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Hadron (ORD Bot) Z-Axis Wobble Absorber

by flurin, published

Hadron (ORD Bot) Z-Axis Wobble Absorber by flurin Jan 14, 2013

Description

The Hadron is a great 3D-Printer, I was one of the first user and I don't want to miss it. This is one of my improvements for the Hadron, it's derived from brnrd's thing:38534.

Update 23 Jan, 2013
Going on with the Z-Wobble improvement the diameter can be reduced to 10mm.

Update 27 Jan, 2013
Increased tolerance to off-center. (14x11.2mm)

Recent Comments

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brnrd, I appreciate your feedback, this will help improving the design.

1. Tolerance to off-center

You have the choice, if you need more tolerance just use my first Z-AxisBlock, which has a diamenter of 16mm. However my threaded rod combined with my coupler dosen't need so much, 10mm is ok. By the way the threaded rod will not be demaged if the threaded rod touch the block.

2. Z-Endstop failure

The same applies to the X- and Y-axes. I didn't esperience endsop failures during the normal operation so far, only at start up.

In this case there is a solution, just cut out the MakerSlide after the home position, so that the bar can rotate with the threaded rod. But honestly I don't think we need to do this, because endstop failures aren't really a problem.

3. I often lift manually the candry to the top position and fix it for setup operations. At the end I lift the candry down again. This is easy to do and you don't need to repositioning the bar, as you have to do with your design.
Note that this design as well as fma's version would have less tolerance to off-center and bent z threaded rod than my design. Also, if the z endstop should fail during the homing process, the z nut would be driven all the way down to the z coupler while it would stop just past the post on mine.
Nice! Much less plastic and do it should print much faster.

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Instructions

1. Print the parts.

Slicer Settings I used:
Layer height: 0.25 mm
Perimeters: 3
Fill density: 0.4
Speed: 50 mm/s
Filament: PLA
Nozzle diameter: 0.35 mm

2. The mounting holes in the Z-AxisBlock are meant to be tapped with M5 threads (I used a M5 screw).

3. Mount the parts according to the image. You need 4 additional M5x9mm screws.

Update Z-AxisBlockV2 and Z-AxisBlockV3:

We don't need to tap the holes with M5 threads, instead we can use M4 screws and nuts to mount the Z-AxisBlock and have the screws well tighten.
Note that this design as well as fma's version would have less tolerance to off-center and bent z threaded rod than my design. Also, if the z endstop should fail during the homing process, the z nut would be driven all the way down to the z coupler while it would stop just past the post on mine.
brnrd, I appreciate your feedback, this will help improving the design.

1. Tolerance to off-center

You have the choice, if you need more tolerance just use my first Z-AxisBlock, which has a diamenter of 16mm. However my threaded rod combined with my coupler dosen't need so much, 10mm is ok. By the way the threaded rod will not be demaged if the threaded rod touch the block.

2. Z-Endstop failure

The same applies to the X- and Y-axes. I didn't esperience endsop failures during the normal operation so far, only at start up.

In this case there is a solution, just cut out the MakerSlide after the home position, so that the bar can rotate with the threaded rod. But honestly I don't think we need to do this, because endstop failures aren't really a problem.

3. I often lift manually the candry to the top position and fix it for setup operations. At the end I lift the candry down again. This is easy to do and you don't need to repositioning the bar, as you have to do with your design.
Nice! Much less plastic and do it should print much faster.
Thanks for sharing!
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