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Printrbot XL Mod

by Datenkrieger, published

Printrbot XL Mod by Datenkrieger Feb 16, 2013

Description

I replaced all of the rods of my original printrbot with 50cm rods and replaced the T5 belts with longer GT2 belts and pulleys.
Plus some changed details.
New build platform is now over 30 x 30 cm, and still printing nice. I have not testet all the limits yet, must add some feet to the base or it will tip over with big prints.
UPDATE 26.03.2013
Experiences so far: It's louder than before, can't leave it printing during the night or my neighbours will kill me... it's building up more vibrations, also sortof a y-wobble. Most of this is probably because of lm8uu bearings with missing balls but the whole construction needs to be stiffened. If I had more space I would build a massive wooden frame around it.
UPDATE 24.04.2013
Replaced the Base with Japica 608 Base, runs much smoother now

Recent Comments

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thanks a lot :-)
I now have a 8x12 bed and about 15 z axis built capacity
I just have a problem with my really powering the heat bed clicking all the time any idea how to modify the firmware to get the printrboard to just send on or off command to the relay ?

regards
ok i had a look at the sources and you need to change the values in configuration.h, scroll down until you see "software endstops"
oh and use the arduino environment for printrboard that you can download at printrbot.com. It is already configured for the printrboard and you can just unzip and start it, no need to install. If you have an old printrboard and can't upload with the IDE, you need to get the compiled file from the temp dir and upload it with Atmel FLIP.

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Instructions

Nice detail: with this size, a 1m belt loop fits perfectly on the X carriage without having to cut it. The Y belt is now in the middle of the build platform like http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28423 For less Z-wobble I used the base pieces with Z motor support from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28557. Not used a Z - top joiner thing yet but it works fine without. After adding some feet it will be more stable, but smaller prints turned out good. Only headache causing are the lm8uu bearings, I lost some BBs when changing the smooth rods. I will definitely try out the Japica 608 bearing thing at some point.

UPDATE Warning, Printrboard firmware has software endstops in it, I can't use the whole build surface until i manage to flash a firmware that has it fixed.

UPDATE fixed the firmware, was a bit tricky because of dfu bootloader (REV.B Board), but could compile it with the printrboard - arduino environment that can be downloaded at printrbot.com support. Then uploaded it with Atmel FLIP. It wouldn't work at first because i used the wrong sources. Be sure to use the official printrboard sources from https://github.com/PxT/Marlin/tree/master/Marlin

Added the Z-Rod double stabiliser http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:36022

oops didn't see that post, you will need an extra stepper driver and modivications to the firmware. There is at least one extra IO pin that you can use but I can't tell you how to do it exactly. There is a tutorial on the web how to add an extra motor for a 2nd extruder, and what changes are needed to the firmware. this could help you, google it.
Hi there any chance you could do a step by step video or list on how to upgrade from
Hi Protom
I see my description is a bit chaotic as i added the upgrades one by one.
Basically I just replaced the rods wth longer ones, moved the y-Belt to the middle and used the Japica base pieces. Rest is optional.

So you print the Japica bases and the y motor mount for the middle (PB alternate y axis) as long as your PB is in it's original functional state, then get longer rods and a bigger build platform and start taking it apart and back together. You will have to deal with some small details like y endstop switch not fitting to the japica bases, must lengthen all cables etc. And there are the software endstops in the firmware to be removed.

But you have been warned, bigger build platform means more mass to move and it's getting wobblier with the longer rods. Also if you print towards the ends of the y axis there is some lever force on the y bearings which makes it tip a bit in y direction. the japica bases help but I think a prusa style y axis would be a cleverer solution.

I still have no heat bed installed, I just print PLA on glass and hairspray. But it's good to see there is a oversize heatbed on Ebay, I think about ordering one, I still have a big roll of ABS that i can't use otherways.
Maybe ask the manufacturer about how much current these take, if the printrboard can handle it, it might take long to heat up.
Just got all the parts
Just need to change the firmware limitations
How did you do it ?
Is there's a modified firmware you have I could use ?
Or a simple guide on how to modify that

Regards
ok i had a look at the sources and you need to change the values in configuration.h, scroll down until you see "software endstops"
oh and use the arduino environment for printrboard that you can download at printrbot.com. It is already configured for the printrboard and you can just unzip and start it, no need to install. If you have an old printrboard and can't upload with the IDE, you need to get the compiled file from the temp dir and upload it with Atmel FLIP.
In the instructions i have posted the link to the original source files
for the printrbot. Have a look at the code, it has lots of comments in
it, you will find the parameters, just change the values. It is in one of the main files, can't tell you which one exactly, it's too long ago since i did this.
thanks a lot :-)
I now have a 8x12 bed and about 15 z axis built capacity
I just have a problem with my really powering the heat bed clicking all the time any idea how to modify the firmware to get the printrboard to just send on or off command to the relay ?

regards
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