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Mini ish Cryptex (improved design)

by xochal, published

Mini ish Cryptex (improved design) by xochal Feb 9, 2013

Description

I redesigned the model which this was derived from including a much improved locking ring, a D shaft for the center piece, one piece end caps and reduced ability to pick. also it is scaled up about 120% because of the compete redesign the parts are not interchangeable with the original.
I have only printed in PLA if you print in ABS please report how well the lock ring works.

Recent Comments

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Do you know how many cubic cm's it takes to build v2 of this project? I'm thinking about having a third part build some of these as gifts, but I need to get an idea of the cost. Also, is 0.200mm layer thickiness good enough, or would it needed to be printed on a machine with finer layer thickiness.

No worries Glad it is working for you guys!!!!

Printed it with PLA, scaled 112%. Works like a charm, no need to file or sand anything. I added a 1mm shim. Thank you for this design !

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Instructions

Print 5 letter rings of your choice (they only have half the alphabet)
5 spacers
5 ring 2's
one inner tube
one support tube
one locking ring
and as many shims as you need. ( i printed the whole set and only used 2)
one "pins"

Program by aligning the notch in ring 2 with your selected letter.
to

don't glue the pins on the inner tube until you have every thing assembled so you can find the best alignment.

once printed i sand the sides of the ring 2, spacer rings and letter rings (ring 1s) to make it operate smoother.

depending on how much you shim and how much you sand you may need to file the teeth of the pin to get everything to line up right. i had to on the orginal design but this one i did not.
you can use a sharpy to color in the letters, then hit them with some white glue then color again for good sharp letters.

Comments

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TAZ427 on Feb 5, 2014 said:

Do you know how many cubic cm's it takes to build v2 of this project? I'm thinking about having a third part build some of these as gifts, but I need to get an idea of the cost. Also, is 0.200mm layer thickiness good enough, or would it needed to be printed on a machine with finer layer thickiness.

xochal on Mar 25, 2013 said:

No worries Glad it is working for you guys!!!!

uski on Mar 24, 2013 said:

Printed it with PLA, scaled 112%. Works like a charm, no need to file or sand anything. I added a 1mm shim. Thank you for this design !

TimEdwards on Mar 17, 2013 said:

I have confirmed that all my problems were due to the slic3r calibration. . . it appears that everybody who owns a MakerGear M2 ends up needing an extruder multiplier of 0.867, suggesting a likely miscalibration in the M2's firmware. With the slic3r fix, all parts fit together as advertised!

TimEdwards on Mar 13, 2013 said:

Thanks for the tip. . . I'll have to remember that one for future use. As for the sizing, I'm pretty sure it's a slic3r issue but I will need to do some testing to figure out if it is as simple as changing the nozzle diameter setting. The dimensional errors seem to be too large, larger than the nozzle diameter itself. All the rings stacked together came out something like 4 to 5 mm longer than fits comfortably on the outer tube, which means an error in the Z dimension of approximately 0.5mm per piece. This is far too much error for the pins to fit in either direction, so I had to cut them back. Fortunately, the whole design is quite robust and so I was able to get it working smoothly in the end. A lot of grinding and sanding, but it's a real working cryptex!

By the way, you need to watch your auto-correct, or you may end up with anti-Semitic pins (instead of asymmetric)!

xochal on Mar 13, 2013 said:

You have to hit it with white glue (PVA) glue before shapie to prevent the bleeding. As far as size count be nozzle size too slic3r is crazy like that. I printed using a well calibrated Mendel max with a 0.5 nozzle and default extrusion widths if I remember right the pins are not Semitic you have to put in on both ways and find the best fit.

TimEdwards on Mar 12, 2013 said:

I printed in PLA but also had to do a lot of "sanding and dremel work" before it would fit together without binding. I'm wondering if this indicates that I need serious adjustments to my slicer settings. Or perhaps it's that not all slicers are created equal. I used slic3r with reasonably sane settings, and everything comes out much too tight. Not only did I not need shims, but I had to cut the hole for the lock ring wider by about 2mm. I could not get a Sharpie to work well so I painted the letters in with gloss black enamel paint using a toothpick. The paint (and the marker, for that matter) bleeds into the plastic, but it's "good enough for government work", as the saying goes.

MacGyver on Feb 16, 2013 said:

I printed mine in ABS and it took some considerable sanding and dremel work but it slides pretty well now.

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