Rostock Mini Fan Duct

by summetj, published

Rostock Mini Fan Duct by summetj Mar 4, 2013

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A fan duct that allows you to mount a 40mm fan above the extruder mount on the rostock-mini platform. Air is blown down over the top of the extruder to keep the heat down at the bottom where it belongs!
I suggest you try setting your cooling to 25% for extruder cooling (at 100% my extruder couldn't maintain 185 C!). It can cool a print job if you run it at 100%. See a video of me printing my C9 bulb cooling required test part here:


Print the STL. If you print the one with the wire slot cut out of it, you can open the duct up and slide it over your bowden tube and wires. If you printed the solid one without the wire slot, you will have to disconnect your bowden tube and wires and slip the duct over them before reconnecting them.

Use four M3 screws (I used 16mm length) to mount it to the platform (from the bottom) via the four extra holes. Use four M2.5 screws (I used 16mm length) to mount a 40mm fan to the top.

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any thoughts on an integrated z-probe? very nice design, but it swallows all the mount points. havent tried tinkercad yet to make it work, still trying to level mine. the ptfe and pla keep wedging into the extruder and its a real mess to take apart. i am thinking its extruder cal and hot end temp on that issue. but i am still looking for a good z probe to mod my rostock mini pro. round rods limit my uptions for bed spool and accessory holders etc.

thoughts on any of the above?

What extruder are you using since the "official" mini one was never documented.

summetj - in reply to

I'm using a MakerGear "V3 GrooveMount". Brian's printed hot-end mount fit the top perfectly, so It's probably very similar to what he is using, or at least uses the same top circle size. Instead of laser cutting a piece of plywood to hold it, I bought a "wooden mounting piece" for "Wades" extruder, traced around it with a pencil, and cut the extra pieces of with a bandsaw. I also had to drill out two holes to match the platform.

Hope that fan doesn't blow too much air onto the build surface!! The original Makerbot Replicator suffered a problem which the extruder fans would blow air onto the print, causing major warping issues, until a piece of Kapton tape is placed under the fans to prevent air from blowing directly onto the prints. Seriously, when I first got the replicator, 85% of all prints failed because of warping, by eliminating the air flow issue. Now I have only about a 5% failure rate due to warping.

Funny, over at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:51288http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

                    proprentnerl and I were discussing if a fan duct such as this would allow ENOUGH air to get down to the part (to cool plastic on one layer before the next layer comes out...)  If you are using Slic3r you can have it dynamically adjust the fan speed based upon the layer size (or disable it entirely for the first N layers...etc).   My main goal is to cool the top of my MakerGear extruder to prevent extruder jams, but I would like the ability to cool the plastic of the part by turning up my fan speed to allow me to print thin/small parts without them getting all floppy (such as my C9 bulb...which is my "go to" test for part cooling ability....http://http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:42072www.thingiverse.com/thing:4207...

I haven't had enough time to fully test this fan duct over multiple prints yet, but I'll report back when I know enough to say It's good, or if I decide to remove it.

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so is the air enough to cool the print?
My current problem with a side mounted fan is that you can only cool one side of the print.

Yes, it cools my test print running at 100%, but doesn't have a lot of extra capacity (at the very top of the bulb where it gets super small the plastic was looking visibly gooey, but it held together)

You can see it in action here: