Customizable Cube Gears
Description
This cube gear has different numbers of teeth than my original, which means you have to turn it more to get back to a cube. The customizer also has the original gearing as an option, as well as one with fewer teeth (good for making it small).
I also put in the ability to put words on the faces of the large gears. This way you can make a personal gift, or maybe a silly game where different word pairs come together as you turn the cube. I'd like to see what you come up with.
Instructions
When you open customizer, you're given a choice of what part to render, in case all you need is a new pin or a large gear with words on it. If you want to make an all new cube gear, just make an stl of each of the four parts. The assembly is just there so you can see how it will look; there's no point in exporting it.
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I tried to print one of these from the provided STL files. When printed, the pin holes in the center piece did not appear to have the same depth. Four of the holes had a depth of approximately 9mm. The four on the opposite side of those holes had a depth of approximately 11mm. I'm curious if anyone else had the same issue. I'm still pretty new to printing, but it seems like the pins being slightly off-center would be an easy mistake to make. I was planning to dig into the SCAD file to take a look, but I wanted to get some confirmation before I did. There's a lot of math in there. Has anyone else noticed this problem?
It's not an error. In fact, this way the pins are all equidistant from the center; the trick is that the faces are not all the same distance from the center (hence the shape being not quite a normal octahedron). Likewise, the two types of gears are correspondingly different sizes.
Hi Can anyone help, i am having trouble trying to get the pins to print... slicer only recognises 4 layers and thats it.. the rest of the items printed pretty well accurate
Hi i cant get the pins to slice correctly can you help? the rest printed ok
I found that the best fitting pins when printing with ABS, .25mm layer height, and a .35mm nozzle were using the 0.3 tolerance and the fatter pin style.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
Once I did that it assembled nicely and stayed together during rotations!
Made One!
Printed in PLA with bed at room temperature, and 220 C. .27 mm 2.75 hours
Had to sand the pins down a little in order to get them in without forcing too hard.
IMPORTANT NOTE!!!
Before assembly take a graphite pencil and cover all the internals with it, Your cube will spin effortlessly.
Printed at .5 on my Up! Mini. Came out nicely, though the pins won't get deep enough into the base somehow. They are sticking out too far, and it doesn't work as it's supposed to. Looking inside the base there is no raft or anything, so i'm not sure why it didn't work. Will try raftless this evening to see if it works this way.
Nice cubes been displayed, mine is coming.............Printing at .1 , each small gear so far works out to 1hr 10 mins to print , the pins took 7 mins each , the the base 2hrs , just got the big gears to go and i'll upload a pic of my green and yellow cube. Using very good quality PLA
Hey Emmett - sorry, I managed to screw up your monogram - was trying to shift it and didn't notice until I started printing! I'll have to have the wifey do a custom painted one for ya!
Also quick question on PinV3 - when I generate the STL from OpenScad with object set to 3, I'm getting a horizontal bar across the middle of the pin. I've not dug into the library, but I noticed the STL's you uploaded didn't have them? I think this is "side"?
thanks for such a great model , im trying to print it at .1 in green and yellow PLA
If you use an external fan the PLA cools better and turns solid faster. This way it won't curl up because of the heat of the nozzle and the model will look better.
When I try and print the gears (in PLA) on my Printrbot + the very tip of the gear teeth always curl upwards layer by layer until the print is totally ruined. Any advice?
Try dropping your extrusion temp a bit, bed as well if you are heating, and use loads of cooling. You can also tweet height over width, but that's a bit more iffy unless you've played with it before. I just printed this in PLA, and had not problems with curling using the above.
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I'm having trouble with the pins too. They printed fine along with everything else on the plate, but they seem too long. How much of a gap is there expected to be between the gears and the center? I get a several mm gap and things don't feel tight.
Yeah, actually I noticed that too and just chalked it up to a printing error. Sounds now like it's more likely a math error. I'll look into it...