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Figurine Bust

by Kaetemi, published

Figurine Bust by Kaetemi Dec 16, 2010

Featured Thing!

Description

This is a bust version of the figurine that's available from here shapeways.com/model/164604/ (this link has more pretty pictures too). You can also get this version at shapeways.com/model/191205/.
It's about 9cm high.

Recent Comments

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By the way... my ToM printed her bra
&
amp; the bra cross-tie BEATIFULLY! Even my 7-year-old son said, "daddy, I can see her boobies!" HILARIOUS!!! :) I could tell she was sexy by the base layer. I printed her with no raft, and the first layer was goreous... could see the muscle in her belly, and the top of her buttocks. Beautiful. A bath in acetone with a Q-tip really makes her shine! I printed her in "natural" ABS, and she looks great. She would probably look better if I had the balls to paint her
&
amp; ruin a perfect model! (I'm an artist, but not that great with paints).

Looked for the full file and found it. They want money for it. I've been doing CAD of one form or another for years, and I've never spent a dime on a single file... and never will.

You really think that would solve the issue with her hair and chin not turning out? Just wondering.

Printed her with no suppor, and she's beautiful! I spent a couple hours cleaning her up
&
amp; washing her down with acetone. My wife was jealous until I offered to wash her down in acetone as well. :-E I smoke... no acetone for THAT woman! LOL!

My version of Hanna (the file name) came out GREAT, except for the lower lenghts of her hair, her bangs, her chin, and the lower ends of her arms. I monitored this build closely, as it was only my 3rd or 4th print on my new ToM. She was printed with all Gen-4 equipment with stock Skeingforge set
tings... except that my HBP will not heat up unless I edit the Gcode to read 130-degrees. I also delete the "homing" section of the Gcode, and simply pre-heat my platform and nozzle to 230 tool and 130 platform (verified with the Gen-4 interface board) before I ever hit "PRINT" on Greplicator. (Su
re the temperatures on the extruder and the platform drop just a bit in between my clicking "print" and the actual print process... but I've learned to set the start temp for the nozzle about 5-degrees higher than what I actually want during the build... and to make sure and edit the nozzle temp to
230 and and the platform to 130 in the Gcode before I ever hit "print". (I have been experiencing some pretty bad warp in objects that span the width of the HBP, and wonder if it might be due to the fact that my HBP doesn't even heat at all unless I set it at 130 in the Gcode. But I'll post more a
bout that later.)

Liked By

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Caiman

License

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag. Print Thing Tag

Instructions

There's a file with a 1mm wall hollowed out version, and a file with a solid single mesh version.

Comments

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clintkc on Dec 31, 2011 said:

Printed her with no suppor, and she's beautiful! I spent a couple hours cleaning her up
&
amp; washing her down with acetone. My wife was jealous until I offered to wash her down in acetone as well. :-E I smoke... no acetone for THAT woman! LOL!

My version of Hanna (the file name) came out GREAT, except for the lower lenghts of her hair, her bangs, her chin, and the lower ends of her arms. I monitored this build closely, as it was only my 3rd or 4th print on my new ToM. She was printed with all Gen-4 equipment with stock Skeingforge set
tings... except that my HBP will not heat up unless I edit the Gcode to read 130-degrees. I also delete the "homing" section of the Gcode, and simply pre-heat my platform and nozzle to 230 tool and 130 platform (verified with the Gen-4 interface board) before I ever hit "PRINT" on Greplicator. (Su
re the temperatures on the extruder and the platform drop just a bit in between my clicking "print" and the actual print process... but I've learned to set the start temp for the nozzle about 5-degrees higher than what I actually want during the build... and to make sure and edit the nozzle temp to
230 and and the platform to 130 in the Gcode before I ever hit "print". (I have been experiencing some pretty bad warp in objects that span the width of the HBP, and wonder if it might be due to the fact that my HBP doesn't even heat at all unless I set it at 130 in the Gcode. But I'll post more a
bout that later.)

clintkc on Dec 31, 2011 said:

By the way... my ToM printed her bra
&
amp; the bra cross-tie BEATIFULLY! Even my 7-year-old son said, "daddy, I can see her boobies!" HILARIOUS!!! :) I could tell she was sexy by the base layer. I printed her with no raft, and the first layer was goreous... could see the muscle in her belly, and the top of her buttocks. Beautiful. A bath in acetone with a Q-tip really makes her shine! I printed her in "natural" ABS, and she looks great. She would probably look better if I had the balls to paint her
&
amp; ruin a perfect model! (I'm an artist, but not that great with paints).

Looked for the full file and found it. They want money for it. I've been doing CAD of one form or another for years, and I've never spent a dime on a single file... and never will.

rhoefelmeyer on Feb 28, 2011 said:

I didn't see this in a quick scan of the thread, but has any one thought of a frame first, then go back and put the figure features and details over the top? My apologies if I missed some one suggesting this already.

clintkc on Dec 31, 2011 said:

You really think that would solve the issue with her hair and chin not turning out? Just wondering.

Anonymous on Jan 1, 2011 said:

Could you tell me what you mean by "had to print it on a Ultra"? This is the quality I'm looking for, so I want to buy the set up that will allow for this.

Thanks

avantime on Jan 3, 2011 said:

Hi Beon,

Kaetemi said : "I'm actually interested in seeing how chaotic organic and small structures (especially like the hair) like this would work out and/or be solved on different sorts of printers." So thats the reason why we printed it. (and I have a happy daughter)

By the Ultra, I mean the Envision
tec Ultra Printer. We have one in our company. Normally we print only technical parts, so it's fun to try the file of Mr. kaetemi.

If you want parts printed like this, you can contact me.

avantime on Dec 28, 2010 said:

Hi,

my daughter likes to draw these figures, normally in 2D. Now we have seen your file, I had to print it on a Ultra.

Kaetemi on Dec 31, 2010 said:

That's some very fine detail quality, nice =)

Skimbal on Dec 20, 2010 said:

I added some braces for inverted printing and scaled it up 1.8 times.

I feel like the results I got were decent, considering the complexity of the object and that it wasn't truly designed for printing without support material. The extra size really helped with the resolution.

Skinforge didn't like something about the ears and we got a bit of a grid shift there,
But overall a good result for a complex model.

Kaetemi on Dec 20, 2010 said:

Which printer is that printed on, by the way?

Kaetemi on Dec 20, 2010 said:

That looks pretty good =)

Too bad for that shift, is that something I could fix in the model?

Do you have a closer picture of the back side, as well? :)

Skimbal on Dec 20, 2010 said:

Just for reference, the total printed height is 122mm.

TheRuttmeister on Dec 20, 2010 said:

The solid model (which gives Skein errors from about 50-55mm z height) prints in normal orientation with support turned on.

Print time is about an hour (very very low fill).

Had some issues with the top of the head going a bit saggy, but thats the super low fill for ya.

My makerbot cannot really get the resolution (currently) to do this model justice.

I might be able to fit a scaled up (to double the height) version
, if you want me to give that a try.

It would be very interesting to try printing this with a stepper extruder and wobble-free Z axis!

Kaetemi on Dec 20, 2010 said:

Nice. :)

Yeah, seems a bit rough at that scale. Feel free to try it at a larger scale, I'm always interested in some more output, as well as tips to make future models more printable without sacrificing too much detail.

If I'd upload a full body figure (in a month or so), what build area should I take into account?
Would it be more practical to have a figure in a sitting position?
As for the hair, I'll probably make it thicker, so it lies against the face where it's close enough, and perhaps longer so that the en
ds can rest on the body everywhere.

TheRuttmeister on Dec 19, 2010 said:

For reference, does not print inverted :P

(well, the first few layers really need support, but I havent turned that on :-P )

Skeinforge spits out a ton of error messages, no doubt due to the geometry issues mentioned by skimbal.

Be interesting to see how much difference a solid version of the model makes.

My first attempt at printing
it should be done in half an hour, I'll post a pic (although I'll be hitting pause before the base is finished, its not worth trying that without support!)

Makes me want to do some work on those old SLS ideas though...

Kaetemi on Dec 19, 2010 said:

I've uploaded a solid single-mesh version. :)

Skimbal on Dec 19, 2010 said:

Nice model, but after looking over the 3d, i don't think its makerbot/mendel/Reprap printable without being remolded from scratch.

You have multiple independent meshes that intersect each other. While the software of a professional 3d printing service can handle this, The personal printing level software cannot.

If you want this to be makerbot/mendel/Reprap printable i would recommend taking the following steps.

1) Make it
all one mesh. The Hair, Bra, Scalp, Eyes and Bra Straps are currently independent objects. Boolean them together in some way so all the only geometry in the model is the final outer surface. Delete everything interior.

2) Don't Make it hollow. I know why you did for shapeways, it lowers the mat
erial cost. But on our machines the material is so cheep that its not worth worrying about. The only thing it does is greatly extend the print time and raise the chance of print failure.

3) If you want to print it with no support material, flip the model 180 degrees. If it where printed standing
on its head, there wouldn't be a problem with support material.

I was going to try to print this... But the clean up would take way more hours then I am willing to spend.

Kaetemi on Dec 19, 2010 said:

Alright, thanks for the tips. I'll take care of those points.

spirail on Dec 17, 2010 said:

looks cool

what did you print it with?

Kaetemi on Dec 17, 2010 said:

The one in the picture was printed by Shapeways in their basic white material on an EOS SLS machine.

Schorhr on Dec 17, 2010 said:

Very nice :-) Maybee works better if printed laying on the back?

flintols on Dec 17, 2010 said:

This could be cut at the neck and have the head printed upside down with some sort of thin raft support unit the head is almost verticle.

Please post more parts, would love to attemp it.

Kaetemi on Dec 17, 2010 said:

Perhaps. I'm actually interested in seeing how chaotic organic and small structures (especially like the hair) like this would work out and/or be solved on different sorts of printers.

hintss on Dec 17, 2010 said:

probably has too many overhangs for makerbot, though

atomic on Dec 26, 2010 said:

yeah they sure do... hang over

Kaetemi on Dec 17, 2010 said:

If you know of any DIY printers that can handle shapes like this, I'd be interested in knowing =)

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