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Spring-loaded Replicator 2 Drive Block

by MakerBot, published

Spring-loaded Replicator 2 Drive Block by MakerBot Feb 22, 2013

Verified Files

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Description

Based on the excellent work of Thingiverse users whpthomas, emmett, and whosawhatsis, this design incorporates a spring-loaded arm to squeeze the filament between the drive gear and a bearing with a constant amount of pressure. We added improvements to the designs, such as a hole below the drive gear to guide the filament into the hot end.

MakerBot Replicator 2 owners will love the ease of this system for keeping filament running smoothly, and we salute the innovative MakerBot users who contributed to this design!

UPDATE! The hardware parts for this replacement are available for sale in our online store. Go to store.makerbot.com/drive-block-hardware-kit.html.

UPDATE! Rev2 files are now uploaded, and there are STEP files for anyone who would like to take a closer look at the design. There is also a version of the Base that can print without support material.

Recent Comments

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I have these on my two replicator2s at my school. They make all the difference in the world. I did have one issue that I just fixed so I thought I would share. One of my replicators stopped printing and would make stringy prints that were not working. After disassembling I discovered that the lever arm was rubbing against the place where the grub/set screw was on the notched wheel. Either over time the lever arm deformed or I did not have a good print in the first place. Fixed the problem by reprinting the whole mechanism and the replicator is going great now!

I just recently got a Replicator 2; this came with the printer.

will this work on the Replicator 1?

More from 3D Printer Extruders

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Instructions

You can find a video of these instructions here: youtu.be/ZdOS5NP5eaE

As well as the three printed parts, you will need the following:

The 2mm and 2.5mm hex wrenches that came with your MakerBot Replicator 2
1 M3 Hex Socket Shoulder Screw, 4mm diameter x 10mm length shoulder
1 Compression Spring, 0.360"OD, 0.276"ID, 0.630" Free Length, 32lbs/in spring rate
1 M3 x 6mm Flat Head Cap Screw
1 Ball Bearing, 4mm ID x 10mm OD x 4mm width

1. Print out SCHDrive.thing. The files are precisely oriented to work well with support material as generated in MakerWare. Use the following settings:

Layer height: 0.20 mm
Infill: 10%
Shells: 3

2. Remove the support structures from the drive block base and bearing arm.

3. Unload any filament and switch off the MakerBot Replicator 2.

4. Remove the motor wire harness connector from the port at the top of the extruder motor.

5. Use the 2.5 mm hex wrench to loosen the two bolts at the lower corners of the front extruder fan. Pull the bolts, fan guard, fan, spacers and heatsink about a centimeter out of the extruder as one piece. This will free the motor. Pull the motor assembly out of the extruder.

5. Set the motor assembly down on a work surface. Orient it so that the motor shaft points up and the motor connector is on the side farthest from you.

6. Use the 2 mm hex wrench to remove the two bolts holding the drive block to the motor.

7. Remove the drive block. You can put the drive block and bolts aside. You will not need any of these parts to complete this part replacement.

8. Add the new drive block base to the motor so that the flat side rests against the top of the motor, the large hole at the center fits over the drive gear, and the two bolt holes in the base line up with the bolt holes farthest from you on the motor.

9. Add the small flathead screw to the bolt hole on the right of the drive block base. Screw it in using the 2 mm hex wrench.

10. Set the bearing arm down on your work surface with the flattest side facing down. The bearing arm is roughly L-shaped, and on the short side of the L you will see a short post pointing upward. Add the radial bearing to this post.

11. Add the bearing cover to the bearing arm so that the flat side faces up, the more rounded end fits into the round depression at the corner of the bearing arm, and the less rounded end partially covers the bearing. Press the cover on until it is flush with the edges of the bearing arm.

12. Fit one end of the spring over the round bump on the drive block base. The bump protrudes horizontally from the lower right corner of the drive block base.

13. Orient the bearing arm so that the bearing is at the left and the bearing cover faces up. Then line up the corresponding bump on the bearing arm with the other end of the spring.

14. Pinch the front side of the drive block base and the long side of the bearing arm together to compress the spring. Compress the spring until the bolt hole in the bearing arm and the remaining bolt hole in the drive block base line up.

15. Push the shoulder bolt through both bolt holes at the corner of the bearing arm and into the bolt hole on the motor. Use the 2 mm hex wrench to tighten down the bolt. You might have to push down hard on the hex wrench in order to get the shoulder bolt to thread into the hole in the motor.

16. The new drive block is now fully assembled, and you can return the motor assembly to the extruder. Slide the motor assembly back into the extruder.

17. Making sure the fan bolts at the front of the extruder line up with the two lower bolt holes on the extruder motor, tighten the bolts into the motor using the 2.5 mm hex wrench.

Note: Make sure you are able to push the bearing arm down. If the bearing arm will not move, the fan bolts are probably too tight.

18. Return the motor wire harness connector to the port at the top of the motor.

That's it! Start printing and let us know how it works out!

What are Verified Files?

Verified Files are ready-to-print files for your MakerBot Replicator 2. They’ve been pre-sliced and tested on our machines. All you have to do is download the files to an SD card and start 3D printing!

Comments

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bpwagner on Mar 12, 2014 said:

I have these on my two replicator2s at my school. They make all the difference in the world. I did have one issue that I just fixed so I thought I would share. One of my replicators stopped printing and would make stringy prints that were not working. After disassembling I discovered that the lever arm was rubbing against the place where the grub/set screw was on the notched wheel. Either over time the lever arm deformed or I did not have a good print in the first place. Fixed the problem by reprinting the whole mechanism and the replicator is going great now!

Jarbaugh on Jan 20, 2014 said:

I just recently got a Replicator 2; this came with the printer.

mondotiki on Dec 18, 2013 said:

will this work on the Replicator 1?

morphling on Dec 6, 2013 said:

Since I have installed this upgrade the motor in the driver block is getting really hot. It is much much warmer than the heat sink. While printing I cant hold my finger on the back of the motor for more then 4 seconds where as the heat sink is just warm to touch.

Is this a problem?

MysteryAlabaster on Oct 25, 2013 said:

I'm having a problem where, when printing on the 2X, the spot for the spring to attach to on the mount keeps getting burned, and sagging in and upwards. This has happened on 6/6 prints

fosterine on Oct 23, 2013 said:

Will this work for the Replicator 2X? Or is it specific for the Replicator 2?

darkskynet on Aug 28, 2013 said:

Was going to order a kit from makerbot's website but then i noticed that they wanted $15 to ship something that weighs almost nothing to an address inside the lower 48... This could fit in a padded envelope and cost like $4 for shipping :-/

darkskynet on Aug 31, 2013 said:

I ended up ordering one anyway, I spoke too soon. I tried finding the parts from amazon and it was going to be almost double the price... Sorry makerbot keep up the good work :P I own up to my mistakes :)

misan on Aug 15, 2013 said:

I have found that soap push pumps are a good source of strong springs. Usually they can be had for as low as $1 soap included.

parachutefactory on Aug 4, 2013 said:

Don't order the hardware kit from Makerbot - I'm at 2 weeks and the order is still processing!

Anonymous on Sep 3, 2013 said:

I ordered mine on 6/28/13, it is now 9/3/13 and I still haven't gotten it! WOW!!!

ferdyp on Aug 1, 2013 said:

Seem to work a lot better than the original Replicator2 plunger. Print width seems much more consistent

monjays on Jul 27, 2013 said:

Really one of the best explanations and I did it in minutes!! You rock, Alex! Thanks!

RandomPretender on Jul 21, 2013 said:

Hey, I just got my Replicator 2 and am in the process of learning how to use it and calibrating it. I'd like to upgrade the extruder but seeing as I only have the Replicator 2, I can't print an ABS replacement. I don't see one at the Makerbot store, where else can I get an ABS version? I don't think I'd spring for an aluminum one at least not until I've sufficiently experimented with the stock extruder.

benheck on Jul 19, 2013 said:

I mirrored a copy so I could replace both my extruders on my dual head Replicator 1. Works great, gonna tell my Replicator-owning friends.

You should post a mirrored version since that's not easy to do in Makerware as it was in RepG (and Makerware won't print something flipped in RepG)

brendandawes on Jul 6, 2013 said:

Printed and installed it using parts ordered from Robosavvy and it works brilliantly.

GarrisonTECH on Jul 3, 2013 said:

Just replaced the injection molded pieces. So far it's working much better. I have 4 brand new rep2's and MBI did the right thing and sent me the replacement parts for free. Now just waiting for a new thermocouple, one of them crapped out. Jhorel, agreed, they should be shipping the rep 2's with the upgrade already installed.

jhorel on Jul 2, 2013 said:

just got the hardware bits from mcmaster ($40 overnite) and printed this out.

worked like a charm. My printer is finally printing reliably. was able to print things using the high resolution setting on makerware successfully where before it was a 80%+ failure rate. Now it's 100% success so far (3 copies of the printed parts).

ordered the injection molded one, but that will take a while. MBI should be shipping all replicator 2's with this mod.

Thanks all

chriswolfram on Jun 21, 2013 said:

I haven't gotten my kit yet but I hear that the printed parts melt and warp over time. Also someone mentioned that you could get a injection molded one and it took me a while but I finally found it...

http://store.makerbot.com/extr...

It is free for people who already one the rep2 but there is a 6 week wait.

rachaelmack on Sep 13, 2013 said:

This doesn't allow me to order. I put my serial number in and nothing happens :/

natandfelix on Jun 21, 2013 said:

Does anyone know where i can get the kit in the UK? Makerbot are trying to charge me $40 to send it!

will123195 on Jun 11, 2013 said:

Works great, but beware if you print this thing in PLA it will have a limited lifespan. Mine warped after a few weeks of heavy printing and I could no longer print. I should have printed more than one! Anyway, I just bought the injection molded version from the Makerbot store and I'm back in business!

jwheels1 on Jun 4, 2013 said:

By the way here is the part link to where Makerbot gets there springs

http://www.centuryspring.com/S...

Unfortunately they bought 30,000. Here are the part numbers for the other items
you get these from McMaster Carr

91294A126 Metric
Flat Head Socket Cap Screw, M3 Size, 6MM Length, .50MM Pitch, Packs of 100
90278A317 Metric
18-8 Stainless Steel Precision Socket Shoulder Scrw, Hex, 4MM Shoulder
Diameter, 10MM Shoulder L, M3 Thread
7804K1 Miniature
High-Precision Stainless Steel Ball Bearing - ABEC-5, Double Shielded, for 4 mm
Shaft Diameter, 10 mm ODD

gamerguy51 on Jun 14, 2013 said:

thanks! just bought 50. ;)

Dugbi on May 26, 2013 said:

Hi All. Im just going to add my 2 cents worth. I could not print at all with my Rep2 when I first got it. Bilby in Australia eventually printed me a WHPThomas version of this and I have had no Problems with filament since, Except for the clear filament that came with the unit from makerbot. It jams in the extruder for no reason and blocks up after about an hour. After some research and measuring I found 2 things. 1 The filament varied from 1.7mm to 1.9mm in different areas and through this didn't jam in the feeder is jammed in the heat pipe. 2 I found out through the supplier that the filament from Makerbot has issues with moisture. I cant remember the exact story but the explanation went along the lines of dont use the supplied filament. I havent used it and have had no failed prints due to filament. Granted I have had plenty of bad prints but most are now due to me being slack in the setup. In regards to Emmets prints i have done many and they have worked out perfect. I agree that if you want print his objects, you need to do a proper setup and read his instructions. In regards to Maker bot I think that they should be sending every Rep2 owner the updated feeder for free. You have made a good product but you are now subjecting it bad publicity simply because you are not supporting your users. Its obvious that the feeder is useless and needs to be replaced. On a final note I love my printer and couldnt imagine life with out it.

SArch on May 13, 2013 said:

Hello Community and MB. As with a lot of folks here, our Rep2 has been dismal right out of the box. This fix looks promising but we are in a situation where we cannot even print the shark, let alone this fix. If there is a resource out there that we can purchase these printed parts please let us know. We are in DC and will pay overnight shipping for a well made, usable kit that works for a Rep2 purchased only two months ago. Thanks.

Socialbit on May 10, 2013 said:

If you live in germany, you may wont pay the high shipping costs. We found some similar parts in a german online shop: http://3d-drucker-community.de...

suade907 on Apr 18, 2013 said:

Am I the only one that is having problems printing these parts. I have a replicator 2 and firmware 7.2 and the makerware software 2.02.09 and everytime I try and print the lever or the cover the area around the larger hole is not printing solid. It's like 2 walls but there is no layer of plastic on the bottom of the cover near the large hole and no layer of plastic on the top of the lever near the large hole. I've tried going back to my 7.0 firmware and that didn't help. Thanks in advance

suade907 on Apr 19, 2013 said:

Woops my software version is 2.0.2.9. I just tried printing with the medium quality which uses the makerware slicer and that one printed ok. I'm gonna try them all this way. I wonder why the skeinforge slicer is not working properly usually I don't have issues with it. I even tried repG and had the same problems.

rilapp on Apr 17, 2013 said:

I've only had my Replicator 2 for about 10 days. Lots of issues with inconsistent flow, rafts, and supports. Have leveled the modeling surface more times than a kid on a trip can say "are we there yet?". Will this upgrade address this?
Thanks!

Anonymous on Apr 19, 2013 said:

Woops my firmware is 2.0.2.9. I just tried printing with the medium quality which uses the makerware slicer and that one printed ok. I'm gonna try them all this way. I wonder why the skeinforge slicer is not working properly usually I don't have issues with it. I even tried repG and had the same problems.

nobody_home on Apr 2, 2013 said:

$2000 PLAYED OUT!!

nobody_home on Apr 2, 2013 said:

IT COULDN'T BE SOLD!

nobody_home on Apr 2, 2013 said:

IT COULDN'T BE SOLD!!

nobody_home on Apr 2, 2013 said:

IT COULDN'T BE SOLD!!!

nobody_home on Apr 2, 2013 said:

IT COULDN'T BE SOLD!!!!

nobody_home on Apr 2, 2013 said:

IT DOESN'T PRINT ANYTHING!!!

nobody_home on Apr 2, 2013 said:

IT SUCKS!!

nobody_home on Apr 2, 2013 said:

DON'T BUY REPLICATOR 2!!!

nobody_home on Apr 2, 2013 said:

DON'T BUY REPLICATOR 2

IT SUCKS!!

IT DOESN'T PRINT ANYTHING!!!

IT COULDN'T BE SOLD!!!!

nobody_home on Apr 2, 2013 said:

Well.... The only thing I have to say: Replicator 2 sucks!!!

It doesn't print anything!!! I think it couldn't be sold!!!

I leave an advice: DON'T BUY IT!!!!!!

MakerBobDesigns on Mar 23, 2013 said:

Anyone needing a left side block, or blocks for an original Replicator, or Replicator Dual should use my newly posted thing http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
You can tweak the settings to use parts that you can easily source locally.

MakerBobDesigns on Mar 23, 2013 said:

Anyone needing a left side block, or blocks for an original Replicator, or Replicator Dual should use my newly posted thing http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
You can tweak the settings to use parts that you can easily source locally.

MakerBobDesigns on Mar 23, 2013 said:

Anyone needing a left side block, or blocks for an original Replicator, or Replicator Dual should use my newly posted thing http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
You can tweak the settings to use parts that you can easily source locally.

vik on Mar 15, 2013 said:

When you say "M3 ... 4mm diameter" do you actually mean an M4? I is a leetle confuzed.

MikeP-NZ on Mar 18, 2013 said:

Nah Vik, They mean a shoulder bolt. The threaded part is M3 and the shoulder part is 4mm diameter and 10mm long. most engineering supplies stores would have this. but don't go looking for one at your local hardware store.

Thingimijig on Mar 15, 2013 said:

Does anybody know where to buy the spring in the uk, . $40 postage from the us seems excessive.

PETERL on May 15, 2013 said:

Yes please can someone help if they've managed to buy any of the parts in the uk, is anyone selling it as a kit?

ximfinity on Mar 14, 2013 said:

I don't see SCHDrive.thing anywhere inside the download. I'm hoping this solves the issues I'm having with a brand new Replicator 2 with inconsistant material.

whitemousegary on Mar 14, 2013 said:

Is this some kind of funny joke? Plastics axle for bearing? 3.6mm ABS cylinder will break easily, and PLA won't stand the burning temperature that the stepper motor generating; Unnecessary tolerance compensation suggested that the design is verified with a terribly calibrated 3D printer; Avoidable overhang in the screw socket;

OMG, are you really?

dudgeon on Mar 17, 2013 said:

Did you print it and give it a try before trashing?

tyleryoungblood on Mar 14, 2013 said:

FYI, this won't work on a Replicator 2x. Makerbot actually changed the design of the extruders on the 2x and implemented a bearing and spring approach similar to the design of this Thing. However, I still can't use my less expensive filament with the new 2x design - it still jambs. The cheap filament ranges from 1.7 to 1.8, so apparently 0.1mm of filament variation is too much to ask the new 2x design to handle. It's a bummer too, because the filament was about 25% less expensive than Makerbot filament. Otherwise, I've been pretty happy with my 2x purchase.

bottleworks on Mar 25, 2013 said:

You should be using better filament. There is plenty of cheaper stuff that doesn't have a larger diameter swing like your cheap stuff does.

tyleryoungblood on Mar 14, 2013 said:

How do you mirror a part in MakerWare so that you can print a replacement for the left extruder on a dual extrusion Replicator 2x?

JS_3D on Mar 11, 2013 said:

where is the SCHDrive.thing file mentioned in step 1 of the instructions?

lizard428 on Mar 6, 2013 said:

emmet must be receiving free PLA (:)). This is indeed a product defect. While emmet's designs are intriguing (cute, but require too much horsepower for practical and/or large horsepower / long term use), one cannot build his designs without the modification as there are too tight tolerances for even remotely practical application with the factory extruder design.

laird on Mar 6, 2013 said:

No, Emmet's designs are challenging, but they're not impossible. They just require a well calibrated printer. But I've printed pretty much everything he's designed, on a Replicator (original model). It does require careful calibration of speed, temperature and filament diameter, but it can be done.

Note that he provides source to all of his designs, in OpenSCAD, so you can tweak the designs to be printable on your printer and filament.

I have no idea what you mean by "too large horsepower" or "this is indeed a product defect" in relation to Emmet's designs being printable.

MichaelAtOz on Mar 6, 2013 said:

Harsh! -1

anewsome on Mar 6, 2013 said:

Does anyone have a handle on which of these mods work best. I'm currently printing using the wphthomas version of the extruder fix. I must say it works pretty well but I'm still having a hell of a time getting makerbot natural PLA to print reliably for any parts that take more than an hour or so. I've printed this mod by makerbot and I've ordered their hardware kit to complete it. I'm just wondering if anyone can comment on which fix is the best fix out of all of these. I'm just trying to get to reliable printing and say goodbye to these air prints once and for all. I'm so tired of making things 4 or 5 times just to get one good print.

Tunell on Mar 4, 2013 said:

McMaster.com Parts
Spring: 9657K288
Shoulder Screw: 90278A317
Ball Bearing: 7804K1
Cap Screw (100pack): 91294A126

samkass on Mar 24, 2013 said:

Why do the specs for the spring on McMaster differ from what is listed in the description in length, spring rate, etc.? Is this a "close enough" similar spring or the actual one from the kit? (The rest of the part specs look identical.)

samberpe on Mar 4, 2013 said:

I couldn't agree more!

samberpe on Mar 4, 2013 said:

I have sent more than a dozen emails to support & received all the standard advice but after many days of effort still get intermittent flow and associated "clicking". It *APPEARS* that this is the solution to my problem (someone please verify). But NOBODY at Makerbot has mentioned this solution! I'm sorry... but this is just outrageous! Is Makerbot relying on its user community to redesign its product AND keeping it a secret? Just outrageously irresponsible, unprofessional, and inexcusable. Needless to say... I'm a little beyond upset.

laird on Mar 6, 2013 said:

Well, they announced this design on their blog and featured it on Thingiverse, so it's not terribly secret. I can't say why they didn't suggest it to you - their reps (at least some of them) have been telling people about the community extruder designs for months. So they should certainly be telling people about this new design.

brucethehoon on Feb 28, 2013 said:

Given that this is out of stock (and priced to profit rather than to repair) can anyone point out the appropriate parts on a site like McMaster Carr? I have had a hard time locating the spring in particular.

elgullitch on Feb 27, 2013 said:

One other point/question for Makerbot. It appears that the settings in the original Makerbot slicer profiles were tweaked to compensate for the original plunger design. Have you worked out replacement profiles that work better with the new extruder design?

laird on Mar 6, 2013 said:

There's nothing about this design that would require a different profile - the diameter of the gear didn't change, just the mechanism for pressing filament against the gear.

elgullitch on Feb 27, 2013 said:

Week 1, I disassembled the extruder and was amazed that such a marginal design could actually work with any consistency. I quickly upgraded it using the whpthomas design and have been very satisfied. I think it is brave and kind of noble for Makerbot to embrace rather than suppress the improved design. Yes, they are acknowledging that the original design is inferior. Yes, they are charging a few bucks for the parts kit (BTW, I paid almost $8 just for the bearing I used) But in the grand scheme of things, this is how an innovative company who supports an innovative community should work.

We have several other CNC machines - the Makerbot is, by far, the least expensive of the lot. To my knowledge, none of these other equipment companies have ever offered free or low cost performance upgrades to their equipment -- (and lord knows, some of them could use it).

Only in our current age of class action suits would a company be
criticized for being so open with improvements to their product!

cwalker1960 on Mar 5, 2013 said:

I'm hardly in a position to say anything because my printer is of my own design and my extruder is a qu-bd.. But ,, if makerbots extruder behaved anything like the qu-bd extruder I bought , i would be inclined to agree with some of the other commenters. I could not print anything with the extruder the way it was sent to me.. I had to buy a drive gear. just that simple.. Qu-bd is also aware of their problem noted from their own forum although they still try to defend their design.. We didn't pay for an experiment ,, we paid for something that worked.. had I wanted to spend days trying to figure out and fix the problem I would have just designed it myself from scratch as I did the rest of the printer. I'm not screaming lawsuit here , I'm just saying do what is right ,, makerbot as well as qu'bd knows who bought their products ,, ,, at the very least send them the parts so they can fix it themselves..

zenod on Mar 2, 2013 said:

I would be tempted to agree with you if the marketing pitch had no been so focused on the product performance.

I am not after legal redress. Nevertheless this issue should be addressed..

There is no reason why MBI cannot acknowledge that the "early" versions of the printer were flawed and deal with that by issuing replacements, That happens all the time. The total cost involved is minimal and the benefits should be obvious.

Or are we all to have differing extruder designs that may or may not function correctly when used with the supplied software? That is another recipe for disaster.

bjornsyse on Feb 26, 2013 said:

Whoa, $40 shipping fee to sweden for the hardware kit, that's hefty.

pekkaa on Mar 25, 2013 said:

You can buy it from the UK: http://robosavvy.com/store/pro...

laird on Mar 6, 2013 said:

Yes, it's probably much cheaper to source the parts locally than to ship them from the US.

naveod on Feb 25, 2013 said:

Printed my parts. Now waiting on the mechanicals - then will install on my Rep2. I have two 'original' Replicators (both working fine) but may do the swap on them anyway.

cbabbage on Feb 24, 2013 said:

Would this work on a single head Replicator 1?

GyroVolve on Feb 23, 2013 said:

I'm gonna get this! so awesome, sometimes my filament has problems

modelboxca on Feb 23, 2013 said:

The .thing and .STL files are not actually the same version of the drive block. The .STL version has a cylinder shaped protrusion on the lever to catch the spring. The .thing version has more of a mound.

laird on Feb 23, 2013 said:

What was this designed in? Would you mind sharing the original files, to make it easier to mod? I'm interested in tweaking this design to fit the Replicator 1. I've been using Emmett's original design for ages, and it's been fantastic, but you've made some nice improvements.

MakerBot on Feb 23, 2013 said:

Yes, absolutely! We will have those for you soon, and you can mod at will.

Kyoxilbuzz on Feb 23, 2013 said:

I say: Free plastics for Whpthomas, Emmet and Whosawhatsis!
They just saved the Replicators :)

MichaelAtOz on Feb 23, 2013 said:

Oh-o it's the end of the world

popz on Feb 23, 2013 said:

This is strange. Makerbot is providing a "fix" for their extruder design in the form of a "you make it, buy the additional required parts, and test it yourself" format. Doesn't that imply the original design is flawed? Most, if not all of us realize the original extruder design is flawed. A few of us (me included) designed our own solution to the Makerbot extruder problem. And indeed while I did not publish mine, I find it quite questionable that Makerbot is publishing a "you fix it yourself" solution, based on previously published work by others, to a widely recognized manufacture defect. Only in New York. Sigh.

emmett on Feb 23, 2013 said:

Meh, it's hard to get a design perfect the first time around. I'm just happy to see that we the community improved the design enough that they've embraced it. The machine itself can print its own upgrade and now Makerbot's giving you one more option on sourcing the vitamins. This kind of back and forth is healthy, in my opinion.

rgremill on Feb 23, 2013 said:

Are these parts right in the kit? The spring doesn't look the same - http://store.makerbot.com/driv...

bmcage on Feb 22, 2013 said:

Can this work on the original replicator?

BenRockhold on Feb 22, 2013 said:

If you remove the plate on top of the extruder, it can. It's only designed for the Right extruder, but you can mirror the parts and use it for a left extruder on a dual machine too.

3dsteve on Feb 22, 2013 said:

Thank you MBI for posting this and addressing the extruder issue.

Since it is a .Thing file it looks like you want us to use MakerWare
to slice it. What resolution(s) will work? Can it be sliced at Medium
or does it need to be sliced at high resolution?

Will MBI be sourcing the springs and screws in their online store?

whosawhatsis on Feb 22, 2013 said:

No design files? This does not comply with the Share alike clause of the designs it was derived from. Adding the NC clause is also not compliant with that license.

MakerBot on Feb 22, 2013 said:

Sorry about that NC inclusion! Just a slip of the mouse, which has now been fixed.

barney on Feb 22, 2013 said:

interesting redesign

MichaelAtOz on Feb 22, 2013 said:

No STL?

MakerBot on Feb 22, 2013 said:

There's an STL now!

MakeALot on Feb 22, 2013 said:

You can save the .thing as an stl in Makerware. Or rename it .zip and open it as an archive.

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