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Raspberry Pi Case

by mechadrafter, published

Raspberry Pi Case by mechadrafter Jan 18, 2013

Description

A case I designed for the raspberry pi.

Recent Comments

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i have modded this to be extruder printer friendly. adding feet and increasing the high of the side grove that holds the top shell. and eliminating the step in the top shell

Well, how you should proceed depends on your printer. When I designed this, I was using a higher end 3D printer which uses a soluble support material, which is dissolved after the print is done. That way having overhangs isn't a problem.

However, most hobby printers don't have that option. To get around that, if you were so inclined, your best option would be to modify the models and add some support columns underneath. How many you need and what width will depend on your specific printer. Ideally you'll want to design them so that they can be snapped off easily.

I hope that was of some help! Sorry the design isn't more hobby printer friendly, when I originally made it I was just intending it for my own personal use, then just kind of posted it here on a whim. Good luck!

How do you print the outer case file with the floating base? the supports dont seem to work, about to try with the raft option selected. But any insight here would help. Maybe revise the intructions as well since this isnt intuitive either.?

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Instructions

1-25-13 Update:

Per request, I have uploaded STL files that are drastically smaller. They're technically "rougher", but for 3D printing you probably won't notice a difference. Use the files marked "1-25 Rough" (in either mm or inches) if you want to 3D print them. And use the files marked "1-24" if you want to work with the STL files.

1-24-13 Update:

It's been brought to my attention that the STL files I've uploaded may be scaled improperly. I've noticed Solidworks often has issues when saving metric STL files. So, I'm leaving the original STL files, but I'm also uploading two sets of new STL files. The first set (with the suffix "1-24") was saved in millimeters. The second set (with the suffix "1-24 Inches") was saved in inches. If the mm version doesn't work, give the inches version a try, as Solidworks seems to be better about saving STL files that way.


Instructions:

Print the two pieces (Inner Case and Outer Case), and see if it fits your Raspberry Pi. You might need to do some light sanding or filing to make it fit (I didn't give it much clearance).

To make it look pretty, sand the outside of each piece smooth (avoid mating surfaces), prime, and paint.

Comments

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KMM on Dec 24, 2013 said:

i have modded this to be extruder printer friendly. adding feet and increasing the high of the side grove that holds the top shell. and eliminating the step in the top shell

BoyDrone on Sep 11, 2013 said:

How do you print the outer case file with the floating base? the supports dont seem to work, about to try with the raft option selected. But any insight here would help. Maybe revise the intructions as well since this isnt intuitive either.?

mechadrafter on Sep 11, 2013 said:

Well, how you should proceed depends on your printer. When I designed this, I was using a higher end 3D printer which uses a soluble support material, which is dissolved after the print is done. That way having overhangs isn't a problem.

However, most hobby printers don't have that option. To get around that, if you were so inclined, your best option would be to modify the models and add some support columns underneath. How many you need and what width will depend on your specific printer. Ideally you'll want to design them so that they can be snapped off easily.

I hope that was of some help! Sorry the design isn't more hobby printer friendly, when I originally made it I was just intending it for my own personal use, then just kind of posted it here on a whim. Good luck!

talkers on Jan 27, 2013 said:

Beautiful case!!!
I would love to cut this out on a laser cnc. I'll take a look at the files and see if I can convert them to SVG.

mechadrafter on Jan 27, 2013 said:

Thanks!

This was designed for 3D printing, so the design would need to be modified to be able to be laser cut. And, of course, the round edges aren't possible with a laser, but you could sand them afterwards.

If you want to modify the design, I'd recommend splitting the "outer" case into 3 parts (sides and bottom). Then make the "inner" case into a flat pattern. Then you can cut it from acrylic and heat and bend the acrylic after it's cut.

If you do that, post up a remix, I'd love to see it!

naught101 on Jan 25, 2013 said:

Why is the file size of the base so huge? Are the surfaces textured?

mechadrafter on Jan 25, 2013 said:

I just had it set to "fine", which makes it large because of the curves. The original version was rough. I'm not convinced that there is actually a difference, even with an industrial printer like I use, but I figured you guys might appreciate it if you wanted to modify the STL files.

I think Solidworks also handles STL files poorly, I've had relatively simple parts that ended up being like 250mb.

If it's a problem, I can work on getting a smaller rough version uploaded tomorrow.

Anonymous on Jan 25, 2013 said:

Why is the file size so freaking huge on the new mm version?

BitBuilder on Jan 24, 2013 said:

When I open the .stl files in ReplicatorG, the parts are tiny. Is it possible the stl file was not exported using millimeter dimensions?

mechadrafter on Jan 24, 2013 said:

I thought it was millimeter, but it's possible it could have been inches, so give that a try. Solidworks also gives me trouble with metric STL files a lot, so if possible you could even be something odd like centimeters. Tomorrow I'll try to get new STL files uploaded.

sbeckeriv on Jan 20, 2013 said:

I cant get slicr to finish generating the gcode for the bottom. I tried rotating it in netfab so the bottom was on the printbed but no luck. Anyone else having issues with slicr 0.9.7?

mechadrafter on Jan 21, 2013 said:

Sorry, I can't help you there, I'm not familiar with slicr. It's possible if slicr doesn't allow support material (or your printer doesn't have it), it's not allowing you to create the gcode because the bottom part does require support material. If you're not able to use support material, you could modify the bottom part so that the "floor" (with the vent slots) is solid and extends all the way to the ground. Then there shouldn't be any major overhangs and support material hopefully won't be necessary. The cutouts for the various connection might pose a problem as well, depending on your printer.

Basically, I designed this to be made with a machine that uses support material.

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