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The Orange Screamer - A wide-area annoyance device

by AndyGadget, published

The Orange Screamer - A wide-area annoyance device by AndyGadget Sep 7, 2014

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61962Views 21298Downloads Found in Toys & Games
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Summary

This is a pocket sized turbo whistle or siren which emits a loud and extremely annoying WHEEEEEEEEEEE when you blow into it. I've done a full write-up on Instructables : http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Orange-Screamer/ and you can see a video of it in action here : https://vimeo.com/105474925. (The camera mic doesn't really pick up the full range and volume of it.)
This design was inspired by Instructables user Kiteman, who published a perspex laser cut version.

Instructions

The rotor sits on the spindle and then the lid is glued on with cyanoacrylate adhesive. However, you will get best performance if you slightly sand the parts in contact to get rid of any roughness left from the printing. A drop of light oil or silicone spray in the works before gluing will help things too. Reducing friction is the name of the game.

In the ZIP file there are files for the body, rotor and lid in RSDOC format (the native Designspark format) and STL format. I've also included files in SketchUp (V8) format, a THING file for use directly on a MakerBot and a file with just one rotor blade in case anyone wants to play around with the geometry. (The SKP files are an export from Designspark and I haven't tested how well they import into SketchUp.)

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Printed 6 of these. 5 work. =) #1-5 printed on PLA at .15 work great with a little WD-40.

6 that doesn't work was printed with ABS at .25.

I printed and all pieces fit but it doesn't work for me, the fan doesn't spin.

Depending on your printer, it will need some degree of post-print fettling to get best performance. My write-up of this on Instructables gives a bit more detail : http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Orange-Screamer/

this doesnt work i didnt change size shape ANYTHING all i did was download and hit print and NONE of the peices fit not a single peice fit and when i tried to put it together they broke because they cant fit!!!!

Feb 28, 2016 - Modified Feb 28, 2016
AndyGadget - in reply to Sky_Block_King

There's been 82 published makes of this and over 19,000 downloads without anyone mentioning problems with the assembly so it must be the way you're printing it rather than the design. What are you using and can you print other items successfully? Printing in PLA or ABS? What temperature? Any chance of a photo? One thing you may need to do if your printer is over-extruding is to clear the top-plate holes a little to accommodate the pegs.

Your whistle is being stolen by Just3dprint for sale on their ebay page.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printed-Orange-Screamer-Toy-Whistle-/262259714539?hash=item3d0fe5a9eb:g:XFYAAOSwX~dWprym
this is in violation of your CC license. You should contact them to take it down, and check for any other designs in violation of your CC license.

Yep, I know. I posted a VeRO a couple of days ago.

Use a q-tip dipped in acetone to help loosen the hole a bit.

I stuck this on my car's muffler, now you can drive around and annoy people! Great print!

The whistles go WOO WOOOO!

Printed, assembled and annoying people within 20 minutes. Bloody good fun.

Took a couple of minutes to get the fan loose enough inside the shell. I'd post a photo if I knew how. Here's a Vine instead.

https://vine.co/v/OpggATxxV0q

I like the idea you would design something with the sole function of being annoying :)

Great gadget, most dogs look at me really strange or just run away.
It sits on the shelf in the kitchen and I give it a blow when ever I see it, it's brilliant.
Bob

Just a bit of olive oil and it works great!

Just a tip: Tefspray/PTFE spray works even better!

Good call - That would be perfect.

Sep 30, 2014 - Modified Sep 30, 2014
Ohmarinus - in reply to AndyGadget

Thanks, I hope other people have as good experiences with it as I have.

In some cases corn oil can also work, it's a bit more viscous so will drip less, but PTFE/Teflon spray gives a lower friction coëfficiënt, especially with PLA plastic.

Could you give me the Dimensions of this Screamer?

It's 35mm at it's widest point by 40mm.
That's around 1 1/4" x 1 5/8"

Be advised: in the .zip, the .thing is set to print on the "left" extruder. Might wanna fix that :).

jbs - in reply to jjansen

yah

Hi I used OLIVE OIL
That works great and it taste better than WD40
Works pretty fine.
Children and adolts like it !
Thanks for the upload.

Sep 15, 2014 - Modified Sep 15, 2014

Hello, this is amazing. But i have problem. I cant make any sound if I take it together. It makes sound if i take the lid little bit up. Then it make some sound and the rotor is going around fast. But if take everything together properly it wont make any sound. I have not use glue yet, but i will if this thing will work. But I have tried to get everything good and well when I sand the parts. Why wont it work?

Use olive oil.
works great!

I just printed this and olive oil made it run a lot better, good call

Hmmmm . . . . . Check is that your centre pin isn't too small, or your rotor hole too large - The rotor shouldn't touch the outside of the case at any point. Also check that the pointed lip where the air enters doesn't foul the rotor - trim off about 1/2 mm at the very tip. Roll up a small bit of sandpaper too, and smooth the inside of the rotor hole. With the lid off, you should be able to flick the rotor and it will spin for a couple of seconds.
Lubricating it and gluing the lid on does improve the performance a lot, but it should still work before gluing.

I finally got it to work, but I printed a new body. But I dont get the perfect sound that u get in the video.

what video?

I found butter to be a wonderful lubricant/grease for these whistles. Handing these out to kids I didn't want to use a petroleum product. I tried olive oil and then butter. I like the butter much better.

Butter? - That's the Mad March Hare in you coming out.
(I hope there were no crumbs in it ;¬)

Ha ha ha.

I have just made one of these using clear PLA and will post some photos once my other three have finished printing. I intend to print the rotors in different colours to make blue screamers, red screamers and so on. One thought though .... if you were to flip Lid.stl then the smooth, (I use a glass print bed), side of both lid and body would be on the outside of the finished object giving (IMHO) a better finish.

Good work!
Alan

HAH - You noticed! I do actually print it with the topside down (and the .thing file reflects this). I was going to swap this in the bare .STL file but haven't had a chance yet.
Printing PLA onto a glass bed is on my 'things to try' list - What sort of temperature do you heat the bed to?

Although I have used plain glass for quite a while at bed temperature setting of 70C, I now brush on a very dilute solution of PVA glue as I found that cheaper quality filament does not stick as well as the high end stuff. Once the glass is coated with a thin layer of PVA, I have had excellent results with every brand of PLA which I have tried. How dilute? The bottle I made up many months ago has the consistency of water but the colour of milk - not very helpful I know but all you need is a thin coat of PVA on the glass once the water has evaporated.

Alan

I've just tried my first print onto glass exactly as you detailed and it's lovely - Oh so shiny and smooth.
Goodbye painters' tape - Hello shiny prints!
Thanks for the tips.

I make lots of PLA prints on a glass bed set at 70C. To help with adhesion, pour some cheap light beer (I use Bud Light since there was some laying around) on the glass and let it dry. It makes the glass sticky and produces smooth and shiny surfaces.
-Kevin

Thanks for the tip.
At last, a use for Bud Light. (It's rumoured that some people actually drink the stuff, but that seems a bit far fetched #;¬)

We use Aqua Net super hold ( the one in the purple can ) ... because it's meant to go in hair, it's warm/hot water soluble. Since it is basically a lacquer, it's sticky when hot, and brittle when cool. To date, it's the single best "magic stick-um" spray I've found.

If you are in a country where aqua-net isn't sold, look for a water soluble hairspray. Some are not, and rely on soap and rinsing action to remove them from hair (and are best removed with alcohol.) Buy and test, YMMV. Always use "strong hold" varieties.

Sep 13, 2014 - Modified Sep 13, 2014
AndyGadget - in reply to martinbogo

I'm just off to buy the glass now. I'll give it a go with the PVA first, because I've got some of that to hand already.

i'm going to print 4 of this and put on my RC plane wing and annoy everyone at my flying field lol

Ah, the old Stuka dive-bomber type effect. You may not get enough airflow into the mouthpiece without adding a flared intake of some sort, but it's well worth trying.

You should add a keychain loop. One on each half would be nice to increase structural rigidity.

Nice idea. I'll give that some thought for the Mk2 version.

Yep, I spent 30 minutes in slic3r trying to slice the one I repaired with netfabb basic, then ran it through netfabb cloud and it sliced in about 1 second.

Fixed rotor now posted - Thanks Dan.

Nice Thing. Thanks for sharing it.

Note that the Rotor8.stl is non-manifold and will not slice correctly with several slicers. (I used the one in the Screamer.zip file.) Unfortunately, that's a common problem with Sketchup and some of the other CAD packages when they output STL files. (And MakerWare is pretty sloppy about these things as well.) You should upload your STLs to netfabb.com's free "cloud" service and let it repair them first. In general that's a good practice before uploading any STLs for sharing.

Thanks for that - I see now that the rotor is exporting to STL as 8 objects, not one. NetFabb cloud requires Microsoft login - I've never set one up - and I've just downloaded the NetFabb free version which says it's repaired the problem but still shows an error. Midnight here so I'll sort this out tomorrow. Thanks again for letting me know.

If you make sure that there are no planes or lines inside of the .skp model before you export it, than you shouldn't have any trouble.

If you drop an e-mail to dan dot newman at mtbaldy dot us, I can e-mail you a repaired rotor8 that seems to work for me with Simplify3D and slic3r. Haven't tried it with RepG yet.

The ThomThom Solid Inspector extension can help identify issues, and CleanUp³ can help fix some.

OK - Here you go : https://vimeo.com/105474925.
(And thanks to the editorial team for featuring this ;¬)

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Nice job! I am printing the bottoms out of orange PLA, the blade out of green PLA and the top out of purple ABS. I will use a touch of acetone to adhere the ABS to the PLA. I can print 30 at a time on my printer. I am going to give them out to my kids class for Halloween!

WOW - Mass production, but remember to take your earplugs.
(You may regret it later #;¬)

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