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Makerbot Replicator Milling Head

by mitchellcook5, published

Makerbot Replicator Milling Head by mitchellcook5 Nov 30, 2014
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Summary

Makerbot Replicator Milling Head for PCB engraving or just general milling in wood plastic, or acrylic. Pretty much anything soft enough that the steppers can handle without missing steps. Screws directly to the existing print head carriage with the M3 Screws, they should be able to be be threaded into the plastic.

Should thread up to any Dremel with the removable plastic cover on the collar.

Instructions

Print with PLA because there can be absolutely ZERO warpage on these parts for it to work properly!

50% infill, 2 shells, at 0.3mm layer height ALL Parts.

Use #4 x 1/2" screws to mount the side walls to the bottom mount

The top support ring should not need any modification other than if you want to glue the shafts into the side walls but it shouldn't be necessary if your printer is calibrated well enough it should be a light press fit.

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If you adapted the mount to hold the vacuum turbine tool http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:496290 you could solve the chip problem quite easily.

Vacuum Turbine Tool 2.0 adjustable with ER11 Shank
by harmane

Hello , I wanted to know which program generates the kss file.

I usually use the kisslicer and then charge the kss file in the pronterface . But I find no program to replace the kisslicer to generate a kss file but function as 3D milling machine.

Greetings and Thanks

To be honest with you I have no idea how to make it work, but if someone would be able to come up with a firmware that will recognize negative z offsets and software where you could teach tool length and "WPC" (work piece coordinate, the center of your work piece) that would be great, but as of now it is just proof of concept, i mean you can just jog the head around with Rep G and mill some wood or acrylic, just keep in mind it produces chips and they can get into your steppers, i recommend a vacuum at the head at all times when cutting.

I am printing one of these as we speak. How do you get this bad boy to run once you have it all setup? I was planning on using the same instructions as the laser but I cannot figure out how to get the z-axis to go up and down instead of turning the laser on and off. Can you provide instructions on how to setup the printer and maybe some safety precautions so I know exactly how to make this bad boy work? Thank you so much for this thing! I will be uploading the results with a made after I am done here :)

To be honest with you I have no idea how to make it work, but if someone would be able to come up with a firmware that will recognize negative z offsets and software where you could teach tool length and "WPC" (work piece coordinate, the center of your work piece) that would be great, but as of now it is just proof of concept, i mean you can just jog the head around with Rep G and mill some wood or acrylic, just keep in mind it produces chips and they can get into your steppers, i recommend a vacuum at the head at all times when cutting.

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