High Strength Print Bed for 618 Nylon
by Taulman, published
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So quick question. The garolite has been super for adhesion. But how have folks been cleaning residue off? Also I had one piece stuck so well that it took some of the surface with it.
What is a good substance to clean with?
I am printing on a Prusa I3 at 240c with the bed at 30C. 0.3mm first layer/0.1mm other layers.
Ii have been using the garolite le and its been hit or miss. i'll do one print and the parts are bonded so well they are extremely hard to get off then ill run the same gcode again and it curls right off the bed. i tried sanding the garolite and that made adhesion worse. what i did and am having great results with now is i glassbeaded the surface of the garolite. it removes the top resin leaving the pores in the cloth. just run your first layer tight so i pushes the nylon into the pores on the surface. run the nozzle a little hotter 1st layer and i heat the bed to 70deg for layer 1 only then shut it off. the idea is to get the nylon worked into the surface really well so you have mechanical adhesion. so far the adhesion has been very consistant. you can get the parts off fairly easily with a razor scraper and not break anything.
I've been using the Garolite Hard and Strong (XX) from Mcmaster-Carr with great success and no heated bed. It was the cheapest version of Garolite and I figured I would see how well it would stick and so far I haven't had any problems with it. If the part is large and 618 squished down it is hard to get off the sheet but, doesn't take very much Garolite with it once I get it off. I also noticed that increasing the first layer speed as usually I run at 35% speed of my other layers will decrease the sticking effect of the Garolite. So if I run my bottom layer at 50 or 60 percent it won't stick nearly as much as lower numbers. What would be nice is if there was a way to make it slow down at the edges and corners and run faster in the center of large prints. That way I wouldn't require the blue tape hatch pattern to keep the parts from being to hard to get off the build platform. I guess there is probably a way to post process the gcode for the first layer with Perl or something like that but, I'm no good with gcode so... I also used the opaque black version and the part number I used was 85315K114. Hope this helps someone else.
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The Nylon base will stick extremely well to any cellulous material. Garolite LE is a low cost board material (Sometimes called a "Composite") that is manufactured by soaking a combination of cloth and cellulous fibers in a heat curable resin, then compressing the laminations as heat is added. The result is an extremely stong board like material with a smooth surface. With an increasing number of Industrial users along with Universities and machine shops wanting to print 618 with accurate dimentional and surface flatness qualities, a series of tests were divised using the attached .stl.
As the amount of material printed increases, the applied thermal stress increases on layers below. While other materials did well with prints that had limited first layer surface area, only the Garolite LE performed to the requirments of these organizations. In testing, the Garolite performed to the point of needing to have some of the surface area taped off to "limit" contact with 618 as early parts had to be removed destructivly.
As noted in the attached photo, over 50% of the contact area is taped off from the Garolite to accomodate part removal.
The part is 150mm long, 90 degree wedge, 10mm wide at the top and 2mm wide at the contact surface.
The photo shows a part printed:
1 solid layer
After one hour of cooling, there was less than one thread separation at the the extreme ends and then only one end.
The test part was allowed to normalize for 2 hours and then bowing along the long axis was measured at less than .2mm
Garolite LE Source = McMaster Carr
12" x 12" =
6" x 6" =
Reference was thingiverse.com/thing:26955
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