Mecanum Wheel Rover 2

by Madox, published

Mecanum Wheel Rover 2 by Madox Jan 23, 2011

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This is a revision of the Mecanum Wheel Base ( thingiverse.com/thing:5206 )

Slight modifications to the 3D models to make it easier to print as well as use more common parts.

Added servo frame with 1.6mm mounting holes spaced 10mm apart (for M2 screws).

Also added battery holder/fame to house 2x2 and 2x3 AA batteries.
Infocast/Chumby frame added and suits Insignia Infocast/Chumby One and Chumby Hackerboard Main PCBs.

Videos :

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I want to know what the overall size of this rover is, as I don't want it to be over 20cm x 20cm as I may use the frame and wheels for a Sumo-Bot.


I'll post up a link to my blog when I get the rest of the parts from china. :) I have the original Chumby, which I guess I could use, but I might end up going with netduino.

This is one of the best designs I've had the pleasure of printing. It is so awesome to be able to print so many of the components at one time! :-D :-D :-D

I used Madox's settings (fine, 0.25mm layer thickness). Yes, I'm using Rick's black ABS filament. I have to say that it works well, although the finish isn't as nice as with PP3DP's filament.

I've printed the hubs with dark gray, and the wheels with black. Although the end of the wheel looks best when printed fat side down, I honestly now recommend printing fat side up. It is so easy to break the wheels off of the raft this way. I spent a very, very long time trying to separate the
wheels that were printed fat side down, and ruined several parts. I also ended up tossing a few others because I couldn't get them off.

I'm going to print the battery trays in MakerGear green ABS tomorrow... stay tuned.

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Thingiverse doesn't escape some characters and truncates instructions, so please visit madox.net/blog/2011/01/24/mecanum-wheel-rover-2/ for full instructions.

Parts were printed on the Up! using 0.25mm layer thickness and solid.
Rollers and hub were printed using 'fine'.
All others printed using 'normal'
Care needs to be made to provide supports for the hub during printing, else you might get sag like in : madox.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/DSC03729.jpg
Print the rollers with the hex side up so you don't get need support/sag.
Orientate the frames as you see fit on your printer. There are some holes which are best printed in the Z on FDM printers.


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hccman on Feb 23, 2012 said:


I want to know what the overall size of this rover is, as I don't want it to be over 20cm x 20cm as I may use the frame and wheels for a Sumo-Bot.


dmatsumoto on Jan 24, 2011 said:

Do you know of a good way to merge STLs? For example, I'd love to see a wheel file that has 14 wheels staggered down 2 columns. I *think* they would all fit? I'd like to try this since my printer seems to print best vertically (meaning down the Y axis) in the middle. When I print lots of parts at a time and span the whole platform, I get warping on the corners. I'm still waiting for that magical yellow tape to arrive, and in the meantime I've just got the blue tape.

Really nice job! I've only done the wheels so far, but expect the rest to be nothing short of awesome. Have you considered using obijuan's parametric battery packs (http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... in your design?

Madox on Jan 24, 2011 said:


Deliberately made it a set of 7 to avoid the warping to keep the side small. You can print 4 of these at a time trying to keep them towards the centre of the heated platform.

Nope, $1.50 battery holders are cheaper and less hassle, can be easily swapped out and no need to worry about sourcing th
e terminals. You can always use it and screw it to the frame! :)

charlespax on Jan 23, 2011 said:

This is totally awesome! Watching the videos really shows how capable your machine is. Nice work.