1 on Feb 14, 2013 said:

Added the pusher and microswitch files and updated the BOM :)

Wired1 on Feb 13, 2013 said:

Yes fair comment, I'll adjust the BOM to match the part names. I am printing a set out at the moment and got home from work yesterday to find a birds nest of black filament on the printer where the x-axis ends should be :)

Wired1 on Feb 12, 2013 said:

I have added a better Y-carriage to replace my one-piece one used previously. The new one includes the relocated belt clamps and is setup for t2.5 belts.

cla on Feb 11, 2013 said:

I don't understand how the Y idler is assembled.
Could you post an image?
Thank you.

Wired1 on Feb 12, 2013 said:

Yes I will, in the mean time have a look at the same part in the photos of the OB1 printer here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

cla on Feb 10, 2013 said:

I have to cut the upper extrusion to 420 mm to be able to have 300 mm alignment up and down.
What is wrong?

Wired1 on Feb 11, 2013 said:

That is probably correct, I think I cut my top one down too. I will check the measurement and change the instruction accordingly. The main thing is the vertical beams are vertical and parallel so as long as you achieve that it will all work.

Bevaz on Feb 10, 2013 said:

Very nice design!
How do you tighten the x-axis belt? Belt holders in OBXcarry5S.stl seems to be very fragile.

Wired1 on Feb 10, 2013 said:

I haven't broken one yet. I get them as tight as I can by hand then take them off the pulley and take them one tooth more and cable tie them. Then roll them back onto the pulley.

Wired1 on Feb 8, 2013 said:

That's a tricky question as it largely depends on where you live. If you live in China the cost is very low but here in New Zealand the cost would be about the same as any printer at between US$500 - $700 all up in parts I would guess. Down here the Musumi extrusions are very expensive so it is a lot cheaper than building a Mendel Max but would have the same amount of plastics, electronics, motors, heater bed, hot end, rails and hardware as a Mendel Max so would cost about the same if that helps.

On top of that there is a heap of labour so built up it would be around US$1800 at a guess. I haven't sat down and worked it out.

Apart from wanting to design something using the very affordable Open Beam I wanted to make an open-front printer with a big build envelope that can be printed on any other printer.

TaylorBruchet on Feb 8, 2013 said:

how much would you say the final cost of building this is?

misan on Feb 7, 2013 said:

It looks like Y-axis motor could be mounted inside the frame instead like in Prusa i3 (not sure as I do not know the distance between bearings in the carriage).

Wired1 on Feb 7, 2013 said:

There probably is a spot you could fit it - not at the front middle as that would collide with the y-carriage but maybe off to one side. I like the y-carriage to be as wide and deep as possible to make it more stable but you could also modify the y-carriage design to fit the motor in front.

Wired1 on Feb 5, 2013 said:

Another builder (Hossmachine) here is building a giant version 12" x 12" or bigger, video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...

Hossmachine on Feb 7, 2013 said:

yes I am, it will be 14x14x14. thanks so much for sharing this, it's a fantastic design and scales up beautifully.

jbernardis on Feb 4, 2013 said:

You have very shallow nut traps for the threaded rods on the X ends. Looks like no more than 1.5 cm. Can you fit a spring in there, or do you just let gravity do the trick?

Wired1 on Feb 4, 2013 said:

Gravity only - I don't use springs on my other printers so it is wasted space. I suppose I should have reduced the top to less but it just happened that way.

cla on Feb 3, 2013 said:

I am starting to build the printer with Misumi extrusions HFS3-1515 instead of open beam.

Do you think there are problems?

Wired1 on Feb 4, 2013 said:

I started down this track because the Misumi extrusions are not readily available in my part of the world (or not affordable anyway) hence the move to Open Beam. I am not sure how the nuts work with your extrusion but in theory if it is 15 x 15 it should fit with all the parts OK. Does the Misumi extrusion use T-nuts or just standard M3 nuts?

jbernardis on Jan 31, 2013 said:

I just noticed the bowden setup. I'm thinking of going that way. How is it working for you? Are you using 3mm or 1.75mm filament? I use, and prefer to use, 3mm, but I'm led to believe that bowden setups work better with 1.75. I'm especially interested in how your extruder works in this arangement. I thought that with bowden tubes, retraction speed was extremely important which would seem to rule out extruders with a reduction gear. I thought direct drive was supposedly the way to go. I like the airtripper extruder, but it's for 1.75mm and I can't get an answer as to whether it could be adapted for 3mm.

tinsoldier on Feb 6, 2013 said:

The Ultimaker community has nearly perfected retraction on their setups over the last few months. They use 3mm filaments, bowden tubes and gear reduction on the extruders just fine. With 3mm filament, you don't have to move the extruder stepper very fast to get significant extrusion rates.

Wired1 on Jan 31, 2013 said:

It is pretty experimental and if it doesn't work I may still make an x-carriage for a standard wade type extruder as a fall back. I prefer 3mm filament and could not find a direct drive 3mm extruder so using a standard extruder as the pusher was the next best thing. Still learning I guess.

Wired1 on Jan 25, 2013 said:

Added two sketches showing the X-carriage assembly.

Hossmachine on Jan 28, 2013 said:

I don't see the Y axis motor mount.

Wired1 on Jan 23, 2013 said:

Added the X-carriage, j-head mount block, extruder pusher mounting plate and extruder adaptor today. Should work with most extruders but use my small footprint one to be sure http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Sanjay on Jan 19, 2013 said:

Really nice looking machine.

Any particular reason for 10mm on the Z linear rods?

Wired1 on Mar 23, 2013 said:

Just to make the x-carriage a little more stable. Next printer I design will be 10mm all round, no flex and better prints.

Wired1 on Jan 19, 2013 said:

Yes it is difficult to get the top completely solid even with aluminium extrusions but the 10mm rod add to the total rigidity and saves me adding lateral triangulation which would do the same thing. The other two axes aren't subject to the same problems and 8mm rods are plenty big enough for them.

Wired1 on Jan 19, 2013 said:

Also added x-ends today, x-carriage and pusher still need a few tweaks but almost there...

Wired1 on Jan 19, 2013 said:

Added BOM in excel as well as tab-delimited today.

rhmorrison on Jan 15, 2013 said:

I don't see how your x-axis is going to be able to get past the cross brace.
What does your x-axis look like?

Wired1 on Jan 15, 2013 said:

I have just added three photos showing the X-ends which should clarify this. I will release all this when I complete the bowden extruder but it clears everything and gives a print height in excess of 200mm.

rhmorrison on Jan 13, 2013 said:

Why do the Z rods extend so far above the top of the machine?

Wired1 on Jan 13, 2013 said:

Well spotted :) I ordered 500mm linear rods all round so they could be shortened - although on my earlier printer I used one of these to take a feed roller for the filament - you can justsee it on the red printer behind.

SystemsGuy on Jan 13, 2013 said:

Very nice - do you know yet if you are going with a horizontal or vertical x-carriage?

Wired1 on Jan 13, 2013 said:

Vertical carriage. I have the ends finished and working on a bowden tube carriage at the mo.

jtktam on Jan 13, 2013 said:

awesome design!