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Rostock Mini Modifications

by Luke321, published

Rostock Mini Modifications by Luke321 Feb 17, 2013

Description

Modifications:

Makergear Filament Drive adapted for bowden extrusion with pneufits: thingiverse.com/thing:63674
(Custom fan ducts for cooling hot end and printed material) this was a dead end
now the fans are mounted conventioanlly
Different Carriage modified for Traxxas 5347 u-joints
Derived from thingiverse.com/thing:30611
Delta-platfrom modifiered for Traxxas 5347 u-joints
Idler ends and ball bearings from original Rostock
Megatronics 1.0 Board with added rostock kinematics
Heated print bed from qu-bd
using the great Airtripper's Pocket Filament Reel Rollers: thingiverse.com/thing:21435
and the great Wing addition to the M3 nut by Proksis: thingiverse.com/thing:19812
and for my power supply: thingiverse.com/thing:40377
summetj great fan duct for cooling the nozzle and the part: thingiverse.com/thing:56865

There is a Video of the printing Mini (Rostock mini 3D printer printing Twisted Kochflake Vase): youtube.com/watch?v=YYT68bvQm9M

Short time lapse:
youtube.com/watch?v=-dBnb2OHR4M

Recent Comments

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What "Thing" did you use as the latch for the HPB

So I ask (and Im sure its been asked before). This IS a RoStock... the only changes are the upper lower plates and the towers.. I mean the plastics for the rostock are the same aside of the ball joint carriages or are they scaled down?

Your printer looks great.
As a result i'm in the process of building one.

I have some problems with the traxas joint connection though.
Could you post a photo that shows the joints, washers, spaces, ...?

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Instructions

After calibrating the three towers the nozzle was to high in the center. I measured the DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET and changed it from 22 to of 21.5 mm in the configuration.h of my firmware. If your noozle is to deep in the center make this value larger. This is necessary because the theoretical values in the firmware didn't match up with the actual printer and so the inverse kinematic didn't work correctly.

It is importand to fix the endstop-trigger M3 screws with glue. Bowden extrusion needs patient fine tuning. Also fix the Bowden Gear, it got loose and so retraction was completely useless resulting in very ugly prints.

I had a crash with the original fan design so I uploaded a new mount.

My BOM ist uploaded

I am now using a J-Head MKV extruder and getting much better results with it, seems like the heating chamber in the makergear extruder is to big for bowden extrusion.
The J-Head reduces ooze and has no curling at all.
Use the Repetier Firmware, it has a native support for rostock printers, set the acceleration to 1500 for all axes, and jerk to 15mm/s to prevent lost steps.
Set the start and end speed for the extruder to 100mm/s.
I also strongly recommend the use of Repetier-Host + Skeinforge for slicing, the dwindle feature works wonders fighting ooze.

I uploaded my basic skeinforge settings just copy the folder under C:usersyourusername, temperature must be controlled manuelly, same goes for cooling fans.

I also recommend using a mixture of 3 parts water and 1 part wood glue on the glas for much better adhesion of the first layer, it can be easily removed with a sponge and warm water.

Comments

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AnchorageMakerSpace on Sep 5, 2013 said:

What "Thing" did you use as the latch for the HPB

HarshReality on Aug 23, 2013 said:

So I ask (and Im sure its been asked before). This IS a RoStock... the only changes are the upper lower plates and the towers.. I mean the plastics for the rostock are the same aside of the ball joint carriages or are they scaled down?

BramK on Jul 20, 2013 said:

Your printer looks great.
As a result i'm in the process of building one.

I have some problems with the traxas joint connection though.
Could you post a photo that shows the joints, washers, spaces, ...?

Luke321 on Mar 30, 2013 said:

Now using summetj's great fan duct for cooling the nozzle and the part at once!

http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Luke321 on Mar 20, 2013 said:

uploaded the filament drive: http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Luke321 on Mar 17, 2013 said:

now using another cooling fan mount:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Luke321 on Mar 16, 2013 said:

Some updates on the instructions, now printing very good with a J-Head MKIV, without changing the extruder mount or the cooling fan mount.

JKryth on Mar 12, 2013 said:

I like how you have continued the great work on this good looking machine.

I also like your NXT DELTA Mill.

I asked in the thread of bwevans if it would be possible to use the Rostock Mini as both printer and mill, but the only reply I got was relating to milling steel.
I am looking into sand casting and need to make my patterns in either hard plastic or in foam. That is why I think a machine like this this would be my best choice.
Since you have all ready worked with both, what is your view on this?

Luke321 on Mar 12, 2013 said:

hard plastic could be a problem because the robot can't accept very much force from the drill.

but it should be possible with foam, you can propably even use pycam to generate the toolpath and use your standard 3d printer firmware.

since I did it with LEGO and a 1200rpm LEGO motor you should be able to mill foam when using a 15000 rpm dremel or somthing similar.

summetj on Mar 2, 2013 said:

You say "
(Custom fan ducts for cooling hot end and printed material) this was a dead end". I'm about to go down the same dead end (make a can to mount the fan to that sits above the carriage, and I was wondering if you had any advice for what to avoid or why you decided against it? Thanks, Jay

Luke321 on Mar 2, 2013 said:

My problem was that the space between the noozle and the delta platform was to let enough air trough to get a sufficient cooling for the print.

tencent on Feb 19, 2013 said:

I think your BOM has a typo. You listed your 40mm cooling fan as costing $244.64. Unless maybe it is a Dyson =P

Luke321 on Feb 19, 2013 said:

No typo prices are per supplier and all prices are in €! gonna upload another version :)

Anonymous on Feb 17, 2013 said:

Fantastic! Great work!

Luke321 on Feb 17, 2013 said:

It was only possible because of your excellent book and because I had your Rostock mini to start with!

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