Mini-Minion - the 3D printer for easy classroom production.
by CaptnBlynd, published
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The carriage bars are the same as on the wallace (based on printRbot?) since they use the wallace parts. The bed rails are exactly the same as on a prusa but look closer since I made the bed wider to make it easy to access the adjustment screws after the hotbed is installed. I think that I would be likely to add stabilizers to the top of the z axis if I used this myself much. It is a standard wallace/printRbot set-up but There simply must be more "wobble" than on a Prusa or makerbot style. Everything else seems solid. Haven't really put it to hard and fast use so can't really say for certain. I use it mainly as a teaching tool and demo machine. Mostly default settings from slic3r with adjustments for things like extruder speed with the 47/9 gear ratio.
With those X-axis smooth bars so close together, how stable is your x-axis? Any wobble at all? Even when going fast? Speaking of wobble, have you found any problem with the naked top of the Y axis?
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The end rods are exactly the same as on a Prusa. The same nut bolt pattern and bearings. In fact, all of the rail system printed parts are from the Prusa depository on Github. I am using standard split cable cover from the hardware store. That is what the â€œslinky holdersâ€ are for. This is optional and frankly not entirely satisfactory.. The file labeled â€œmini-minion.stlâ€ is a label for the printer. Also optional. The â€œsupport-extruderâ€ is optional but it is likely you will need it with any j type hot end.
The reason this is a work in progress is because I need to give more complete assembly instructions BUT if you read the Wallace assembly I have credited as derived from and the Prusa instructions at the RepRap wikipedia site then you should have no real issues assembling this printer just from these notes. More detailed instructions and pictures to follow. The download includes all files and some helpful things like a bed drilling guide.
Guidler is the extruder 1 set for the size of your filiment
608adaptors (optional) 1
bushing-linear (optional) 11
x-end left 1
x-end right 1
Xlpulley (optional) 2
Threaded rod, 5/16" or 8mm x 14 1/2" 4 (2 z axis, 2 cross bars)
Threaded rod, 5/16 or 8mm x 16 " 1 (Top bar)
Smooth rod, 5/16" or 8mm x 18" 4 (2 z axis, 2 Y axis table rails)
Smooth rod, 5/16" or 8mm x 16 3/4" 2 (x carriage)
// by making the table wider than a standard heat plate we are able to place the leveling screws for easy access. I do not use the included bed drilling guide. I will provide one as I complete this.
Lower print table 10 1/2" x 6" 1
Upper print table 10 1/2" x 9" 1
*** nuts and bolts**** a lot
608 bearings 6 (5 if you use an option on the x carriage)
lmu88 linear bearings 11 ( or print bushings)
NEMA17 stepper motors 5
Control board- printRboard-Gen6(or 7)- RAMPS 1 ( I own all 3. I prefer Ramps. Just me.)
end stops 3 ( I like the simple mechanical ones to start)
thermistor, 100k 2
hot end - j type designed 1 (other hot ends may mount. A standard j type WILL)
Heat plate 1
****wires and connectors*** I'll start counting
12v 30 amp power supply 1
Hobbed bolt 1
springs 6 (4 for table, 2 for extruder)
T2 pulleys 2 (if you use T2 belt, or print XL pulleys for XL belt)
Sheet glass, 8 1/2" x 8 1/2" with corners cut off 1 or more (people say to use tempered)
Binding clips for glass 4 (see photos)
Sheet cork gasket 8 1/2" x 8 1/2" 1 ( I use 2 layers. For under hotbed.)
If you don't get filiment then you won't be able to print!
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