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OpenRC 1:10 4WD Truggy Concept RC Car

by barspin, published

OpenRC 1:10 4WD Truggy Concept RC Car by barspin Jan 14, 2013

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Description

Awarded a GrabCAD Golden Gear for "Top Open Engineering Project 2013"!
This an ongoing project of creating a free for all Open Source RC car that can be printed (to a certain extent of course) at your personal FDM printer at home!
I have tried to keep the design basic for easy modification for others in their favourite CAD software
Also, it's designed for FDM 3D printing.
This is really a proof of concept and i´m very pleased with the result even if there is some work left to be done!
Join the discussion over at Google+: plus.google.com/u/0/communities/112745535856143176146
Introduction video: youtu.be/dElz53EsmtM
Test drive video: youtu.be/uBReuPsthDw
youtu.be/0sfKXO0QP7w

Recent Comments

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This is absolutely amazing. I am going to race this at my local hobby shop.
Yes. They should just print the files with no scaling. Need to finish mine. I have everything printing just need electronics :)
if i bring this files to a 3d print shop wil i need to tell them sizes? or they can just know it from the files?

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Instructions

Additional parts needed:
Electronics (Check here for suggestions on suitable electronics: groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en

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This is absolutely amazing. I am going to race this at my local hobby shop.
if i bring this files to a 3d print shop wil i need to tell them sizes? or they can just know it from the files?
Yes. They should just print the files with no scaling. Need to finish mine. I have everything printing just need electronics :)
For now there are quite a lot .stl's to download, which of these i should print, and how much of each? I'm getting confused about it, or i just don't see an instruction
Very nice work, I'm in the process of printing all the parts and ordering the required parts. Everything working great so far. I noticed on the digital design you have a rear spoiler with supports and some nice hold downs for the body. Do you have the .stl files or do you know where I could find them? Thanks and I'll be sure to post pictures when I'm finished.
NICE!! I am going to build this one! What is the best material for the gears? PLA,ABS or nylon?
Has anyone made a chassis that can fit a makerbot replicator 2?
I designed it to fit on a Replicator 1 so it will fit on your Replicator 2 without problems since it has an even bigger build platform than the Replicator 1. =)
My Makerbot Rep 2 would hit the endstop on the far side, causing it to think it was somewhere else. This caused the entire thing to get shifted. I'm printing this whole car at 95% and its coming together great so far
Any Info on your slicer settings? Infill %, Number of Shells, etc....?
Any information for printing on smaller beds? As it stands I am unable to print the front and rear top plates. Any help would be nice. Thanks.
Not sure if you had seen the update but the following thingi was made by a member that has a build plate of 150x150. Hopefully this helps
Update 2013-08-30: KENisFIS designed new chassis and sideplates to fit on smaller buildplates! Download them here: thingiverse.com/thing:131262
create some way so we can use nitro engines with this
My you make it clear for me which files should be printed? I see some updated files in your things files
Thanks
Same here, I'm itching to get started, so I'm printing stuff that doesn't appear in the Update file, just in case. Please let us know :)
Started my Truggy project last night...going to take some time with this build. Thanks for this totally rad RC car, so much cooler than a printed firearm! More updates on my build soon!
Not sure why but the Center_Diff_Casing_Plate.A.0.stl printed very funky...the back part of the bigger piece on the plate did not print properly. The the big hole and upper hole were carried through and around the corner...it printed support all the way around. I will post pics very soon.
Sliced with Skeinforge (50) in Makerware. 0.20mm 75% infill, support yes, no raft.
could you finish your build?
think about to print one too.
Yo! Got locked outta my Thingiverse/MB account due to a lost PW, the reset process took awhile.
Anyways, I will be resuming my build in about a week as I just heard back on the "small print bed" chassis etc.

I suggest slowing your speed/feed rates way down for printing the gears. Mine keep flying off the bed. Probably going to need bed solution for printing the gears as well (ABS/Acetone mix).
Most everything else printed without issues.
Hey! Apologies for not replying sooner, I had a string of hardware failures and have not been able to get back on Thingiverse until just recently.
I am chugging along with my build. I got the Center Diff Casing to print smoothly. The one hardest thing for me to print is the gears, getting the speed just right has been a challenge. Other than that, I am just contemplating the Top/Bottom Decks and Chassis plates, they are a tad bigger than my printer will allow. There is another version of the decks/plates that are 2-piece and allow for printing on smaller beds. I will be updating my build soon and making a thread for it on the Open RC Google groups.
nice to read you .. waiting for new print News :-)
gears are not simple ;-)
Mostly...still have yet to print the main body parts as they are bigger than my print bed. There is a multi-piece version of the parts I need but have not attempted that one yet as the author noticed some alignment issues.
Also, the C.Dif gears are proving to be difficult. I suggest printing multiple pieces of each part to help with cooling and quality when printing smaller objects etc.
Did you ever get to printing the big body pieces?
Awesome, looking forward to pictures! =)
could i have the cad file for the bevel gear please??
btw this thing is awesome
Check downloads for the bevel gear.
so if you decide to laser cut the chassis plate how do you get the wedge effect in there where its thicker then tapers down?? just curious is there a add in part or different casing?
You wouldn't download a car
Hi, great work! I have a question, I'm building a camera rig/dolly with some rc components, and I'm planing on using a motor from a drifting rc car. So I was wondering what gear reduction are you using? Also are all of your gearing parts printed or do you use a store bought gear for the primary motor reduction(the one mounted on the motor)?
A list and part number for the electronics would be great i click on the google community and it takes me to a new community not related to this. Please help me.
OK, I will setup an updated list for electronics.
Any chance you can update the link for electronics suggestions? That one isn't getting me very far. :-)
barspin - in reply to shap
Sorry, not at home atm. Check to Google + Community, there is the latest list (not posted by me) and those parts are the ones I have ordered.
Outstanding design!
Thanks!
Is the BOM still the same as before, and is there any opensource or free software to open up stp files for figuring out the BOM?
Just started getting into building a prusa i3 about a month ago. Seems like i have sourced everything but the the steppers and the control board. I ran across this thingi and my son's jaw dropped when he saw it, he is 6. We have been talking about buying an rc car or quadcopter. Now that the printer is almost done we can do both on a budget. Will def post my experience on the build and keep the community informed. Thanks for the design.
Hi Hedchange!

Thanks for the comments. I hope you build a car of your own and share your progress and comments with the rest of us on the Google+ community!
Let me know if there are any questions, i'm here to help. =)

/Daniel Norée
Hi..
can you split the wishbones into to 2 files, left and right as the 4 parts want fit my i3 plate size.

thanks
Auzze
Thats cool I got it. I plowed into Blender( finally I have had it for about a year) I figured out enough to delete the right side pair. Thanks again for doing this. It is starting to look good. Really awesome. Love too see this,

Regard's,

Ben Linus,
http://www.nitrotek.nl/
Sounds awesome Ben! Looking forward to seeing your finished car. I have finally started working in mine again! =)
Is it possible to separate Wishbone_Plate.A.
It doesn't feet on my Prusa.
Thank you.
See if these work for you cl.ly/2L1S2q3M3b1e
Thank you, looks great. Will try to finish it ASAP.
Amazing work! I love seeing things like this because it show the possibilities of at-home 3D printers, even if some parts are proof-of-concept.

I am currently running a slightly modified prusa and when I tried to print the chassis plates, they ended up being to big for my print bed. I must not be the only one encountering this problem. I was wondering if it would be possibly to split the bottom plate up into four? I would do it myself but I don't currently have the cash to drop on a Netfabb license and I would imagine that some things would need to be altered for the 4 plates to maintain strength. Maybe you could upload a template for a bottom piece for those who have access to a laser cutter or want to hand cut the bottom.

I am currently printing out the other pieces and I am very excited to drive it around when I finish. Again, props on the design!
Thanks Tommydag for the positive feedback! That´s what makes it all worth it!
About splitting the bottom, do you just want it split in the middle? I can do that for you, i´m not sure what it will do to the chassie in terms of stability though... Let me know.
A split down the middle would work but now that I have thought it over some more, I think there would be structural problems. I know the chassis plates would be too small for anyone running a cupcake as well as myself, so I was wondering if you could provide a simple 2d template for the bottom so that it could be cut by hand or laser cutter.

Thanks for the quick rely!
Hi!

I know the problem as i also have a TOM.

Anyway, i have a added a dwg as requested. Let me know if there are any problems or questions.
Thanks, I can't wait for the printing to finish!
Hi barspin!

A short update: I managed to print most of it with slic3r. Working with 0.8 perimeter thickness and three perimeters is basically the key factor for nices looking parts. I netfabbed the pieces before printing.

The chassis printed successfully. My normal M3 screws dont fit into the lower shield, my caliper says their diameter is 2mm but the hole on the plate is 3mm. Did you use self-cutting screws? I would prefer self-cutting screws over normal m3. They form a better connection.

The center diff is now printing (4 hours) and is looking fine so far.

PS: I would recommend to replace the shockspacers with aluminum parts. If've seen shocks including those spacers.
Hi barspin!

Incredibly inspiring work you have done indeed I must say! I've been thinking about 3D printers for couple of months now and the more I have got information the less I have slept at nights, but now I can't sleep at all! :D

My short scope dream is to build a 1:28 awd racer similar to the Kyosho mini-z. I already have the drive train as I have been trying to make the car with material removing methods but due to lack of decent machinery, progress has been somewhat slow :D

In this scale it might be almost possible to build also the bodies if one could get access to such cad data or had an eye for car design :)

Hmm, I just might be able to get an Ultimaker before the spring if I "forget" my wife's birthday present! Oh boy it's gonna be a long winter! :D

Cheers!!
Hi!

Thanks for the nice comment! I have two 3D Printers and they are the coolest thing i have ever bought! =)

I´m having two bodies scanned and reworked. 1 Truggy body and one Touring Car body. Both 1:10 scale. =)
Hay there, So I have made one. Now I can see that the differentials made of plastic won't hold up to the kind of driving I want to do. I have got a set of LOSI T-Ten dfferential housings. They will work but the bearing are wrong. The side bearings are 12 x 18 x 4 and the input shaft bearing are 5X11X4. The housing that you have made is almost there. I am very much beginner using a CAD. Also you have the original files. I was wondering if you could mod the dif housing so that it will fit the new bearing? The center diff uses that same diff assmebly just with different connectors. So the center need updating as well. I hope you can if not I will try.
Hi, thanks for uploading the picture it´s inspiring! =)

Regarding your requested mod´s i will do them but i would like a favour in return if it´s ok. It would be awesome if you could post a some info on those parts and where to source them over at Google+: plus.google.com/u/0/communities/112745535856143176146

Also, do you drive axles fit the current setup? If so could you provide the same info asbout those aswell for the community?

Thanks!
Very Impressive!! Great job!
Thank you!! =)
Hi Barspin, this looks awesome!
Quick question though, what are the dimensions of the biggest part? Ie, what print area would I need to print this?
Thanks alot, i´m glad you like it! The biggest parts are the front and rear Chassie Plates which are about 180x150mm. The sideguards are something like 220mm long. What kind of printer do you have, and what size is the printbed?
I was wondering this as well. I'm on a PrintrBot+ with a 190x190x190mm print area. Would there be any way to piece out the sideguards to fit the area?
Hi!

I have uploaded the sideguards as separate STL's now. Individually they should fit on your Printbot+
Epic! Once I get the configs bugged out on my printer this is high on my list of things to print. I have a stock of old motors and servos that ive been meaning to use. Major points for all the progress on the OpenRC project, awesome idea.
Absolutely outstanding work on this, I could not believe that pretty much the entire thing was printable. You've inspired me to dust off my printer and print this out, I hope to contribute to the design once I've sourced all the vitamins. I hope you can find the time to continue development and do some testing, I'd love to see this thing working. I've also just noticed from the exploded drawings that it's 4wd, really impressive!
Thanks! I´m happy to hear it got you inspired. =)
I´m going away for a one month vacation so unfortunately there will not be any major updates/tests until mid march... But then it´s game on!!
Ok, I am done with what you have provided but, I am still waiting for the bearings to come in. I put the two top pieces on last night. The trugy Looks very good. However I don't see the standoffs and the part that the center diff fits into. In other words what goes under the top covers?
The missing file (Center Diff Casing Plate.A.0.STL) is now uploaded. Again, thanks alot for the heads up! =)
Oh no, i missed to upload the center diff casing!! Thanks for bringing this to my attention, it is included in the STEP file but i will upload the STL's later tonight! Please note that this part will work but needs to be redesigned in the future. (Aswell as the servo saver).
Hi barspin,
you did an impressive work!
I'm about buying all the stuff I need for the openrc car to have everything prepared, when my replicator will arrive. Can you mention the lengths of the M3 screws? That would help me a lot.
THANKS!!!
I think it might be a good thing to create an exploded view of the intire car together with a proper BOM list. I will upload one when i get holme. Sometime next week!
Thanks for the STP-file. I counted all the crews and came up with the following result:
- Countersunk Head:
42x M3x8
8x M3x12
- Pan Head Cap:
14x M3x8
4x M3x10
6x M3x12
8x M3x16
There is also a need of 22 M3 nuts.
Maybe someone else will help this information :)
Greetings,
McKillex
Thanks for the bom in turns of hardware. Was a little intrigued as it listed in the downloads. This helps a lot. I can actually use most of the leftovers from the build of the Prusa i3 :P didnt know what i was going to do with everything left over but now i do.
I have printed the Dif plate. I print at .28 layer and I am using pla. Any way, did I miss something in the print. I can't seem to find the bevel gear for the incoming drive shaft. Also, If you have one could you post a picture or diagram on how the servo saver look when done. This is so cool! Is this car based on anything that I could buy metal part for? I thing I would like the center dif and the front and back difs to be metal if I can find then and it is not a violation of the all "printed part" code.
The incoming bevel gear should be part of "Bevel_Gear_Drive_Shaft" STL, let me know if you can't find it!
I will post something for the servo saver when i get beack home next week!
That was easy. Ok now for another part I can't find. The little Bar that holds the other side of the wishbone hing and is bolted to the dif Bulkhead? Did I miss another detail? Thanks
Ok, i have now uploaded the missing file (Center Diff Casing Plate.A.0.STL). Again, thanks for the heads up! =)
The missing STL is now uploaded (Wishbone_Pin_Holder). I missed it at first, sorry.
Thanks for the heads up on the "nut hole", I will fix that as soon as I get back home!

Please continue providing feedback, i really appreciate it! Thanks
Hey barspin,

This is it! Great achievement !

I'm currently printing all the parts. I will print all those bulky body parts in PLA for added strength and everything else in ABS. Mendelmax, Slic3r, 0.5 nozzle, 0.2 Layer.

Maybe some hints on sourcing he parts (I live in germany):

Maybe it would be cool to use some kind of upgrade kit for existing cars to source the bearings, suspension and so on. The LRS S10 Blast parts used by MCNugget as well fit in nicely:

LRP Ballbearings 15x10x4mm (10 Pieces) - S10
LRP Ballbearings 10x5x4mm (10 Pieces.) - S10

Can you give me the measurements for the drive shafts and suspension? I will help you creating the BOM for germany!
Hi!

If you live in Germany you can find a lot of parts over at: conrad.de . I'm currently traveling so unfortunately I'm without a computer and cannot help you for a while. You could try to ask someone else to help over a Google+ (link is posted above).
Is it possible to calculate the measurements out of the Step-File? The same question goes for the drive shaft and all those parts which could be available in metal as well (gears, planetary gears). I tried IDA-Step which displays it very nicely but it lacks the tools to measure the stuff. I found normal non sealed ballbearings for 1 Euro per piece on ebay or sealed 2RS for 2,50 Euro per piece.
Hmm, i will post the data for creating rhe ge års when i get back holme next week. All designwork is done in TopSolid 7 (7.6). Source files (TS7 package) available upon request!
Freakin' awesome.
Thanks! :-)
I can't print the wishbone plate. Is there any way you could you could make a front and back plate?
Hi! Thanks, I'm currently traveling and without my laptop. I can do this when I get back but it won't be until next week. Otherwise I think you could do it in Netfabb basic.
That cool I got it. I plowed into Blender( finally I have had it for about a year) I figured out enough to delete the right side pair. One question though. They are the same right? ( the left and right pairs)

Thanks again for doing this. It is starting to look good.
Slic3r has a split function which is very good. I've split the wishbone plate, so I can print one piece at a time.
Did you find it difficult to get a decent slice on the centerdiff gears or the c-hub? I get random errors with missing layer - instead it does bridge some holes. Annoying!
I have been using Skeinforge to print these things. I get some warnings in the slicing stage but, they are fixed it seems in dimension or stretch.
Hmm, no I shade no problems slicing either the gears or the C-hub. Using ReplicatorG 0039.
Ich will switch to replicatorg/skeinforge - slic3r gives me a headache.
Ah, I didn't know that. Thanks for sharing!
OK, good to hear!
Yes, left an right are the same. I was actually thinking about printing them "standing" so that the layers would go "around" the axels for added strength. Don't know if it would actually be better but there will be a lot of force on the wishbones if they would suffer a direct hit so any added strentgh is a good thing.
Looking at it with my minds eye FEM I looks like flat gives the best strength. Z is weakest so front and back and side to side. If it "delaminates" at the hinge maybe add a few extra layers to the outsides.
This is the coolest 3D print thing I've seen. Specially since the best feature is that one can 3D print any part that breaks when using the car. Spare parts are basically for free!
You'll also find a truckload of bearing offers if you just search for the dimensions on ebay.
5x10x4 is size MR105
10x15x4 is size 6700
Try to get a 2RS version - those are actually sealed, while the ZZ variants still allow dust and sand to get into the bearing.
This is great, thanks for all your work! It looks like many of the parts could be laser cut. Do you have DXFs of the flat parts? Although, I am not sure if the parts are made in standard acrylic sheet thicknesses.

Regardless, I will be working on getting one of these printed for sure.

Again, great job!
Hi! The baseplate is 4mm thick and if I'm not mistaken the other flat parts are 6 and 7mm thick.
Do you have a source or part names for the bearings? Like when people list 608zz bearings, they don't usually throw the dimensions like that. What are the actual bearing IDs?
Hey barspin, Great work!

I've been into RC for a while and IM just now getting into 3d printing, I cant wait to combine the two. I have a couple questions:

First of all, what printer are you using? your prints look really high resolution and shiny, are you sanding them after printing?

In terms of design, your ride height looks a little low but you have the front shocks pre-loaded all the way down, is weight going to be an issue? or do you just need stronger springs on the front?

Im looking forward to playing around with your design!
Hi SteelyDan!

Thanks for the nice comment! Everything is printed on a Replicator. All parts are printed with a layer height of either 0,2mm or 0,25mm. No sanding.

Regarding the shocks i just used what i had at hand which was from my 20+ years old Kyosho. When i was 12 years old i decided it would be a good idea to glue the shocks that way. One might have to do some adjustments to fit your own shocks. If you (or anyone else) need help with that let me know!

Regarding the weight... it´s all plastic and light as a feather! ;-)
What's the weight of the printed parts as you printed them? Or approximate guess on part of a roll that was used?

Curious so I can 'budget' plastic for this.

I think both my old rear wheel drive TC3s are going to get re-built to this design!
Sorry for the somewhat late reply. I'm not sure about the weight, I printed everything with a low infill to quickly be able to put together a prototype. So for that I used maybe half a roll of MBI ABS.
Half a roll is good enough. About half a Kilo, or ~$25 worth to prototype. Probably close to the hole roll for denser parts.
I'd expect that not all parts need to be really dense. It could be worthwhile to give your prototype a run and just print the bits that break more densely.
Flippin Awesome Sauce! You should make it look like the Toy Story RC Car though ;)
This looks awesome, I have always wanted to get in to rc cars. What a great way to easily get into a hobby.
I've been waiting for this one, thank you so much!
I'm in love with you man!!!!!!!!!!!
10x
This is sooo cool!
This is the greatest 3D-printable toy! Thanks for sharing this with the RC-enthusiasts world!
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