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Customizable Cuffs & Collars

by fastkite, published

Customizable Cuffs & Collars by fastkite Feb 23, 2013

Description

Create your own pre-assembled custom hand cuffs with key. Can also be used for wrists, or as a collar. Take advantage of the of the MakeBot Customizer and design your own.

Recent Comments

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For printers with good tolerances, it could be made to print completely closed up, that way the hinges on the opening side would provide support for building each other and not require separate support. Tolerance on the Z axis for the hinger is way too much, if the printer can handle thee hinge pin itself then it can handle much tighter fit along the axis of the pin, which will also lessen strain on the pin itself when the hinge doesn't have as much room to bend sideways. The rings on the slide should have slopes, about 45 degrees, to make them support themselves, or otherwise attach them to the bottom so they're supported against the printing table. Given tolerances of 3D printers the pin-holes on the outer part of the hinge are also too tight, should be about same size as the hole in the middle piece. Otherwise quite nice piece of work, and on the configurability. I should see if I can make those changes myself.
i printed those, with supports made by slicer, print went fine, everthying looked neat, even the overhangs (i used supports from the slicer) only the hinge was fused. had to drill it and insert a pin.maybe double the gap?
I don't have a 3D printer, at least not yet. Have one on order. Waiting for it to show up. I changed the design a little since you wrote the note. Good idea to lay the pin down. Thanks!!!

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Instructions

Click on the button "Open in Customizer"

This thing comes with many options for customization. Take a moment and use the MakerBot Customizer to ensure yours fits and looks great.

1- Measure the limb, neck or whatever you are looking to cuff. The cuff size must be at least as wide as the widest section to prevent injury, discomfort etc.

  1. Once you have the size of the inside of the cuff, you need to specify the width for the cuffs.
  2. Decide how you want to accent your cuffs. Either wite some text, put holes, or install some stylish studs!
  3. The font height field lets you decide how tall the font should be, or if you selected a different accent it will also control how big those are.
  4. Write an inscription if appropriate and specific a font of your choice.
  5. Font Depth allows you to emboss or engrave the font on your cuffs. You can also select the Cut Through option to cut the font all the way through the cufs. Note: certain letters will have their insides fall out such as the letter 0.
  6. Attachement bracket allows you to tie the cuffs to each other, or to something else using string. There are several settings including how many many of these you would like.
  7. Specify some details about the locking pin. This is the pin you use to lock the cuffs closed.
  8. Lastly indicate which part(s) you want to print. This allows you to print just the key, or a broken pin if required without printing a new set of cuffs.

Assembly:

  1. Place the two cuff halves print pre-assembled.
  2. To lock the cuffs put the locking pin in the hinge holes at the other side. If you put ahead on your locking pin you may be able to remove it by wigging it out. If the head was removed you will need to use the key pin to press it out.

Unlock:

  1. Use the key pin (the pin that is narrower then the others to press the locking pin out of the hole
  2. Swing the cuffs open releasing the subject until next time
For printers with good tolerances, it could be made to print completely closed up, that way the hinges on the opening side would provide support for building each other and not require separate support. Tolerance on the Z axis for the hinger is way too much, if the printer can handle thee hinge pin itself then it can handle much tighter fit along the axis of the pin, which will also lessen strain on the pin itself when the hinge doesn't have as much room to bend sideways. The rings on the slide should have slopes, about 45 degrees, to make them support themselves, or otherwise attach them to the bottom so they're supported against the printing table. Given tolerances of 3D printers the pin-holes on the outer part of the hinge are also too tight, should be about same size as the hole in the middle piece. Otherwise quite nice piece of work, and on the configurability. I should see if I can make those changes myself.
i printed those, with supports made by slicer, print went fine, everthying looked neat, even the overhangs (i used supports from the slicer) only the hinge was fused. had to drill it and insert a pin.maybe double the gap?
Have you tried printing these? I love the idea, but I don't think those vertical pins will work well - small vertical rods tend to split apart. Perhaps it would be better to print the pins horizontally? Also, I suspect that the loops at the ends that stick out unsupported will be pretty sloppy. If you've printed them, and they worked, that would be cool!
I don't have a 3D printer, at least not yet. Have one on order. Waiting for it to show up. I changed the design a little since you wrote the note. Good idea to lay the pin down. Thanks!!!
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