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The Raptor Hand by e-NABLE

by e-NABLE, published

The Raptor Hand by e-NABLE by e-NABLE Sep 29, 2014
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BSD License
The Raptor Hand by e-NABLE by e-NABLE is licensed under the BSD License license.

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Summary

UPDATE, 4/3/2015: Updated finger snap pins (DistalPins2 [x1.stl) for tighter fit. Replaced the gauntlet with new parts, now called "Bracers". Five different shapes of bracer are available (type A-E).


UPDATE, 3/30/2015: Updated distal phalanges to include stronger tie-off bars.


UPDATE, 11/12/2014: Added a PDF Assembly Instruction Manual, courtesy of Mike Agronin of Direct Dimensions. Thanks, Mike!


UPDATE, 11/1/2014 : The elastic tie-off bars have been removed. The elastics now tie-off at the upper rear portion of the palm, right above where the non-flexible cords feed through to the tensioner pins. See photos for details.


We are very pleased to introduce the Raptor Hand by e-NABLE, designed collaboratively by some of e-NABLE’s top designers!
The Raptor Hand is intended to bring together the best and most widely tested ideas from a year of crowd sourced innovation.

The objectives in designing the Raptor Hand were as follows:

  • To simplify fabrication and assembly and repair for makers and recipients alike
  • To provide a platform and reference design for future innovations, incremental and radical
  • To identify a core features set and standardized dimensions embodied in accessible 3D models with progressive licensing terms that will ensure widespread availability and future development.

e-NABLE's prior "go to" designs included the Cyborg Beast, the Talon hand, the Ody hand and the Talon Beast. To these classics, the Raptor Hand by e-NABLE adds the following features:

  • Easier and quicker printing (no supports required)
  • Easier and quicker assembly (no Chicago Screws required, simplified cord installation)
  • An improved tensioning system (modular design, allowing for easier future development)
  • Improved documentation (coming soon)

All of the parts needed for assembly can be found easily in most areas, but if you prefer to get everything in one place, 3D Universe offers kits with all of the assembly materials needed for producing a Raptor Hand: http://shop3duniverse.com/collections/3d-printable-kits/products/raptor-hand-by-e-nable-assembly-materials-kit

For more information on where to connect with people who can help someone in need with sizing, printing and/or assembly a mechanical hand please join the e-NABLE Google+ Community entitled, e-NABLE:
https://plus.google.com/communities/102497715636887179986

For more information and stories:
http://enablingthefuture.org
https://www.facebook.com/enableorganization

Instructions

Printing instructions:

  • Scale all parts as needed (the Raptor Hand is designed to work at scales from 100% through 170%)
  • At 100%, the inside of the palm area measures 55mm
  • Measure across the widest part of the palm, then add 5mm for padding, then divide by 55 to get the scaling factor (for example, if the palm is 65mm wide, then 65 + 5 = 70, and 70 / 55 = 1.27 - so your scaling multiplier would be 1.27 or 127%)
  • Print without supports (palm and gauntlet have some supports built into the model)
  • PLA is recommended
    Suggested settings are 0.2mm layer height, 35% infill, 2 outlines
  • Refer to file names for part descriptions. The number in square brackets at the end of each file name indicates how many copies of that STL file need to be printed for a complete hand assembly.

A video tutorial for the assembly process can be found here: http://youtu.be/5HVwC3RnWXk

Assembling a Raptor Hand requires the following materials:
(4 feet) Velcro, double-sided (2” wide)
(8 feet) Non-flexible nylon cord, 0.9mm
(5 feet) Flexible elastic cord
(5) Tensioner screws
(3) Palm velcro attachment screws with stop nuts
(12 inches) Firm Foam Padding (5 ¾” wide)
(5) Lee Tippi Micro Gel Fingertip Grips (as shown in photo, optional)

All of the parts needed for assembly can be found easily in most areas, but if you prefer to get everything in one place, 3D Universe offers kits with all of the assembly materials needed for producing a Raptor Hand: http://shop3duniverse.com/collections/3d-printable-kits/products/raptor-hand-by-e-nable-assembly-materials-kit

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I would like to request of anyone who has made a hand or is going to make one...
Please list your printer, if you printed the project as one or as individual prints/parts...
Perhaps any settings that you customized for your printer
.
Any extra information about your project will help so many others here trying to do the same.... print a functional hand
Thank you!
:)

What should be the minimum build volume of a 3D Printer to able to print this?

I salute you! Tell me where to take such high-strength tendon cable ?

Search for "1mm Nylon Blind Cord" for a local supplier.

THANK YOU !!!

I finally got the pin situation sorted out! I changed out slicing software but not matter how I try...with supports or without, the finger tips always come out "wavy". Anyone got any ideas?

I am totally in love with this idea and have tried to test print one finger, 5 times. Each time the finger snap pins were too big for the holes and upon forcefully trying to get the snap pins into the holes, the holes cracked. I don't know what I am doing wrong. I am using Cura to slice the stl file and I've slowed the print process down, used a raft (I had some issues with the proximal phalanges curling and popping off in 2 of the tests) even upped the quality to 0.15 layer height. Is there a way to resize the finger snap pins? Or is there an older file that uses Chicago Screws instead? Any and all help is appreciated.

"Help me Obi-wan...you're my only hope."

In the past I reamed the holes. Another technique is to dip the pin in acetone and push it in (it melts its way in) but when it gets in, it's a permanent joint.

Thanks SkyRider, I thought of doing that too but I'm using PLA so I can't do the acetone trick. I suppose I could ream the holes...but I've already tried using some wire cutters to trim off layers of material on the pin to fit, if I ream the holes that much I'm afraid of what the structural integrity of the holes will be.

It makes me wonder, I've seen one or two other people have an issue printing the pins. Is that to say 98% of people don't have a problem?

Thanks for the advice though, I appreciate your advice.

I use a hole reamer that I also use for my plastic models. The other alternative is to use a round mini-file. It shaves off enough without compromising the holes. Failing that, you could also heat a piece of steel bar (if you can find one of suitable size) and push it through the hole. Personally, I never liked the pins and I prefer to use those little metal pins you get from IKEA to hold shelves up. I can hold them with tongs, heat them and push them through the holes. The plastic then cools and contracts around them and it's a press fit. I have also used hollow brass rod on one hand, pushed it into the hole and then just put another smaller rod into the first, and then closed up the joint end. You can do the same with pieces of steel dowel (again, Home Depot). Works like a charm.

Those are GREAT ideas! Thanks for the insight. Sigh...I just wanted it to work, I would love to print the pins and be off to the races. Oh well, off to home depot!

Comments deleted.

That is so cool. Whoever made this thing, keep up the great work.

Where can I find the solidworks part file to make changes to the design for a kid?

Nov 6, 2015 - Modified Nov 6, 2015

Hi I printed the entire Raptor hand but he wrist support broke. All parts at 100 Right single build plate

Which Raptor brace do I print to match the existing parts? I tried one and the other parts would not connect to it, different proportions.

Thank you.

What material is the preferred print material for these hands? I can print both PLA and ABS but prefer to print in ABS...

Sep 26, 2015 - Modified Sep 27, 2015

So of the 5 different bracers, how do we know which one will fit what person? I get the 100% or 120% part, but im not sure I fully understand the differences in the 5 bracers and how they correlate to a persons different fitment.

Nevermind....I just loaded them all and they also correlate to a persons size but lengthwise...no necessarily girth.

I can't seem to find the finger snap pins? Any ideas?

See the file called DistalPins2_[x1.stl

Perfect..
How can we ensure the skin on?

Heya! First off, lemme say how awesome this project is and thanks so much for putting this out there for the world!

I am printing a hand currently and was unable to use the "plate" stl files so I am printing in smaller groups of parts. My question is about the RaptorBracer files...I noticed they get bigger from A to E but I need the 100% scaled version so would I be correct to assume the 100% scaled bracer part is RaptorBracerA2.1.stl???

Thanks much!

All of the bracers are scaled to 100%, actually. The difference is in the shape of the rear part of the bracers. Where the hinges are, they are all the same width at 100% scale.

My mechanical engineer printed two of these (left and right). He had some problems with the scaling. When I attempted to assemble, the finger pins are too large for the holes. I would like to get the STEP files, rather than STL, so he can confirm the components' sizes. Where can I get the STEP files, please?

I have printed 2 hands, neither of them even hold up to the assembly process before breaking at a seam. Any suggestions?

.2 mm
40% infill

It would be great if the gauntlet support were just a smidge wider at the base. Or zigzagged, as someone else suggested below.

Fantastic work. Thanks for putting in the time.

Hi! I assembled the whole hand and I need to apply a lot of force down in the palm for the fingers to close, What should I do to make it less force needed?

Thanks

Your elastics may be over-tensioned. Are you using the elastic tie-offs in the little V-shaped holes? If you tie the elastics near the base of the knuckles, they will be impossibly tight.
It is very important to give the elastics a long-straight run, and to tie them at the minimum tension possible while still providing adequate extension. Over-tensioning is the main problem I see with these assemblies.

Hi - thanks so much for this info - I go to a Techspace meetup gp and they suggested my processor wasn't fast enough for the 34Meg file - I'll try your suggestion,bye Peter

Hi everyone,I love this project but for some reason I can't get the repetier program with slic3r to convert the raptor.stl file into gcode for me - the green line hangs at the point where it says it is transferring the gcode file to the computer but it takes forever and after 1 hour I kill the project.Not sure what to do next - I am using the latest repetier build and slic3r,
Many thanks for any help.
Peter

My guess that because you are using Slic3r, try turning off "Avoid Crossing Perimeters". This in recent versions has increased the slicing time to unacceptable levels.

If you want to "Avoid crossing Perimeters" and super fast slicing speeds and customisable supports try CraftWare from Craftunique.

I'm having a bit of a problem getting the snap pins to fit properly. They are either too small or the holes too big.

Comments deleted.

I've printed 14 of these and find the 'all parts' file fails in the same 2 reoccurring places.
1- the thin support fins in the writs snap from the base because it wiggled side to side. If there was a small perpendicular wall or the fin was zigzagged a little, it would be less likely to wobble sideways and break from the plate.
2- finger snaps off because angle of finger causes curl with no support. it happened a few times. adding support fin would slow things down. I assume a different angel would be bad for the design. I don't have a solution but printers watch out for this.

i know it is all in the printer and settings but wanted to give you BETA feed back to help- not complain

BTW- I will post finger caps I designed and printed in Ninja Flex. So the finger tips have a rubber like tip for grip.

I agree about the gauntlet support falling over. And is a common failure according to others in the google+ group.

Would love to see your finger caps in Ninja Flex. I have some TPU87 from toybuilderlabs I would like to try for the same thing.

e-nable Raptor finger grip tip.
by Tregzy
Nov 9, 2014 - Modified Nov 9, 2014

I'm new to using 3D printers and am attempting my second build of the raptor.
The first failed due to the glass moving and a leveling issue I think.
I'm using a flashforge creator pro with PLA (ABS last time) and scaled to 100% with acceleration on
platform temp of 90
extruder temp of 190
( the settings were different for last run)
I am curious what to build time is for the all parts build should be. The estimate done by the replicator G software is 22 hours.
does this sound about right? or is it better to do the parts in separate groupings?

thanks
Herb

Build time will depend on the scale and speed settings, but at 100% scale, 22 hours is about twice what it would normally take. Replicator G may just be giving an incorrect estimate.

90C is pretty high for your heated bed when using PLA. I'd use 45C instead to avoid warping issues.

I do print all of the parts at once, but you can separate them and print them separately if you prefer. It's all a matter of how well calibrated your machine is. If you're confident that a long print won't fail, printing all the parts together is easier. If you want to be safer about it, print parts individually or in small groups.

Hi, the new Palm's dont have a tie off point for the elastic, how do we tie it off in this version? pictures would be appreciated

The elastic tie-off bars have been removed. The elastics now tie-off at the upper rear portion of the palm, right above where the non-flexible cords feed through to the tensioner pins. See photos for details.

Could you explain how to tie the elastics o the upper rear portion of the palm?
Please post pictures or a video, I just can't do it.

Thank you very much!!!

Hi, Just letting you know that I was looking for a quick way to print all the snap pins for the hand at once and didn't see one so I made a file that has 5 snap pins to share for anyone else who may want to do the same.

Hi, the new Palm's dont have a tie off point for the elastic, how do we tie it off in this version? pictures would be appreciated

The elastic tie-off bars have been removed. The elastics now tie-off at the upper rear portion of the palm, right above where the non-flexible cords feed through to the tensioner pins. See photos for details.

Thanks for the reply! i was wondering about those extra holes!

Is this can be print in replicator ???

Can you use ABS? My printer only prints in ABS...

Yes, you should be able to use ABS, but the models were optimized for PLA, so there may be some differences in the tolerances.

Thanks for the info. I am printing my first attempt now.

This may sound lazy, but can you share the file you used in the video (with all the pieces on one plate)? Thanks!

Sure - just uploaded them! One is for a left hand and one is for a right hand. File names start with "All parts at 100". You can scale the entire build plate up to your target size just as you would individual STL's.

FYI... a tip from the 3D Printing Today Show guys: if you put the glass plate in the freezer for a couple of minutes, the prints will pop right off without the need for prying or thwacking.?

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