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Gimbal for a SteadiCam

by rhmorrison, published

Gimbal for a SteadiCam by rhmorrison Oct 10, 2010

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Description

This is a Gimbal designed for a DIY SteadiCam that I made for a colleague at work (See http://www.yb2normal.com/DIYsteadicam.html).

It makes use of two 624 bearings in addition to the required 608 bearing. It would also be possible to use four 624 bearings or to use no 624 bearings. I thought using two was a good compromise. If you decide to use no 624 bearings then the height of the middle ring can be reduced to 16mm (same as the outer ring) or even 12mm.

Recent Comments

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I am working on a new version of my desing.

thingiverse.com/thing:6111

Mark I printed fine and is working well.
Mark II shall improve the handle at the expense of more complicated printing.
Ah, I see.

Sad that they don't use a format that can be imported into other CAD-programs.

Makes

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License

Public Domain
Gimbal for a SteadiCam by rhmorrison is licensed under the Public Domain license.

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Instructions

First glue the 608 bearing to the center of the Inner ring and the two 624 bearings to their proper location in the Middle ring. Then attach the 4mm cap screw from the outside of the Outer ring to the Middle ring. On each side of a ring there should be a washer. It should be as follows: cap head, washer, outer ring, washer, nut, nut, washer, 624 bearing, washer and finally the nut.

Now attach the Middle ring to the Inner ring by using 4mm cap screw, washer, middle ring, washer, nut.

Adjust as necessary to get good movement.

Really cool.

I just designed a gimbal myself (parametric, not STL triangle-mesh)

using 608-bearings and allowing for a handle.

That was of cause before I noticed this thing.
I am working on a new version of my desing.

thingiverse.com/thing:6111

Mark I printed fine and is working well.
Mark II shall improve the handle at the expense of more complicated printing.
(moved) SteadyCam Mark II
BUT... You haven't posted your design yet! =-O
Having a closer look I think you can get rid of the nuts for ABS.

Screws easily cut their own thread through ABS and are then super-tight.

Without nuts this gets smaller.

Sinkhole-screws may also be used to make it even smaller.

What thickness of the ABS-rings and what solidness did you use to hold what kind of weight?
How did it work out?
1. Mine is parametric - it is done using OpenSCAD!

2. Again, look at the OpenSCAD file, it's all there.

3. I used PLA.

4. My colleague hasn't finished building it yet but it is supposed to hold a fairly heavy digital SLR camera. Initial tests look good but until he finishes it and puts it to 'real' use we won't know.
Ah, I see.

Sad that they don't use a format that can be imported into other CAD-programs.
cool, i wonder if i can remake with the laser. :-D
Should be pretty easy to do...
"This video contains content from UMG. It is not available in your country."

:(
YES, I know!

But then, I didn't post the link either. :-P
ES, I know!

But then, I didn't reply to you either. :-P
Ok, now that is sweet. Here I am going literally going though books of antiquities to find cool stuff to post and you post something VERY useful. Good job dude!

Will be printed tomorrow :)
Lol on the french butter dish... ironically, this is a question I asked SpaceX once before... how water-tight are prints? How many shell layers are needed to ensure water tightness?

It seems I would have two issues with water tightness; when the head moves from drawing the perimeter to the interior on my first layer (and others), it sometimes takes a second to start extruding, leaving a line of plastic that's too thin to mate with its neighbors. Secondly, skeinforge doesn't
always completely fill a layer; sometimes when I print there are gaps slightly less than the print width in the first layer diagonals, and it never gets filled...
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