Lubricator for Ultimaker

by JPH, published

Lubricator for Ultimaker by JPH Feb 9, 2013
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this is an upgrade for the ultimaker to speed up your prints.

you might freak out of this idea but it helped me alot
I went from 100mm/s to 225mm/s (for simple objects)
and I went from 80mm/s to 150mm/s (for complex objects)

I spray oil in the bowden tube of my Ultimaker...... yes I do.

The Ultimaker is very fast because of the light weight on the hotend (as you know) But this comes with a down side, because at high speed the frixion in the bowden tube becomes bigger and this leads to filemant grinding.

To get the frixion away you need oil in the bowden tube but NOT on the extruder gear.

the oil did not seem to affect the print itself

-Small objects won't work at these speeds because the Ultimaker can't cool it that much yet


I am going to make a Snap-on version of this!!!

Please read all of the instructions before doing anything


difficulty print ***
Print support material: Yes

The things you need: 4x M3*10 screws
High Temperature resistant thin oil

The oil I used whas for my airgun: PTFE-/Keramik Coat.
Temperature resistant around -40C to +750C
but you can try different brands.

Make a small hole in the top of the bowden tube. But be gentle. you don't want the filament to get stuck when you push it through. A small hole is good!!! look at the picture to see what I meen.

than on top of that you screw the Lubricator on.

Only spray while you're printing!!!
one spay should do.

and your done.

Don't forget to make the temperature higher.
I'm printing PLA 150mm/s at a temperature of 240C!!!

One last tip..... don't listen to the screaming noise of your extruder ad higher speeds :D

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Great !
Can you post the 2 parts in 2 different files please ?

Here you go.

I did print it on its side because of the curve in the bowden tube side.
but you will see that.

Thx !

doesnt the oil change the structure of the Plastic used.. by making the plastics softer or more brittle?
where does the oil go? if it evaporates in the hotend we should worry about fumes.
can we do that with PLA and ABS?
because i found that PLA is oil repellent when triing to coat it...

removing the curve in the bowdentube helps to get rid of some friction... you could hang the extruder above the printer.

JPH - in reply to yzorg

It is not really the frixion but it's hard to explain.
the extruder feeds so fast that the filament bends inside the tube.
it's not a lot but at these speeds it works just a little bit different I think.

Ok I did a test to see where the oil goes.
I did that bij adding too much oil. (spayed 3 times)
And it did NOT evaporate, it sticks on the object.
Looks more shine and it brings the color up, actually pretty nice. :D
Also tried to wash it off but that didn't do it.

The object didn't get softer ore brittle it stays just the same.
(Really I can't believe it, it can't go better than this.)

I Have never testet ABS before so I don't know what it does to that.

So, Keramiek coat still seems to work good in all ways.
The text on the can says it works for metal and plastic.

What i need to tell you (and i will put it in the description) is that you can't make small objects at these speeds.
because the Ultimaker can't cool it that fast.

hey - at what layer height do you get your respectable 225mm/s ? There is discussion on your idea here https://groups.google.com/d/msg/ultimaker/rKJqm3ziu0w/KG1rBZSrhEUJhttps://groups.google.com/d/ms...

The layer height I used whas 0.2. but I tried 0.3 but that went catastrophic :D
Also used the normal 0.4 nozzle.

And what they say about the frixion might be right.
It's more about the bending of the plastic inside the tube that might cause it to jam.
the extruder feeds the plastic so fast inside the tube that the plastic can't get away

I've also tried something like that, and yes there is a big difference.

I think that the tube is a design flaw made ​​by the Ultimeker team.

I completely agree. I've been using my original (non plus) ultimaker for years and 90% of my problems have been bowden related and the other 10% due to the short belts. Direct drive of the X and Y axis and removal of the bowden tube are my two next upgrades. I've done the dual extruders, heated bed, and the really old upgrade of the knurled bolt and tensioned bearing extruder. A quick swap nozzle system seems like a good idea too. Far easier to clear blockages when you don't have to disassemble the whole hot end. God that's a pain.

you remove the Bowden tube but what do you do then? change of header? you have any examples? Thank you