Iris Box v2
Description
When I designed this iris box I started from scratch and used a different mechanism to open the box.
I have also uploaded the NX6 .prt files for anybody who wishes to use them.
Instructions
I have uploaded a file called IrisBoxShutterArray.stl with all 5 shutters in it, but if you are having troubles with warping you may want to print them off one at a time using IrisBoxShutter.stl.
The last part to print is the base. I have uploaded 3 options for the base, there is the standard one that is 45mm deep inside, a small ring with no bottom and a tall option that is about 85mm deep inside.
To build this iris box you will need some 3mm filament or an extra set of pegs (either scaled down or cut down to 3mm diameter) with the wider part cut off.
Once all of the parts are cleaned up, you first need to test the shutter parts for clearances. To do this take the 3mm filament and run it along the track in the shutter. It should freely move the entire length. If it doesn't use a knife and widen the outside curve of the track until it does. If you skip this step some of the shutters may stick and not close all the way.
The next clearance check is to put a pegs through the hole in the shutter with the wider portion of the peg on the same side as the track. The peg should freely rotate, if it sticks take the peg out and whittle it down until it rotates freely.
Now push the pegs into the holes in the bottom of the ring. If you are lucky then they will go in easily and stay in firmly, but if they are wiggling you will need to pull them out, put a dab of hot glue on the end and quickly shove it back in.
To prepare the base, put the 3mm filament (or extra pegs) in each of the 5 holes around the perimeter and trim them to about 2.2-2.8 mm from the surface.
The final clearance check is to take one of the pegs and insert into each of the tracks in the base and slide it along the length to make sure there are no blockages.
To attach the upper assembly to the the base you can reference the pictures to the side. You first line up the pegs with the larger part of the slots and push them in being careful that the shutters are rotated out of the way of the pegs in the base.
Now rotate the ring slightly counterclockwise so the pegs in the base line up with the slot in the underside of the shutter and push the shutter in. If it is too hard to push, trim the peg in the base down, if it is too loose you will need to pull the peg out and start again, otherwise it could flip open during operation.
The last thing to do is have fun flicking it open and closed.
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Wow, I was regular base just as you have it, upside down, and it was taking a while. The whole time I am thinking "I know it's going to mess up on the overhang and it is going to suck to have to reprint it right side up". But to my surprise, It didn't really sag at all. Now I just need to put it all together, I hope it works.
Hope people are still reading this.
Awesome design! But it looks like my CupCake isn't quite up to it. The 5 shutter array printed out fine. But when I try to print the peg array, I end up with a blobby mess. Short of upgrading my MK5 Plastruder with a stepper motor, does anyone have any suggestions on how to cut down on the ooozeba
ne?
add 2 small computer fans to the platform (one in front and one in back of the extruder. really helps on tall narrow pints
First, you need to print with a raft for the pegs (I don't know if you are or not). Also, try lowering the temperature of the HPB if you are using one, so the plastic can cool by the next layer.
Failing these, you could try to use M3x14 screws in place of the pegs (I haven't tried this, but they are the same size).
I didn't expectit to work so well! Granted, I took a dremel carving bit that just happens to be almost exactly 3mm and went over most of the holes, but it only took a few seconds. I then used a bit of hot glue to make sure the 3mm pegs were inserted into the base solidly, and a bit of TESTORS brand plastic model glue in the top ring holes to make sure the pegs were solid.
The action on this is smooth and reliable. Totally perfect. Printing out the base is a 2hr epic, but if you have your skeinforge params even close to right, bridging the large bottom is no problem.
Printed on a Thing-O-Matic.
I should probably also mention in the interest of fairness, the first time I went to print the base, my printer failed to bridge at all, instead filling the slots with plastic, not hitting the sides at all. I retuned all my Skeinforge params, but I think the one that made the real difference was the setting for perimeter overlap (I forget the name, I'm so sorry!) under STRETCH.
I'm in the process of making one of these (the ring is printing right now, everything else is done). I printed the base right side up and it seemed to have more trouble with the overhang on the bottom (though not too bad) than it did in the slots. It's turning out beautiful in PLA. The pins are needing a bit of cleanup to get them to fit though.
How do you print the base? It looks like you print it with the open side down? How does that work with overhang, is it bridging?
Very nice! Go to my Iris Box and say you made one. Then you can link this as a derivative.
License
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How are some of you printing the base? I've tried both with and without a raft, no success.