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Rostock Mini Modifications

by Luke321, published

Rostock Mini Modifications by Luke321 Feb 17, 2013

Description

Modifications:

Makergear Filament Drive adapted for bowden extrusion with pneufits: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:63674 (Custom fan ducts for cooling hot end and printed material) this was a dead end now the fans are mounted conventioanlly Different Carriage modified for Traxxas 5347 u-joints Derived from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30611 Delta-platfrom modifiered for Traxxas 5347 u-joints Idler ends and ball bearings from original Rostock Megatronics 1.0 Board with added rostock kinematics Heated print bed from qu-bd using the great Airtripper's Pocket Filament Reel Rollers: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21435 and the great Wing addition to the M3 nut by Proksis: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19812 and for my power supply: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40377 summetj great fan duct for cooling the nozzle and the part: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:56865

There is a Video of the printing Mini (Rostock mini 3D printer printing Twisted Kochflake Vase): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYT68bvQm9M

Short time lapse: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-dBnb2OHR4M

Recent Comments

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laser cut parts are from the original rostock mini, bom is under things in excel format!
Hi could you share the bom please, and. the laser cut parts. I die for make me one :D
Hi could you share the bom please, and. the laser cut parts. I die for make me one :D

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Instructions

After calibrating the three towers the nozzle was to high in the center. I measured the DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET and changed it from 22 to of 21.5 mm in the configuration.h of my firmware. If your noozle is to deep in the center make this value larger. This is necessary because the theoretical values in the firmware didn't match up with the actual printer and so the inverse kinematic didn't work correctly.

It is importand to fix the endstop-trigger M3 screws with glue. Bowden extrusion needs patient fine tuning. Also fix the Bowden Gear, it got loose and so retraction was completely useless resulting in very ugly prints.

I had a crash with the original fan design so I uploaded a new mount.

My BOM ist uploaded

I am now using a J-Head MKV extruder and getting much better results with it, seems like the heating chamber in the makergear extruder is to big for bowden extrusion. The J-Head reduces ooze and has no curling at all. Use the Repetier Firmware, it has a native support for rostock printers, set the acceleration to 1500 for all axes, and jerk to 15mm/s to prevent lost steps. Set the start and end speed for the extruder to 100mm/s. I also strongly recommend the use of Repetier-Host + Skeinforge for slicing, the dwindle feature works wonders fighting ooze.

I uploaded my basic skeinforge settings just copy the folder under C:\users\yourusername\, temperature must be controlled manuelly, same goes for cooling fans.

I also recommend using a mixture of 3 parts water and 1 part wood glue on the glas for much better adhesion of the first layer, it can be easily removed with a sponge and warm water.

Hi could you share the bom please, and. the laser cut parts. I die for make me one :D
laser cut parts are from the original rostock mini, bom is under things in excel format!
Hi could you share the bom please, and. the laser cut parts. I die for make me one :D
Another question of interest for some others. How about the diagonal carbon rod length.
Is it the same as in the original Rostock Mini ? Can I use the output of the rostock's scad-file ? Do the Traxxas ball joints have the same length as the printed ?
I think it is, it's 180mm if I remember correctly...
THe most important thing is to make them all exactly the same length, the rest you can configure in the config.
How would you join the timing belts if you would use open belts. I couldn't find any closed belts with given length.
I cut a 990mm long piece of the belt and wanted to join them 'somehow' on the carriage but this all seams rather approximately.
I googled for instructions or ideas to join open belts but couldn't find anyhing.
I think I saw some carriages on thingiverse for open belts, search for rostock carriage!
Thanks found it !
If I am going to use 500mm rods and want to use a 210,210 build bed, how do I get the custom diagonal rod length and the model of the frame for the bigger print bed ?
Can I just use the original Rostock Mini.stl and get the diagonal rod length from that ???
And how do I get the dxf of the frame. OpenSCAD says there is no top level geometry.
please check with the original rostock mini comments how to configure the frame, I didn't change anything about that. if you size up the printbed you will need longer diagonal rods and loose a lot of build height... so when using 500 mm rods it could be that you only have about 100-140mm of effective build height! sorry that I can't help you more!
I have some 44N.cm Nema 17 (4.4 kg.cm) steppers here laying around. Are they sufficiant as the BOM states 4.7kg.cm and more ? I thought I might get away with mine and could save some money.
Yes I think so, the steppers don't need a lot of tourque to move the platform around!
Nice ! Thanks.
Another question about the Nylon spacers. Is there something that speaks against printing 3mm spacers ? I don't know where to get cheap Nylon spacers were the shipping does not exceed the product itself.
Nevermind the spacers.
I found for myself another method. I took an M3 nut and a M4 nut which together have are 5.5mm long. I put one left and one right of the traxxas metal plug and the just fit perfect.
What "Thing" did you use as the latch for the HPB
So I ask (and Im sure its been asked before). This IS a RoStock... the only changes are the upper lower plates and the towers.. I mean the plastics for the rostock are the same aside of the ball joint carriages or are they scaled down?
Your printer looks great.
As a result i'm in the process of building one.

I have some problems with the traxas joint connection though.
Could you post a photo that shows the joints, washers, spaces, ...?
Now using summetj's great fan duct for cooling the nozzle and the part at once!

thingiverse.com/thing:56865
Rostock Mini Fan Duct
by summetj
uploaded the filament drive: thingiverse.com/thing:63674
Makergear Filament drive goes Bowden
by Luke321
now using another cooling fan mount:

thingiverse.com/thing:28412
4cm Fan Mount for Rostock
Some updates on the instructions, now printing very good with a J-Head MKIV, without changing the extruder mount or the cooling fan mount.
I like how you have continued the great work on this good looking machine.

I also like your NXT DELTA Mill.

I asked in the thread of bwevans if it would be possible to use the Rostock Mini as both printer and mill, but the only reply I got was relating to milling steel.
I am looking into sand casting and need to make my patterns in either hard plastic or in foam. That is why I think a machine like this this would be my best choice.
Since you have all ready worked with both, what is your view on this?
hard plastic could be a problem because the robot can't accept very much force from the drill.

but it should be possible with foam, you can propably even use pycam to generate the toolpath and use your standard 3d printer firmware.

since I did it with LEGO and a 1200rpm LEGO motor you should be able to mill foam when using a 15000 rpm dremel or somthing similar.
Thank you for your reply.

For the hard plastic part I was planning on using the printer as a printer, sorry if I didn't make that clear.

My only experience with CNC is a hot wire foam cutter, so I have no knowledge of Sanguinololu or any other rep rap related items beside what I have read on the web.

Do you think it will be possible to use the printer electronics and not only the mechanical parts as a mill?
Sure you can fully reuse the printer electronics, use pycam.sourceforge.net/ to generate milling gcode... probably have to experiment a little with speeds but it should run just fine with normal printer firmware!
You say "
(Custom fan ducts for cooling hot end and printed material) this was a dead end". I'm about to go down the same dead end (make a can to mount the fan to that sits above the carriage, and I was wondering if you had any advice for what to avoid or why you decided against it? Thanks, Jay
My problem was that the space between the noozle and the delta platform was to let enough air trough to get a sufficient cooling for the print.
Ahh...gotcha. I'm more trying to cool the upper part of the makergear extruder than the print, but if any extra air makes it to the part that would be a bonus....
Update: I have had enough success using my fan duct to cool printed parts that I'm not going to bother adding a "part cooling" fan. I do have to run it at 100% to get enough cooling effect to print my C9 bulb test part (that requires cooling as it has very very quick layers as it is mostly hollow).
thx for the reply, I will test your fan duct soon :)
I've found that for most prints I can use a fan speed much lower than 100%. And in fact, if I use 100% continuously, my extruder has a hard time keeping it's temp up, so I'd suggest using a much lower percentage (25%?) for continuous running just to cool the top of the extruder, and only bump the speed up when you have a small build layer and are trying to cool the part.
I use 50% all the time and let slic3r control the rest for smaller layers, works great so far, better than the side mounted fans!
I think you could increase air flow if you give the duct the same inner diameter as the hole in the delta platform, but probably not by much.
I had a model with the same inside diameter all the way down, but I decided that I wanted it to use less plastic and have less weight, so I made the walls thin. (I also wanted the outer walls to meet up with the edges of the platform....if you were willing to have it not do that you could have the same weight and plastic usage with a clean connection to the inside diameter.)

I'm using a MakerGear hot end, but the problem may be the resistance in the small gauge wire I ran to it (I only plan on printing PLA, so I used lower gauge wire than I would normally do...) or maybe my fine is just really good ;>
I was using the MakerGear hot end to but had a lot of trouble with oozing and filament sticking to the nozzle. I highly recommend the Jhead MKV :)
I won't change the fan duct it works perfectly!
I think your BOM has a typo. You listed your 40mm cooling fan as costing $244.64. Unless maybe it is a Dyson =P
No typo prices are per supplier and all prices are in €! gonna upload another version :)
I don't understand then, what 40 mm fan costs 244.64 ? On their site they have one for around 2.50.
the 244.64€ are for everything from ReprapWorld, I simply wrote the sume per supplier to the last item of the supplier!
AH : face palm : per supplier, got it.
Fantastic! Great work!
Luke321 - in reply to
It was only possible because of your excellent book and because I had your Rostock mini to start with!
Well thanks! I like your changes... now if I could create an alternate universe where I had time to try them out...
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