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Printrbot Bed Stabilizer

by Crispy001, published

Printrbot Bed Stabilizer by Crispy001 Jan 19, 2013

Description

These stabilizers replace the zip-ties originally used to position the LM8UU linear bearings on the Printrbot LC.

thingiverse.com/soke is developing a modified version for the PB+ V1.

The end result is a sturdier print bed and chassis for better printing. Inspiration taken from the official Printrbot stabilizer upgrade.

Volume: 2.12 cubic inches
ABS Weight: .08 pounds

Recent Comments

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Don't forget to add it as a remix when you're done! :)

Thank you! I have solidworks 2013, so no problem.

Sorry for the delay! The part was modeled in Solidworks 2012, only Solidworks 2012 or newer will be able to edit the original file. Regardless, here's the non-directional version of the part: https://dl.dropboxusercontent....

You'll have to mirror the part and cut the endstop clearance space yourself!

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Instructions

1. Print one left stabilizer and one right stabilizer. They're different parts, so don't mix them up! The left stabilizer has been confirmed to clear the Y endstop on the Printrbot LC.

Left Stabilizer requires:
2 #6-32 x 3/4" Screws
2 M3 x 16mm Screws
2 M3 Nuts

Right Stabilizer requires:
2 #6-32 x 3/4" Screws
2 M3 x 16mm Screws (screws into Y axis motor)

2. Attach the stabilizer plates to your Printrbot. Insert some folded paper between the bearing and the bearing slot(s) to adjust desired tightness. Don't tighten the screws down all the way yet!

3. Slide the smooth rods through both bearings and tighten the screws. At this point you can try wiggling the rod around to test everything out. Keep in mind the feet and base of the Printrbot will deflect if you push hard enough, but your print bed will be secure! Be sure to not overtighten the M3 screws that screw into the Y carriage motor either, as stripping those threads will cause you problems.


Notes:
Both parts will require supports to print successfully.
Drilling out the screw holes to the proper diameter may/will be necessary. (9/64" and 1/8" for #6-32 and M3 respectively, if memory serves.)

I recommend using the bed stabilizer in conjunction with my z axis stabilizer for additional robustness! thingiverse.com/thing:55053

Comments

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soke on Aug 2, 2013 said:

This didn´t work for my Plus V1. The M3 holes are too far in to make the pice fit properly. http://i.imgur.com/bGkgWf8.jpg
Perhaps you can provide the original files so we can make changes?
Thank you.

Crispy001 on Aug 8, 2013 said:

Sorry for the delay! The part was modeled in Solidworks 2012, only Solidworks 2012 or newer will be able to edit the original file. Regardless, here's the non-directional version of the part: https://dl.dropboxusercontent....

You'll have to mirror the part and cut the endstop clearance space yourself!

abdrumm on Feb 12, 2013 said:

Beautiful design and rendering! Way to go! Thanks for the great work.
-Brook

Crispy001 on Feb 12, 2013 said:

Wow! A comment from the man himself!

Unfortunately I can't take all the credit! The wooden renders used djmad's parametric models and of course the part itself is practically a clone of your work at PBHQ (sorry!). Keep up the good work over there!

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