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Heated Bed Clips

by TheBogueRat, published

Heated Bed Clips by TheBogueRat Jan 21, 2013

Description

Update 1/26/2003: I'm getting about eight hours out of these and they loosen up.

Still happy but don't expect them to hold the glass in place under lateral force from the nozzle pushing on uplifted prints.

Clips for the solidoodle 2 glass bed mod because binder clips stick out too far so the door can't be closed.

Designed for 5.4mm glass/bed thickness.

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The aluminum heated bed with a single power resistor was warped. I'm actually using the medium binder clips again as the enclosure was causing my filament to bend and jam the extruder. The Solidoodle needs more head room for the filament to enter, I've seen some mods that lift the enclosure up but I still had problems unless the filament came in at least 2 inches above the top of the frame.

I finally solved my problem by getting really huge binder clips (My reason for not using clips was because the base was too thick, and binder clips i could find at the local store werent big enough). That only solves my problem, but not yours. You might need to get a new bed, and do the L lining and binder clips before the bed gets warped. Just out of curiosity. Is your bed aluminium with power resistors?. Does it have a wooden base thats warped?

I'll take a look at the teflon and possibly other heat repellents.

I semi-solved the warped bed by bolting aluminum angle to each side with the warp. I still had to shim on one end because the warp was stronger than the support. Now the bed is warping very slightly upward but the glass lays flat and has more points of contact with the heated bed.

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Instructions

Print and use on opposing sides of the bed where it is flat and highest.

My bed was warped, high in the middle but even from left to right. So my clips went left and right middle. This means the glass is higher than the front and rear edge but clipping from the front with the binder clips was causing the back to lift nearly 3mm, and binder clips on the sides were catching on the Y axis.

The flatter ones seem better and have a smaller profile if you are printing near the edges.

I made the larger ones first and they don't fit as tight, possibly from exposure to the high heat. Anyway, it's cheap to print off a few as they wear out.

Comments

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sudhir on Jan 21, 2013 said:

Maybe you can mod it so that a piece of teflon/bakelite goes between the bed and the clips? That should eliminate the problem of heatbed induced deformations. I have a different printer but have the same bed warp problem, and binder clips dont work for me either. Yet to find a good permanent solution. But was thinking of making some teflon lined mini-G-clamps

TheBogueRat on Jan 21, 2013 said:

I'll take a look at the teflon and possibly other heat repellents.

I semi-solved the warped bed by bolting aluminum angle to each side with the warp. I still had to shim on one end because the warp was stronger than the support. Now the bed is warping very slightly upward but the glass lays flat and has more points of contact with the heated bed.

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