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Heater Block

by rp_one_labs, published

Heater Block by rp_one_labs Jan 25, 2013

Description

UPDATED Design Rev 1.1, Mach 30, 2013. Changes:
1. 6.5mm diam x 1.5mm deep bore for mounting of Makerbot's MK7 & MK8 nozzles.
2. Second 2.5mm diam. thermistor hole on opposite side.
3. Tumbling for nice uniform surface finish.

Heater Cartridge, as a heating element of hot end, became affordable alternative to power resistor.

This design solves the problem of mounting heater cartridge on M6 threaded barrels,
works flawlessly with Makergear hot end, can replace Makerbot stepstruder Mk7 heater block and should work with other M6 threaded barrels/hot ends.

DIY kit - block + cartridge + thermistor + PTFE sleeves + conn
ebay.com/itm/221181798222

Recent Comments

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Please, try to post your problem with all the details and messages on the firmware forum. It is very difficult to debug based on this small piece of information.

i copy-paste this but it says error here

uint16_t temptable[NUMTEMPS][2] PROGMEM = {

Please, take a look at http://www.reprap.org/wiki/The...
wiki page has piece of code: firmware thermistor temperature table for B57560G104F

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License

GNU - GPL
Heater Block by rp_one_labs is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

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If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag. Print Thing Tag

Instructions

Consult with supplied PDF drawing for details.

I.) For CNC machining: This thing to be machined from 3/8" x 3/4" 6061-T6 extruded bar, then tapped M3 & M6 according to drawing. Machining strategy is up to you. Use STL file and drawing to create G-code.

II.) You can make it manually from 3/8" x 3/4" 6061-T6 extruded bar stock:
- Cut 18.5mm long piece of extruded bar preferably with band saw.
Manual hack saw gives less straight cut, you might need to file
rough side for better appearance.
- Mark hole centers according to drawing.
- Drill necessary holes using drill press (not manual drill),
consult with drawing for drill bit diameters. Make small pilot holes
prior to drill holes for M6 and heater, for better centering.
- Tap M6 hole preferably on the drill press, for straigtness.
- M3 set screw hole can be tapped manually.

Use kapton tape or, better, steel epoxy, to mount thermistor in 2.5mm diam. hole.

Comments

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rp_one_labs on Apr 29, 2013 said:

Hello, this is B57560G104F thermistor. I added part number to the item description. You can find quite a few PDF datasheets by searching this part number. Thanks!

pionner on Apr 29, 2013 said:

thank you ,if you could help me i would be greatfull!

http://forums.reprap.org/read....

pionner on Apr 29, 2013 said:

Hi Sir, that's very nice, i just bought it but i want to ask, what is the type of the thermistor. Is it EPCOS 100K Thermisto#3(B57560G104F)

or

EPCOS 100K Thermistor (B57560G1104F) or somethign
else?

I am trying to do Thermistor lookup table but i
cannot

flateric on Mar 24, 2013 said:

I have purchased the cartridge heater, block and thermistor combo from rp_labs and I just thought I would say how really nice they are.

The cartridge in particular rather than using a resistor or wire is really nice. The extra long leads on them is also perfect because it cuts down on connectors and joins in the cramped hot end area. Nothing to come loose or disconnect in the heat.

The aluminium block is really well done too and works perfectly in my Delta printer (rostock max) I plan to eventually run two of them in the delta in fact. The are so lightweight that I'm not at all concerned about the delta throwing them around.

But really great product that has eliminated potential problems for me in my setup.

rp_one_labs on Mar 24, 2013 said:

Thanks! I glad you liked it!

JelleAtProtospace on Jan 26, 2013 said:

what a massive amount of metal! I presume this is not intended for a light bowden setup like on the ultimaker? They are moving to way smaller blocks, but still with the same parts. The reason is simple: less metal == less weight == less time to heat up and cool down. Quick temperature changes are very nice for multi-head prints, cool the idle while the other heats up, should prevent the horrible oozing that plagues dual head setups as it is now.

rp_one_labs on Jan 26, 2013 said:

Mass of the block itself is ~6.5 grams, little less than makerbot's stepstruder block. You presented with the idea, and based on your extensive ;-) knowledge you decide to include it in your design or not.

dkennell on Jan 26, 2013 said:

Thanks, we need a good way to change MakerGear nozzles on the machine. Using Kapton tape to hold the thermister works great, but is inconvenient. I am experimenting with using a setscrew in the grovemount to keep the barrel from unthreading so just the nozzle comes off.

rp_one_labs on Jan 26, 2013 said:

There is a better way to do it. I just added one more picture, take a look. Hold hex on barrel with 1/4" open wrench, use another wrench to screw on-off your nozzles.

Weedz on Jan 25, 2013 said:

think this is gr8, but thingyverse is not a advertising site for your personal/business stuff.....

rp_one_labs on Jan 25, 2013 said:

You are correct, sir, about my intentions to advertise through thingiverse. You are also correct that it is a business. Thingiverse been used for advertisement, if you haven't notice it yet. The name "Makerbot Thingiverse" is Makerbot advertisement. I publish my thing with necessary documentaion,, so you can do it yourself, I also give option to buy it. I have guts to put direct link to buy it, instead of "you can also try to find it this website LINK".

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