Micro Polyhedron Vertices
Description
I noticed people were scaling down things thingiverse.com/thing:4893 and thingiverse.com/thing:4934, and I wanted to see how fine I could go. I modified the snap to be satisfyingly strong, but use less plastic, so this piece is not simply a scaled down version of either of the above things, and has a modified snap design.
Instructions
The great thing is you can print 12 (16?) at a time on the MakerBot, so it won't take weeks to print up enough pieces for complex forms.
print. clean.
see thingiverse.com/thing:4893 and thingiverse.com/thing:4934 for more details.
Look up Archemedean polyheda designs on Wikipedia or Mathworld, or just play and see what you can make. Sorry, just triangles for now.
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Haven't gotten a Maker bot yet, but:
It seems like you could put two prongs on each leg -- but offset a little to one side. That would make each part the same (and you wouldn't have two print two different kinds). May make it more flexible.
Or I could be completely wrong ;) Seems to work in my head, tho...
--t
I made on and scaled ti to .85 and it worked. I think .75 will work too!
I went smaller still with your other http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... Snap-together polyhedron verticies.
The one with gerbil was 1/2 scaled. I made on my UP that was 1/4 scaled - but it was very delicate - sometimes the pieces broke during assembly. Right now at work I have the 1/4 scaled buckey ball hanging inside of a 1/2 scaled buckeye ball, hanging inside of the 1:1 scaled buckeye ball using thos
e parts.
yeah, I was trying to duplicate your scaling. Unfortunately, I could not get the pieces to assemble well. I think I ran into two limitations : the nozzle diameter size, and the ability of maker-bot to stop and start accurately enough for short strings. I know the UP! printer uses a stepper extruder, which would give it better control over starting and stopping. Does it also have a smaller extrusion nozzle ?
License
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Made a icosahedron using these at the default size, however, the "plongs" where way to large (Ultimaker prints them better I guess, or PLA is to rigid for the snap fit). The SCAD file seems way to complex for what it needs, so I redid the SCAD from scratch.
My cat loves it, but then again, he loves everything I print.
The "plongs" shrink a bit when printing with ABS on the makerbot, and ABS is also much more elastic, so optimizing for its mechanical properties creates a design that doesn't generalize to PLA. you should post your PLA redesign, maybe as a derivative. I'd like to see the simplified SCAD script.